Help Wanted, Starting my own model railroad.

[Anonymous]

Ok, here is my new thread and I want only those willing to help me to reply. Do not turn this into another flame war and get it closed. This is a PUBLIC forum. Thank you

I used to have a model railroad when I was a child that my father built for me. I now have a home of own and I am about to start my own model railroad. I have yet to build my table (benchwork) but I know already the space, dimensions, it will occupy. I am go to do HO scale, I want to incorporate DCC technology into my railroad, I plan on using Code 83 track, electric turnouts, the late 50’s early 60’s is the time era I’m wanting to do. I still have some rolling stock and engines from my childhood by they are analog engines and really don’t work

The help I would appreciate from those of you kind enough and willing to help is the following.

What are good manufactures for DCC, engines, rolling stock, track, scenery objects. I’d like to see some links of other peoples model railroads so I can see what’s all possible out there for me, what all can be done, help give me ideas and options. After I get my table built, what’s the next logic step I should take, etc…

If you need to ask me questions to better help me, please ask. I want to learn, I want a cool model railroad, it was fun when I was a kid and I want to get into again and it be fun.

So please if your willing, help me and keep this thread on topic.

Thank you.

[Anonymous]

OK.

For DCC Systems. North Coast Engineering, Lenze, and Digitrax are all highly reccomended. I have the Digitrax system myself and find it highly relaiable and very flexable. And user Freindly.

Good Locomotives You can't go wrong with the following.

Proto 2000/1000
Atlas
Stewart Hobbies (A Division of Bowser)
Bachmann Spectrum
Athearn
Walthers
recent production Rivorossi
and while I have no personal expereince I hear IHC comes highly reccomended.

For your Code 83 Track. While there are many suppliers of Flex Track. Atlas Turnouts are the easyest to install. Other brands have to have special complicated wiring That just make getting a reliable track arrangement that much more of a pain in the rear.

Most of the building kits that are out there are pretty good. And Woodland Scenics has you covered for scenery.

Might I reccomend you purchase the book HO Railroad From Set to Scenery and that will walk you through all the steps of building a model railroad on an 8' X8' layout.

James

[trainfreek92]

[#welcome][#welcome] No clue on DCC but for Engines Atlas is wonderful. Katos are very good runners (in N scale any way) BLI is expensive. Athearn is pretty cheap but is ok for the price. Proto is good to. Rolling stock Atlas Athearn. design a track plan first. then build the table,lay the track,wire it up,scenery. Atlas offers a free track planning program at www.atlasrr.com
Tim

[RoyalOaker]

It sounds to me like the first thing you need to do is look at some layouts, There is a lot of info on what type of layouts to build. If you have an LHS near you, You should pick up a good book about layout planning. I am sure someone here can recomend one.

I suggest that this should be your first step because if you build your table before you know what type of layout you want, you may end up re-building.

You may want to take some time to read posts. This question you have asked comes up maybe once per week and there are great answers attached to most of those posts. I spend most of my time on this forum reading.

You can find posts here on what people think are the best DCC systems, Best engines, Best metal wheel and couplers. Best internet suppliers, best LHS's, etc.. you get the idea.

Good luck and enjoy the hobby.

[railroadyoshi]

Hello.

I'm not sure if you saw my previous post in your first thread, but I don't think I have the patience to retype it.[8D]

My biggest recommendations are still to READ READ READ.

When you start your railroad, you will probably want to focus on a prototype and era that you paticularly like.

Some tips for choosing one:
Was there a paticular railroad that ran near you when you were younger?
Is there any now?


Some Locomotive Brands I paticularly like:
P2k
Athearn RTR

Some Rolling stock brands I paticularly like:
Athearn BB
Accurail
I prefer these mainly for the value and price.

