Hi guys. Well, got a bunch of stuff for my birthday.
First off, the new loco, an Atlas U23B, ATSF #6330. It will recieve minamal patching (just the letters AAT on the end of the long hood side), but I'm going to buy another shell to paint for the AAT so I don't repaint this one, because i know me, and i will. So, since my GP35 is down for painting (w/ my new paint), the GP30 takes its place, they're both the same size:
As you can see, this thing is a BEAST!!! And AAR trucks to boot, lol.
Also got a bunch of frieght cars.
And a new Tech 4. It sure beats my other powerpacks (old trainset ones):
Also got a bunch of other stuff. Here's the whole photo album:
http://s253.photobucket.com/albums/hh55/Packers_1/b%20day%2008/?action=view¤t=IMG_3220.jpg
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
Hey! I just restumbled upon this site and dont think Ill be forgetting about it again anytime soon due to the number of modelers on here with interests in the DMIR.
I read through a small part of this thread but its massive, Ill give a little info on myself.
Im 17, and I consider myself to be the BIGGEST fan of the DMIR before its purchase by the CN. I have a 20'x9' Ho scale layout in the works, along with a 9' extension for an ore dock. Its a large project and VERY slow because in the last few months most if not all of my money goes into my truck. Anyway, I reckognize a few people on here from another forum, Ill wait and see if anybody can figure it out. Ill toss up some pics when I figure out how to on here.
Sawyer, if you think that U23B is big, buy a SD45-2. The radiator on that just makes it look even move impressive.
Welcome Missabe Modeler! If you haven't, you should check out "Teen Railfan Place".
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/t/114249.aspx?PageIndex=157
I too am a big fan of the Missabe. My favorite RR is the Wisconsin Central, but I love the DMIR. I hope one day to have DMIR run through power on my WC layout. My next kit bashing project after my SDL39 will be a Missabe SDM.
Also, if you haven't seen them already, here are my two Missabe 2008 slide shows.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGqfcFDsqOs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUe1Y5O_eeU
My Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/JR7582 My Flickr Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/wcfan/
WCfan, yes I have seen your slideshows, VERY IMPRESSIVE! Im dmir406 on youtube, I asked about the ore cars. Im a little behind, havent had a chance to get up there this summer. looks like I wont be bak intime to see anymore Maroon locos either.
Thanks Missabe! I think the SD38s will be around for a little longer, CN doesn’t have anything to replace them with, yet! The 403 will probably be the last Maroon loco up there, as she, and all her sister got rebuilt and repainted, while she missed the painters booth! I also have seen youtube videos of your layout, very nice!
Well, now that my ACR GP7 is patched, she looks much nicer! All I need is new number boards!
Also Tyler, if you do patch your SDP, you’ll have the first official WIN locomotive.
I have figured out the solution to Tyler's dirty track problem. Put capacitors between the decoder and leads in his locomotives! When a loco stumbles on dirty track the capacitors will power it through that section. This would be only momentary so a command to stop could be sent once it reaches clean rails... Brilliance eh?
Alex
I havent been able to make a new video in a while, because my camera broke, and I cant afford a new one. I have a lot of progress to show, but no camera to record it on.
Hey everyone nice photos, I am going to be building my first ho scale layout and I had an idea quite some time ago for my railroad name, Henderson Valley Lines, does anyone know if there is a real prototype with this name?
demonwolf224Hey everyone nice photos, I am going to be building my first ho scale layout and I had an idea quite some time ago for my railroad name, Henderson Valley Lines, does anyone know if there is a real prototype with this name?
Google says there isn't.
Missabe Modeler Hey! I just restumbled upon this site and dont think Ill be forgetting about it again anytime soon due to the number of modelers on here with interests in the DMIR. I read through a small part of this thread but its massive, Ill give a little info on myself. Im 17, and I consider myself to be the BIGGEST fan of the DMIR before its purchase by the CN. I have a 20'x9' Ho scale layout in the works, along with a 9' extension for an ore dock. Its a large project and VERY slow because in the last few months most if not all of my money goes into my truck. Anyway, I reckognize a few people on here from another forum, Ill wait and see if anybody can figure it out. Ill toss up some pics when I figure out how to on here.
Let me guess, you're a member of the Gauge too, right?
WCFan, I'll hopefully be getting some SD70ACes, those things will be HUGE! Nice work on the Geep.
