Csxfan what ever you do do not file the grab irons that are already there......its immpossible to get the correct paint color. if any thing use a no. 11 or chizel tip ex-acto blade. i srcewed up on a CSX gp38-2 trying to super detail it. i filed the molded on grab irons off along with the paint i tried to get as close as possible colors. any ways you must have a steady hand along with some form of vise. try BLMA for detail parts
Army National Guard E3MOS 91BI have multiple scales nowZ, N, HO, O, and G.
CSX Fan,
Your best bet for N scale superdetailing info are these three sources:
N Scale Railroading Magazine
N Scale Magazine
www.Nscale.Net
I just don't know how hard it would be to install those tiny grab irons. I'll need to somehow file off the molded grabs, drill a few dozen holes with an incredibly small drill bit, pain the details, and then re-decal and paint the shell. Painting also involves matching the existing pain on the shell. I don't know if I want to risk messing up a brand new loco. If you do decide to detail your SD70, please let me know how it goes.
Does anyone know of some sites that show super detailed N scale locos or rolling stock?
I personally do not super-detail any of my stuff, but have seen many fine examples of people adding plows, wipers, hoses. AC and correct horns to many diesels. There also are quite a few examples of scratch built and bashed steam and diesels out there. I would probably be working on this if I could get my layout presentable! Your imagination is the limit.
My current excuse is that I'm waiting on some rail nippers to cut the flex for my 18" and 20" flex track curves.
Bob
Dave Vollmer wrote: Zandoz wrote: Dave Vollmer wrote:Also, this weekend I added a removable 3-track staging yard in anticipation of expanded operations. Here's how I did it (took just a few hours): http://kc.pennsyrr.com/layouts/dvollmer/Projects/staging.htmlOK....I'm gonna ask what will probably be one of those "Duh questions"...but here goes......With single end staging like that, aren't you pretty much limited to one direction opperation? And wouldn't that tend to get old quick?Well, it does mean some trains will have to back out of the yard. Others will have to run left-hand until they get to the crossover at M Interlocking. All part of the challenge, I guess.Sure, double-ended staging would be ideal. In fact, I plan to have double-ended run-through visible staging on my post-Air Force retirement layout. But for now, truth is, I don't have the room for anything more than what I've built. Even then, based on small housing at my next assignment (Kirtland AFB), I'll probably have to move to the garage with this.My philosophy is some staging is better than none at all. Plus, if nothing else, at shows it will allow me to change out trains quickly without losing spectator interest.
Zandoz wrote: Dave Vollmer wrote:Also, this weekend I added a removable 3-track staging yard in anticipation of expanded operations. Here's how I did it (took just a few hours): http://kc.pennsyrr.com/layouts/dvollmer/Projects/staging.htmlOK....I'm gonna ask what will probably be one of those "Duh questions"...but here goes......With single end staging like that, aren't you pretty much limited to one direction opperation? And wouldn't that tend to get old quick?
Dave Vollmer wrote:Also, this weekend I added a removable 3-track staging yard in anticipation of expanded operations. Here's how I did it (took just a few hours): http://kc.pennsyrr.com/layouts/dvollmer/Projects/staging.html
http://kc.pennsyrr.com/layouts/dvollmer/Projects/staging.html
OK....I'm gonna ask what will probably be one of those "Duh questions"...but here goes......
With single end staging like that, aren't you pretty much limited to one direction opperation? And wouldn't that tend to get old quick?
Well, it does mean some trains will have to back out of the yard. Others will have to run left-hand until they get to the crossover at M Interlocking. All part of the challenge, I guess.
Sure, double-ended staging would be ideal. In fact, I plan to have double-ended run-through visible staging on my post-Air Force retirement layout. But for now, truth is, I don't have the room for anything more than what I've built. Even then, based on small housing at my next assignment (Kirtland AFB), I'll probably have to move to the garage with this.
My philosophy is some staging is better than none at all. Plus, if nothing else, at shows it will allow me to change out trains quickly without losing spectator interest.
