Building a Shelf Layout

[SotaPop]

This Fall I will begin the construction of an office shelf layout. I have an oulet positioned up toward the office ceiling and I will attempt to use a wireless control for speed and direction. The layout will be against the walls, except when turning. I have purchased a 5 railed track from Gargraves and want to make sure it can handle the weight of a Lionel train.

Does anyone have experience is shelving a layout? A couple of my concerns are:
(1) is the shelving strong enough to support the weight of my trains - or would it be a good idea to add support rods to the edge of the shelf projecting upward into the sheetrocked ceiling? What type of brackets would best be used?
(2) What would be the best way to build the corners of the layout? Would it be best to have a triangular shelf piece in each corner (which would allow for some landscaping) or would it be best to suspend the entire 90 degree turn. Someone mentioned sturdiness....I would think that a swaying layout would NOT be a good thing!
(3) the last thing I'm striving for is decorative appeal. I want the layout to look attractive and blend with the office decor. CTTs had an article about a gentleman who used plexiglas as a supporting surface, enabling him to see his trains better from below the shelf.

Any other suggestions on how to ensure my trains from taking flight and nose-diving to the floor below?

[SotaPop]

This Fall I will begin the construction of an office shelf layout. I have an oulet positioned up toward the office ceiling and I will attempt to use a wireless control for speed and direction. The layout will be against the walls, except when turning. I have purchased a 5 railed track from Gargraves and want to make sure it can handle the weight of a Lionel train.

Does anyone have experience is shelving a layout? A couple of my concerns are:
(1) is the shelving strong enough to support the weight of my trains - or would it be a good idea to add support rods to the edge of the shelf projecting upward into the sheetrocked ceiling? What type of brackets would best be used?
(2) What would be the best way to build the corners of the layout? Would it be best to have a triangular shelf piece in each corner (which would allow for some landscaping) or would it be best to suspend the entire 90 degree turn. Someone mentioned sturdiness....I would think that a swaying layout would NOT be a good thing!
(3) the last thing I'm striving for is decorative appeal. I want the layout to look attractive and blend with the office decor. CTTs had an article about a gentleman who used plexiglas as a supporting surface, enabling him to see his trains better from below the shelf.

Any other suggestions on how to ensure my trains from taking flight and nose-diving to the floor below?

[lionelsoni]

You might get an idea for your corners from my posting on "Help with layout".
Suspenders from the ceiling are fine when the track runs perpendicular to the joists; but you will probably not be lucky enough to have a joist at just the right location for the parallel tracks. You could use toggles with all-thread through the drywall, but I would not trust it.

[lionelsoni]

You might get an idea for your corners from my posting on "Help with layout".
Suspenders from the ceiling are fine when the track runs perpendicular to the joists; but you will probably not be lucky enough to have a joist at just the right location for the parallel tracks. You could use toggles with all-thread through the drywall, but I would not trust it.

[jprampolla]

Hi Sotaboy,
Have you considered an idea similar to the old-time "Murphy Bed" which was hinged to the wall and folded up against the wall when not in use, often behind closet doors? Off the top of my head, a sturdy long hinge like a piano hinge for attaching it to the wall, and perhaps a few simple legs for support, also hinged, would be a good starting point if you like the trial and error process. Just an idea. Good luck with your new project!
Take care, Joe.

[jprampolla]

Hi Sotaboy,
Have you considered an idea similar to the old-time "Murphy Bed" which was hinged to the wall and folded up against the wall when not in use, often behind closet doors? Off the top of my head, a sturdy long hinge like a piano hinge for attaching it to the wall, and perhaps a few simple legs for support, also hinged, would be a good starting point if you like the trial and error process. Just an idea. Good luck with your new project!
Take care, Joe.

[Anonymous]

I am also looking into this type of structure and was wondering if yu ever completed your layout? Did you build it yourself? Or use one of teh companies that advertises in CTT?

Bill

[Anonymous]

I am also looking into this type of structure and was wondering if yu ever completed your layout? Did you build it yourself? Or use one of teh companies that advertises in CTT?

Bill

[dougdagrump]

I made a very simple one from baltic birch plywood and birch wood, close to the ceiling. It was up high to keep uninvited operators from trying to run it. This is where I have my 45+ year old train I was given as a child. If you would like some photos of it let me know your e-mail address and I'll send you some. If you aren't looking for something fancy and frilly this could be it.

