I've used artist's frisking tape in the past. It's what pinstripers use when they do their thing on cars, guitars, and whatever else. It conforms well to curves and such. It works pretty well.
My favorite though is Bare Metal Foil. It's at the hobby shop in the model car or planes section. It's adhesive backed foil thats very thin so it adheres to the contours of what you're painting. You can trim it easily with a hobby knife. The weight of the knife with a brand new blade will cut it, its that thin.
pcarrell wrote:Dave Vollmer, Have you seen the middle of page 17 of the Jan/Feb N Scale Railroading mag? GHQ is going to do a pewter Pennsylvania L1 Mikado conversion for the kato chassis. Looks good! It's not listed on their ebsite yet though.
Yes, I saw that... I had wanted another (I have one already) but now I'm thinking not. The Kato-2-8-2 is a bear to convert to DCC and that kit's a tough one.
Modeling the Rio Grande Southern First District circa 1938-1946 in HOn3.
What is the scale distance or regular distance between telephone poles - Help?
John
RR Redneck wrote: NSnscaler wrote:Spray paint's not the way to go. Trust me. I use an air brush at work, but on my models, I have been known to use spray paint when I dont want to crank up the air compressor.
NSnscaler wrote:Spray paint's not the way to go. Trust me.
I use an air brush at work, but on my models, I have been known to use spray paint when I dont want to crank up the air compressor.
Yea, you're probably right. I tried spray paint for the first tme a few weeks ago...it came out less than ideal. But I suppose if you've practiced and are adept at it, then spray paint can work.
Any ideas on my earlier kato coupler post anyone?
I had to restart on the layout, so I am down from a 5'x6' to a 25"x48". Oh well it gives me a small test platform to try out different methods of modeling. BTW, this was my 900th post.
Lionel collector, stuck in an N scaler's modelling space.
Army National Guard E3MOS 91BI have multiple scales nowZ, N, HO, O, and G.
Dave Vollmer wrote: Major setback in my PRR H10s project. Basically, I trashed the mechanism. I had a DZ123 all soldered in place and everything worked, except the headlight only lit in reverse. So, what did I do? I switched motor leads. Great idea, except that as I soldered the second motor lead, I noticed the solder wasn't flowing from the tinned ip. Why? Oh, I see. The iron was busy melting the motor lead mount instead of the solder. Try as I might to fix it, no go.These are the times that try men's souls.Back to eBay. The original Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0 that gave its life for the cause of the Standard Railroad of the World was $40 on eBay. That's no small wad, but at least I didn't trash a PCM or BLI. I'm bidding again on eBay.This steam project will be my last. Henceforward, any new acquisitions in motor power will be diesel, barring some spectacular pre-DCC-installed-PRR-steam miracle deal.In fact, this project is driving me screaming into the arms of my Penn Central/Conrail idea.
Major setback in my PRR H10s project. Basically, I trashed the mechanism. I had a DZ123 all soldered in place and everything worked, except the headlight only lit in reverse. So, what did I do? I switched motor leads. Great idea, except that as I soldered the second motor lead, I noticed the solder wasn't flowing from the tinned ip. Why? Oh, I see. The iron was busy melting the motor lead mount instead of the solder. Try as I might to fix it, no go.
These are the times that try men's souls.
Back to eBay. The original Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0 that gave its life for the cause of the Standard Railroad of the World was $40 on eBay. That's no small wad, but at least I didn't trash a PCM or BLI. I'm bidding again on eBay.
This steam project will be my last. Henceforward, any new acquisitions in motor power will be diesel, barring some spectacular pre-DCC-installed-PRR-steam miracle deal.
In fact, this project is driving me screaming into the arms of my Penn Central/Conrail idea.
That's a bummer Dave. I sure hope you get the one on ebay for a decent price. I gotta hand it to you for taking on such a project. More than I could accomplish. I am enjoying building an N Scale Architect building, the Shue Cement Company though. It is quite a process and taking some time but is coming along great. Hope your next go at your project works out well for you. Keep us posted.
