SteamFreak wrote: zgardner18 wrote: Okay, I don't think any of you know but I am presently in Hawaii on the big island for work. Today being Sunday, I was naughty and missed church and went up the coast to a train museum. That's right the big island did have trains at one time to haul sugar and passengers.Zak, interesting shots of the abandoned ROW, and that's a very boxy, unique caboose. But there are no running trains in Hawaii? I thought it was supposed to be paradise!
zgardner18 wrote: Okay, I don't think any of you know but I am presently in Hawaii on the big island for work. Today being Sunday, I was naughty and missed church and went up the coast to a train museum. That's right the big island did have trains at one time to haul sugar and passengers.
Okay, I don't think any of you know but I am presently in Hawaii on the big island for work. Today being Sunday, I was naughty and missed church and went up the coast to a train museum. That's right the big island did have trains at one time to haul sugar and passengers.
Zak, interesting shots of the abandoned ROW, and that's a very boxy, unique caboose. But there are no running trains in Hawaii? I thought it was supposed to be paradise!
zgardner18 wrote:Okay, I don't think any of you know but I am presently in Hawaii on the big island for work. Today being Sunday, I was naughty and missed church and went up the coast to a train museum. That's right the big island did have trains at one time to haul sugar and passengers.
Nelson
Ex-Southern 385 Being Hoisted
UP2CSX wrote:Jeff,According my calculation from the specs, the camera you posted is about 1 million pixels, or 1 megapixel. Not great but not awful either. It looks like your camera also has a lower resolution setting. Make sure it's set to the highest resolution. JK did a fine job of giving you some hints (I'm printing them out and saving them since I'm terrible with a camera) but I really do think it's the auto focus that's causing the problem. On my camera, I have to press and hold down the shutter button for several seconds until it has focus on the subject. As I wrote before, and JK seems to agree, having anything non-scene related item in the background will cause the auto focus to "hunt" and that means the plaster of paris box may end up perfectly in focus while everything else is out of focus. That last picture you posted seemed to be in good focus all the way through the depth of field and I think it's becuase it was a small scene with nothing to distract the camera. Keep practicing and I think you'll get better phots as you learn.
Jeff,
According my calculation from the specs, the camera you posted is about 1 million pixels, or 1 megapixel. Not great but not awful either. It looks like your camera also has a lower resolution setting. Make sure it's set to the highest resolution. JK did a fine job of giving you some hints (I'm printing them out and saving them since I'm terrible with a camera) but I really do think it's the auto focus that's causing the problem. On my camera, I have to press and hold down the shutter button for several seconds until it has focus on the subject. As I wrote before, and JK seems to agree, having anything non-scene related item in the background will cause the auto focus to "hunt" and that means the plaster of paris box may end up perfectly in focus while everything else is out of focus. That last picture you posted seemed to be in good focus all the way through the depth of field and I think it's becuase it was a small scene with nothing to distract the camera. Keep practicing and I think you'll get better phots as you learn.
I think your calculation is a bit off it comes out to .1 megapixel. A megapixel is 1,000,000 pixels. Jeffs camera is 101376 pixels. The photos he is putting online have been enlarged and are 25 DPI. What Jeff needs is a better camera. I like Mouses thread about just that. I think it would be great to see Jeffrey get a camera that could show off the great modeling work that he has done. I would send him my old 3.5 MP camera, but it died thus allowing me to justify spending the money for a Digital Rebel XT.......
Jeffs camera is also, according to the specs, a "fixed" lens. It is basically a "pin hole" type camera. It doesn't have an ajustable focus on it. For under $20 (retail - Jeffrey got it on sale for $10) you ain't gonna get many bells and whistles.