[rolleiman]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Lord_Beelzebub

Ok, here is my new thread and I want only those willing to help me to reply. Do not turn this into another flame war and get it closed. This is a PUBLIC forum. Thank you

Yes it is and you're welcome but remember, just like any other public space there are [censored]

QUOTE:
I used to have a model railroad when I was a child that my father built for me. I now have a home of own and I am about to start my own model railroad. I have yet to build my table (benchwork) but I know already the space, dimensions, it will occupy. I am go to do HO scale, I want to incorporate DCC technology into my railroad, I plan on using Code 83 track, electric turnouts, the late 50’s early 60’s is the time era I’m wanting to do. I still have some rolling stock and engines from my childhood by they are analog engines and really don’t work

So you've chosen an era that sets you into early / middle diesels. 4 axle GP units, F units, some 6 axle GP and SD units.. Steam was all but gone by then but some were still running on small shortlines and excursion type runs.

Where you go from there is strictly up to you.. Stewart, in my opinion, makes some of the finest end of transition era diesels out there (F units, switchers, etc).. They aren't heavy on detail but what they lack in detail the make up for in performance. Of course you can always Add detail.. Lifelike is another.. I know you may be thinking lifelike of old = junk, not true anymore. They are currently owned by Walthers (http://www.walthers.com), just make sure you are looking at the proto lines. Bachman Spectrum is another good choice.. Usually relatively inexpensive and make diesels to fit your era.. If you were going more modern, I'd suggest Kato but they specialize more in the modern day stuff. Not to say you can't go with them but.. Of course there's the old staple, Athearn but to find some of thier less expensive stuff, you may have to go used.. Thier Genesis line of diesels (F units anyway) are top-notch in the detail department. Intermountain.. Did I miss any?? Oh yes, Broadway Limited Imports (BLI)... SOUND!! Sweet! Especially with DCC.. Which brings me to the next subject...

Most new market locos these days are DCC ready.. That means they are ready to drop a decoder into without much if any modification. If you can solder some wires, you're 90% there.. The other 10% is just the confidence to tackle the task. As to a system, Joe Fugate has set up a couple threads on choosing a DCC system. I also recommend seeking out the DCC Throttle Shootout thread.. All contain great information.

QUOTE:
The help I would appreciate from those of you kind enough and willing to help is the following.

What are good manufactures for DCC, engines, rolling stock, track, scenery objects. I’d like to see some links of other peoples model railroads so I can see what’s all possible out there for me, what all can be done, help give me ideas and options. After I get my table built, what’s the next logic step I should take, etc…

If you need to ask me questions to better help me, please ask. I want to learn, I want a cool model railroad, it was fun when I was a kid and I want to get into again and it be fun.

So please if your willing, help me and keep this thread on topic.

Thank you.

The above and the rest of my answers are contained in this little clinic I've set up for beginners such as yourself..

http://www.rolleiman.com/trains/clinic2p1.html

Since you asked, My MRR website is linked at the bottom of all my posts.

Welcome and good luck..

Jeff

[Anonymous]

Mrc command & athrean genisis

[cwclark]

I'm a DC guy so the DCC is not my thing but athearn is a good choice for begginers and for the money a good product..the detailing isn't as good as say atlas or proto but they will meet most needs...be sure you purchase the DCC ready stuff and not the blue box..you can purchase blue box locomotives but my understanding is that you have to disassemble the motor and insulate it which is not an easy task with athearn equipment so dcc ready like the genisess line should work...I prefer shinohara turnouts (known as walther's code 83 since you are doing code 83..shinohara makes the walther's code 83 turnout) with tortoise under the table switch machines driven by DPDT switches...

[Anonymous]

THANK YOU....AWSOME!!!.

I'm going to print this all out and do further reseach. I've reached the age where I don't do too many things without doing so good research and knowing what I'm getting myself into. All of you that replied so far I thank you very very much in your help, suggestions and opinions. I like the look and style of the BNSF engines, but my scene I'm trying to do is midwestern US. I live in Illinois and the train engines I see mostly the operate in this area is Northfolk Southern. So I'm not opposed to using them. My plan for my model railroad is to have a decent railyard, (not too big), a town of the era, and possibly a farm on the outskirts with a grain elevator, livestock pens. Reasons for the trains to go there. The bridges are my transition point between the town and farm. I've been on Walthers website and have written down buildings that go with my era and theme. I hope this give you all some kind of visualization on what I'm thinking to do. It's not going to be modeled after a specific town or place in real life, just a general freelance thing of the area from that time period.
Ok, since I haven't even built my table yet I guess what I really want to know first is, is there any specific type of plywood to use for the surface?? Is one kind better to use than another?

