Help Wanted, Starting my own model railroad.

[timthechef]

If your using a Wintel computer both Model railroader and Athern have free programs that you can download from there website. If your on a Mac like me your out of luck. (this is the only downfall of owning a Mac)

[Anonymous]

Is there any freeware or cheap CAD model railroading software to download?? Is any of that worth it?? I'd like to toy around with ideas of track layouts and such on it to help give me some ideas for the actuall thing. Anyone use one, are there any good ones??

[rolleiman]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Lord_Beelzebub

To get aquanted with DCC I just went ahead and got on Digitrax website and printed off the owners manual of the starter set for the Super Empire Builder Advanced system. They have 5 so I printed out the middle one between the cheapest and most expensive to kind of judge what this one can do and get an idea if this is the one I'm looking for, or if this one is a big more than I need, or if i need a better one than this. I thought it nice they have the owners manuals you can save and print off to read and get a better idea what each can and can't do.

For those of you who do have a Digitrax system, what system do you have, how big is your layout appx, how many trains do you run on it at a time, does it also operate turnouts (about how many) and other accessories??

I'm still tying to judge what system I need, does it support sound, etc.

Digitrax Chief user Here.. The basic configuration of my layout can be viewed on my website, about 1/3 way down on the front page. Overall, 22x30 (roughly) L shaped.. It Can support 4 or 5 full time operators but for the most part,I'm down there by myself. I CHOSE the chief, after having the empire builder for the 2 abilities of a Programming track and CV Readback. Both, at the time, weren't possible with the empire builder. When the DT400 came out, I was one of the first in line to get one (one of the few times I'd make that statement). I don't bother with using the DCC to control turnouts or any of that fun stuff, just to control the trains. Electrically, the layout is divided into 3 districts, all with reverse loop capability, using the PM4 (replaced by the PM42). I've had the system up and running for about 7 or 8 years, and haven't given another system a second thought (though I'm sure they all serve thier owners quite well). Yes, it supports sound quite nicely.. Just ask my Broadway Limited Locos..

[simon1966]

I don't power any of my accessories from my Zephyr. I modified a PC power supply from an old PC to handle everything!
http://wiki.ehow.com/Convert-a-Computer-ATX-Power-Supply-to-a-Lab-Power-Supply

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by simon1966

The Zephyr is 2 elements of the DCC system in one box. The booster part puts the power on the track. The command station part sends the DCC commands to the boosters via the loconet wiring, both of them in my case, and the boosters both deliver the commands to the respective power disricts. So as the loco passes from the yard power district to the main line it is still seeing the command signals from the Zephyr command station as both boosters are broadcasting the commands to the track.

Based on your track description, I would say that the Zephyr will be just fine. Maybe add a couple of UP5 face plates and a UT4 throttle and you are good to go. My Zephyr can run 5 sound equipped locos at one time and in all honesty could run my whole layout. I have the extra booster because I wanted to get a DT400 throttle and managed to pick up an entire SEB starter set off e-bay for what the DT400 would have cost on its own from the local hobby shop.

Thank you very much for explaining that in more detail. I need it 'spelled out' for me as I know very little about it. I'm just trying to save myself possible more work and headache later by figuring out what I need up front and what it can do. I don't want it to be sometime in the future, my layout is almost completely build scenery and all, all to find out adding that one more loco or trackside accessory kills my amps where I have to add another booster and do rewiring, dis-assembly to turn my layout into 'block' sections to handle everything or is it safe even though my layout may not need it, to go ahead and do that from the start just in case. That is what I'm trying to figure out.

[simon1966]

The Zephyr is 2 elements of the DCC system in one box. The booster part puts the power on the track. The command station part sends the DCC commands to the boosters via the loconet wiring, both of them in my case, and the boosters both deliver the commands to the respective power disricts. So as the loco passes from the yard power district to the main line it is still seeing the command signals from the Zephyr command station as both boosters are broadcasting the commands to the track.

