Teen Model Railroader Place

[WCfan]

Nice work Tyler!

If work counts as taking pictures....then I did a lot...

[Railfan Alex]

Great shot Jordan!

I made a new page, so go post those photos!

[Anonymous]

I just got my new Proto 2000 GP9 in the mail (the seller thought it was a GP7, but the box says GP9) and it looks great! I don't know how it runs, because the motor isn't responding right now... The headlights work, but the motor isn't working. I sent him a message asking about that. I may have to open the unit up and see if there's a loose wire in there.

Anyway, here's the photos:

As it came:

I added detail parts too:

Winterization hatch...

All-weather windows:

Sunshades:

The unit may receive weathering at some point, and eventually it will probably be repainted into WRS colors as locomotive 1700. I still have to figure out what's up with the motor...

[Packer]

It is a GP7, I just used the box from a GP9. I originally bought the PRR GP7 for the sound chassis, and since the QSI manual doesn't fit in the non-sound GP9's boxes, I kept the GP7s box, and shipped it in the GP9s box.

Also, PRR roster says it's a GP7:

http://broadway.pennsyrr.com/Rail/Prr/Rosters/diesel.html#8000

[Railfan Alex]

A handsome looking unit!

Do you plan on chopping the nose?

[Iain42]

I continued work on my scratchbuilt Beaufort and Morehead crane.  I also did some work on my transfer ferry, John W. Garrett as owned by Norfolk Southern from the 1890s to 1910

[Anonymous]

I probably won't chop the nose, as I don't really know how, plus I think the frame would get in the way, and I don't want to have to cut that too.

Unfortunetely, the decoder just blew, (puff of smoke and now it won't respond - although the lights are still on, as they were on when it blew.) so I have some work to do on the unit still...

[Railfan Alex]

Hmmm....

Too bad. I still need to chop-nose my Geeps, and super detail them.

Should be fun!

[Anonymous]

I'm going to fix the problem on DC before putting in a new decoder... I don't want to blow another one...

What geeps do you have?

[Railfan Alex]

I have 1 PK2, 2 Walthers Trainline, that need to get re-chopped the right way, and the Atlas/Kato that I just got.

If only I had a CAMERA I would show YOU!


EDIT! It would help if you knew what they were!

PK2 and Trainline stuff is GP9.

Atlas/Kato is a GP7, but a superdetailed CP rebuild, into a GP9u.

That is what I want to do with the three others, eventually.

[Anonymous]

Yeah, you need to get a camera... You could take video of them...

What paint schemes are these in? I have a Trainline GP9 and the P2K GP7 noted above.

[WCfan]

Do you get MR Mag Tyler? If you do, or even if you don't, find the artical where they kitbash a SD9 into a SD10. This artical will tell you how to chop a Proto. That will also be the artical I'll base my Missabe SDM off of.

Or if you don't want to chop her, you should think of an older WRS paint scheme and apply it on her. Maybe add some heritage to your fleet.

[Packers#1]

Since the Pennsy came close to where your layout is set (I think, IDK how far the Pennsy went north), maybe you could patch her w/ some WRS red over the letters etc., and then add white lettering. Would definitly add some heritage, lol.

[Anonymous]

Yup, I have that issue. I have every issue of 1993, 94, 95, 96, 97, and 2006, 07, and 2008 so far. My subscription goes till August 2009 when I'll renew it. I might chop it if I can find the right tools. I don't think I actually have a razor saw, which is kind of a useful tool for cutting things...

I don't know if I want to paint it in an older scheme yet, as it would be nice to have more than one unit per paint scheme... Right now the locomotives in the WRS are painted for one of each: WRS, Chessie System, PRR, and UP.

Hmmm... I just realized that half of my WRS locomotives are out of service due to electrical issues... I should hurry up and get 1402 looked at, repaired, and back in service...

Sawyer, the closest the PRR comes to my locale is somewhere in Pennsylvania or New York. It's actually a long way off. 

[Railfan Alex]

The article says to go out and get an $8.00 Cannon cab, but club members have gotten results that are even better, and less noticeable with a $0.05 piece of Styrene. Just cut down the short hood, then fill the gap. Then all you need to do is drill a hole for the window, and file it down to the right size. You can look at prototype pictures, or take measurements from another loco that already has a low short hood.

That's my opinion.

[WCfan]

Well, you could do ti that way. But if you get the Cannon and Co Cab, you'll get the seal around the window, aka the black ridge that goes around the window. It all depends on how much detail you want.

[Railfan Alex]

I know, I would just do the border with a thin strip of styrene if I wanted.

Just trying to save us a few bucks.

[WCfan]

Speaking of Cannon & Co Part and Stryene, I need to work on my SDL......you guys make me work on it tommrow.

[Railfan Alex]

Yey!

He finally gave in!

[Guilford Guy]

You might want to keep the high hood for variety Tyler... all your units are low nose, and your GP9m had a brutal nose job... >_<

 

[Anonymous]

The Trainline units come with a low nose though... I think I will keep it high nose, because I don't feel like chopping my locos up right now... Especially because if I would chop stuff, I'd probably start with an old Tyco or something rather than a Proto 2000...

[Iain42]

Lee Weldon, who shows up on this board every now and then, has done several N scale Western Maryland chop nose Geeps.  I know y'all do HO, but he still may have some tips.

 

In other news, I've started building an electric bass for a friend. 

[Railfan Alex]

The Trainline units come with a low nose though... I think I will keep it high nose, because I don't feel like chopping my locos up right now... Especially because if I would chop stuff, I'd probably start with an old Tyco or something rather than a Proto 2000...

When I said I was going to "rechop" them, I meant that I wanted to alter them so that the nose is flat, not slanted. The Walthers engine is slanted. The Walthers engines are my "cheapies" so I'll fool around with those before tackling the Proto 2000.

[EJE818]

Well, my HO EJ&E SD38-2 663 arrived yesterday. It looks awesome, and runs awesome as well!

[WCfan]

Got any pictures Robby?

The slanted nose does bother me on the trainline geeps. Although on some RRs it was proto-typical.

Humm, a Proto Chessie SD7 with DCC and Sound for 249.98....temps me, but I don't need DCC and sound.

[Packers#1]

Humm, a Proto Chessie SD7 with DCC and Sound for 249.98....temps me, but I don't need DCC and sound.

The question is not whether you need DCC and sound, it's whether you WANT DCC and Sound

[WCfan]

I will want DCC and Sound on my new Layout in the bigger room, but right now, I can't afford it! (BTW I would use that Chessie SD7 to make the DMIR SDM.)

[Railfan Alex]

Pictures Robby! Pictures!

[Animal]

i picked up a proto 2000 E6A+B unit in ATSF, with sound and DCC today

[Railfan Alex]

Very neat.

Hey Robby, did you delete your post with 663 pictures?
Cause I click on the link and it can't find the post...