richhotrain Just smear it on lightly with your finger.
Just smear it on lightly with your finger.
I used a toothpick and put it inside the frog and it still does the same thing. &*^%$#* Bachmann urinates me off!!!
Lube the gears and set the CVs higher to kick start that little sucker.
Alton Junction
richhotrain Lube the gears and set the CVs higher to kick start that little sucker.
Gotta wait till next week to go to the LHS.
Have to figure out how to do the CV's. I THOUGHT I knew when I tried before but it never "took", I suppose all decoders are different? I have the insert that came with the decoder and the NCE guide is easy to follow. I'll have to try that. Which CV should I adjust?
CV2.
Maybe set it somewhere between 5 and 10 for starters.
Play with it and see if it will keep to loco moving at speed step 1.
richhotrain CV2. Maybe set it somewhere between 5 and 10 for starters. Play with it and see if it will keep to loco moving at speed step 1.
OK, will start with that. Will let you know in a little while. I have real world stuff to do for now.
Paul_in_GA richhotrain Lube the gears and set the CVs higher to kick start that little sucker. Gotta wait till next week to go to the LHS.
Pick up two items. Gear lube and light motor oil.
I have a TCS T1A decoder. It says in the pamphlet that CV2 "Start volts -- Set the voltage when the throttle is first applied."
Paul_in_GA Thanks Rob, looking into it [a Frog Juicer] now. How do you wire it up? Just one wire to the frog? Does it come with installation instructions?
Thanks Rob, looking into it [a Frog Juicer] now. How do you wire it up? Just one wire to the frog? Does it come with installation instructions?
The juicer comes with easy to follow instructions. As I noted earlier, you connect the track bus to the juicer with two wires, and run a single wire to the frog. You can mount the juicer under your roadbed with screws or foam tape. Installation could not be simpler.
Rob Spangler
wp8thsub Paul_in_GA Thanks Rob, looking into it [a Frog Juicer] now. How do you wire it up? Just one wire to the frog? Does it come with installation instructions? The juicer comes with easy to follow instructions. As I noted earlier, you connect the track bus to the juicer with two wires, and run a single wire to the frog. You can mount the juicer under your roadbed with screws or foam tape. Installation could not be simpler.
Hi Rob, on order. Hopefully this will fix it.
Paul_in_GA richhotrain CV2. Maybe set it somewhere between 5 and 10 for starters. Play with it and see if it will keep to loco moving at speed step 1. I have a TCS T1A decoder. It says in the pamphlet that CV2 "Start volts -- Set the voltage when the throttle is first applied."
Rich, CV's next.
I just checked the turnout with my VOM. Now I'm real good with these meters, used them since 1981.
Here's what I did.
I OHM'd out the turnout by placing an alligator clip lead to both ends of a rail before and after the turnout, ditto on the other rail. While they were clipped I heard my meter ringing, good continuity.
While I did this I lifted the turnout and wiggled the crap out of it trying to see if there was a loose wire and if there was the ringing would stop. It passed with flying colors. I even rang out the frog during a wiggle check and it was fine too. So in my opinion it HAS to be the loco because it does it on other turnouts, and others have had the same problem.
Bachman, NEVER, EVER again. Someone could GIVE me a Bachmann and I'd toss it in the garbage.
Paul, if you are still looking for a solution to the stalling problem, I presented a clinic on tuning up Spectrum's steam loco's several years ago at an NMRA meet. I put a shorter version of the clinic online several years ago.
I have a 2-8-0 from the first run, did this procedure on it and I've had absolutely no stalling problems anywhere on my layout, or others.
I have posted this procedure in another forum, but if you're interested in at least reading it, here is the address to the page the procedure is on. I can't seem to insert a clickable link. While this procedure for illustration purposes was done to a Decapod, it applies to all of Spectrum's steamers.
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11415&highlight=Spectrum+tune&page=3
You'll need to copy and paste it into your browser.
Carey
Keep it between the Rails
Alabama Central Homepage
Nara member #128
NMRA &SER Life member
Thank you Rich. How do you add a link like that onto the forums?
cjcrescent Thank you Rich. How do you add a link like that onto the forums?
Glad to help.
There are probably other ways to do it but I did a copy and paste to Notebook and then a copy and paste back into the forum thread.