Rob
Hmmm, I think I made a mistake.
I have built several layouts in the past 35 years and it seams that each time I build the bench work using a different method. This time I am building a door size table with some extensions and decided to use a method that I haven't done before. This method uses ripped birch plywood for the strip lumber and is glued and nailed together. I basically followed the design principles as described in the World's Greatest Hobby "Building Your First Model Railroad" video. I have seen this technique used in other layouts in MR magazine and thought that I'd give it a try. Anyway, my issues are that since this layout is glued and nailed it is much harder to make changes in the future. With a table that is screwed together I can just unscrew the areas that I want to modify and make the adjustments needed. I am in the process of adding an extension along a wall and have already found that I want to make an adjustment to the main table and can't. The end result of the extension will be the same but I'll have to use different techniques to attach it to the main board. I wish I would have used screws to hold the layout together instead of glue and nails.
Anyway, I was just wondering what table building techniques others have used and what you like and don't like. Anyone care to share?
I also built in the garage and soldered all the joints., but I cut staggered gaps int the straights and between turnouts in sidings. They do close up but even with all these gaps the I still get an occasional kink. I glued the track down and it seems the turnouts don't budge and the kinks end up at thair rail joiners mostly.
If I did it again I would paint all the benchwork to seal it but I would still glue all track.
The new curve on the inside track inside my tunnel is in place. It's exactly 13 and 3/4" radius (thanks to Kato), but I still get a little slippage with my new GP9 on that curve with a healthy load. I'm guessing it's just the engine, not the track. Nevertheless, that kink that was developing is gone. The other kinks are now gone. Combined with the Peco turnout (lost spring) I replaced on Christmas, my track is once again in great shape.
Funny, I took great care laying the track this summer. I think my problems (save for the turnout spring) were a result of laying (and soldering) the track in a hot, humid garage and then moving the layout to a cooler, drier indoor room.
Use expanion joints! Don't go overboard like I did. I hate "slow" or "dead" spots so at first I had soldered every single rail joint. Somehow, I knew better, but did it anyway.
Nevertheless, all is ell for now. The trains run like a swiss watch (except for my new GP9 straining under a load of hoppers and gondolas with plaster-cast loads; it needs a mate to MU with!).
curtw_944 wrote: jwils1 wrote: Dave:Thanks for the reply. It's encouraging. I think I'll check out my LHS and take a good look at everthing and see if they think the box car setup would work. I'll also go the the train show and get as much info as I can.I really think that I do want to try it. Looks like fun! Jwils1, Mizzel dosent have a huge selection of "N" scale but they have some. I would sugest going to caboose or the Hobby lobby on 92nd and wadsworth. If you want to meet up at the train show/swap at the jeffco fairgrounds coming up in january, I would love to. I also have some modern model power cars that I could trade you to help get your car selection up and going. Let me know what you may want to do. Curt
jwils1 wrote: Dave:Thanks for the reply. It's encouraging. I think I'll check out my LHS and take a good look at everthing and see if they think the box car setup would work. I'll also go the the train show and get as much info as I can.I really think that I do want to try it. Looks like fun!
Dave:
Thanks for the reply. It's encouraging. I think I'll check out my LHS and take a good look at everthing and see if they think the box car setup would work. I'll also go the the train show and get as much info as I can.
I really think that I do want to try it. Looks like fun!
Curt:
Thanks for the offer but it looks like I might not be able to make it to the Jeffco train show. I think I'm going to postpone my try at N scale for a little while. I have much yet to do on my HO layout and I would like to wait awhile to see what develops in N sound.
In the meantime I'll keep reading the posts and continue to get all the info I can so I'll be ready to try it with as much knowledge as I can gather.