I understand the space issues...in fact that is why I asked. My attempts at coming up with a layout for my little diningroom table space, with curves broad enough for passenger cars, and some staging for both directions, have been very frustrating. I thought maybe I was missing some "trick".
Reality...an interesting concept with no successful applications, that should always be accompanied by a "Do not try this at home" warning.
Hundreds of years from now, it will not matter what my bank account was, the sort of house I lived in, or the kind of car I drove...But the world may be different because I did something so bafflingly crazy that my ruins become a tourist attraction.
"Oooh...ahhhh...that's how this all starts...but then there's running...and screaming..."
I got my very first N scale loco in the mail today. A Kato SD70M in the dark future scheme. I've always wanted to super detail some of my HO scale locos (wipers, grab irons, mu hoses ect.), but now that I see how small N scale really is, it looks like super detailing will be a lot harder than it looks.
Has anyone tried to super detail anything in N scale? If so, how did it go? I'd love to see some pics!
nscaler711 wrote:does any one know what decoder will fit in an Kato SD70M?Hey Dave have you been to Whiteman AFB yet?
does any one know what decoder will fit in an Kato SD70M?
Hey Dave have you been to Whiteman AFB yet?
http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?category=&scale=&manu=&item=245-DN163K1B&keywords=&instock=Q&split=30&Submit=Search
Plug n' play decoder for Kato SD70M
nscaler711 wrote: does any one know what decoder will fit in an Kato SD70M?Hey Dave have you been to Whiteman AFB yet?
No... I do a lot of work with the Army. My assignments thus far:
Maxwell AFB, AL (Officer Training School)
Keesler AFB, MS (Weather Officer Course/WSR-88D Radar School)
Fort Polk, LA (Army-support)
Deployment to Camp Comanche, Tuzla, Bosnia-Herzegovina (Army-support)
Yongsan AIN, Seoul, Korea (Army-support)
Air Force Institute of Technology, Wright-Patterson AFB, OH (Master's degree)
Patrick AFB, FL (Air Force Technical Applications Center)
Deployment to Baghdad, Iraq (Army-support)
Current: North Carolina State University, Raleigh, NC (USAF PhD student)
Modeling the Rio Grande Southern First District circa 1938-1946 in HOn3.
I started a thread about this, but it flopped:
The N Scale Middle Division has seen a few changes... I've gotten around to updating my web page with two recent projects.
The first is the "how-to" I promised showing how I animate my position-light signals. You've seen one video; there's another on the page showing the other signals. Plus, a step-by-step (sort of) installation...
http://kc.pennsyrr.com/layouts/dvollmer/Projects/signals.html
Also, this weekend I added a removable 3-track staging yard in anticipation of expanded operations. Here's how I did it (took just a few hours):
I also tweaked some of the description of the layout at my main page.
http://kc.pennsyrr.com/layouts/dvollmer/
Enjoy!!!
What has happened here. Have all the Nscalers except me died and gone to Nscale heaven.
I surely hope not 'cause it is gonna get real lonely down here without all you gals 'n guys.
Blue Flamer.
southernman wrote: Dave Vollmer wrote:Wow, what a great response so far!Cox 47, can't wait to see construction pictures.Peter, we need some pictures! 12x13 is an awesome space for N scale; I just posted a 10x12 PRR trackplan on another thread you may like.Nataraj, nothin' runs like a Kato!Roadeater, great scenery! I really like the rockwork.Darrell, you have a serious eye for detail. Good stuff. Tim's right; that's hardly "slapped together."Tim, how's that Code 55 working out for you? I considered it for a while, but wasn't sure my tracklaying skills were up to the task.Denny, great sites and great layouts! The SP is going to be a sight to see when you're done.Eriediamond, a fellow resident of NC! I'm here through 2008 before the Air Force moves me to New Mexico (or at least that's the current plan). Four tours in Vietnam, wow... Thanks for your service! One tour in Iraq was plenty for me!Here's a vanity shot of yours truly demonstrating what I think is N scale's main advantage... portability! LOVE this thread:)Dave or anyone else, can you point me to any resources for the track plan in the above pic? What are your dimensions? Very interested in giving it a go as a side project, nice variety there.And any tips on altering the New River Mining Kit? Thanks, any help appreciated Lee
Dave Vollmer wrote:Wow, what a great response so far!Cox 47, can't wait to see construction pictures.Peter, we need some pictures! 12x13 is an awesome space for N scale; I just posted a 10x12 PRR trackplan on another thread you may like.Nataraj, nothin' runs like a Kato!Roadeater, great scenery! I really like the rockwork.Darrell, you have a serious eye for detail. Good stuff. Tim's right; that's hardly "slapped together."Tim, how's that Code 55 working out for you? I considered it for a while, but wasn't sure my tracklaying skills were up to the task.Denny, great sites and great layouts! The SP is going to be a sight to see when you're done.Eriediamond, a fellow resident of NC! I'm here through 2008 before the Air Force moves me to New Mexico (or at least that's the current plan). Four tours in Vietnam, wow... Thanks for your service! One tour in Iraq was plenty for me!Here's a vanity shot of yours truly demonstrating what I think is N scale's main advantage... portability!