Rich
Thanks for the info. Hope I can remember that if and when I need to add a link!
cjcrescent Paul, if you are still looking for a solution to the stalling problem, I presented a clinic on tuning up Spectrum's steam loco's several years ago at an NMRA meet. I put a shorter version of the clinic online several years ago. I have a 2-8-0 from the first run, did this procedure on it and I've had absolutely no stalling problems anywhere on my layout, or others. I have posted this procedure in another forum, but if you're interested in at least reading it, here is the address to the page the procedure is on. I can't seem to insert a clickable link. While this procedure for illustration purposes was done to a Decapod, it applies to all of Spectrum's steamers. http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11415&highlight=Spectrum+tune&page=3 You'll need to copy and paste it into your browser.
Thanks Carey.
I have saved that page. However, something like this is hundreds of thousands of miles over my head. First I have no manual to break it down except for the cheesy exploded diagram but to me that's as useless as toilet paper. Second, I feel that if I try to disassemble it and can't get it back together properly I'll just have to toss it. Add in the trillions of tiny parts and well, you get the picture. I have never done anything more major than putting a decoder in that Bachmann loco.
Tried putting all kinds of numbers in CV2. When I put in 100 as soon as I dialed in 1 it took off like a rocket! So I reset it back because 5-10 didn't do anything. at least I got the CV2 to program but I guess I'll just have to live with it at least till I try that frog juice board.
In the meantime I have the tunnel built out of hydrocal but now I have to wait till it cures till I stain it, I have to ballast under the tunnel or at least part of it, then I want to build a cardboard mountain mockup before I start cutting WS foam profile boards and foam.
Still working on the Mining company, have to airbrush the base of it black as brushing looks horrible so I have to get back up to speed with airbrushing, can't lay the track for IT till I get the mountain built so I can properly locate the mining company.
So I can finish painting the townhouse, and fifty million other things seemingly going at once.
This is a hobby within a hobby ad infinitum...
Well I've read through all the posts, and I'm convinced the problem is somewhere in the tender's pickup. I noted that you stated that you screwed down the trucks as tight as possible and they still had some play., but maybe they now don't have enough play. This could cause a wheel to lose contact in a critical spot, especially with such a short wheelspan. Try backing off the screw on the rear truck about a quarter a turn and a half turn on the front truck. Experiment with a little and see if it makes a difference.
If all else fails, call up Bachmann, explain the problem, they'll probably tell you to send it in and replace it with a new one, their warranty is one of the best. And don't let one bad loco sour you sgainst a company, most all of the companies have had a bad loco or even a run, they all will try to make good on their warranties.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
modelmaker51 If all else fails, call up Bachmann, explain the problem, they'll probably tell you to send it in and replace it with a new one, their warranty is one of the best. And don't let one bad loco sour you sgainst a company, most all of the companies have had a bad loco or even a run, they all will try to make good on their warranties.
While that is true about the warranty, the problem is that if Bachmann cannot repair the loco, it will offer to replace it with whatever it has on hand, Usually, that will be an entirely different loco from what you had sent in.
modelmaker51 Well I've read through all the posts, and I'm convinced the problem is somewhere in the tender's pickup. I noted that you stated that you screwed down the trucks as tight as possible and they still had some play., but maybe they now don't have enough play. This could cause a wheel to lose contact in a critical spot, especially with such a short wheelspan. Try backing off the screw on the rear truck about a quarter a turn and a half turn on the front truck. Experiment with a little and see if it makes a difference. If all else fails, call up Bachmann, explain the problem, they'll probably tell you to send it in and replace it with a new one, their warranty is one of the best. And don't let one bad loco sour you sgainst a company, most all of the companies have had a bad loco or even a run, they all will try to make good on their warranties.
Thanks Jay. I already have one in and haven't heard from them in a long time. I was told they take a long time to get back to you.
As for the wheels, I'll try that but when I initially looked at them there was a LOT of slop, vertical slop. There's a stop so you can't get them even close to tight but I'll try it anyway.
I might send it in but that means taking out the decoder and although it may seem easy to you guys a newbie like me pulls my remaining hair out dealing with taking apart those tenders.
Thanks.
