Building a Shelf Layout

[lionelsoni]

Prewar 253 1-motor boxcab electric 2.0 lb
Postwar 623 1-motor NW2 diesel-electric switcher 3.5 lb
Postwar 681 1-motor S2 steam turbine 5.0 lb
Postwar 2023P 1-motor Alco FA2 diesel-electric 3.3 lb
Postwar 2026 1-motor Adriatic 2-6-4 steam 3.7 lb
Postwar 2243P 1-motor EMD F3 diesel-electric 3.9 lb
Postwar 2321 2-motor FM H-24-66 diesel-electric 4.4 lb
Postwar 2338 1-motor EMD GP7 diesel-electric 3.2 lb
Postwar 2360 2-motor GG1 electric 6.3 lb
Postwar 2383P 2-motor EMD F3 diesel-electric 4.3 lb
Modern 8701 1-motor American 4-4-0 "General" 1.6 lb
Modern Rail King 1129-1 2-motor Big Boy 4-8-8-4 steam 10.7 lb

[lionelsoni]

Prewar 253 1-motor boxcab electric 2.0 lb
Postwar 623 1-motor NW2 diesel-electric switcher 3.5 lb
Postwar 681 1-motor S2 steam turbine 5.0 lb
Postwar 2023P 1-motor Alco FA2 diesel-electric 3.3 lb
Postwar 2026 1-motor Adriatic 2-6-4 steam 3.7 lb
Postwar 2243P 1-motor EMD F3 diesel-electric 3.9 lb
Postwar 2321 2-motor FM H-24-66 diesel-electric 4.4 lb
Postwar 2338 1-motor EMD GP7 diesel-electric 3.2 lb
Postwar 2360 2-motor GG1 electric 6.3 lb
Postwar 2383P 2-motor EMD F3 diesel-electric 4.3 lb
Modern 8701 1-motor American 4-4-0 "General" 1.6 lb
Modern Rail King 1129-1 2-motor Big Boy 4-8-8-4 steam 10.7 lb

[SotaPop]

"Pathetic" is what comes to mind.  Over 4 years ago, I started this thread.  All I have to show for it is an outlet mounted up toward the ceiling of my home-office.  Parenthood is a demanding "career" which doesn't offer much free time, but as my kids get older it's starting to come my way.  Even if they are very small steps, I HAVE to start on my Shelf Layout.

My plan hasn't changed much - Gargraves 5-railed track to run both O-gauge and standard gauage trains.  I thinking 72 inch curves with no switches --- just a big loop around the ceiling of my home-office.  I want to run some pre-war Lionel Standard Gauge engines on this track where a nose-dive to the floor below will NOT be an option!

My thought is that I should snap a level line around the room walls for starters.  After that I'll have to determine the type of material to use under the track.  I'm thinking a 3/4" shelving board with 3/4" built-right (sp?) on top of it.  Seems kind of thick.  Then I'd put a trim piece on the outside of the shelf to cover the material.

I wonder if there are any Pros or Cons to completing the entire shelf before laying track or if I should lay track as I go?

As I think about putting the shelving up - I recall forum comments about "grooving" the shelf as a gutter for wires.  I suppose the built-right material can be easily channeled for this purpose.

I'd be interested in any comments or suggestions from any of you "Really Busy People" to help me make some ... any ... progress on my layout.

Maybe it's as simple as NIKE - JUST DO IT!

Thanks in advance!

[J. Daddy]

Just completed my shelf layout. I went to home depot and bought the closet shelf kits that support extra weight. they have the similar design to book shelf bracketry, however each bracket has a double hook to support the additional weight. up to 50lbs! The brackets vary in length from 4 inches to 24 inches! I used the 21 inch length brackets. I mounted the bracket supports every 32 inches to anchor into the wall studs making sure they are level with each other. What's nice is if you would like to adjust the layout height then you just unclip the bracket and raise or lower. Then I anchored the 6 ft by 21 inch 1 X 3 framed box section sitting on the brackets every six foot to a stud just in case the layout gets bumped. One six foot section sitting on 2 brackets can support the layout and a ZW! I was able to compete a 30 ft x 30 ft L section layout in 2 weekends and the price was 80 dollars... oh and if you want to have a 2 tiered layout just buy longer mounting rails and additional brackets... great for that hidden staging yard....do you know how to post pictures? I will send a few, I am only slightly computer literate....