LOVE this thread:)
Dave or anyone else, can you point me to any resources for the track plan in the above pic? What are your dimensions? Very interested in giving it a go as a side project, nice variety there.
And any tips on altering the New River Mining Kit?
Thanks, any help appreciated
Lee
Lee,
Your every question will be answered at my website (the URL is in my signature block below). Enjoy!
Adelie wrote: Can most N locos handle up to 3% grades okay? Others say they reliably can, my experience is not really. I tested my locomotives a year or so ago on a 1.9% grade and found most road switchers could pull 12-14 cars up the grade. Some of the heavier locos (Intermountain FTs, Kato E8s & PAs and Life Like FAs) pulled 20 or more. The problem is weight, and most N scale locos have too little of it to be strong pullers. I've heard steam is worse in this respect, but mine is an all-diesel fleet.
I run only Kato and Atlas locomotives and have a max grade of 1/5%. [edit: thats 1.5%, not 0.2%. Sorry] My experience is that an N scale locomotive with 4 axles can pull 12 cars up the grade without serious wheel slippage, a 6 axle locomotive can pull 14 cars. Beyond that I have to MU them or they will spin.
Ron
Owner and superintendant of the N scale Texas Colorado & Western Railway, a protolanced representaion of the BNSF from Fort Worth, TX through Wichita Falls TX and into Colorado.
Check out the TC&WRy on at https://www.facebook.com/TCWRy
Check out my MRR How-To YouTube channel at https://www.youtube.com/c/RonsTrainsNThings
trainfan1221 wrote:N scale cars can be too light like with any scale, empty double stack well cars are a great example. Usually a problem to watch for is curves that are too tight. Long cars won't make it too well and lighter cars at the front of a train will get yanked off.
N scale cars can be too light like with any scale, empty double stack well cars are a great example. Usually a problem to watch for is curves that are too tight. Long cars won't make it too well and lighter cars at the front of a train will get yanked off.
Those deLuxe Innovations twinstack cars are the lightest of all...I did put Intermountain metal wheels on them and it helps a bit. I also body-mounted the couplers, which keeps them from derailing when reversed. Their Maxi-stack cars are made of diecast metal, so those run fine empty, as well as the Walthers doublestack cars.
We've been a really lively bunch lately. I finished the last of 3 passing tracks on my layout yesterday. Today I laid down one of the spurs, and in a couple weeks I hope to be installing torti!
In the mean time I have to take a trip to Pittsburgh for a Robotics Competition. I'm hoping while I'm down there I can get some NS action and maybe even see if I can get some shots of the ever elusive NS SD80MACs
N scale cars can be too light like with any scale, empty double stack well cars are a great example. Usually a problem to watch for is curves that are too tight. Long cars won't make it too well and lighter cars at the front of a train will get yanked off. I've also found that with certain types of cars, again I refer to my intermodal train,that you have to try to keep certain ones together or risk problems. And I have done all sorts of work on these, I simply have to set them up a certain way.
