"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
QUOTE: Originally posted by mondotrains To answer your question, I just spoke to a fellow at Intermountain and he said they make the wheels for Reboxx. Reboxx, as you probably know, then takes those wheels and attaches them to various axle lengths. I think Reboxx must have about 37 different axle lengths and using the chart they provide, you can buy the precise wheelset you need for just about any manufacturer's car. For example, their chart specifies that for an Athearn passenger car, you need a 36" wheelset in a 1.035 length axle, which they have. Regards, Mondo QUOTE: Originally posted by cjm89 Does ReBoxx make wheelsets for Intermountain, or vice-versa?
QUOTE: Originally posted by cjm89 Does ReBoxx make wheelsets for Intermountain, or vice-versa?
QUOTE: Originally posted by Don Gibson QUOTE: Originally posted by michealfarley As far as a "blob" of plastic? Not if you take them out of the package right. It's easy to nick or cut the axle end when opening the package. Another thing about P2K is customer service. If you get a bad set, send them back. You'll get replacements! It will cost me as much to send them back as I paid for them. With an 85% (off center) rate, I'll just get more of the same - or do you REALLY think they'll hand pick them? Their Q.C. is obviously non existent.. Am I finicky about car wobble? YES! OrsonRoy and Michael: Borrow a magnifying glass, then get back to me.
QUOTE: Originally posted by michealfarley As far as a "blob" of plastic? Not if you take them out of the package right. It's easy to nick or cut the axle end when opening the package. Another thing about P2K is customer service. If you get a bad set, send them back. You'll get replacements!
QUOTE: Originally posted by DHarrison At MSI the metal axles will cut the plastic sideframes......Each manufacturer's plastic is different. ......if they (sideframes) were already metal, ...That led us to lube the axle ends. ...we've placed an order for a couple of hundred trucks of various manufacturers and designs too. David Harrison
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
QUOTE: Originally posted by michealfarley QUOTE: Originally posted by Don Gibson SOME FACT VS. FICTIONS: 4, PROTO 2000 wheelsets are only popular because they are 'cheap'. They have a 'blob' of slippery plastic on the axle ends to aid rolling that is often off-center. Umm................I use Proto 2000 wheelsets because I like them best, not cause their cheap, although it's a benefit. I have on my layout: Kadee, Intermountain, LBF, Athearn, Walthers, Atlas, and Proto 2000 metal wheelsets. The Proto 2000 and the Atlas are the best by far. It's not cost, it's my personal preference. As far as a "blob" of plastic? Not if you take them out of the package right. It's easy to nick or cut the axle end when opening the package. Another thing about P2K is customer service. If you get a bad set, send them back. You'll get replacements!
QUOTE: Originally posted by Don Gibson SOME FACT VS. FICTIONS: 4, PROTO 2000 wheelsets are only popular because they are 'cheap'. They have a 'blob' of slippery plastic on the axle ends to aid rolling that is often off-center.
Ray Breyer
Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943
QUOTE: Originally posted by AntonioFP45 JWMurray Jr. For those 100 wheels at $42.95 Is that for a box of all the same size wheels, or can it be mixed? Still, a very good price!
Jim Murray The San Juan Southern RR
QUOTE: Originally posted by DHarrison Great thread, read all three pages... At MSI-Chicago's Great Train Story our HO scale trains are run more in a week the. Any plastic wheel is replaced with InterMountain at the start. OEM metal wheels will be given a trial. There's a Metra train running on a visitor controlled loop track almost all of which is a superelevated curve. The streetcrossing simulations even wears the edges of the flanges. These cars now sport IM roller bearing wheels. Oh, how much running you ask...ten real miles per day. David Harrison
QUOTE: Originally posted by DHarrison Great thread, read all three pages... At MSI-Chicago's Great Train Story our HO scale trains are run more in a week then most run in a year. Any plastic wheel is replaced with InterMountain at the start. OEM metal wheels will be given a trial. Walthers wheelsets on their passenger and commuter cars wear out the axle ends in three weeks. They're the only places where we use Kadees, besides the 28 in. on the triple level auto carriers. Some might be aware of the problematic OEM wheels on the Athearn bethgons (2nd run UP) but the first run on the BNSF have just finished four months of nonstop running at MSI. A 24 car MDC train was sidelined as the metal axles have worn through the truck sideframes. We're now experimenting with bearing lube in plastic sideframes. Metal sideframes have always gotten conductive lube. There's a Metra train running on a visitor controlled loop track almost all of which is a superelevated curve. The streetcrossing simulations even wears the edges of the flanges. These cars now sport IM roller bearing wheels. Oh, how much running you ask...ten real miles per day. David Harrison
QUOTE: LBF wheels are metal wheels on metal axles and are rust colored so no weathering is needed. they come in 33" or 36" sizes. They are manufactured for LBF which is in Oregon, check them out on the web as they have other products also.