Jerry
Rio Grande vs. Santa Fe.....the battle is over but the glory remains!
trainfreek92 wrote: Spidge, why dont you just put a nice set of micro-trains trucks/couplers on the concor? That shoudl make it run great
Spidge, why dont you just put a nice set of micro-trains trucks/couplers on the concor? That shoudl make it run great
Thanks for the thought but the Concor steps and coupler box are metal parts that are one piece with the chassis. I usually do just that.For the mean time I put IM metal wheels and installed the MT couplers but I had to shrink up the box quite a bit.
spidge wrote: Hey now you guys are hidding some good info here. Maybe some of these questions should be on the main page?Is there anyone out there who knows who may carry SP cabeese, not the silver one.I have been looking for some time and have only found the Concor that I don't realy like. I think the caboose type is C-40-4 bay window. Or maybe some advice on how to help the two Concor Babeese run better?Many Thanks.
Hey now you guys are hidding some good info here. Maybe some of these questions should be on the main page?
Is there anyone out there who knows who may carry SP cabeese, not the silver one.
I have been looking for some time and have only found the Concor that I don't realy like. I think the caboose type is C-40-4 bay window.
Or maybe some advice on how to help the two Concor Babeese run better?
Many Thanks.
Microtrains makes an SP C30-1 caboose. However, they were pretty much gone by the late 60's. The steel cupola caboose ( http://www.4nscale.com/details.asp?p=5114 ) Microtrains makes bears some resemblance to an SP C40-1 or C40-3 ( http://espee.railfan.net/picindex/c-40-3_photos/1061_sp-c-40-3-caboose-todd_osterberg.jpg )steel caboose. However, the windows are oversized for the SP.
Andre
apartment railer wrote:Airbrush help needed, Looking to do some bashing on locos. Im talking swapping hoods etc. So when it comes time to paint my expensive lil hobby I want the paint to look good, and not thick like when you use a spray can. Time to airbrush, but I have no clue on what to buy. I really dont want to spend crazy $ and I dont want to use the testors kit with the air can...
Hi apartment railer,
Ask 10 people on this and you may get 12 answers. :-)
Here's what I use and have found easy and successful. I bought a Badger off brand. It says Sears but I expect that Badger made it anyway. The Badger model is a 200 NH. It is a bottom feed single action, internal mix airbrush. Check out the Badger web site for it. I like the simplicity of single action and the volume is adjusted by a set screw in the back. I run it at 18 to 25 psi with an old air compressor that my brother gave me. If you need to buy an air compressor I'd recommend that you NOT buy an oil-less unit. They are typically really noisy so get a model that takes oil. You'll also want to make sure it has an air holding tank along with a pressure gauge and water trap. You don't want any water splotching your nice paint job. You can get a compressor like this for around $70 to $80 if you really shop. I recommend using water base paint because it won't attack your plastic models. I use Badger Precise Design Model Flex. It is already thin so does not need to be thinned for an airbrush. Just pour the paint right into your airbrush jar. Then when you're done you can pour what's left right back into your paint jar. This is the simplest method that I have found while still getting great results. Airbrushing can be intimidating but once you get set up and give it a try you'll find that it's not that hard. If you have any problems just post them here and I'll answer as best I can.
From my experiance, the key to success when painting anything is to do many light coats. Don't rush your work - rushed work results in paint going on to heavy, runs, hiding of the details.
Use a compressor for constant pressure.
Even some cheap airbrushes can give great results. I used to use one that I got from harbour freight for like 15 bucks. It was a dual action ,internal mix air brush- looked like a Badger copy.
Practice putting paint down lightly on something like cardboard before putting it on a model. Once you master that, then just go for it! You'll be amazed at what you can do.
Craig
I've had a lot of people here try to explain the differences--which is better and what not, but the best explanation I've see is on the Dream, Plan, Build Video #1. Had I watched that, I would have bought a single-stage internal-mix airbrush. Instead, I bought a two-stage internal-mix and it took quite a while to figure out how to get a good job out of it.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.