Paul
richhotrain modelmaker51 If all else fails, call up Bachmann, explain the problem, they'll probably tell you to send it in and replace it with a new one, their warranty is one of the best. And don't let one bad loco sour you sgainst a company, most all of the companies have had a bad loco or even a run, they all will try to make good on their warranties. While that is true about the warranty, the problem is that if Bachmann cannot repair the loco, it will offer to replace it with whatever it has on hand, Usually, that will be an entirely different loco from what you had sent in. Rich
That's fine Rich. But when I spoke to them they seemed a little hostile, like it was my fault. I got a little defensive about it as I went out of my way to be cordial. The woman barked at me like a drill sargeant so they left a bad impression with me. She even barked at me that I'd have to pay $25 if they couldn't fix it. That's when I WANTED to tell her to power it up at full speed and drive it to a place where there is no sunshine but I didn't. All I thought was what a lousy person and a lousy company. I most definately will not pay $25 for them to fix crap, I'll toss it first and buy more expensive, higher quality stuff first.
So all in all Bachmann is on my excrement list.
If they want to send me something I don't care what road it is as I'm not doing a prototype, I would just like something that works.
Paul_in_GA richhotrain modelmaker51 If all else fails, call up Bachmann, explain the problem, they'll probably tell you to send it in and replace it with a new one, their warranty is one of the best. And don't let one bad loco sour you sgainst a company, most all of the companies have had a bad loco or even a run, they all will try to make good on their warranties. While that is true about the warranty, the problem is that if Bachmann cannot repair the loco, it will offer to replace it with whatever it has on hand, Usually, that will be an entirely different loco from what you had sent in. Rich That's fine Rich. But when I spoke to them they seemed a little hostile, like it was my fault. I got a little defensive about it as I went out of my way to be cordial. The woman barked at me like a drill sargeant so they left a bad impression with me. She even barked at me that I'd have to pay $25 if they couldn't fix it. That's when I WANTED to tell her to power it up at full speed and drive it to a place where there is no sunshine but I didn't. All I thought was what a lousy person and a lousy company. I most definately will not pay $25 for them to fix crap, I'll toss it first and buy more expensive, higher quality stuff first. So all in all Bachmann is on my excrement list. If they want to send me something I don't care what road it is as I'm not doing a prototype, I would just like something that works.
My dad has a friend who calls it "Bachmann junk", and I don't blame them. I have a few of their items, but the majority of what I have come from Atlas and Athearn, with a mix of Model Power, Walthers, and some other companies.
The Lehigh Valley Railroad, the Route of the Black Diamond Express, John Wilkes and Maple Leaf.
-Jake, modeling the Barclay, Towanda & Susquehanna.
Wow! Eight pages, and unless I missed it because my eyes were glazing over, nobody mentioned that the Bachmann 2-8-0 picks-up power on all eight drivers and two wheels on one side of one tender truck and two wheels on the opposite side of the other tender truck. The first thing I'd like to know is what's sitting where when it stops. That should mean that all of the wheels on one side would need to be losing contact for the loco to stop. Instead, I'd check those plugs and the wires to them.
Wayne
doctorwayne Wow! Eight pages, and unless I missed it because my eyes were glazing over, nobody mentioned that the Bachmann 2-8-0 picks-up power on all eight drivers and two wheels on one side of one tender truck and two wheels on the opposite side of the other tender truck. The first thing I'd like to know is what's sitting where when it stops. That should mean that all of the wheels on one side would need to be losing contact for the loco to stop. Instead, I'd check those plugs and the wires to them. Wayne
Dr. Wayne, I respectfully disagree. As a test I took two double-ended alligator test leads. Clipped one end of each to the rails. Now I have power at the other ends right? Then I set the loco to 1 on the CAB. I touched every combination of wheels on the tender and they all made the main loco's wheels move. I never once got any movement when I tried the same on the main driver wheels. Even the aft wheels on the loco are rubberized. So the main loco does not pick up power, just the tender, at least on this Bachmann 2-8-0.
And sorry for your eyes glazing over.
Hi Paul;
I have to really question how none of the drivers pickup power, this almost 'drives me' to want to get one for that alone.. I have done that once (or 4 w/Diesels), when I did the whole Paintmask deal when weathering (Yes, my practice is to 'Chadley Rig'), the 9V to the motor leades & toothpic in mask before the weathering & dullcoat, & then peel it off later, should I remember...!!!! Could it be possible that such an effort was not corrected at the factory?If I was you, I would really examine the drivers & if they are not stepped (as in an obvious capture groove for a rubber tire), use an X-axto style knife to clear at least two wheels to provide some electrical contact & then test it.I think once those drivers start making contact you may have a real engine on your track.
But who knows, we are not there, I hope you get her going, all the same..
