Reggie,
Center rail is hot; outside rails are ground. Most do not wire both outside rails, especially if you will be using any accessories or signals that require insulating one outside rail from the other so that the wheels complete the circuit as they travel over the track.
- Terry
Hey Reggie,
You may want to wire the outside rails both for Common/ground. Then wire the center rail for power/positive. The reason for wire to both outside rails is for the TMCC signal strength. If you do end up having accessories that require activation by outside rail, just isolate that section. One thing to keep in mind, if you are using any metal bridges or have any points where the elevations cross over or run next to lower rails, you should set up a ground to earth wire at these points and connected to any metal structures the tracks go over/through. Again, this is a signal issue, and you can just have the one earth ground wire that completely goes through the whole layout. This ground is NOT connected to the same as the common from the TMCC or the transformer. Instead, you can either wire it to a metal plumbing fixture if you have access, or to the ground/common of a separate outlet ( the third "rounded" plug in the wall outlet).
Good Luck,
Dennis
TCA#09-63805
Reggie, I have the "Tips and Tricks" book that goes into building a control panel. They use Peg board and cover it with shelf liner. They mount some switches and push buttons right in the holes on the panel. In some cases, they would use thin, colored tape like architechs use. then, they would do a map of the layout on the control panel.
i thought i had that book but i dont. i'm almost finished with my control panal. all i need is the spdt switches which should be here wednesday. i have photos but dont have time to post , but i will post them when i get back from work on tuesday. have a great weekend all.
RIP Chewy - best dog I ever had.
thatboy37 wrote: i thought i had that book but i dont. i'm almost finished with my control panal. all i need is the spdt switches which should be here wednesday. i have photos but dont have time to post , but i will post them when i get back from work on tuesday. have a great weekend all.
Reggie, in the book, the spdt switches fit right into the holes of the peg board. He also takes 3/4" wood and makes a frame around the outside of the pegboard control panel. This acts like a recess so that the switches don't protrude out too far. You can also add small indicator lights to let you know when a switch it thrown.
hows it going guys. all is well on this end. i got back home last night and looked at my control panal, and some of the architect tape peeled off. i put it back on to see it stick for a couple of seconds, and peel off again. my question is. is there something that you can put over it to make it stay, or can i use one of those heating guns to melt it a little to make it stick, or do i need to just lay a piece of plexiglass over it and case it in as you said dwiemer. here are the pics as of now its not finished as i'm waiting on the spdt switches to get here from radio shack.
hope you like
Looking good. Make sure the surface you stick the tape to is really clean (it looks like plastic so use some Windex or something similar).
You can use an ink jet printer and some standard stick on labels to create clean lettering for your control panel. In Microsoft Word - go to TOOLS, and then "Letters and Mailings" - and then Envelopes and Labels - this gets you the label window. In this window you can pick Options and this takes you to the list of canned layout templates for all the labels available from Avery. This makes it very easy to make nice labels for your panel. You can get the blank Avery (or Avery style equivalents) stick on labels at an Office Supply store. Find the smallest ones and then you chose that label number from the options list. You will have to experiment to get the labels the way you want and you can also cut them to final size.
The label program in MS Word is set up for you to manually feed the label sheet into the printer.
You can just print the labels you want and not have to chew up an entire sheet. The "Print" field in the Envelopes and Labels window allows you to pick a specific row and column if you just wish to print one label. Do this and then peel off the label you want and you can use the sheet again and again until each label is gone.
Re the tape itself, I used pinstriping tape for model cars and airplanes from the local RC hobby store and most of it has held for several years now. You can try the plexiglass overlay (I have considered this idea but was put off bu the nimber of holes I would have to drill on the already assembled panel I have. You could try a clear spray (but this may not work with my labels idea - so put the labels on after spraying). I suggest you do a test panel and see what works best.
Regards, Roy
hey reggie,
just wondering if you had any updates. i am learing alot from your posts here. well hope everything is going good.
i haven't done any work since i posted the last pics as i have been very busy driving trucks, and delivering products to family dollar stores all over the southeast. then whenever i get home i'm pretty worn out. plus the wifey and daughter want their time. so that means the layout is put on the back burner, but i do do alot of thinking about waht i'm going to do next once i get a chance to do some work. i'm still working on the control panel as i have to find a way to keep the architect tape from peeling off the panel. i don't like to start another project until i finish the one i'm working on. as you will have alot of unfinished projects just laying around and none of them finished. other than that all is well with me and the family.
p.s. happy fathers day to all. my prayers go out to all.
Reggie, not sure what will make the architectural tape stay better. Is the room kept on the warm side when you are away? Reason I ask is perhaps that is adding to the problem and could determine how you fix this. If you can pick up some thin plexiglass as you mentioned, I would tend towards this and also pick up a grease pencil so that you can mark the plexiglass if you have any issues you need to address. Then, when you have tackled those issues, you can simply wash off the plexiglass. I would put the plexiglass right over the taped layout plan. Another thing you could do is to use some paint with a thin brush and paint your track plan on the white board that you have.
Let me know if you want to do it this way, or if not, perhaps we can come up with a few more ideas.
I am sending you an email through the forum, I tried your old address and it didn't work. Perhaps that was full.
right now the control panel is down stairs in the sitting area where it is kept cool. i left for a couple days came back and small sections of the tape had came up. i just pressed it back down it sayed for a day or two and came back up again. i was wondering whether to get one of those heat guns to try and melt it down then put the plexiglass on top of it, but i dont want to do that and mess it up. have any of you guys done it this way, and if so how did it turn out. this is really what i'm leaning towards, but don't want to do it and it doesnt turn out right. that would be time wasted in my book if you know what i mean.