One thing I know I want to do is have elavations off the table, to have bridges/tresils. I was thinking of having them go over a stream. How do you elevate the track up?? My dad use to take a jigsaw and cut the plywood along each side of track and slowly raise it up. Is there other options instead of doing that?? What do you do with the gap that is them made?? I can't find illustrations or documentation that explains how to do this. It's probably been dicusessed in these forums, if so and you know exactly where there at, can anyone post the link to them??

Like I said I'm am a newcomer to the hobby, and I am very excited about getting started and getting into this so you can imagine I have a ton of questions, some basic things I already know.

Please continue providing me help, I'm lovin it so far and it's greatly appricated.

[jfugate]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Student of Big Sky Blue

OK.

For DCC Systems. North Coast Engineering, Lenze, and Digitrax are all highly reccomended. I have the Digitrax system myself and find it highly relaiable and very flexable. And user Freindly.

James

James, good list, but you missed EasyDCC, also a great system and they have the closest of any system to a universal throttle with their wireless system that works with NCE or Lenz as well as EasyDCC.

[SpaceMouse]

Unless you are made of money--and if you are I know a cause you can donate to--I would hold off spending anything until you get a clear focus of where you are heading. You don't want to buy a bunch of stuff only to realize that you interest are slightly different then they were at this point.

A good place to start is Track Planning for Realistic Operations by John Armstrong. IT will get you thinking about your "givens and druthers." Another thing I suggest new people read is "Why Waste Space on a 4x8" by Byron Henderson, a member here and a professional layout designer. http://home.earthlink.net/~mrsvc/id28.html

[jfugate]

Proto 2000 locos have been mentioned, just thought you should know some of my experiences since I've been using P2K locos for over 12 years and they have gotten heavy use on my layout. Over the same period of time I have also used Kato and Atlas locos.

The P2K locos (I'm talking diesels here) look great, and run pretty good out of the box. However, they age poorly and develop many maintenance issues over time.

My Kato and Atlas fleets (I have over 60 locos) all run, and run, and run with very few maintenance issues. If I have to take a loco to the workbench for maintenance, 9 out of 10 times it's a P2K loco.

Don't know how the P2K steam locos do, but the SD9 and GP9 diesels fall apart with heavy use on an operationally-oriented layout.

[Icefoot]

Well said, James!

I would add a strong recommendation to use flex track instead of sectional track. I am building an HO scale layout using Atlas Code83 sectional track and Code83 Snap-Switches. The sectional track went together quickly without any cutting tools needed, but it was harder to get straight sidings and flowing curves with all the rail joints involved. I would use flex track with the numbered (#4, #6, etc) turnouts if I had to do it over. Fewer rail joints to solder and no ugly switch machines (which will be replaced eventually). The link below should provide some idea of how it looks.

A bit of advice about trackwork: take your time. Don't be in a hurry to get track laid. Work steadily but don't ru***hings. Attention to detail here will pay huge dividends later when you start running trains. Getting in a hurry to put the track down leads to oversights that create havoc with keeping trains on the rails. And that is very frustrating.

Here are some pictures of the Atlas sectional track in action:

http://modelrr.expertdesigngroup.com/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId=74

Mark Wilson

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by SpaceMouse

Unless you are made of money--and if you are I know a cause you can donate to--I would hold off spending anything until you get a clear focus of where you are heading. You don't want to buy a bunch of stuff only to realize that you interest are slightly different then they were at this point.