[SotaPop]

J. Daddy - Photos of what you've done would be great!

I like the idea of the adjustable brackets.  That would give me more options for future modifications.  Here's what I found on the Home Depot website.  Is this what you used?

Those double hooks should be able to support the weight of a heavy engine ... and like you said, it can handle the weight of a ZW! 

I'm curious to see what your shelving looks like on those brackets and how you anchored it to the wall.  I like your "just in case the layout gets bumped" thinking!!!  ... because you know it's probably going to happen by accident sometime. 

I'm looking forward to your layout pics! 

[Anonymous]

  as far as a wall layout I would use 3/16 x 1 steel "L" brackets lagged into the studs for the actual support. these will then be hidden by the plywood road bed and any scenery you put on the wall. the steel will cary any amount of trains you run over them. just make sure to use one on at least every other stud. if you need to span more distance for what ever reason a thicker steel (1/4") can be used.  remember the foundation is everything. these "L" brackets will be 1/10th the cost of those adjustable bkts. here are some pics of a murphy bed style unit I am designing now

[J. Daddy]

That is them! I think I utilized the 31 inch long attachment beams. Use a stud finder to find the center of the stud and a level. I lined up the first one and only needed 3 2.5 inch screws to secure to the wall. Once the first one was complete the rest was a cake walk. With the brackets up, I built my grid base out of 1X3's by 6 foot long. I staggered the joining grid bases between brackets. I did note that once the brackets are snapped in they are an angle sloped towards the wall (very small) so I put a shim to level it out and drove a 3.5 inch screw to anchor the 1x3 grid base so again if bumped... it does not move... The best thing is, no legs to kick, plenty of storage and when I put that second lower level in for staging... no sight blocks! now where is that instruction sheet / link to post pictures....

[Anonymous]

 here are some pics of a murphy bed style unit I am designing now.

Looks cool.  One observation though... looks like you smashed your collection!

[Anonymous]

now where is that instruction sheet / link to post pictures....

http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/961809/ShowPost.aspx

Right off the front page!

[Anonymous]

that is a display cube made from a photo. although the rendering is 3D the photo of the layout is not. but you get the idea

[Anonymous]

I know, was just having some fun with ya!  Looks awesome... post pics when you start construction!

[J. Daddy]

Got it.... and I think I have figured it out.... thanks... below is my shelf layout in S gauge...

 

 

 

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[SotaPop]

I know, was just having some fun with ya!  Looks awesome... post pics when you start construction!

Given the murphy-bed concept ... I did find that ironically funny ... fold it up and flatten your trains.

But, one would have to admit that it looks very clean and decorative.  I struggle with that - nicely finished oak brackets and shelf ... or white veneer covered particle board.  Being that it's going in my home-office, I don't want it looking unfinished as far as the shelving material.

[SotaPop]

  as far as a wall layout I would use 3/16 x 1 steel "L" brackets lagged into the studs for the actual support. these will then be hidden by the plywood road bed and any scenery you put on the wall. the steel will cary any amount of trains you run over them. just make sure to use one on at least every other stud. if you need to span more distance for what ever reason a thicker steel (1/4") can be used.  remember the foundation is everything. these "L" brackets will be 1/10th the cost of those adjustable bkts. here are some pics of a murphy bed style unit I am designing now

Looks great and very clean!  Be sure to post pics as you build it.  I'll do the same.  Thanks for the photos too.

[kpolak]

Jimsiv...that looks awesome!  I was planning something similar, but was running into weight issues with the table, and detailing the drop down legs to look ok.  I'll have to research the Murphey beds.

