nscaler711 wrote: DUDE I SWEAR IF YOU DO NOT SHUT THE UP WE'LL ALL HAVE PROBLEMS!!! I CAN BE AN NICE GUY BUT YOU DO NOT WANT TO TICK ME OFF!!! I wish everone else happy holidays.
DUDE I SWEAR IF YOU DO NOT SHUT THE UP WE'LL ALL HAVE PROBLEMS!!! I CAN BE AN NICE GUY BUT YOU DO NOT WANT TO TICK ME OFF!!! I wish everone else happy holidays.
From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet
Thank you dave im tired all i want to do is n scale not yell at RT but he does need to stop provoking others
question does any one have an proto 1000 sw8? i need help with mine it doesnt get enough electrical power
Army National Guard E3MOS 91BI have multiple scales nowZ, N, HO, O, and G.
Again, please, I'm calling for restraint. We all lose if this thread gets locked out. So let's knock off the threats, the spelling corrections, and all the other petty things that have nothing to do with N scale trains.
We're better than this. If not, you should be in HO!
Modeling the Rio Grande Southern First District circa 1938-1946 in HOn3.
dont appologize pcarrell he's being a butthead
R. T. POTEET wrote:Whatever!!!!Oh, and by the way. The proper spelling is c-o-n-S-i-d-e-r.
I'm sorry, I wasn't trying to upset you.
And you're right, I missed that one when I proof read my post.
Guess that goes to prove I'm not perfect, huh?
nscaler711 wrote: NOW R.T.POTEET I DONT MEAN TO BE RUDE SO BE QUIET AND STOP TICKING OF EVERY ONE ELSE ON THIS FORUM WE WERE FINE UNTIL YOU STARTED TALKING!!! Also on another note thanks for the picture on railpictures.net but thats not what i needed i need the font or santa fe's lettering ex. comic sans MS
NOW R.T.POTEET I DONT MEAN TO BE RUDE SO BE QUIET AND STOP TICKING OF EVERY ONE ELSE ON THIS FORUM WE WERE FINE UNTIL YOU STARTED TALKING!!!
Also on another note thanks for the picture on railpictures.net but thats not what i needed i need the font or santa fe's lettering ex. comic sans MS
pcarrell wrote: R. T. POTEET wrote:I am sure I am going to get beaten to death on this one and I should stay out of it.UNIONPACIFIC4018, I have some bad news for you - the most à propos label which you can be apply to an N-Scale steamer is "dog".Unless you are prepared to run double-headers - rare for steamers - you ain't gonna lug 30-40 freight cars up any kind of a grade. Period, quote, and a report!!!!NOTE: I know!!! Somebody out there has an N-Scale steamer which will lug 538 cars up an 18% grade!!! PLEASE!!! SPARE ME!!!RT, why so negative all the time?Double heading was very common in some areas of the country.I model only steam in N scale and I'm quite happy with it. I don't think I can muster 538 cars up an 18% grade, but I'd like to see ANY model loco in ANY scale do that! My larger loco's do quite well hauling 20-25 cars up a 2% grade with little effort though, and that's good enough for me. They run very well at a dead crawl with no cogging (i.e. they're very smooth), don't stall out all the time, and they look good I think. They're very quiet too.Perhaps your experience with N steam has not been as positive as mine. I'm sorry that is the case because there are many excellent choices out there for steam in N. The old days of N scale are disappearing quickly, and thank goodness! Some of those older steamers WERE dogs!My bigger concern though is why you seem so antagonistic in a lot of your posts. Do you not mean to come off this way, and then you wonder why everyone is ganging up on you? Have you taken some vacation time lately? Both from the hobby and from work?Perhaps you might concider it.
R. T. POTEET wrote:I am sure I am going to get beaten to death on this one and I should stay out of it.UNIONPACIFIC4018, I have some bad news for you - the most à propos label which you can be apply to an N-Scale steamer is "dog".Unless you are prepared to run double-headers - rare for steamers - you ain't gonna lug 30-40 freight cars up any kind of a grade. Period, quote, and a report!!!!NOTE: I know!!! Somebody out there has an N-Scale steamer which will lug 538 cars up an 18% grade!!! PLEASE!!! SPARE ME!!!