A good place to start is Track Planning for Realistic Operations by John Armstrong. IT will get you thinking about your "givens and druthers." Another thing I suggest new people read is "Why Waste Space on a 4x8" by Byron Henderson, a member here and a professional layout designer. http://home.earthlink.net/~mrsvc/id28.html

Thank you SpaceMouse, that's also what I was wanting to know. I have a couple 'how to' books already but suggestions on others that I should read is great too. I have a clear focus on the deminsions of my table, how it's going to be when complete, the surface area I'll have to work with. I have a clear focus on the time era I want to do, and a pretty close focus on the buildings and scenery to accompli***hat. What is not clear to me is what all I have available to me. For instance, I've read a little on DCC technology to have a general idea what it does, but don't know what all it can do, I don't know how to wire for anything like that.

I'm not going into this blindly, I know I have alot to learn and research before I start laying track. which is why I joined these forums to see help. The one thing I can do without knowing anything else is to build my table cause I know where it has to fit and the over all look I want it to be.

[simon1966]

You mention your older trains you still have. If you have the slightest interest, sentimental or otherwise, in running these go to the LHS with some of them and see if they will roll smoothly on code 83 track. I have serveral trains from my childhood that I like to run and they will only run well on code 100 track due to the deeper flanges.

[rolleiman]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Lord_Beelzebub

THANK YOU....AWSOME!!!.

I'm going to print this all out and do further reseach. I've reached the age where I don't do too many things without doing so good research and knowing what I'm getting myself into. All of you that replied so far I thank you very very much in your help, suggestions and opinions. I like the look and style of the BNSF engines, but my scene I'm trying to do is midwestern US. I live in Illinois and the train engines I see mostly the operate in this area is Northfolk Southern. So I'm not opposed to using them.

Both BNSF and NS didn't come into existance until the late 1980s or early 1990s.. So Now you've moved into the later era for road names.. Nothing Wrong with that though. If you keep it prototypical (realistic) you've ruled out a lot of rolling stock too.. Anything with a roof walk on it for instance.. Cabooses (or cabeese, you choose) are pretty much gone.. Though I know that NS runs one on a local out of Oakwood yard 2 blocks from my house (outside of Detroit). I think both BNSF and NS have websites you can go to and get some general info. Of course there are probably hundreds of other sites dedicated to the names as well.

If you want to get some cool info for track planning ideas, nothing better than overhead photos of the real thing..

Just for grins and giggles, here are the coordinates for the throat of the yard near my home..

http://www.terraserver-usa.com/

-83.18996, 42.27286

Jeff

edit: Here's a slick software package that'll assist you in designing your layout.. Be sure to register it (free) and go through the tutorial..

http://sillub.com/

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jfugate
James, good list, but you missed EasyDCC, also a great system and they have the closest of any system to a universal throttle with their wireless system that works with NCE or Lenz as well as EasyDCC.

I did not know that EasyDCC was still in business. Does it still come as a kit you put together?

James

[tstage]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Student of Big Sky Blue

QUOTE: Originally posted by jfugate
James, good list, but you missed EasyDCC, also a great system and they have the closest of any system to a universal throttle with their wireless system that works with NCE or Lenz as well as EasyDCC.

I did not know that EasyDCC was still in business. Does it still come as a kit you put together?

James

Nope. Unfortunately, that's not an option anymore. All their stuff is already pre-built.

Tom

[jfugate]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Student of Big Sky Blue

QUOTE: Originally posted by jfugate
James, good list, but you missed EasyDCC, also a great system and they have the closest of any system to a universal throttle with their wireless system that works with NCE or Lenz as well as EasyDCC.

I did not know that EasyDCC was still in business. Does it still come as a kit you put together?

James

Yep, they're a going concern, apparently doing very well, and often have one of the largest booths at the National Train show.

Check out their web site: http://www.cvpusa.com/

The company's actually known as CVP Products and they keep bringing out lots of cool stuff. One of their latest is battery powered DCC for large scale.

[jfugate]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tstage
Nope. Unfortunately, that's not an option anymore. All their stuff is already pre-built.