Based on your track description, I would say that the Zephyr will be just fine. Maybe add a couple of UP5 face plates and a UT4 throttle and you are good to go. My Zephyr can run 5 sound equipped locos at one time and in all honesty could run my whole layout. I have the extra booster because I wanted to get a DT400 throttle and managed to pick up an entire SEB starter set off e-bay for what the DT400 would have cost on its own from the local hobby shop.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by simon1966

In the Digitrax world you have the loconet bus that connects all the Digitrax bits together. In the case of my layout there is a Loconet connection from the Zephyr daisy chained around the layout to other components such as my DB150 (the booster command station module of the SEB configured to be a booster only), UP5 facia panels and my UR90 Infra Red wireless module. My loconet is also connected to my PC via a Locobuffer 2 interface. The loconet wiring is basically a 6 conductor telephone type wire strung under the layout. So I have got 2 power boosters on the layout. The Zephyr and the DB150. Each of these powers a different region of my layout. The Zephyr booster is connected to all the trackage in my yard, the DB150 to all the rest of the layout. Think of each of these sections as being different power districts. They are completely separate from each other by gaps cut into the rail in the yard lead track. So as a locomotive leave my yard it crosses the gap between the section powered by the Zephyr and the section powered by the DB150. To get power to the tracks, I have run a 2 wire heavier guage power bus under the layout each of the power districts and then run thinner feeder wires up and soldered to the tracks. These power buses must be separate from each other. In other words the output from each booster has to go to independent track sections.

Hopefully this bit is clear. You can if you want go a step further and break the output from each booster down into smaller isolated sections for short protection and blocks for signalling and loco detection.

To answer the other bits of your post. I happen to use Peco Insulfrog turnouts, but there is no reason why you can not use non isolated frogs if appropriate wiring is done. (See the www.wiringfordcc.com web site for more on this). Insuls have worked fine for me and seemed to be easier to install. As mentioned above, my gap between the 2 power district blocks is actually on a straight section of track and not at a turnout.

Hope this helps with the understanding a bit.

Ok I understand what your saying about having seperate sections of your layout powered by two different boosters. Say your Zephyr is your command booster, and that you said powered your rail yard, electric current cutt off from the rest of your layout cause that's what the other booster is for. When your running your DCC engine in your railyard from the main command module, how does it continue to run the engine once it crosses over to the track that is being powered by your other booster?? Since it's a seperate block how can your command controller continue to control the train once it's on the other section that some other booster is now powering??? Are the two connected where your other booster knows it's only to be a powerbooster but still transmits the commands from the main controller through the that 'block' of track for the enine?

Do you know what I'm trying to say?? Exactly how big is your layout that requires you to have two seperate 'blocks' anyway??

When I start my layout it's going to be 8X15 feet and a big enough area in the middle for two people to stand in. The trains will go all the way around the two people standing inside, there will be no 'reversing' where the trains do a 180 and come back onto the same track, I will most likely never have more than 10 trains running at one time no matter how big my layout gets due to it will only be my wife and I running it. I will probably have more than one engine per train sometimes, no more than three, but even in that case never more than 10 running at one time even with someone else. I want the system to automate the turnouts, any trackside accessories, I plan for my engines to have lights and sound as well.

Will the Zephyr system be enough to handle all that or will I have to plan ahead when laying track to do these 'block' sections to have an additional booster for extra power or do I need a little better system than the Zephyr?? The Zephyr, an extra controller for my wife to run trains, and possibly an extra booster seem to be what I need for how my layout is going to be.

I'm good and understand the system in how it works up to the point of adding additional boosters and putting your layout into 'block' sections and how to wire for that.

Geez, why does getting started in this hobby seem so high tech?? Is there no "DCC for Dummies" book out there anywhere that explains all the aspect of how to set a system up and expanding it?? To know how to make your trains run, how to make your turnouts work from it, track side accessories, how to wire it all up correctly etc?? I admit I'm a dummy to all this and I need help [xx(]

[simon1966]

In the Digitrax world you have the loconet bus that connects all the Digitrax bits together. In the case of my layout there is a Loconet connection from the Zephyr daisy chained around the layout to other components such as my DB150 (the booster command station module of the SEB configured to be a booster only), UP5 facia panels and my UR90 Infra Red wireless module. My loconet is also connected to my PC via a Locobuffer 2 interface. The loconet wiring is basically a 6 conductor telephone type wire strung under the layout. So I have got 2 power boosters on the layout. The Zephyr and the DB150. Each of these powers a different region of my layout. The Zephyr booster is connected to all the trackage in my yard, the DB150 to all the rest of the layout. Think of each of these sections as being different power districts. They are completely separate from each other by gaps cut into the rail in the yard lead track. So as a locomotive leave my yard it crosses the gap between the section powered by the Zephyr and the section powered by the DB150. To get power to the tracks, I have run a 2 wire heavier guage power bus under the layout each of the power districts and then run thinner feeder wires up and soldered to the tracks. These power buses must be separate from each other. In other words the output from each booster has to go to independent track sections.