I have this project for my world history class, and were supposed to tell about Greece. So, im making a diorama of Alexander the Great. I thought that this would be good because I can use some of the stuff that I learned from modeling to help me with my diorama. I just realized that I can also use some leftover ground cover, trees, etc for my layout. Whoever thought that school would actually help me?
My Model Railroad: Tri State RailMy Photos on Flickr: FlickrMy Videos on Youtube: YoutubeMy Photos on RRPA: RR Picture Archives
Here's what I've painted. I handpainted them w/o masking.
Also, here's what I guess has now become what I will be building for the next few years:
Why no masking? It's easy to do with masking tape. I have to admit though, your job is one of the neatest I've seen with no masking!
Looks good, but you better weather that roof! It sure wouldn't stay yellow for long!
Railfan Alex Looks good, but you better weather that roof! It sure wouldn't stay yellow for long!
The roofs are usually silver on those type of cars. Might try painting the car yellow and the doors maroon, or vice versa.
Vincent
Wants: 1. high-quality, sound equipped, SD40-2s, C636s, C30-7s, and F-units in BN. As for ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, that's out of the question....
2. An end to the limited-production and other crap that makes models harder to get and more expensive.
Firdst, let me answer Tyler's question. I skipped on masking because, well, 1) the maroon covers the yellow in one coat, so I could clean up any overfall (which there was a little), 2)I trust my hand to be steady, which it was, 3) masking usually spreads the paint that falls against it (well, the tape I have for maksing does, anyway), and 4) I was too lazy to apply the masking.
As to Alex, well, the roof was weathered, but I painted over that, it was one of my railboxes. And Vincent, the roof WAS silver, probably shoulda left it that way, oh well, lol, too late now, we'll just say the AAT is a little different.
Thanks for the compliments guys, I'm going to see if I can paint on the GP9 shell w/o doing a terrible job, lol.
When you have natural contours its easier to paint without masking. I make an attempt to mask everything, especially the sides of the hoods when painting the walkways and sill a different color.
I'm finishing up my X-mas list!
I've already won a LVRC Boxcar with A line stirrups and whatnot.
Additional Items include... GASP... and Airbrush!
Also includes Scalecoat II Paints, Atlas shells and handrails and plows, and CCRR decals...
Masking tape is a must, even more so when airbrushing or using a spray can. I tried painting the walkways on my SW1500s the right color by brush without masking. I ain't going to brush paint or not mask again (except for weathing, which I really want that air brush for to speed it up); especially after comparing the walkways to the nose patches I did on my U28Bs.
U28B with nose patch:
BTW, if you go to a hardware store you might find a color close to the ones you are using. Thats where I got the black for my nose patches. I'm trying to find if they have a really close green.
Well I feel pretty stupid right about now. I was talking to Alex (GG) last night, and was saying about how he might get an airbrush. Well many of you might not know this, but I do have an airbrush (A nice Paaasche one too). Well I thought it broke a couple years ago, so I just put it away. Well last night I decided to take it out and look at it. I take her apart, and put her back together, and she works now! I found out that the part I thought that was "broken" just needed tightening. So now, I might actually be able to have a WIN locomotive!
hi im mike and i model the 1980s uprr
Mike! Got any photos of your layout?
Aww, Jordan, now I have to hurry up and get 1402 patched so I can own the first WIN locomotive!
Well, I know I'm getting 1 F45 with sound/DCC for christmas.
I also managed to save up money to get myself anohter. Just have to wait from the place I'm getting them from to get them. (Should be tommorow, also my sis's B-day)
Amazingly, my GP9 can be painted. I have a base coat of maroon down, just going to paint the yellow on like I did on the GP35, we'll see how it turns out. I will still be getting a new shell and such for the GP9, but this way, I'll have two locos painted in AAT colors, lol.
Also changing up quite a bit of the AAT history on the branch line thing and loco roster, trying to make it more interesting. also moved the startup date to march 31, 1992. Also varying up the roster quite a bit, no more SD70ACes. Road locos now are two SD40s and 4 SD35s. There are going to be three U23Bs rostered now, and all sorts of other changes. Got bored in English 1, lol. Also changing up industries on branches because it looks like my 4x8 layout will now become my ONLY layout, lol.
Ahh...The good old days where your railroad story/roster changes twice a month...