Tom

Uhm, that's not entirely true, Tom. Even though they don't say a lot about it on their web site pages, you can still buy circuit boards or kits for some things like their boosters. You have to dig a bit to find it. For example, see: http://www.cvpusa.com/easydcc_boosters_ordering.php

But what you say is entirely true for the really complex stuff like their wireless throttles. No kits or boards. Preassembled only.

[MisterBeasley]

You mentioned plywood. While many of us still use it, others have switched to 2-inch insulation foam. Lighter, a bit cheaper, and in many cases easier to work with. I built a frame of 1x4 and 1x3 lumber and then glued foam to that. It's worked very well for me.

Another thing I did early on was download and use the free track-design program from Atlas. The URL is http://www.atlasrr.com for general Atlas stuff - just surf around and find the program. There are other programs, both freeware and payware, and I hope others will chime in with recommendations and URL's. I went into this without a pre-sized layout, and I ended up with a better plan because of that. I didn't buy a piece of lumber until I was pretty sure this was the layout that I wanted.

It will take longer than you think to do this, by the way. But, the early stages can be very encouraging, because you can make a lot of progress quickly. Best of all, every step is a new experience for most of us. I've had a great time learning to make latex molds and plaster casts, and how to build things with styrene sheets and coffee stirrers. I've learned a lot about glue and paint, too.

I'd suggest going to http://www.railimages.com and signing up for an account. This is a free photo site for rail fans (both real and model.) (Donations are cheerfully accepted, by the way.) Once you get started, you might want to post photos of your work in progress.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by simon1966

You mention your older trains you still have. If you have the slightest interest, sentimental or otherwise, in running these go to the LHS with some of them and see if they will roll smoothly on code 83 track. I have serveral trains from my childhood that I like to run and they will only run well on code 100 track due to the deeper flanges.

Ok well here is the situation with my older engines...they no longer work. What I have is an Illinois Central Gulf, Santa Fe, and Cotton Belt engines. Like I said they are from my childhood so I really don't know what time era they fit into, but since they no longer run (dead on a live track) I probably won't be using them unless sometime down the road I learn how to fix them.

Rolliman i hear what your saying about BNSF & and Northfolk Southern being around in the time era I'm wanting to do. Wasn't Illinois Central Gulf though in that time era. BTW, have you all got Feb's issue of Model Railroader yet?? Near the back there is a pic of an orange and white Illinois Central Gulf engine, that is almost exactly how mine looks that I still have from when i was a kid. So exaclty what rail company was running around the midwest back in the late 50's early 60's near Illinois?? Please keep in mind I do want to stay as close possble to my time era, but I'm not trying to be stone cold exact.

In the future, I plan on going through the wall into an ajoining room to have an even bigger layout but the trains be able to transition. So this is one of the reason why I want to start with DCC because I do want multipule trains running and I know DCC provides independant operation. So i am trying to incorporte some things for future expansion.

Money isn't too much a conern yet I'm not going to foolishly waist it either. I have taken time to read up on things, do some research, planning, thinking. But I also know the best source of knowlege is from those who do the hobby. That's why I'm here and respect all suggestions everyone gives to me. I want to learn and have every intention of taking my time at doing this to do it right.

Thank you.

[LehighValleyman]

[#welcome][#welcome] welcome to hobby! I bet you will find this a great hobby.
ok, i'm still sorta in the stage that you are in with yours but i do have bench work.
I highly reccomend DCC for your power system due to the special affects of being able to lash 3 or more units together at one time. Like as posted in other threads, Woodland Senics has got cha coverd with thier wide varitey of on-line & off-line senic acessories. stewart, Athearn (epecially Athearn! { i tell ya i got an athearn GP-38-2 and the thing runs soo smooth!!} ) and Walters i reccomed for locomotives. As well as you i am also modeling the 50's 60's & 70's era Lehigh Valley so a hint would to be sure to keep track of the type and style of acrs you purchase, for example, a car that came out in 2004 wouldn't look right on layout with the theme in the 50's era. A really good suggestion i think is verk easy, is that a friend taught me that if you have extra pieces of track left over, and you need to wire a section of your layout for, lets say house lighting for example, take your stape gun and staple the cut size pieces of track. the wire one end of the track to your power pacl and wire the house light wires to the track, so instead of fiddling with special connectors, use the spare track!
normal plywood is also a good way to go, and to make rivers with ease, put about two boards of normal insulating on the table. well, have fun and experiment! that's what modle railroading is all about, experimenting and railroading!!![:D][8D][^][8D][:)][:P][;)][alien][angel][banghead][C=:-)][C):-)]