RT, why so negative all the time?
Double heading was very common in some areas of the country.
I model only steam in N scale and I'm quite happy with it. I don't think I can muster 538 cars up an 18% grade, but I'd like to see ANY model loco in ANY scale do that! My larger loco's do quite well hauling 20-25 cars up a 2% grade with little effort though, and that's good enough for me. They run very well at a dead crawl with no cogging (i.e. they're very smooth), don't stall out all the time, and they look good I think. They're very quiet too.
Perhaps your experience with N steam has not been as positive as mine. I'm sorry that is the case because there are many excellent choices out there for steam in N. The old days of N scale are disappearing quickly, and thank goodness! Some of those older steamers WERE dogs!
My bigger concern though is why you seem so antagonistic in a lot of your posts. Do you not mean to come off this way, and then you wonder why everyone is ganging up on you?
Have you taken some vacation time lately? Both from the hobby and from work?
Perhaps you might concider it.
modelalaska wrote:Rob, Is that motor oil? If so, what weight? My source on the transmission fluid said that is was plastic safe. Is the motor oil going to be safe for plastic? Thanks Peter
modelalaska,
Yes, the Mobil 1 is motor oil. You can get it at most auto parts stores or Mobil gas stations. Get the 10-30 weight. It is perfectly safe on plastic. I have never seen it damage anything. I use it on plastic, synthetic and metal gears and it always gets on the plastic chassis and bodies of my slot cars. I've never seen tranny fluid eat plastic but I know it can eat paint. I once soaked a F7 unit in it to remove the paint and it worked great. A follow up with a warm water and soap bath and the body was ready for a re-paint. Hope this helps.
Rob Newman
modelalaska wrote: By the way, I have an Atlas MP15DC (DCC onboard) I bought this spring. It was one of my best running engines. Now however, it squeals and is very sluggish. It stops immediately when I press stop where as before, the momentum in the DCC would carry it a ways. I assume it needs a lube job. But I am surprised, I only have about an hour may be an hour and a half total run time on it. My Katos (4) have much more time on them and they absolutely run fine and have not lubed them.So do I have a lemon? Since my trainroom is cool (40-50 degrees) I am sure I will need a lightweight lube. I was told ATF synthetic. Does that sound good? Do I just hit the exposed gears or will I need to disassemble and get everything? It sure would be nice if Atlas would provide at least an exploded view of the locos like Kato does.Peter
By the way, I have an Atlas MP15DC (DCC onboard) I bought this spring. It was one of my best running engines. Now however, it squeals and is very sluggish. It stops immediately when I press stop where as before, the momentum in the DCC would carry it a ways. I assume it needs a lube job. But I am surprised, I only have about an hour may be an hour and a half total run time on it. My Katos (4) have much more time on them and they absolutely run fine and have not lubed them.
So do I have a lemon? Since my trainroom is cool (40-50 degrees) I am sure I will need a lightweight lube. I was told ATF synthetic. Does that sound good? Do I just hit the exposed gears or will I need to disassemble and get everything? It sure would be nice if Atlas would provide at least an exploded view of the locos like Kato does.
Peter
I would not use the ATF synthetic. Instead use Mobile 1 Synthetic. I race slot cars and Mobile 1 is used by many slot heads to reduce friction while not blobbing up in the gears. Also remember that less is best. Do not over oil. You don't want any oil to get on or in your motor. Just my 2c worth. Others may have some good ideas too.
whywaites wrote:You want to see the energy costs here in the UK,Shaun
You want to see the energy costs here in the UK,
Shaun
Ah yes, us Americans often forget we have some of the lowest energy costs in the world. Sorry for the whinning.