Hopefully this bit is clear. You can if you want go a step further and break the output from each booster down into smaller isolated sections for short protection and blocks for signalling and loco detection.

To answer the other bits of your post. I happen to use Peco Insulfrog turnouts, but there is no reason why you can not use non isolated frogs if appropriate wiring is done. (See the www.wiringfordcc.com web site for more on this). Insuls have worked fine for me and seemed to be easier to install. As mentioned above, my gap between the 2 power district blocks is actually on a straight section of track and not at a turnout.

Hope this helps with the understanding a bit.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by simon1966

LB, I am a Digitrax user and would not suggest you consider the SEB, while it is the middle system of the Digitrax range, it does not have the ability to read back CV's. The lower end Zephyr (what I have) can do this and it is a very capable system. I actually have a SEB as well, but just use the command station as an extra booster for my Zephyr.

Noted!

So I'm reading this manual just to get an idea of how DCC works and brings up questions.

Even if I went with the Xephyr, how big does ones layout get before you need to starting adding boosters?? It said in the manual that when adding boosters your layout should electrically set up in 'blocks'. Ok so how do turnouts come into play when you go to switch trains from one block to the other?? I assume you use insulated frogs with DCC yes?? And dosne't the turnouts bridge power from one block to the other?? So then why do you need to set up your layout that way?? That part I'm a little confused about and exactly what they mean.

[simon1966]

LB, I am a Digitrax user and would not suggest you consider the SEB, while it is the middle system of the Digitrax range, it does not have the ability to read back CV's. The lower end Zephyr (what I have) can do this and it is a very capable system. I actually have a SEB as well, but just use the command station as an extra booster for my Zephyr.

[Anonymous]

To get aquanted with DCC I just went ahead and got on Digitrax website and printed off the owners manual of the starter set for the Super Empire Builder Advanced system. They have 5 so I printed out the middle one between the cheapest and most expensive to kind of judge what this one can do and get an idea if this is the one I'm looking for, or if this one is a big more than I need, or if i need a better one than this. I thought it nice they have the owners manuals you can save and print off to read and get a better idea what each can and can't do.

For those of you who do have a Digitrax system, what system do you have, how big is your layout appx, how many trains do you run on it at a time, does it also operate turnouts (about how many) and other accessories??

I'm still tying to judge what system I need, does it support sound, etc.

[rolleiman]

QUOTE: Originally posted by shawnbobbitt

Both BNSF and NS didn't come into existance until the late 1980s or early 1990s.. So Now you've moved into the later era for road names.. Nothing Wrong with that though. If you keep it prototypical (realistic) you've ruled out a lot of rolling stock too.. Anything with a roof walk on it for instance.. Cabooses (or cabeese, you choose) are pretty much gone.. Though I know that NS runs one on a local out of Oakwood yard 2 blocks from my house (outside of Detroit). I think both BNSF and NS have websites you can go to and get some general info. Of course there are probably hundreds of other sites dedicated to the names as well.

this is somewhat off subject ,but the use of caboose's in the bnsf ,is not non existent .they are still used on near by yard to yard moves ,and for industrial set outs ,that require the trian to perform a long shoving movement .however due to union agreements caboose's need to meet certain standards ,working toilet ,heater /a/c .so in turn bnsf no longer has caboose's they have what is called a weigh car ,or a shove car .still looks like a caboose ,but the doors are welded shut (theese welds often break in cold weather hint hint )it no longer has to meet caboose standards ,because it is a shoove car .its all in the paper work .

That may very well be the case for this NS caboose as well.. From where I'm sitting (at a traffic light near the overpass), if it looks like a caboose, rolls like a caboose, it must Be a caboose.. It's in shape only, I'm not up on what the actual function is so it may very well Be a shove car.. It's the only one I've seen since the railroads stopped using them and it's pretty well beat up. Still has N&W reporting marks and probably still carries the original number.