Ray Seneca Lake, Ontario, and Western R.R. (S.L.O.&W.) in HO
We'll get there sooner or later!
http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/512144/ShowPost.aspx
The problem with the overhead light is that you have no control of the direction of the light. That is why you are getting washouts and poor contrast. Also (depending on the bulbs) you are probably getting excess blue light. Try shutting down the overheads and using other lamps to provide lighting from directions which you control. I started with using my desk lamps and gradually started picking up the cheap metal clamp lights from my "bargain basement" store.
Bob (Railphotog) has a great clinic that talks about lighting. Maybe some kind soul will put up a link.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
It's not going to be much, but you will get a greater depth of field or range of what is in focus with the 3.9. That means more light.
The biggest challenge will be stabilizing the camera.
F 2.8 f=3.9
As for light, the layout is under four flourescent lifgts that are the equavalent of four 100 watt incandescant bulbs.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
jeffrey-wimberly wrote: Chip, I'll go you one better than taking a pic of it. I had already made a scan of it and included the info in the manual.
Chip, I'll go you one better than taking a pic of it. I had already made a scan of it and included the info in the manual.
I can't make out the symbols but from the specs I'd say that you need two things: A lot of light and you have to fix the camera to something. I doubt it has a tripod mount. That means you will have to build your own possibly with clamps.
What are the symbols on the dial?
How about taking a picture of your new camera with your old so we can see it. We might be able to give a few ideas on how to get the results you are looking for. For instance, You want you shot to focus at a particular point, but the camera wants to focus on a object in the center of the screen.
Center the camera on the object you want to focus and use your software to crop and center the picture the way you want it. that's what I had to do with my 1.2 mp camera. I had to force the focus. Let's see if we can't solve the issue in another way.
SD60M
First of the C30-7 is an Atlas, not a BLI. I've installed an NCE DA-SR in it for DCC. The rotary beacon is a Details West beacon with a grain of rice bulb inserted inside the amber plastic lens. It is then connected to the decoder and programmed for a rotary beacon.
I've seen some of your videos on youtube. Based on them, your other postings and your avatar, it looks like your SD40-2s are BLI units. The problem with BLI and other sound equipped locos is that there are no extra lighting functions on the decoder. As far as I can figure the only way to add such an effect on them is the add a separate decoder than can provide the lighting effects.
The beacon isn;t hard to do, just takes patience. It makes for a really neat effect to have 3 or 4 or 5 of them on in a dimly lighted room.
jktrains
jktrains wrote: IMO, the first pic is better in terms of clarity and image quality. While the subject is out of focus, the background is in focus suggesting that the camera is confused as to what to focus on. As Steam Freak suggested, does the camera have a macro setting? You say that the foreground plaster is actually painted gray, and that can be seen in the first pic. Probably because that camera has a better light meter. More on that laterIf the camera is focusing on something that is not the subject, then trick the camera. Point it at the subject and get the camera to focus on it, then while holding the focus move the camera angle to what you desire and shoot. In the first pic, even though the subject is out of focus, the sign lettering is slightly more clearer than in the second pic. More than likely the result of the higher resolution of the camera. If the camera doesn't have a macro setting than take a full frame picture at the highest resolution and use your editing software to crop the photo to what you want. Your new camera is sacrificing resolution for distance from the subject. With digital photography resolution is everything.
IMO, the first pic is better in terms of clarity and image quality. While the subject is out of focus, the background is in focus suggesting that the camera is confused as to what to focus on. As Steam Freak suggested, does the camera have a macro setting? You say that the foreground plaster is actually painted gray, and that can be seen in the first pic. Probably because that camera has a better light meter. More on that later
If the camera is focusing on something that is not the subject, then trick the camera. Point it at the subject and get the camera to focus on it, then while holding the focus move the camera angle to what you desire and shoot. In the first pic, even though the subject is out of focus, the sign lettering is slightly more clearer than in the second pic. More than likely the result of the higher resolution of the camera. If the camera doesn't have a macro setting than take a full frame picture at the highest resolution and use your editing software to crop the photo to what you want. Your new camera is sacrificing resolution for distance from the subject. With digital photography resolution is everything.