[dwRavenstar]

LB,

Never one to say that my way is the right way but it's a road I've followed with good results I'll offer the following regarding layout planning:

My biggest concern at the start was "footprint and fit", meaning what would go where and how much room I'd need for it all. I dug a huge chunk of cardboard out of a dumpster at work (yes, very clean cardboard right on top of the pile [:D]) and cut it down to the proposed dimension of my benchwork. Using cardstock templates of track and structures I laid it all out, tore it up and repeated the process more time than I care to remember until I got a combination that works for me.

In my experience it's way easier to rip up taped down cardstock than glued down roadbed and track. Good luck with your efforts, you've found the right place to ask for assistance and experience. I mean the forum and not me LOL.

dwRavenstar

[nbrodar]

Can't comment on DCC.

I prefer Atlas locomotives, (my growing Alco fleet is entirely Atlas), although the majority of my EMD fleet is Athearn (which with some mechanical tuning up, just fine). Most of my cars are Athearn and MDC/Roundhouse.

I use Atlas and Peco track, it's inexpensive and pretty bullet proof.

My scenery is pink foam, coated with dry-wall mud. I use mostly Woodland Scenics, scenery materials.

I have a large liberary of books, but I use these most ofter:
John Armstrong, Track Planning for Realistic Operation
Andy Sperando, Easy Model Railroad Wireing
Dave Frary, How to Build Realistic Model Railroad Scenery & The Pennsy Middle Division in HO Scale
Lou Sassi, Basic Scenery for Model Railroads
John Pryke, Building City Scenery

Good Luck and keep us posted.

Nick

[Anonymous]

In the 50's & 60's it was still just the Illinois Central. Lots of Gp 7's & 9's most still in the black with the green diamond herald. I liked the CNW because in your era they still had the route of the 400"s with the green stripes.
Illinois had just about every major railroad going though some part of it, so the choice is up to you. Proto 2000 has Gp's painted in the black IC scheme and they are great runners.
It looks like you have already decided on some of the industies you want to model. Now what you need to do is decide if you want to model a branchline , or a heavyer mainline.
Go to www.NMRA.com. they have so many web sites you can visit we probably wouldn't hear from you for a year. They have all the main model companys, along with tons of model and prototype sites.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by LehighValleyman

[#welcome][#welcome] welcome to hobby! I bet you will find this a great hobby.
ok, i'm still sorta in the stage that you are in with yours but i do have bench work.
I highly reccomend DCC for your power system due to the special affects of being able to lash 3 or more units together at one time. Like as posted in other threads, Woodland Senics has got cha coverd with thier wide varitey of on-line & off-line senic acessories. stewart, Athearn (epecially Athearn! { i tell ya i got an athearn GP-38-2 and the thing runs soo smooth!!} ) and Walters i reccomed for locomotives. As well as you i am also modeling the 50's 60's & 70's era Lehigh Valley so a hint would to be sure to keep track of the type and style of acrs you purchase, for example, a car that came out in 2004 wouldn't look right on layout with the theme in the 50's era. A really good suggestion i think is verk easy, is that a friend taught me that if you have extra pieces of track left over, and you need to wire a section of your layout for, lets say house lighting for example, take your stape gun and staple the cut size pieces of track. the wire one end of the track to your power pacl and wire the house light wires to the track, so instead of fiddling with special connectors, use the spare track!
normal plywood is also a good way to go, and to make rivers with ease, put about two boards of normal insulating on the table. well, have fun and experiment! that's what modle railroading is all about, experimenting and railroading!!![:D][8D][^][8D][:)][:P][;)][alien][angel][banghead][C=:-)][C):-)]

Cool thank you for the suggestions. I do have old extra track that I was messing around with laying out on the floor messing with ideas of track laying and how I might like it to be. Old copper track that's all tarnished. i know the best to use now is Nickle silver track cause it's doesn't tarnish so quickly and is more durable. I have been on Woodland Sceneics website and am impressed with what they have. I've also went to the hobby store and picked up a book of there that tells and shows step by step on how do scenery, water techniques, trees, plaster, painting, etc... Very insightful and the things I'm wanting to know, to know what all I'm getting myself into and what to expect.