[Anonymous]

Both BNSF and NS didn't come into existance until the late 1980s or early 1990s.. So Now you've moved into the later era for road names.. Nothing Wrong with that though. If you keep it prototypical (realistic) you've ruled out a lot of rolling stock too.. Anything with a roof walk on it for instance.. Cabooses (or cabeese, you choose) are pretty much gone.. Though I know that NS runs one on a local out of Oakwood yard 2 blocks from my house (outside of Detroit). I think both BNSF and NS have websites you can go to and get some general info. Of course there are probably hundreds of other sites dedicated to the names as well.

this is somewhat off subject ,but the use of caboose's in the bnsf ,is not non existent .they are still used on near by yard to yard moves ,and for industrial set outs ,that require the trian to perform a long shoving movement .however due to union agreements caboose's need to meet certain standards ,working toilet ,heater /a/c .so in turn bnsf no longer has caboose's they have what is called a weigh car ,or a shove car .still looks like a caboose ,but the doors are welded shut (theese welds often break in cold weather hint hint )it no longer has to meet caboose standards ,because it is a shoove car .its all in the paper work .

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: I don't think any of my engines came with train sets

That doesn't mean they're not "train-set" grade. That term simply refers to the low-end models that are included in train-sets but thay could also be bought seperatly. Look at them and maybe somewhere on the under side there might be a brand name. Or take the shell off. Tell us what it looks like inside. That would help.

[Anonymous]

Well considering Chicago is in Illinois,just about every railroad went thru part of your state, depends on which part of state you're modeling,Wabash is a good road to model. Diffenately decide your particular road to model so you can buy more towards your desired road,save some money that way. If you have a desired road,check out their historical society,most have a web page and you'll get lots of useful info from them.

[rolleiman]

QUOTE: Originally posted by MisterBeasley
One of the Digitrax offerings (I think it's the Empire Builder) has a low rating, because you don't get much over the Zephyr for its cost, and it's a lot less capable than the Super Chief. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong on this, OK?

Operationally, What you loose with the Empire builder (DB150) are F9-f12 and programming track capability.. You're right though, for the cash, The Zephyer is defianately the better way to go, than the EB, in a starter system from Digitrax.. Gives all the features of the Chief (from what I've read on the digitrax site) except power capacity and since it's loconet based, Fully expandable. I wish it had been Available when I bought the chief, could have saved a couple hundred $$.

[MisterBeasley]

I've got a Lenz-100 DCC system. I chose it over some of the others because it comes with a 5-amp capacity, it supports functions up to 13 (important for sound) and it has a lifetime warrantee. I added a Lenz-90 throttle, which I really don't care for all that much. (I wanted to try an analog "dial" throttle, but I'd already gotten accustomed to the increment / decrement pushbuttons. The -90 also has a much clumsier user interface.)

Even though there is a modeller with every kind of DCC system here, there are very few complaints from any of them. They are all pretty good. The most common caution is "don't buy a non-expandable starter system." The Zephyr, incidentally, is fully expandable, and a lot of people have them and love them. One of the Digitrax offerings (I think it's the Empire Builder) has a low rating, because you don't get much over the Zephyr for its cost, and it's a lot less capable than the Super Chief. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong on this, OK?

All decoders (the part that goes in the locomotive) are compatable with all command systems. The thing that's typically not compatable is the throttle. You can't take a Lenz throttle and plug it into a Digitrax command system - it just won't work. But, you can take a locomotive with a Lenz decoder and run it on your Digitrax-equipped layout just fine, and vice versa.

[selector]

LB, when the question is asked here, the vast majority (not exaggerating) of responses will tell you to forget smoke. It doesn't look at all like what you are imagining, it's all white, wispy, gummy, and covers your locomotive and tracks with a sticky deposit over time. Also, it smells. Finally, the heating element can often cause you grief with the surrounding plastic.

Honestly, you are strongly advised to give smoke a miss.

-Crandell

[timthechef]

As far as finding others who model railroad try googleing for clubs in your area. Also you can meet people at the hobby store. Sometimes hobby stores have clinics that you can go to and learn about model railroading, you can meet people and learn a few things at the same time.

[Anonymous]

OK.

For DCC Systems. North Coast Engineering, Lenze, and Digitrax are all highly reccomended. I have the Digitrax system myself and find it highly relaiable and very flexable. And user Freindly.

