Soldering Rail Joints

[RR_Mel]

 

I haven’t seen this mentioned, I solder my feeders to the bottom of the rails in the gaps between the ties.  That way the wire is less likely to be seen or at least easier to hide.

I use Atlas code 83 Flex Track and use Walthers 948-841 Code 83 Nickel Silver Rail Joiners.  They fit the Atlas rails very tight and should work well without soldering, and they are low profile and definitely harder to see.  Much better than the others available.
 

Mel



 
My Model Railroad   
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 

[gmpullman]

Atlas_1996 by Edmund, on Flickr

Cheers, Ed

[Doughless]

Lastspikemike

 

 

I agree. The trouble starts with flex track as you approach 24" radius. Switching to sectional track at that point is the way to go. 

My new layout will use flex track to ease tangents into the 24" radius sectional track. Anywhere I can fit broader curves will use flex track bent to the desired radius before securing to the layout. No stressed joints.

 

Easements from tangent to curve is the way to go, and can only be done with flex track.  Attaching the flex to sectional is not a problem either, and I've done that.

There are many ways to do things, most are based on comfort, preference, and skill level.  I think in the end, prebending is more trouble than its worth. 

Its tough to get a consistent curve, can waffle by a few degrees throughout the bend because you have to work an overbend throughout the piece of track.  But that may not matter either.  The advantage of the springy Atlas is that it forms a consistent bend by simply securing one end.

Once the track is secured with caulk or nails, the lateral stress is removed.  And then it becomes even more unbudgeable with ballast and glue. 

Track like Peco that holds its bend, has no lateral force at rest anyway.

I've prebent Atlas, its not wihtout its purpose, but that's where I had to fit something like a 17 inch long varying radius curve in between two turnouts.  Can't really do the one end secured method.  But for a full three foot section, I think you'll find it not worth the trouble. 

[ATLANTIC CENTRAL]

Well, this has been very interesting. I don't ever recall this topic being discussed on here or with any of my other modeler friends in the whole 50 plus years I have been in the hobby.

I worked in hobby shops, and clearly that info in the Atlas catalog did not appear in all the catalogs and was never highly promoted by Atlas.

Maybe I just instinctively put the sliding rail inside when it mattered without giving it much thought.

As I said earlier, I have seldom used flex track for small radius curves, so the tie spacing issue is not an issue. This got me curious enough to play with a piece of Atlas flex, and at the radius I use, any difference in the tie spacing is not noticable.

When I built my second layout, I understood that I needed and wanted 36" curves. I have never used a mainline radius less than that since. That was 1973. All my curves have easements, all my curves less than 45 degree direction change are eliptical with a minimum radius apex of 36", which is what the prototype does. Small changes in direction are often really two easements back to back with no fixed radius

I understand the long list of reasons that many people have for using sharper curves.  For me it simply is not an option as long as I have the space.

My new layout space is 1500 sq ft, I would rather build a less complex layout, with fewer "features" and be able have large curves and better looking scenery, than see how much I can "pack in".

I think my new layout plan is a good example of large but relatively simple.

Hope to get started soon. 

To that end I am off now to help my Daughter move, which will remove considerable "stuff" from my layout space. And to work on some home improvement projects I need to finish up to begin layout construction.

Sheldon

[Doughless]

Agree Sheldon.  I'm in the thread because I'm bored.  Not because the issue is all that complicated.

Agree also, its probably just instinctive to put the sliding rail to the inside.

[ROBERT PETRICK]

I hesitate to jump in, but for those needing help Peco provides instructions. This is Peco Streamline N Scale Code 55, but I assume HO is similar . . .

Carry on.

Robert

[Doughless]

ROBERT PETRICK

I hesitate to jump in, but for those needing help Peco provides instructions. This is Peco Streamline N Scale Code 55, but I assume HO is similar . . .

Carry on.

Robert

 

It's Halloween.  Kids mobbing the darkend streets have kept me in the basement on a Saturday night.  And COZI TV has forgone their usual reruns of Columbo to run a Munsters marathon.

A greater than desired level of boredom has motivated me to vigorously forge ahead down the rabbit hole of model railroading minutia.

To answer the assumption, Peco HO code 83 has the same number of gaps on either side of the rail and no arrows.  I see no instructions.  

I feel that I am safe to install either rail to the inside, or either rail to the outside. 

And yes, I will do both since I'm making an S curve out of it shortly.

[Boiler-man]

As for soldering rail Joints, I have always soldered the ones that are not gapped to eliminate shorts and do not solder the rails to turnouts incase they need to be replaced.

As for expansion and contraction, the bench work is the larger mass and it will expand and contract with temperature and humidity and that is what effects the track way more than the track expanding and contracting.

I have never had any issues with track expanding or contracting.

I use Atlas Code 55 N-Scale track and turnouts on my layout with a triple track straight that is comprised of flex making it 27 ft. long and all joints are soldered with no issues.

I do control the layout room so that the temperature and humidity is fairly constant with no big swings up or down and all bench work wood was dry prior to laying any track.

Another thing I did is glue the cork roadbed on foam insulation with latex contact cement and track on the cork. Hope this helps.

There is no expansion with closed cell foam insulation.

[steemtrayn]

On my last layout,I soldered all joints for conductivity and elimination of kinks. Humidity eventually caused curved track to straighten itself between hold-down points, but never had a problem with track buckling.

Now, before laying curved track, I run the rails through a Fast Tracks roller to give them a permanent bend. You can do that with Peco since both rails are removable. I cut the rails in the middle of the section of track and solder together what was previously the ends, and place joiners on the "new" ends and join without soldering. Once the track is fastened down, A drop of CA in the center of the section anchors the rail to the ties and the rails are free to move either way from that point on. A jumper wire is soldered to the rails at the unsoldered joint.