Lionel collector, stuck in an N scaler's modelling space.
modelalaska wrote: pcarrell wrote:my Christmas bonus this year was bigger then expected. Ahhh, the private sector... No bonus in public service life... I am just hoping we get a little bit of a raise this year. Man, has energy cost gone through the roof too! Cost too much to run a heater in my train room. But life is good. Peter
pcarrell wrote:my Christmas bonus this year was bigger then expected.
You want to see the energy costs here in the UK, I use 3 ceramic greenhouse heaters to keep my room at a comfortable temperature and then use a small fan heater when I am in the room (if needed). The ceramic heaters cost less than a lightbulb to run. My layout room is an outside wood building (insulated & lined) and I went in there this morning and I could wear a T shirt and the outside temp was 23F.
Otto Ray Sing wrote:Dave what are some of the problems that you run into in modeling in the military? I know that you get trasferred quite often (hopefully not to a war zone). Are you able to build a layout? If so I'm sure that a large one must be totally out of the question. I didn't have to worry about that problem; I was in Viet Nam for most of my service. I still got Model Railroader magazine. It didn't last very long. Everybody there was so starved for something something to read, and especially something peaceful that it got passed around until it was nothing but rags.
The only two problems I've had are portability and space. Switching from HO to N solved both problems!
I have a 36"x80" layout; click on the URL in my signature if you'd like to visit it.
I did a lot of modeling even when I was stationed in Korea, though at the time I was between layouts. My deployments (Iraq, Bosnia, etc.) were mostly train-free save for Model Railroader, like you. I used some of the combat pay from Iraq to upgrade my MR equipment.
Thanks for your service in Viet Nam!
I run steam and diesel in N. Any performance problems I may have with any of my engines are my responsibility. The Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0 I got and am converting to a Pennsy H10 had a slight "chug-chug" stagger to it so I took the drivers out and reinstalled them in better balance. It's not the easiest thing to do in N, but it runs much more smoothly. I've also been thinking about a getting quartering jig.
But then I started, even in the midst of a major steam project, calling it quits on additional 1956-era stuff and instead focusing my new purchases on 1970s Penn Central and Conrail euqipment. GACK! The grass is always greener, huh?
The plan would be a dual-era layout with trains, vehicles, and certain structures to be swapped out for each era. Why such a dramatic change?
1. I'm not sure I'll be happy with having to bash a full steam roster. The first one is a challenge to say the least.
2. I remember PC and Conrail, not the 1956 PRR.
3. 1956 PRR was classy and well-dressed, but not as interesting as early Conrail's crazy collection of Northeastern bankrupts.
4. The 1970s were the last gasp of old-style railroading with cabooses, manual interlocking plants, and jointed rail.
I love them both, so I plan to model them both. Plus, my little N scale layout will be it until I retire from the USAF (another 9 years), so I'll have to do something to keep it interesting. Swapping out trains, vehicles, and structures is a good way to keep it interesting.
trainfreek92 wrote:How many of you guys like Intermountain N scale locos? I got one the other day for my bday. (Maine Central F3A) And it runs very good and quiet. Is this the norm with Intermountain. Honestly it runs better then some of my Atlas n scale locos. What about you guys?
Unfortunately I have two of the early units, tunnel motors, and they don't run very good at all, especially together. I have heard that there were some runs that did not come out so good. I do have a set of black widow F3 AB and they run great.
I will most likely buy more IM units in the future as everybody gets a rotten egg sometimes.
John
pcarrell wrote:Well, I took a leave of my senses last night. Seems that my Christmas bonus this year was bigger then expected. I recieved it yesterday and found myself (I'm not quite sure how this happened. The details are a little foggy you know! ;) ) at the local hobby shop with a large wad of money in my pocket. "Somehow", in the course of events, I ended up walking out the door with a new Digitrax Super Chief Radio setup. I awoke this morning to realize that this was not a dream! So,.......I guess it's to the test bench with the Bachmann setup, and hello bells and whistles!Do you think I can plead temporary insanity?
Well, I took a leave of my senses last night.