Are you planning a spring mechanism to assist in raising and holding the table in place?

What modelling program are you using?

Please keep us posted.

Kurt

[J. Daddy]

Here is my latest shelf railroad :It will support a layout and ZW... with no legs!

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top view... 

 

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 still a benchwork layout... but I plant on adding a front fascia to hide the storage.

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 This system holds allot of weight, again no legs, and a hidden staging yard can be produced just by adding additional brackets to the bottom....

 

[Anonymous]

 Kurt,  the load will be balanced between the pivots so lifting won't be a problem. the main cabinet is anchored to the wall securely so no drop down legs are needed. when the table is horizontal the top end of the table at the wall will hit a stop holding it. it is all in figuring the pivot points and arm lengths. the actual build is on hold as I may be moving my shop out of the basement and making that space the train room. the program I use is for cabinet building and room design which I use for work, "eCabinets". 

[Jumijo]

Here is my latest shelf railroad :It will support a layout and ZW... with no legs!

 " border="0" />

top view... 

 

 " border="0" />

 still a benchwork layout... but I plant on adding a front fascia to hide the storage.

 " border="0" />

 This system holds allot of weight, again no legs, and a hidden staging yard can be produced just by adding additional brackets to the bottom....

 

 

These photos make me want to build a shelf layout - using O27 tubular track!

Very nice!  

[J. Daddy]

you know I have allot of 0-27 track sitting around... maybe I could modify to have an upper level with O-27 bridging over the S gauge American flyer... then I don't have to wait until X-mas to run my Lionel trains!

[Frank53]

does anyone else see two exact copies of this thread on the main page - one following the other?

[Wes Whitmore]

Yup, I have two.

Wes

[Anonymous]

DOUBLE YOUR PLEASURE, DOUBLE YOUR FUN. also 2 of the same replys

[Buckeye Riveter]

does anyone else see two exact copies of this thread on the main page - one following the other?

I do.

[SotaPop]

does anyone else see two exact copies of this thread on the main page - one following the other?

I'm seeing 2 too! ... not sure how that happened.

[Jumijo]

does anyone else see two exact copies of this thread on the main page - one following the other?

I do.

I do too.

I do too.

Stereophonic, man.

[laz 57]

YEP me too.

laz57

[Blueberryhill RR]

Yep, me too.

[Wes Whitmore]

Frank53,

Do you happen to have any links of layouts similar to your's with the "building fronts" and narrow shelving, probably with turnarounds on each end?  I didn't even know people did that until I began reading your posts.  I haven't seen many since.  

Thanks!
Wes

[Wes Whitmore]

I made some big progress on prepping the new room yesterday.  It's almost time to start doing some benchwork.  I'm also designing a shelf layout, so why start another thread...

I edited this post as I answer my own questions:

Where is a good source of building fronts?  Here's one! 

http://www.elfinmodels.com

 

So I'm trying to figure out the shelf width.  It looks like the boxed version of these buildings is 3.5".  A little deeper than I wanted to give up.  Not too bad though.  So for a rough estimate:

3.5" for the building

3.5" for the sidewalk and street

4" for the track with bed

1" to the edge

---------

12" for a single track and probably 16" for a double track.  These are all rough estimates.  Can someone correct me?

Thanks,

Wes

[SotaPop]

I haven't been to Home Depot yet to actually look at their shelving, but I'm leaning towards a shelving system something like this: 

Then every few feet, I'd run a support-rod up through the outer edge of the shelf and up into the ceiling using a toggle bolt.  I suppose a similar "U" shaped aluminum channel could be used instead of the fancy one shown above.

A con to this approach is that you won't be able to see the trains as well, but in the event of a derailment ... something would be there under the track to hopefully save an engine from nose-diving to the ground below.

A wood shelf will also provide some options for hiding wires too.

Any thoughts on this approach?  Pros ... Cons?