I was at a show in Allentown last weekend and picked up an NS -840b and UP Autorack (Yes I paid a little extra). Plus a couple of miniature NJ International crossing signals. Can't figure out how they work but darn they look nice!
Well...Garden Railroaders aren't the only ones that have problems with the Local Wildlife. I have a Skunk living under my layout...
<rant> When I turned 12 my parents decided that they would give me my own space to do modeling. At first it was gonna be a small corner of my dads garage. But he didn't want to give that up so they went and bought me a Garden Shed to build my layout in. For the first couple years that was great(and still is) untill about a year ago when I had a skunk decide to move in under the shed. The whole place reeked of the smell. Well here I am a year later and I have another skunk living under the shed. Today, I'm gonna grab some shots of my layout and then pull all the equipment out of there becuase I'm exhibiting with an N scale modular group and I don't want my equipment smelling bad at the show. </rant>
motard98 wrote: pcarrell wrote: motard98 wrote:Has anyone approached the moderators here to either sticky this thread or create a N-scale section? Yeah, they weren't too keen on that. Seems to me like it would make alot of sense
pcarrell wrote: motard98 wrote:Has anyone approached the moderators here to either sticky this thread or create a N-scale section? Yeah, they weren't too keen on that.
motard98 wrote:Has anyone approached the moderators here to either sticky this thread or create a N-scale section?
Yeah, they weren't too keen on that.
Seems to me like it would make alot of sense
See,....there you go with that thinking thing again! Mess ya up every time!
jwils1 wrote:I recently picked up a few N scale cars and some Kato UNITRACK to experiment with (Micro-Trains and Atlas cars). After using HO I was very surprised at how light the cars are. Being that light, it seems like they would easily derail. Is that a common problem or do they run pretty well?Also, a few questions:Are plastic wheels the norm or are metal available?Can most N locos handle up to 3% grades okay?Does the Rix pick work best for uncoupling? With the cars being so light it seem that this could easily throw them of the track if one is not careful.I have one of the Kato uncoupling magnets but the top surface sets a bit below the top rail so it doesn't spread the couplers like it should. Do the Micro-Trains top of track magnets work better? And do they fit on Kato UNITRACK? I tried one of my HO under the track magnets and they really pop the couplers open nicely.Which code and type of track would be best for a 74 year old beginner? I've read of some of your problems with expansion and contraction so that's why I was thinking that UNITRACK might be best for me. What do you think?
I recently picked up a few N scale cars and some Kato UNITRACK to experiment with (Micro-Trains and Atlas cars). After using HO I was very surprised at how light the cars are. Being that light, it seems like they would easily derail. Is that a common problem or do they run pretty well?
Also, a few questions:
Atlas/MTL cars are nearly the best in Nscale. Other brands can be made to run well. Depends on QC of the trackwork & locos. Atlas/Kato make the best locos.
1)Some LL cars use chemically blackened metal wheels. Old cars use shiny metal wheels. Keep any wheels clean!
2) 3% grades are steep for any scale. Sets of cab units (E's, F's) etc do best. GP's don't fare as well. SW's may be lucky to pull 10 cars on flat ground. You will need mutiple units of anything to pull a train up that 3% grade.
3)The Rix pick is good. You can use a skewer or a small screwdriver.
4) May depend on how strong that magnet is. Be careful placing it in mainline track if you don't want unintended uncoupling. You could keep a pick in that location.
5) Kato Unitrack is excellent plastic track, nearly bulletproof. It is code 80. Atlas code 80 has been the Ntrak standard for many years. You can't go wrong with 30 years of practice! You may want to paint it to make it look better (cut the shiney Lionel look). Code 55 is smaller, looks closer to prototype. Your choice, your RR! Welcome to Normal Scale!
PS: Check the web for places like Toy Train Heaven in PA that has deals on Unitrack. Let the net guide you to reliable Etailers. Bring your questions over to Nscale forums like TrainBoard, Atlas etc!
Precisely why I'm sure most of us subscribe to N Scale Railroading
http://www.nscalerailroadn.com/
This forum is made by MODEL RAILROADER MAGAZINE...Like they're gonna do anything special for N-scalers...