QUOTE: Originally posted by mondotrains You mentioned that you use "LBF" wheelsets. Are they metal? I've never heard of them. What does the LBF stand for? QUOTE: Originally posted by oc5855 Mondo, I have used a lot of LBF wheels in nearly all my rolling stock mainly because of cost. One of the members of the club to which I belong owns a hobby shop and cuts every member a very good discount and right now LBF has the best price, and when you have over 750 carscost is really a issue. I will say that I do use other brands also like Protos in all my McKean and Front Range cars and of course Atlas comes with their own. One problem that I have encountered with most wheels is that they need to be painted to dull their apearence. Nothing looks worse than a nice string of cars with those "chrome" wheels, so I have to take the time to weather the wheels. I like others have found that there is no perfect wheel set for every purpose. I have recently started to replace the wheel sets in my Athearn loco with Northwest Shortline 40" wheels and this has helped greatly. As far a track cleaning, at our club we have found that by nearly all the members switching to metal wheels and changing the wheels in the Athearn locos that we do not have nearly the problrm with dirty track that we had. The building that we are in is over 100 years old and has no heat or a/c on the floor we are using which is the top floor of a 3 story. For heat in the winter we are using a propane space heater whick has cut down greatly on our winter dirt over when we used kerosene heaters. The summer we still have a dirt issue as the only way to cool the building down is to open the windows and doors. We have tried most ot the methods listed by the other folks who posted replys with little to no luck, but the ATF method sounds cool, As for our way to do it which for us has nearly solved our problems is to remove the cleaning pad from under a track cleaner and replace it with a piece of masonite and just drag it around once in a while. A nothe club told us this and they have gone a far to make a couple of track cleaners out of dummy locos which they run in their loco pool. I know it is long but there is my answer, hope it helps
QUOTE: Originally posted by oc5855 Mondo, I have used a lot of LBF wheels in nearly all my rolling stock mainly because of cost. One of the members of the club to which I belong owns a hobby shop and cuts every member a very good discount and right now LBF has the best price, and when you have over 750 carscost is really a issue. I will say that I do use other brands also like Protos in all my McKean and Front Range cars and of course Atlas comes with their own. One problem that I have encountered with most wheels is that they need to be painted to dull their apearence. Nothing looks worse than a nice string of cars with those "chrome" wheels, so I have to take the time to weather the wheels. I like others have found that there is no perfect wheel set for every purpose. I have recently started to replace the wheel sets in my Athearn loco with Northwest Shortline 40" wheels and this has helped greatly. As far a track cleaning, at our club we have found that by nearly all the members switching to metal wheels and changing the wheels in the Athearn locos that we do not have nearly the problrm with dirty track that we had. The building that we are in is over 100 years old and has no heat or a/c on the floor we are using which is the top floor of a 3 story. For heat in the winter we are using a propane space heater whick has cut down greatly on our winter dirt over when we used kerosene heaters. The summer we still have a dirt issue as the only way to cool the building down is to open the windows and doors. We have tried most ot the methods listed by the other folks who posted replys with little to no luck, but the ATF method sounds cool, As for our way to do it which for us has nearly solved our problems is to remove the cleaning pad from under a track cleaner and replace it with a piece of masonite and just drag it around once in a while. A nothe club told us this and they have gone a far to make a couple of track cleaners out of dummy locos which they run in their loco pool. I know it is long but there is my answer, hope it helps