Being a knowledgable N crowd, thought I would post this question here. Perhaps one of you can answer this:
OK, I have a little N-scale 4-4-0 steam loco (Bachmann) that has beenstored for years with very little run time. Ran fine years ago. Now, on the track, it spins inreverse (going virtually nowhere) and barely makes much progress inforward. Piled weight on top it just to see and still makes littledifference. It's not the test track, as other locos have no trouble.Does this sound like a traction tire issue or??? Thanks for any helpwith this. -Rob
Cederstrand wrote: Being an old obsolete rapido coupler person, I do have a question on this topic: Which type/brand of coupler will allow for the longest train without accidental uncouplings? I have aquired a few cars with the little realistic couplers (have no idea which versions) and they certainly do look much much nicer than the big old rapidos. I figure when the time comes I'll set up a few cars with both types (one on each end) so I can enjoy running the whole collection. Yes, it would be best to convert the entire lot, but then there is that money factor thing and not getting in too much trouble with the Mrs.. Perhaps down the road sometime. Rob
Being an old obsolete rapido coupler person, I do have a question on this topic:
Which type/brand of coupler will allow for the longest train without accidental uncouplings?
I have aquired a few cars with the little realistic couplers (have no idea which versions) and they certainly do look much much nicer than the big old rapidos. I figure when the time comes I'll set up a few cars with both types (one on each end) so I can enjoy running the whole collection. Yes, it would be best to convert the entire lot, but then there is that money factor thing and not getting in too much trouble with the Mrs.. Perhaps down the road sometime.
Rob
The absolute best couplers for N scale are, hands down, MicroTrains.
My through freights are over forty cars in length and my neighbors runs one unit coal train with forty-four cars and runs it up a 2% grade.
Accumates look ok and do couple with MicroTrains couplers, but they don't work as well when running switching operations.
In N scale you usually replace the trucks, not many body mounted couplers on ready to run. MircoTrains sells theirs in bulk packages with enough trucks for ten cars. And they makes them in many styles, to meet whatever era you're modelling.
That's just my opinion, but it has merit.
One thing I'd like to see changed with N scale.
That is the coupler situation. There seems to be three. Knuckle, Rapido and Kato. Although Kato is compatible with knuckle, the Kato couplers that I have seen don't open up so they dont really couple right. Once coupled, they are ok. However they should be standard kadee or microtrains, knuckle style couplers. Bachman and a few others are the only ones still providing with Rapido. If Bachman would change, Rapido would go the way of the dodo bird. Which would be good in my opinion.
NS2591 wrote: jwils1 wrote: I'm also tempted to try one of the Kato AC4400 or SD70MAC with the new MRC sound decoders as described in the July MR Product reviews. Those will also fit the Dash 9s, the older SD40-2s, and anything else that a Digitrax DN163K1B will fit.
jwils1 wrote: I'm also tempted to try one of the Kato AC4400 or SD70MAC with the new MRC sound decoders as described in the July MR Product reviews.
I'm also tempted to try one of the Kato AC4400 or SD70MAC with the new MRC sound decoders as described in the July MR Product reviews.
Those will also fit the Dash 9s, the older SD40-2s, and anything else that a Digitrax DN163K1B will fit.
Is there room for the speaker in those units?
Jerry
Rio Grande vs. Santa Fe.....the battle is over but the glory remains!
jwils1 wrote:I'm also tempted to try one of the Kato AC4400 or SD70MAC with the new MRC sound decoders as described in the July MR Product reviews.
Lets give The "N" Crowd a little bump up to where it can be found.
Blue Flamer.
pcarrell wrote: jwils1 wrote: Has anyone tried putting sound in an N scale boxcar? With the somewhat limited sound availability in N scale it might be a could substitute while we wait for N sound technology to evolve.I have some in HO and they work well for my non-sound DCC locos.It's been done. It seems a little strange with the sound coming from the boxcar instead of the loco, but if it' right behind the loco it's not too bad. Another thing thats been done is cheater cars and tenders. You basically get an appropriate sized diesel mechanism and a boxcar or tender body and then combine them to make a powered boxcar or tender for some extra oomph. If it bugs you, the sideframes of the trucks can be swapped out to complete the look.
jwils1 wrote: Has anyone tried putting sound in an N scale boxcar? With the somewhat limited sound availability in N scale it might be a could substitute while we wait for N sound technology to evolve.I have some in HO and they work well for my non-sound DCC locos.
Has anyone tried putting sound in an N scale boxcar? With the somewhat limited sound availability in N scale it might be a could substitute while we wait for N sound technology to evolve.
I have some in HO and they work well for my non-sound DCC locos.
It's been done. It seems a little strange with the sound coming from the boxcar instead of the loco, but if it' right behind the loco it's not too bad.
Another thing thats been done is cheater cars and tenders. You basically get an appropriate sized diesel mechanism and a boxcar or tender body and then combine them to make a powered boxcar or tender for some extra oomph. If it bugs you, the sideframes of the trucks can be swapped out to complete the look.