Good Locomotives You can't go wrong with the following.

Proto 2000/1000
Atlas
Stewart Hobbies (A Division of Bowser)
Bachmann Spectrum
Athearn
Walthers
recent production Rivorossi
and while I have no personal expereince I hear IHC comes highly reccomended.

For your Code 83 Track. While there are many suppliers of Flex Track. Atlas Turnouts are the easyest to install. Other brands have to have special complicated wiring That just make getting a reliable track arrangement that much more of a pain in the rear.

Most of the building kits that are out there are pretty good. And Woodland Scenics has you covered for scenery.

Might I reccomend you purchase the book HO Railroad From Set to Scenery and that will walk you through all the steps of building a model railroad on an 8' X8' layout.

[modelalaska]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jfugate

My Kato and Atlas fleets (I have over 60 locos) all run, and run, and run with very few maintenance issues. If I have to take a loco to the workbench for maintenance, 9 out of 10 times it's a P2K loco.

Joe,
since you have so many Katos and Atlas', what type of gear lube do you use on them? My layout is in a cool area so a lighter oil or grease would be needed I think. What do they use at the factory?

Thanks.
Peter

[waltersrails]

Well i have always likes athrean and bachmann spectrum. Kato and walthers are also good brands.

[jfugate]

They put a little heating element in the smokestack and you put drops of a special smoke oil in the stack. The result is some wafting smoke that looks kind of like cigarette smoke.

However ...

Using that stuff causes your track to become covered with filmy gunk much more quickly. I don't recommend using it unless you like cleaning your track a lot.

And it's really kind of a gimick because smoke doesn't really scale down that well, plus you are always putting more drops in the stack cuz it only lasts a few minutes.

[Anonymous]

Ok here is a question that you'll all think is dumb of me to ask cause to you this is probably well known. And don't be pissed at me cause I didn't 'Search' for it.

What technology is in the steam train engines where they can actually let off smoke and such??

[Anonymous]

Thank you...thank you...thank you...

I got so much to learn about I feel overwhelmed and really don't know where to start and what order to accompli***hings. Obviously you can't do anything without a surface to do it on, so I know that's my first step. Right now I'm just learning about this DCC, what I've read in what it can do is totally cool. Yes I want sound, effects, I want it all. I feel lost cause I only know so little about the technology but don't know what all it's capible of, nothing on how to wire it all up to work properly, how to get the engines to work on the system. Yes i want DCC right from the start from laying my first section of track. I don't want to start off with DC then swith to DCC, I don't want a starter system of DCC that I'll have to turn around later and get a better system that will do what I'll then be wanting from it. I want a system that can more than handle this strarting layout but has the muscle to handle what I add to it later. I think the biggest and best system is a little too much for what I need but I think I'll need a little better than basic too.

I don't expect anyone out here to hold my hand as some might think with me asking so many questions, I just need direction to books, online websites, etc...

Have any of you felt overwhelmed like this when you first got started?? I'm sure to all you pros all this is second nature and your a wiz at it and doing it. I wish I knew someone personally that is into this hobby that i can talk with about it and learn from.

As always, thanks for all your replies and help.

Thanks.

[jfugate]

Ah yes, DCC. Let me point out a couple of threads on here that will help you figure out what system you want and what the important considerations are for DCC.

First, there's my picking the best system FORUM CLINIC:
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?page=1&TOPIC_ID=49375

Then there's my DCC how-to FORUM CLINIC:
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?page=1&TOPIC_ID=36389

These could probably both use a bump, so I'm going to do that to bring them to the front again.

[Anonymous]

www.wiringfordcc.com is a good place to start.

Sounds to me like you're still inside the "starter set" envelope, but I always recommend going for a "full" DCC system from the get-go. It's very likely you'll get there anyway, and buying a starter THEN a full system later is more than just buying the full system now.

One thing that can easily push you beyond a starter system is sound-equipped locos. They draw significantly more amperage than a non-sound loco, and all of a sudden that 2 or 2.5 amps gets eaten up real quick - especially if you like to let your locos standing idle still run their sound. Steam locos do a lot of cool stuff just sitting idle - air pump, steam blowoff, etc. so many folks DO want that. If that's the case, that means ANY loco just sitting on the track is drawing amperage of note. Many report that once they get sound, they are 'hooked' (I would be in that camp), and it's the quickest way to find yourself having to replace a starter-level DCC set.