I would not use the heat gun. It would be more likely to make the tape warp and lose any stick that it has. You may be better served with some type of glue. If you can get it to stay long enough, you could just lay the plexiglass over it and that should hold the tape in place.
Reggie, Did you get the wiring for your hidden track figured out? I came across the article in OGR that has it and can send it to you if you would like. Email me privately so I don't miss your reply.
how's it going guys. get to do a little work on the layout this week. for i had to take off work for a week to take of the little girl, as my wife had to go to germany for work. so its me, the little one, and her grandma. looks like i will get to finish control panal.
? what power rating toggle switch should i get and use to cut the power to a track. i know about the handles on the zw, and via tmcc but i want to have the extra on the panal. i have some of the mini toggle switches spst 10 amp rated, but i dont think they are strong enough. if they are could someone let me know that way i don't have to go to home depot. also if any of you have pics of your control panal and wiring could you please post some pics to give me ideas of how they are suppossed to look.
Hi Reggie! I think you could use regular light switches? They are really cheap - you can get a box of 10 for just a couple dollars. They'll handle 15 amps at 120 volts, which would be well above any kind of spike I guess? Maybe Roy or one of the other electro-wizards will pop in here, but you might want to make a new thread for just this question to get people's attention.
Glad to hear things are going well - wow, Germany for work! Very cool! When she comes back, if she asks how things are going, just say Alles Gutte, Liebchen!
Bob Nelson
here's the work i done this week. which includes finishing the small section of track that have 3 spurs, the control panel, stand for power supplies, shelves on the wall for trains, and dressing up the walls with a few of my jersey's and autographed balls, helmets, and jersey's of former teammates. this is what you guys will have to look forward to when you come and visit. tell me what you think. now its on to wiring of the layout will post when i get that done. hope you like, if not hope the next batch of pics work for you.
kpolak wrote: The layout looks great! Nice to see all the trains displayed!SO... How did minicamp go with the Falcons????Kurt
The layout looks great! Nice to see all the trains displayed!
SO... How did minicamp go with the Falcons????
Kurt
how did you know bout that. i didnt think anybody knew i had a tryout. it went great looking forward to the season.
Hey, Reggie, great display shelves. Almost like walking into a well-stocked hobby shop. Cool pigskin memorabilia too.
Let those other studs pull up to the practice facility in their H2s and H3s. You'll be big man on campus if you drive up in your 80000 lb 370hp Detroit FREIGHTLINER. Throw a set of spinners on them wheels. Impressive!
getting alot of wiring done. no pics yet. i also ended up going with a feeder wire every 8 to 10 feet, and using the push in spade connectors looks great so far. plus this is alot cheaper to. i would say i am about 1 and a 1/2 week away from running the first train.
? i have the dz2500 switch machines and i know i have to wire each separate, but once i have power to my tracks do i have to wire the switch rails for power or can they run off the power from the tracks. another way to say it will my engine stall/get power if i dont run a hot&common wire to the rails of the switch, or do i need to run a hot&common wire to the rails of the switch to prevent this problem.
? hey dwiemer could you elaborate on the part about the wire going under/over the tracks and if you have any pics you can post that would be great. about this topic see below.
dwiemer wrote: Hey Reggie, You may want to wire the outside rails both for Common/ground. Then wire the center rail for power/positive. The reason for wire to both outside rails is for the TMCC signal strength. If you do end up having accessories that require activation by outside rail, just isolate that section. One thing to keep in mind, if you are using any metal bridges or have any points where the elevations cross over or run next to lower rails, you should set up a ground to earth wire at these points and connected to any metal structures the tracks go over/through. Again, this is a signal issue, and you can just have the one earth ground wire that completely goes through the whole layout. This ground is NOT connected to the same as the common from the TMCC or the transformer. Instead, you can either wire it to a metal plumbing fixture if you have access, or to the ground/common of a separate outlet ( the third "rounded" plug in the wall outlet).Good Luck,Dennis
here's a few pics for you guys of the k-line sd70 pulling 2 double stacks, 2 die cast 2 bay hoppers, & 1 csx caboose. i actually ran the train on mainline 4 as i had 2 sets of feeders to hook up a trans former. so i got my 1st action on line 4 and it made a complete loop up and down. i got a video but dont know how to post it. now seeing this train run all that track. i'm thinking about adding back mainline five. i have not taken down the setup for it yet as i just envisioned a train running on line 5 in the opposite direction. i need 1 rh & 2lh hand ross 11 degree switch with dz2500switch box, and 20 pieces of gargraves track maybe 30. hope you like.
thatboy37 wrote: ? hey dwiemer could you elaborate on the part about the wire going under/over the tracks and if you have any pics you can post that would be great. about this topic see below.
Reggie, I have not forgotten about you. I have had issues with a scanner and have not been able to copy the information to send. I do have the articles and will send as soon as I am operational again.
Reggie, it looks good. Do you have room for a big trestle type structure? If your travels take you to San Diego, make sure you go see the museum layouts. Some of my best ideas have been copied from museum layouts.
Love those photos!! Keep them coming.
Congrats, too!!!
Celebrating 18 years on the CTT Forum.
Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..
Jelloway Creek, OH - ELV 1,100 - Home of the Baltimore, Ohio & Wabash RR
TCA 09-64284
Your layout looks great. It is coming along nicely. I remember back last year when you worked through the night the first couple days. Congrats on the baby by the way. I hope all is well. Also good luck this season. I hope you keep us posted.
The thing about Reggie's layout is its so big that you never can see the whole thing in any one picture.
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