In HO I always run the sound box car immediately behind the diesel. With some small holes drilled in the end of the box car nearest the engine it projects the sound toward the loco. Unless it's right in front of you it's hard to tell that the sound is not coming from the loco. For unaware visitors they can't even tell that it's not coming from the loco.
I'm not too skilled at building this sort of thing and would like to find someone who I could buy one from in N scale. I'm also tempted to try one of the Kato AC4400 or SD70MAC with the new MRC sound decoders as described in the July MR Product reviews.
sorry if posting like this is not allowed
Cederstrand wrote:Rule #2 of Model Railroading: New Products are introduced every month. Chances are, somebody will produce a model in Your Roadame. Some models are introduced that Changes Everything. These changes can make most previous models Obsolete or Second Rate.
What difference does it make? It is your railroad - model what you wish!
new products are introduced every month
produce a model in my roadname
From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet
[Rule #2 of Model Railroading: New Products are introduced every month. Chances are, somebody will produce a model in Your Roadame. Some models are introduced that Changes Everything. These changes can make most previous models Obsolete or Second Rate.]
I must admit, there are a few newer N engines out there I would like to add one day. In the past two years I have sold off quite a number of older models just to try out a few of the newer ones. Have been shifting towards quality over quantity, although some older engines you would still have to pry from my cold dead hands.LOL Also have picked up some junkers recently for kit-bashing into unique little logging-type steamers.
Philip, I figure that Rule #1 applies to most folks here. Guess I have been trying to change my mindset to enjoy what I already have over obtaining more. Besides, if my wife learned how much $$$$ I really spend on this hobby, she might lock me in the barn or something. I buy her some HO from time to time to keep her happy (and involved in the hobby). As an artist, I must "finish" paintings, but I do understand and agree completely how anything could be improved or altered over the long term. Having not even begun my layout yet, it sometimes seems monumental the amount of work ahead when I finally do. For now displaying some of the collection at least allows me to enjoy dreaming of the day when they are winding through the model mountains I envision. Rob
Rule #2 of Model Railroading: New Products are introduced every month. Chances are, somebody will produce a model in Your Roadame. Some models are introduced that Changes Everything. These changes can make most previous models Obsolete or Second Rate.
The Holy Grail of Model Railroading is a new model that provides New Levels of Improved Performance, New more prototypical details, or adds another factor to the enjoyment of the modeler.
The combination of Rule #1 & Rule #2 keeps hobby shops, manufacturers, magazines & websites in operation. I see too many posts proclaiming Doom & Gloom & the end of the Hobby. Frankly, I doubt if that will ever take place. There will always be folks new to the hobby. The only goofs are from those that never tried to do something. A layout can always be redone. Detailing & painting get better with practice.
Rule #1 in model railroading: The layout is NEVER done!
There's always something to add. More trains, more buildings, more people, more scenery, and then there's always replacing older (less well built) structures with better, newer ones. And there's always that one loco you always wanted that is due to be released six months from anytime.......
Reading posts about Hyun's enthusiasm for model RR, (which I share) I am curious: Is anyone here ever satisfied with their collections and/or layouts? Are you able to sit back with contentment or is there ALWAYS something you still want to add or do?
Still as excited to watch a loco running down the tracks as when I was a child outside a Hobby Shop window display. Have wonderful memories doing weeks worth of work around the neighborhood, saving up to buy one of those dream engines in the display case. These days I just need funds to finish the train room and build a layout of my own so I can run what I have.
Forever a train nut at heart. :^) -Rob
JMB wrote:N-Scale Locomotive Suggestions Needed!Layout under construction. First DCC set-up - Digitrax Zephyr in the unopened box. I have only DC locos from many years ago & would like to pick up a 'test' locomotive Will be modelling the transition era between steam & diesel.Appreciate any suggestions as to a good (also inexpensive/ economical) choice for that first DCC locomotive.Love this thread!...John
John,
You can use one of your DC locos to test the track work. It will run on address "00". The sizzling noise is normal when DC locos are standing still, it goes away when they speed up. It's just the motor reacting to the out of phaze signals in the track.
For a good first DCC loco, go online to Caboose Hobbies www.caboosehobbies.com and see what they have available from Atlas with a decoder installed. They have good pricing for decoder equiped Atlas products and they look and run great. I just got an SD 24 from them for $30 under the MSRP, and shipping wasn't exorbitant.
Check Atlas' website www.atlasrr.com to see what they offer in your era and then go to the other site and see if they have it in stock.
Hyun wrote:Again, thank you!
No problem!
You guys have been great, answering all my questions.
I try, but the rest of these guys are the real experts.
There's more coming...
Of that, I have no doubt! Bring it on! We eat this stuff up!