Now, as to the new camera. The settings on it are very, very limited. Comparing it to even a median quality camera is like comparing the Bac hmann EZ Command to the Digitrax DCC system with radio control and extra boosters. There is no comparison. The only lighting settings are for home, office and daylight. I get the best results with the office setting which is also the default setting. All other settings are for the cameras video mode, which in AVI format gives low-quality web-cam images at best. There's no way to change the focus and exposure settings are non-existant. The camera adjusts the settings itself on a shot by shot basis and no two are ever the same. If I had the money to get a decent camera, something like five megapixal or better, I would. Any camera I get would have to be able to work with Windows 98, being that's what I use.
Check your PM's.
jktrains, I would like to offer my compliments on your detailed post to Jeffrey. It was a decent, and patient thing for you to do. I am sure that if he studies the information and experiments, he is sure to offer even better photos to the membership.
-Crandell
jktrains wrote: I got these coming through town at dusk last night.Waiting to proceedCrossing Main Street after sunsetCaught in the evening light FYI - These are all straight from the camera. No editing, retouching or photoshopping to add elements or change the characterisitcs of the image.
I got these coming through town at dusk last night.
Waiting to proceed
Crossing Main Street after sunset
Caught in the evening light
FYI - These are all straight from the camera. No editing, retouching or photoshopping to add elements or change the characterisitcs of the image.
jeffrey-wimberly wrote:J.P.: After I left the thread yesterday I got a very surprising number of PM's and emails of encouragement to come back and post again. I finally did, sometime between 10 and 11 pm after I had cooled down. I was unaware of how many people here enjoy my posts.
Jeff, I am glad you decided to post again, I have been out of the hobby for awhile and now that i'm back in the hobby, I enjoy your post, especially the detail you put into a scene. I am glad you reported the troll. Now i'm going over to the practice forum to learn how to post pictures.
conrail92 wrote:I might try too scrounge around and get a arial of the full layout ;) If you go to my layout website in my sig you can find the track plan and some videos ect... Not everything is up to date though things have changed a bit.
Personally this is something I would like to see more of on the WPF. Close ups and small shots are good, but I would really like to see more pictures of entire layouts, where possible, and shots that are taken back so you can get a good idea of what and how the layout is setup.
Thanks everyone, every photo, regardless of quality, inspires those who have nothing yet; but still dream and live vicariously through the work of others.
SteamFreak wrote:Yep, looks like the forum's foremost troll has a major bug up his caboose. Probably can't figure out why Jeff is so universally liked and he isn't.
Yep, looks like the forum's foremost troll has a major bug up his caboose. Probably can't figure out why Jeff is so universally liked and he isn't.
Hmmmm..... Maybe because Jeff doesn't swear at people and call them idiots!
EDIT: Maybe you're right, Conrail92.
NS rules the world! You're right GG, talk about bad education!
[[Guilford Guy said - "Ugh, looks like we have another "upchuck."]]
Hey; I didn't do anything!
Glenn,
Great layout. Hope to see more in the future.
Sue
Anything is possible if you do not know what you are talking about.
AltoonaRailroader wrote: Very nice, how did you get the tail light on the Van to light up? Did you buy it that way or did you engineer it yourself?
Very nice, how did you get the tail light on the Van to light up? Did you buy it that way or did you engineer it yourself?
Excepty for the signs and the street lights everything else was built either from a kit or from scratch. The van had mini leds installed. The black car on the other side of the grade crossing has 2 grain of rice bulbs installed in the headlights. The gas station sign is scratch built. It is only about an 1/8" thick. The grade crossing flashers are built from an Oregon Rail Supply kit. The pop machines were bought off of someone here on the forum with white LEDs installed inside them. With the exception of the sign, none of it is extremely difficult to do, but the results exceed the effort required.