[dougdagrump]

I made a very simple one from baltic birch plywood and birch wood, close to the ceiling. It was up high to keep uninvited operators from trying to run it. This is where I have my 45+ year old train I was given as a child. If you would like some photos of it let me know your e-mail address and I'll send you some. If you aren't looking for something fancy and frilly this could be it.

[Anonymous]

Doug,

I would love some pictures. Can I email you a few questions as well? I am obviously looking for a very strong but lightweight wood to use, and I do not know where to start. How did you pick the baltic birch? Anyway, my email address is [e-mail]. Thanks in advance for the pics. When I have mine up and running, I'll return the favor!

Bill

[Anonymous]

Doug,

I would love some pictures. Can I email you a few questions as well? I am obviously looking for a very strong but lightweight wood to use, and I do not know where to start. How did you pick the baltic birch? Anyway, my email address is [e-mail]. Thanks in advance for the pics. When I have mine up and running, I'll return the favor!

Bill

[dougdagrump]

Baltic Birch is a cabinet grade plywood with no voids or patches between the plys so there was no need for any edge trimming. Just sand and finish, I used a clear polyeurethane finish. For the supports I used dimensional birch and gave it the same finish.

[dougdagrump]

Baltic Birch is a cabinet grade plywood with no voids or patches between the plys so there was no need for any edge trimming. Just sand and finish, I used a clear polyeurethane finish. For the supports I used dimensional birch and gave it the same finish.

[Anonymous]

Doug,

Sorry for the questions but woodworking is not my forte. When you say supports, did you essentially make small brackets that supported the shelf? If so, how far apart do you space them given the strength of the baltic birch? How did you do the corners? With one large triangle piece or just the wood to support the track and have it "float" between supports?

One last question. I am going back and forth over the use of a guard rail. I think I can make some decorative poles, then string light fishing wire between them. I always fear the accident and having a 75 year old train fall to the ground could mean some big damage. Any thoughts on that?

[Anonymous]

Doug,

Sorry for the questions but woodworking is not my forte. When you say supports, did you essentially make small brackets that supported the shelf? If so, how far apart do you space them given the strength of the baltic birch? How did you do the corners? With one large triangle piece or just the wood to support the track and have it "float" between supports?

One last question. I am going back and forth over the use of a guard rail. I think I can make some decorative poles, then string light fishing wire between them. I always fear the accident and having a 75 year old train fall to the ground could mean some big damage. Any thoughts on that?

[dougdagrump]

The birch brackets were made of 1x2 for the base and 1x3 for the arms. With standard stud wall spacing, 16" on center, the supports tend to vary in spacing. My brackets are approximately 32" apart +/- about 6" in some spots depending on stud locations. On the corners I didn't use triangle pieces, the roadbed is 3 1/2 " wide all the way around, I used a longer support arm on the same base and anchored it in the corner. By chamfering the base sides at a 45 degree angle you get a firm fit in the corner without doing to much damage to the wall. I didn't put any gaurdrails on mine, being in earthquake country probably should, I have the transformer mounted high enough that no one can operate it without me being there.
Did the e-mail attachments thru OK ?

[dougdagrump]

The birch brackets were made of 1x2 for the base and 1x3 for the arms. With standard stud wall spacing, 16" on center, the supports tend to vary in spacing. My brackets are approximately 32" apart +/- about 6" in some spots depending on stud locations. On the corners I didn't use triangle pieces, the roadbed is 3 1/2 " wide all the way around, I used a longer support arm on the same base and anchored it in the corner. By chamfering the base sides at a 45 degree angle you get a firm fit in the corner without doing to much damage to the wall. I didn't put any gaurdrails on mine, being in earthquake country probably should, I have the transformer mounted high enough that no one can operate it without me being there.
Did the e-mail attachments thru OK ?

[Anonymous]

Doug,

I just got your email. The layout is beautiful and looks very similar to what I am planning. I really like the birch wood, it looks like a real piece of furniture all the way around. I also liked your ceiling brackets. I take it you created those on your own? Very attractive and useful.

Many thanks for your help. I will keep your email on hand and send you some pictures of my layout whenever it is done. (probably another two months!)

[Anonymous]

Doug,

I just got your email. The layout is beautiful and looks very similar to what I am planning. I really like the birch wood, it looks like a real piece of furniture all the way around. I also liked your ceiling brackets. I take it you created those on your own? Very attractive and useful.

Many thanks for your help. I will keep your email on hand and send you some pictures of my layout whenever it is done. (probably another two months!)