Now, which set to buy??? Yes, Digitrax is a very good system. I particularly like how their cabs have _two_ throttles built in so you can run two engines without "switching" back and forth. BUT...

I consider that DT has one fatal flaw...maybe. If you ever think you'll want to do wireless control (and my answer is... you will...) the Digitrax wireless system is second rate (at best), in my book. It's uni-directional - the wireless throttle can send commands to the system, but cannot receive feedback. There are various gripes with this, but the biggest is that you cannot switch locos wirelessly. If you're running a loco and want to switch to another loco, you must plug the throttle in... For me, that would mean A LOT of unplugging and replugging... this about 95% defeats the whole purposeof wireless, from my standpoint.

Most other systems use duplex wireless, so you can do anything wireless you can with a cord, and there's little reason to ever "plug in". EasyDCC, NCE and Lenz (using the CVP wireless throttle) all do duplex wireless.

I'll go so far as to say picking a DCC system from among these four is simply based on two areas where they have signfiicant differences. On the fundamentals, I think it's largely a wash: Will it run 99 throttles or 999? For 99% of us who aren't buying for a massive club layout... who cares? I believe the two key areas of differentiation are:

1) Throttle. Single most important element. Do you like how the throttle is laid out and how it works? A very, very personal thing to which I believe there is NO right answer except what's right for you.

2) Wireless (and you can ignore this if you're _certain_ you'll never want to go cordless)... Questions to consider are: Can you live with simplex rather than duplex communication? Are their wireless throttles laid out different than the regular throttles (Digitrax, NCE = No; CVP, Lenz = yes) and do you like them? Etc.

That's my thoughts. Have fun! I can tell you this: the underlying question of DC versus DCC I have zero doubt whatsoever that DCC is the way to go.

Casey

[Anonymous]

I don't think any of my engines came with train sets, that they were bought at a hobby store. The best engine I had that worked was my Cotten Belt and man was that engine heavy. One engine that's the most new that still runs is a Union Pacific. That one seems like it might be a train set engine cause it looks it and is way too light.

Ok, guys last couple days I've been reading up a little on DCC. i know I want to use it, Digitraxx seems to be a system that capabile of doing a lot of things and is very flexable and expandible. So here is my question for suggestions.

As I stated before my starting layout will be appx. 8 by 15 feet with space cut out in the middle to stand in. At this point I want to be able to run 4-6 trains/engines. And I say that based on what I read that you can have have multipule engines to one train and work them simutainiously correct?? So just because I may have 8 trains on the track, some will be working together as one. Sometime in the future my layout will expand through the wall into an adjoining room where they layout in that room alone will be double the size. But since it will always only be my wife and I running the trains, I want a DCC system that can handle a lot of turnouts, accessories, and a hand full of engines.

I know Digitraxx top of the line system can do everything possible and operate 120 trains, I don't think I'd ever need a system that big, but I think I'd need something a bit more upscale than they Zypher right??? That's my question, which one would be best for me for my current and for expanding???

I've seen other threads out here talking about feeders, what gage wire to use in certain applications, etc...I know none of this. I don't expect anyone to re-write a book on here telling me all the in's and out's of this technology, but can anyone point me to some books or online material that does so I know and have a good idea what it's all about

Thanks.

[Anonymous]

Railroads that were NOT around in your time period-
-BNSF
-CSX
-NS
RR's that were-
-illinois central (IC gulf came in the mid-1970's)
-Chicago Burlington & Quincy
-Chicgo & North Western
-Chicgo Great Western
-Rock Island- there are many more that i did not list.
Brands of engines worth buying-
-Atlas
-Athearn (Genesis, RTR, or b-b)
-PROTO 1000 / 2000
-KATO
there are others that i did not list. Plan on spending at least $50 for a good engine. Chances are the engines you have now (that don't run) are "train-set" grade. Most high-grade engines would still run after 25 years. For rolling stock there is no one brand that stands out.
bottom line_ RESEARCH the railroad you chose to model. You can't just buy anything w/ the RR you are modeling. That doesn't work. Ask yourself - What locomotives were in servce at that time? what paint scheme(s) did they wear? What types of freight cars (or passenger cars) were in service? Remeber the members of this forum will answer any questions you may have.