Now about the contrast and light metering. You need to understand how a light meter functions and what its trying to do. The light meter measures the light reflected from the objects in frame and adjusts the settings to achieve what is known as "middle gray". Middle gray is also known as 18% gray meaning that it reflects 18% of incident light. Your old camera does a much better job of this as evident that the foreground actually shows gray. Your new camera can't handle the large light refective area in the foreground. To compensate for it I would bet that it makes the image subject darker than what you want.
You state that both pics received the same editing. Editing the pics before posting makes diagnosing problems difficult. Why don;t you post the unedited pics in a new, separate thread. It would be interesting to see the raw image. All other the images I posted this weekend are unedited.
Lastly, you still need to remove the clutter from the frame. In the first pic you can still see the plaster carton, Elmers glue, spray bottle scenery bags. Get rid of this junk. It not only makes the pic look bad and distracts from the subject, it can also cause the camera the be confused as the light metering and focus. Though with them in the picture it's like playing "Where's Waldo" - what can you find in the picture that doesn't belong
I would stick with the old camera and spend your time experimenting with it changing f-stop and exposure setting and how it focuses. Lastly, does the camera have a timer. The last time that could be causing problems is camera shake from pushing the shutter button. Using the timer eliminates that jiggle. My exposure can range from 1 sec to 8 sec. You can't hold a camera still for that long. Also, use a tripod when possible.
Jeffrey,
You don't know me and I don't know you but I seen many of your posts, don't let these guys get you down. I see nothing wrong with your pictures...though I'm no Photog expert. Your shots show a decent amount of detail in my opinion.
As far as I'm aware this post is for showing your work and that's what you're doing. I never saw any requirements that say you MUST post professional shots on WPF. Guys, the last word in the title this thread is fun.
I hope mine and the other post of encouragement, which I'm sure you got, change mind about not posting anymore pics here.
J.P.
SteamFreak wrote: Yep, looks like the forum's foremost troll has a major bug up his caboose. Probably can't figure out why Jeff is so universally liked and he isn't. Great photos everyone. I love the yard C&O Fan, and I'm also a sucker for night shots. Jktrains, does that Good Year sign have a fiber optic chaser around the perimeter?Jeff, don't let the twerp get you down. Judging by the side-by-side photos, I think your old camera is actually capable of a better photo than the new one, but it's focused on the items in the background. I can clearly read the Plaster of Paris box, and the smokebox door on that junked Bachmann is unmistakable. Does that camera have a macro setting? If you could focus on the engines in the foreground, it should be sharper and less pixelated. I think we'd be able to read the signs above the stalls.
Great photos everyone. I love the yard C&O Fan, and I'm also a sucker for night shots. Jktrains, does that Good Year sign have a fiber optic chaser around the perimeter?
Jeff, don't let the twerp get you down. Judging by the side-by-side photos, I think your old camera is actually capable of a better photo than the new one, but it's focused on the items in the background. I can clearly read the Plaster of Paris box, and the smokebox door on that junked Bachmann is unmistakable. Does that camera have a macro setting? If you could focus on the engines in the foreground, it should be sharper and less pixelated. I think we'd be able to read the signs above the stalls.
SteamFreak
The Goodyear sign has sequencing and/or chase lights around the perimeter. The words also sequence on and off. There are 44 possible patterns that can be selected. Unfortunately with the time exposure needed to get the pic the sign goes through the entire sequence. A short video would show it better. Maybe this weekend.
UP2CSX wrote: JK, I love that Sunoco sign too. That's exactly the type of thing I'm looking for instead of those corny Model Power gas station signs. Please give us at least a summary of how you did it, especially the graphics.
JK, I love that Sunoco sign too. That's exactly the type of thing I'm looking for instead of those corny Model Power gas station signs. Please give us at least a summary of how you did it, especially the graphics.
I'll do that in a separate thread so it doesn't get lost in the shuffle.
What, Haven't you not hear?
NS bought every railroad in the world way back in 3247!
Geeez, didn't they teach things in school way back recently...
Alex