[dougdagrump]

One more suggestion, I used "O" track with Woodland Scenics Track Bed. You might try the Super "O" with the plastic ties or maybe even the Super Snap Track. They might be better at reducing the volume of noise, its not bad now but might be even more enjoyable if a little quieter.
One other suggestion, which I wish I had done, take the dimensions of the room and lay them out on the floor of the garage/basement where you will be doing the fabrication. That way you can lay out everything and make any necessary adjustments before you start assembly on the walls, believe me you will get pretty tired pretty quick of going up and down that blankety blank step ladder.

[dougdagrump]

One more suggestion, I used "O" track with Woodland Scenics Track Bed. You might try the Super "O" with the plastic ties or maybe even the Super Snap Track. They might be better at reducing the volume of noise, its not bad now but might be even more enjoyable if a little quieter.
One other suggestion, which I wish I had done, take the dimensions of the room and lay them out on the floor of the garage/basement where you will be doing the fabrication. That way you can lay out everything and make any necessary adjustments before you start assembly on the walls, believe me you will get pretty tired pretty quick of going up and down that blankety blank step ladder.

[Anonymous]

I'm glad you told me that. At tims it looks relatively easy, but Its one of those projects that look like if you make a mistake, it will be compounded over and over, so the garage / basement idea is perfect. What is the woodland scenics track bed? From your pics it just looks like you laid down O track on the plywood. I'll do a search and see if I can locate what that is.

[Anonymous]

I'm glad you told me that. At tims it looks relatively easy, but Its one of those projects that look like if you make a mistake, it will be compounded over and over, so the garage / basement idea is perfect. What is the woodland scenics track bed? From your pics it just looks like you laid down O track on the plywood. I'll do a search and see if I can locate what that is.

[Anonymous]

I just finished a suspended layout in the bonus room over my garage. I suspended it from the sloped ceiling with 5/16 all thread and then also suspended display boards under it for some of the excess trains (no such thing) also put plexiglass guardrails about 2 inches high on the curves. the first section is 7 x 24 ..And when expanded later this year it will be 7 x 45. I made it 10 in. wide to run 2 trains at once. The wood is 3/4 fir plywood . if anyone wants pictures let me know.

[Anonymous]

I just finished a suspended layout in the bonus room over my garage. I suspended it from the sloped ceiling with 5/16 all thread and then also suspended display boards under it for some of the excess trains (no such thing) also put plexiglass guardrails about 2 inches high on the curves. the first section is 7 x 24 ..And when expanded later this year it will be 7 x 45. I made it 10 in. wide to run 2 trains at once. The wood is 3/4 fir plywood . if anyone wants pictures let me know.

[Anonymous]

I can't remember who said the garage floor layout, but I will add to it. Take a framing square or carpenters square check all of your corners, rooms are seldom perfectly square due to drywall tape joints in corners. make notes and take wall lengh measurements and then snap chalk lines on the floor then all pieces can be cut to fit according to the lines. I myself would recomend using 3/4 inch plywood with a solid wood nosing an 1 1/4 and step it above the plywood. bottom of nosing flush with bottom of plywood. then you copuld infill the top with 1/2 inch homasote for noise reduction. Home depot/lowes sells reasonbly priced decrative shelf brackets(wood). I am in the process of building mine, I plan to radius the front of a would be triangle to flow into the dimension of the wall shelves. I wil also cut buiding kits so projection is only an inch or more to add depth.

Carpenter Matt

[Anonymous]

I can't remember who said the garage floor layout, but I will add to it. Take a framing square or carpenters square check all of your corners, rooms are seldom perfectly square due to drywall tape joints in corners. make notes and take wall lengh measurements and then snap chalk lines on the floor then all pieces can be cut to fit according to the lines. I myself would recomend using 3/4 inch plywood with a solid wood nosing an 1 1/4 and step it above the plywood. bottom of nosing flush with bottom of plywood. then you copuld infill the top with 1/2 inch homasote for noise reduction. Home depot/lowes sells reasonbly priced decrative shelf brackets(wood). I am in the process of building mine, I plan to radius the front of a would be triangle to flow into the dimension of the wall shelves. I wil also cut buiding kits so projection is only an inch or more to add depth.

Carpenter Matt

[Anonymous]

Dougdagrump; Your shelf system sounds nice and do-able.,If possible could you e-mail me some pictures also. Thanks, kckc61 [e-mail]

[Anonymous]

Dougdagrump; Your shelf system sounds nice and do-able.,If possible could you e-mail me some pictures also. Thanks, kckc61 [e-mail]