I've seen that Klambach has books on how to wire, in's and out's of DCC, scenery, etc...All I plan on getting and reading and getting fimilar with before I lay and tack down one piece of track.

Someone above mentions flex track. Now I know there is a lot of flexability in using that, I also know that binding the track makes the rails slide though it make one rail longer than the other which I assume that takes cutting and soddering. That would be something i'd have to pratice on scrap track many times to get it right before I do it on the real thing. I'm willing to do that. I've even seen an article soddering sectional track together along with the joiners for best possible conectivity and for a seemless rail and more authintic look.

I've seen a video of people using foarm board to place their track on. But it didn't show how they fasten it to it. Plywood with cork bed you usually tack it to the plywood....so do they fasten those to foam board just using some adhesive??

The one thing I'm still dying to know how to do most effectivly that I didn't see anyone reply about is how do you elevate the track off the table. Say on one side of your table you want the track to be a 'ground level' and by the time it gets to the other side it's up in the hills and elevated off the plywood. What is the grade limit one should not exceed, how can you tell what grade your doing, and in general, how do you do get it up in the are and how do you support it from underneath???? I would love to find some progressive pics of someones on how you do this cause i want elevations in mine, not just all flat on the table.

Thanks.

[railroadyoshi]

Your father's approach i've found the easiest. I just cut the shapes I need and support them. To get rid of the gap at the bottom, you can build up roadbed or another material. Another material you might find useful is Scultamold, basically a clean paper mache that you can use in the crannies. Another option might be to cut the foam/plywood there and drop the grade in, but that would be quite involved. I'll hope another more experienced modeler chimes in.

[Anonymous]

Especially since you mention money not being a huge issue, I'd say consider the Woodland Scenics system. They offer a set of precut foam risers, inclines, etc. that are convenient, easy and will get you up and running. Many long-time modelers use them, though some reach a point where they go beyond them. I'd say they're a good thing to consider in a "get up and running" and get back into the hobby mode.

Casey

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by kchronister

Especially since you mention money not being a huge issue, I'd say consider the Woodland Scenics system. They offer a set of precut foam risers, inclines, etc. that are convenient, easy and will get you up and running. Many long-time modelers use them, though some reach a point where they go beyond them. I'd say they're a good thing to consider in a "get up and running" and get back into the hobby mode.

Casey

Ah yes, I have actualy seen these foam risers on there website and saw it as a solution to begin my grade, but them my question thoughts began, "ok now that it's the right height and you've used all the raisers, what do you then use to support it through the length of it's span till you use the raisers on the opposite side where the track comes back down to 'ground level'? And I'd like to ask another question. I know that track alignment, levelness, etc is critical for your trains/rolling stock to not derail. Which of plywood vs foam board would actualy be best to use to make sure the stability of your track, and that over time you don't end up with problems?? I would think the hardness and stability of of plywood, yes?? I saw a video where thy used foam board to make hills that the track goes through, I thought that was a cool application of the product. Easier to use I'd think in some cases than plaster and such, although they did use a little plaster molding with it to help define little cliff faces and such.

I just though of another question.....Ballast. Is that a users preference or is there a certain color and courseness you need to use to go with an era your trying to do?? If the later is the case, how does one go about finding out what was used in real life back in that period of time for it to be authintic??

See i told you all I had all kinds of questions and I hope you don't mind me asking. I'm taking everyone opinions and suggestions seriously and considering them all in what will work best for me. You've all been a great help thus far....thanks.