I finally got my Digitrax Zephyr back from being repaired, and I ran some trains today...
1701 can crawl slow enough on clean track (I cleaned the whole layout with a rag soaked with rubbing alcohol) to pull out the slack in individual cars... I replaced the front coupler with a Kadee with a longer shank so the plow doesn't get in the way of the cut bar, as nothing was coupling to it, and it works great.
I can't get 2306 and 3243 to match speeds, I'll have to work on that sometime (already spend a good 45 minutes on that tonight and tried everything from speed steps to resetting the decoder...) but they do run smooth alone!
I also have a few new projects...now that the track is (mostly) clean, I can start to work on derailing issues and a couple bad joints that need soldering...
TrainManTy Ahh...The good old days where your railroad story/roster changes twice a month...
hardy-har-har. this time, it changes because I have a GP35 and U23B that can run on a layout, and my 4x8 is pretty much the only layout my parents will let me build, so I had to make it more interesting, lol. And it is a shortline, lol. Well, right now, I need not be concerned w/ the whole road, just what affects the branch.
It also doesn't help that this will be a slow build, but i have all the track i need (except for the yard, but that'll be easy to get, just straight sections, lol). You know how I get when i sit on a project, as you've seen. But i tihnk I can stick w/ this (it helps that I can keep moving in a forward direction and hopefully get trains running by Sunday if I A) get the foam down, B) get wire, and C) get my dad to teach me to solder.
And my roster/story has changed 5 or 6 times this month, lol.
TrainManTy Aww, Jordan, now I have to hurry up and get 1402 patched so I can own the first WIN locomotive!
Well, first I need to find a SD40-2 or SD40 to paint...
Friday I get to find out what's wrong with my ankle...
I was in the WRJ yard office today while visiting the maintenance facility, and picked up this order...
White River Southern RailroadWhite River Junction Subdivision
November 26, 2008
Effective immedietely, no railcars are to be pushed Westbound over WRJ Yard East Switch A/D 1 any faster than a walk. This does not apply to pulling railcars over the switch or pushing Eastbound.
Translation: The east A/D 1 switch needs to have the points filed down, as some cars "pick the point" on it. And I don't have a needle file, or it would be done already... Actually, the whole east yard lead up to CP New Poland has a 10 MPH speed restriction, because of the nearby maintanance facility (There's only about 10 feet between the rail on the maintanance facility and the rail of the yard lead), track problems (I need to figure out what's going on and fix it) and it makes the mainline run longer.
Well, Digitrax got my busted UT4R, so hopefully it'll be here soon. Probably would have been better off driving there, since it only takes an hour and a half at the most, then waiting 3 days for the USPS to get it shipped 65 miles.
Tyler, of you used the same decoders in those U23Bs, they should run well together. However, I had my GP9s do that on me before I put the chassis from a sound one under the faster of the 2, now they run well together. That's where that PRR Geep came from. I'm hoping my SD9s will work out okay, since one has a new motor and sound decoder (I'll post pics of install later), and the other has about another ounce and a half of weight added.
Sawyer, soldering isn't really that hard when you get the hang of it. Just make the surfaces are clean and get the tips of the wire and the iron with a little bit of solder before you actually solder
Well, one has an Atlas Duel-mode decoder, and the other has a TCS T1...
Soldering is pretty easy, as long as the surfaces are clean. Unless the solder is a flux-core solder (it'll say on the roll) then you will need to apply flux to clean the surfaces before soldering. Otherwise it won't stick and you'll have loose connections.
That explains it then, Tyler. I agree that speed-matching is a pain,
I spent a total of 12 hours on my U28Bs and got nowhere (one with a DH163L0, the other with QSI sound They ran fine nose to tail, but back to back was another problem [yes, they were going the same way]). I spent 6 hours with my zepher, and got nowhere. Took it to the MR club to see what could be done with them. After 3 people tried for an hour or so each using DT400Rs, and spending 5 hours on a friend's decoderpro software with the 2 of them, I about gave up. Then the friend with decoderpor tried and got it in 10 minutes.
Maybe it's just a GE thing. Wonder what happens when my Alcos get running (whenever I get them decoders [TCS A4Xs] from 4nscale.com, it's been almost 3 months. They said they were supposed to come on the weekend, hopefully that right this time). I'm still stripping the shells (4 weeks)