ChadLRyan Hi Paul; I have to really question how none of the drivers pickup power, this almost 'drives me' to want to get one for that alone.. I have done that once (or 4 w/Diesels), when I did the whole Paintmask deal when weathering (Yes, my practice is to 'Chadley Rig'), the 9V to the motor leades & toothpic in mask before the weathering & dullcoat, & then peel it off later, should I remember...!!!! Could it be possible that such an effort was not corrected at the factory?If I was you, I would really examine the drivers & if they are not stepped (as in an obvious capture groove for a rubber tire), use an X-axto style knife to clear at least two wheels to provide some electrical contact & then test it.I think once those drivers start making contact you may have a real engine on your track. But who knows, we are not there, I hope you get her going, all the same..
Well Chad, as I indicated above when tested with power none of the driver wheels on this particular loco moved. I applied power to all wheels in all combinations on both tender and loco. Only the tender wheels made the driver wheels move when power was applied to them via the alligator clips.
If someone else out there has the Roundhouse (which I thought was Bachmann) 2-8-0 model 84962 then perhaps they can try what I tried.
My bust. This is a Roundhouse which is made by Athearn.
I am really sorry for any confusion.
Paul_in_GA Dr. Wayne, I respectfully disagree. As a test I took two double-ended alligator test leads. Clipped one end of each to the rails. Now I have power at the other ends right? Then I set the loco to 1 on the CAB. I touched every combination of wheels on the tender and they all made the main loco's wheels move. I never once got any movement when I tried the same on the main driver wheels. Even the aft wheels on the loco are rubberized. So the main loco does not pick up power, just the tender, at least on this Bachmann 2-8-0. And sorry for your eyes glazing over.
Not a problem, Paul, but two wheels on each tender truck are insulated, and there shouldn't have been any current flowing through them. The drivers are insulated at their axles, but all should have wipers bearing on the rear face of their tires - this is why the halves of the weight are insulated from one another. I still think that the problem lies within the plugs: the drivers feed power to the circuit board through one plug, then it's routed to the motor via the other. I've had poor connections between the plugs and poor connections between the wires and the contacts within the plugs, and eventually removed all of them (I run DC) re-wiring the loco so it will run without the tender or with the tender and none of the drivers on the track - works great for tamping ballast.
Since you got no action using the drivers, my guess is that there's a fault within the plug that routes power from the drivers to the circuit board. When the loco stops in the turnout, touching the tender makes it work - there's a good chance that you're collecting current only from the tender, and for whatever reason the loco stops within the turnout, it's simply because two of those wheels momentarily lose contact.
doctorwayne Paul_in_GA Dr. Wayne, I respectfully disagree. As a test I took two double-ended alligator test leads. Clipped one end of each to the rails. Now I have power at the other ends right? Then I set the loco to 1 on the CAB. I touched every combination of wheels on the tender and they all made the main loco's wheels move. I never once got any movement when I tried the same on the main driver wheels. Even the aft wheels on the loco are rubberized. So the main loco does not pick up power, just the tender, at least on this Bachmann 2-8-0. And sorry for your eyes glazing over. Not a problem, Paul, but two wheels on each tender truck are insulated, and there shouldn't have been any current flowing through them. The drivers are insulated at their axles, but all should have wipers bearing on the rear face of their tires - this is why the halves of the weight are insulated from one another. I still think that the problem lies within the plugs: the drivers feed power to the circuit board through one plug, then it's routed to the motor via the other. I've had poor connections between the plugs and poor connections between the wires and the contacts within the plugs, and eventually removed all of them (I run DC) re-wiring the loco so it will run without the tender or with the tender and none of the drivers on the track - works great for tamping ballast. Wayne
Sorry about the misunderstanding Wayne but this is a Roundhouse product so it is different than what you describe. Only the aft driver wheels on this loco have rubber on them. All the tender wheels are powered.
Sorry, but I'm not familiar with that loco. Your reference to rubber had me confused, but I see that the loco has traction tires on the rear driver set.
According to the site I looked at, your loco picks up current on all drivers (except those with the traction tires), so there's a problem within the wiring from the locomotive to the decoder, I'd guess. As I mentioned in my previous post, it's likely that the pick-up is working only on the tender, and when it hits that turnout and quits, it's because the contact between the turnout and the tender wheels, for whatever reason, has been broken. Touching the tender restores contact, but the loco itself should be part of the power supply too. I'd check that wiring.