Hyun wrote: Philip, The Bachmann wire has a plastic connector built into the end that connects to the rerailer. Is it just a matter of cutting that off and connecting individual wires to the Life-Like rerailer that has two screw-down connectors? I'll of course check the power packs and make sure the output is similar, and use a multimeter as well. Speaking of which, when I get a MRC Railpower or some such power pack, will it come with the proper connector to attach to the Bachmann EZ track rerailer?
Philip,
The Bachmann wire has a plastic connector built into the end that connects to the rerailer. Is it just a matter of cutting that off and connecting individual wires to the Life-Like rerailer that has two screw-down connectors? I'll of course check the power packs and make sure the output is similar, and use a multimeter as well.
Speaking of which, when I get a MRC Railpower or some such power pack, will it come with the proper connector to attach to the Bachmann EZ track rerailer?
Yup! Snip them wires and hook her up! It'll go just fine. I'd leave a little wire on the Bmann plastic connector piece and throw on some connectors like this on the wire ends, and do the same with a piece of wire for the LL piece too, and then it'll all be quickly interchangable. You can mix and match to your hearts content! Just make sure you put all male or all female ends on the track side, and vice-versa on the power pack side and you're good to go!
Thank you again!
Hyun wrote: mls1621 wrote: Hyun, Your starter set probably came with manual turnouts. The one shown in the picture is a remotely switched, powered turnout. The switch shown would mount to your table and through the wires move the switch points.It would require a feed from your power supply for the solenoid mounted along the side of the turnout. The switch motor looks very much like that used on Atlas turnouts.Mike,Thanks for the quick reply--appreciate it.So, just to clarify, the electrical feed for this turnout would only power the switch points, right? In other words, it wouldn't be helpful for isolating the siding and creating a block and controlling it as a single on/off SPST switch, right?
mls1621 wrote: Hyun, Your starter set probably came with manual turnouts. The one shown in the picture is a remotely switched, powered turnout. The switch shown would mount to your table and through the wires move the switch points.It would require a feed from your power supply for the solenoid mounted along the side of the turnout. The switch motor looks very much like that used on Atlas turnouts.
Hyun,
Your starter set probably came with manual turnouts. The one shown in the picture is a remotely switched, powered turnout.
The switch shown would mount to your table and through the wires move the switch points.
It would require a feed from your power supply for the solenoid mounted along the side of the turnout. The switch motor looks very much like that used on Atlas turnouts.
Mike,
Thanks for the quick reply--appreciate it.
So, just to clarify, the electrical feed for this turnout would only power the switch points, right? In other words, it wouldn't be helpful for isolating the siding and creating a block and controlling it as a single on/off SPST switch, right?
You're correct, you'd have to isolate the siding with insulated rail joiners and use a SPST switch to control track power
mls1621 wrote:Hyun, Your starter set probably came with manual turnouts. The one shown in the picture is a remotely switched, powered turnout. The switch shown would mount to your table and through the wires move the switch points.It would require a feed from your power supply for the solenoid mounted along the side of the turnout. The switch motor looks very much like that used on Atlas turnouts.
pcarrell wrote:Hyun,It looks like a decent starter set. Glad you're having fun with it. You can use the Bmann controller with the LL stuff if you like it better. Just hook up the wires and go.
It looks like a decent starter set. Glad you're having fun with it. You can use the Bmann controller with the LL stuff if you like it better. Just hook up the wires and go.
And on a different subject, everyone, please take a look at this product:
http://walthers.com/exec/productinfo/433-7810
It's a Life-Like Power-Loc remote switch. The track part of it looks identical to the remote switch that came included in my starter set, but the starter set did not include the three other pieces (what looks like an on-off switch and two sets of wires). What do they do?
Thanks again, all.
Some of you probably read this in another thread, but since it is N scale specific I thought I'd tell it here too.
I recently got more than I expected out of an ebay auction. I bought an Atlas late-model N scale loco on ebay. It was advertised as used without the original box but otherwise in excellent condition. Being well documented photographically and having a great price--under $45--I couldn't resist. I won the auction and awaited my item. When it arrived it looked great, no noticable damage or wear on the wheels. I immediately thought about DCC conversion, so I pulled the shell off to inspect the light board and what do I see but a Lenz decoder already installed! WOW!!! The seller was one of these second had dealers who buys up collections cheap an auctions them off. Probably had no idea what he had. I put it on my programming track, read the decoder address as default 03, changed the address to the road #, then tested it on the main. It runs like a new one. Infact, I don't think its been broken in. I figure I got about $145 worth of loco and decoder for about $40. Life is good! " border="0" width="15" height="15" />
Ron
Owner and superintendant of the N scale Texas Colorado & Western Railway, a protolanced representaion of the BNSF from Fort Worth, TX through Wichita Falls TX and into Colorado.
Check out the TC&WRy on at https://www.facebook.com/TCWRy
Check out my MRR How-To YouTube channel at https://www.youtube.com/c/RonsTrainsNThings
n2mopac,
I like the mag pretty well. Like all mags, it's a little hit and miss as to whether I'm interested in an article or not, but thats OK. At least it's all scale specific.