Seems that my Christmas bonus this year was bigger then expected. I recieved it yesterday and found myself (I'm not quite sure how this happened. The details are a little foggy you know! ;) ) at the local hobby shop with a large wad of money in my pocket. "Somehow", in the course of events, I ended up walking out the door with a new Digitrax Super Chief Radio setup. I awoke this morning to realize that this was not a dream! So,.......I guess it's to the test bench with the Bachmann setup, and hello bells and whistles!
Do you think I can plead temporary insanity?
I made a pre-bonus buy when I walked into my LHS a couple weeks ago. I just wanted to say hello because I haven't been there in about 6 months. I wasn't planning on spending anything, you know how that works right? Well anyways, there it was, a new Atlas GP-40-2 in SP colors marked at $49.99. I just couldn't let it sit there at that price. Online, the same exact engine, lowest price I had seen at the time was $69.99. Today I see them for $59.99 @ M.B. Klien.
My LHS gets good deals every now and then, and then he passes them on to unsuspecting visiters such as myself. Now, If I had gone in a few weeks earlier before the Train show, there were alot more of a selection at that price. Then I really would have had a problem. I hate impulse shopping, it's just that I'm so good at it. Because my teachers always told me , find something your good at, and then do your best at it! LOL.
Craig
NS2591 wrote:Mark: I do 1:55 Scale drawings as another hobby, and I thought of a RR name but I couldn't think of a paint scheme. I saw the Arrow on your PAs, and I thought that would make a great paint shceme for the a shortline on a pair of Switchers. I changed some colors to others and I modified the arrow I'll post the Drawing when I complete it.
Paint scheme looks great, and I like the name.
The inspiration for the arrows came from the slant of window/windshield of the PA. It may get retained when I start on the freight locomotives.
We moved back in mid-September and I've been spent what little time I've had for MRRing working on a trackplan. I've been battling a mental block that lifted in the last week or two. Alas, I'll be traveling mostly to Alaska for work the first 4 months of 2007, so any actual construction will have to wait. The good news is I will probably wind up with a decent track plan by the time the travel is over.
- Mark
RR Redneck wrote:Yes it was pardner. What does your frieght scheme look like?
Yes it was pardner. What does your frieght scheme look like?
Right now it is undecorated gray! It is still on the drawing board, but my initial thought was to use light gray (not undecorated gray) bodies and a knock off of the CSX striping (scheme prior to the Dark Future). I'm rethinking that and could use the arrowhead I used on the PA with no tail. Still on the drawing board, but the lettering will be black.
spindoctor wrote: In pursuit of deciding whether to switch from my 25 years stored HO trains over to N scale, I ordered a small yardmaster train set made by "Life-Like" with a diesel switcher and a few rolling stock. (It's for the tree, honey. Not for me....) My question is are all N scale locos this freaking NOISY? You can barely converse at normal levels with this thing running. It's not the track noise (which is also bad enough with its "Power-Lok" track). I cannot recall any HO loco that makes any where near this much noise. So, how much noise do N scale locos make normally? (and what's the deal with "power-lok" track, good, bad or just plain ugly?) Thanks
In pursuit of deciding whether to switch from my 25 years stored HO trains over to N scale, I ordered a small yardmaster train set made by "Life-Like" with a diesel switcher and a few rolling stock. (It's for the tree, honey. Not for me....)
My question is are all N scale locos this freaking NOISY? You can barely converse at normal levels with this thing running. It's not the track noise (which is also bad enough with its "Power-Lok" track). I cannot recall any HO loco that makes any where near this much noise.
So, how much noise do N scale locos make normally? (and what's the deal with "power-lok" track, good, bad or just plain ugly?)
Thanks
As to noisey locos, it depends on the brand. Kato, Intermountain and Atlas make some pretty quiet stuff. With LifeLike, it depends on the model, their heritage steam is pretty quiet. I have never had a Bachmann model that wasn't noisey. Athearn's SD70M was so noisey that I took it back to the LHS and swapped it out for a Kato SD70 MAC.
LifeLike and Bachmann unitized track are poor versions of Kato Unitrak. The Kato stuff has been the most reliable for operation that I have ever used.
Bob