Doughless I only follow switchers and 4 axle stuff. As far as the DD40, and all potential DD40 models for that matter: Wouldn't the shear length of the model require an excessive swing in the trucks just in order for it to travel on something less than a 36 inch radius curve. I don't know if I would blame Bachmann for not being able to defy the laws of physics.
I only follow switchers and 4 axle stuff.
As far as the DD40, and all potential DD40 models for that matter: Wouldn't the shear length of the model require an excessive swing in the trucks just in order for it to travel on something less than a 36 inch radius curve. I don't know if I would blame Bachmann for not being able to defy the laws of physics.
The Athearn Genesis DD40AX has a minimum radius of 28" FYI. The Bachman looks the way it does because they are making it so it can run on a minimum radius of 18", which is comical for an engine that long. The big gap in the pilot ruins the appearance of that otherwise handsome looking diesel. If I were in the market for a Centenial, I would some how find a way to get the Genesis model and squeeze in the 28" curves. For me, trains are for looking at so things like that are important. Yes, beautiy is in the eye of the beholder.
I had once considered the Bachman GE before I started limiting my purchases to a particular time frame, and the earlier version wasn't the best runner. They revised it later and it was apparently much improved.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
riogrande5761 Doughless I only follow switchers and 4 axle stuff. As far as the DD40, and all potential DD40 models for that matter: Wouldn't the shear length of the model require an excessive swing in the trucks just in order for it to travel on something less than a 36 inch radius curve. I don't know if I would blame Bachmann for not being able to defy the laws of physics. The Athearn Genesis DD40AX has a minimum radius of 28" FYI. The Bachman looks the way it does because they are making it so it can run on a minimum radius of 18", which is comical for an engine that long. The big gap in the pilot ruins the appearance of that otherwise handsome looking diesel. If I were in the market for a Centenial, I would some how find a way to get the Genesis model and squeeze in the 28" curves. For me, trains are for looking at so things like that are important. Yes, beautiy is in the eye of the beholder. I had once considered the Bachman GE before I started limiting my purchases to a particular time frame, and the earlier version wasn't the best runner. They revised it later and it was apparently much improved.
Our model railroad curves is one reason why I stick to shorter engines like switchers and 4 axle diesels.
Even though I commend Bachmann for the models of the 44, 45, and 70, tonners, I don't like their running qualities and therefore don't own any.
Any manufacturer is going to be challenged to have a loco that small run as good as the larger wheelbase stuff, especially if they don't use some type of keep alive technology.
- Douglas
DoughlessAny manufacturer is going to be challenged to have a loco that small run as good as the larger wheelbase stuff, especially if they don't use some type of keep alive technology.
And, unfortunately, there isn't much room under the hood for anything beyond the motor and drive train. A smallish decoder could fit in the cab but adding a keep-alive wouid be near-impossible.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
One more question about lightbulbs: do they burn out quicker in DCC than DC?
ATSFGuy One more question about lightbulbs: do they burn out quicker in DCC than DC.
One more question about lightbulbs: do they burn out quicker in DCC than DC.
Based on my experience, yes.
Sheldon
If you don't operate DCC, as you have said you do not, then how can you really know for sure?
I had Athearn lightbulbs in plain DC, on a nominal 12 volt maximum system, that were definitely not being operated at full power (ie full voltage) that still only lasted a few days.
It is hard to fathom (though it is possible) lightbulbs failing faster than after a few uses (few uses in dc) in dcc mode.
John
PRR8259 If you don't operate DCC, as you have said you do not, then how can you really know for sure? I had Athearn lightbulbs in plain DC, on a nominal 12 volt maximum system, that were definitely not being operated at full power (ie full voltage) that still only lasted a few days. It is hard to fathom (though it is possible) lightbulbs failing faster than after a few uses (few uses in dc) in dcc mode. John
John, I don't operate DCC on my home layout, but for 15 years I have been a very active member of a local round robin group, operating, as well designing and helping to build, more than a half dozen basement filling DCC layouts.
I know my way around a Digitrax throttle, experience that I feel qualifies my opinion of not liking them........
Recently have I removed myself from the group do to family obligations, but once a week for years I was running trains with DCC.......
I have forgotten what this thread was initially all about.
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrain I have forgotten what this thread was initially all about. Rich
Choosing a set of F units for a Northern Pacific passenger train.......
Which then some how had to cover every defective loco Athearn has ever made, why brass is better, the pro and cons of LED's vs incandecent lamps, DCC vs DC, and how I'm not qualified to say anything about DCC because I don't own DCC, despite dozens and dozens of hours with a Digitrax throttle in my hand......
And it still remains that the only readily available NP F units likely come in boxes that say "Intermountain" - like I suggested on page one........
Put the proverbial fork in it.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL richhotrain I have forgotten what this thread was initially all about. Rich Choosing a set of F units for a Northern Pacific passenger train....... Which then some how had to cover every defective loco Athearn has ever made, why brass is better, the pro and cons of LED's vs incandecent lamps, DCC vs DC, and how I'm not qualified to say anything about DCC because I don't own DCC, despite dozens and dozens of hours with a Digitrax throttle in my hand...... And it still remains that the only readily available NP F units likely come in boxes that say "Intermountain" - like I suggested on page one........ Sheldon
Sheldon--
First, I didn't say anything about not being qualified, so please do not put words into my post that I did not say.
All I asked was how would you know? It's a simple question, really.
Also, given that Athearn light bulbs fail after only a few hours of operation in plain DC (sometimes, but not all the time) I was seriously questioning how they could possibly fail faster in DCC.
I don't read every individual post, so somehow I must have missed a previous statement of yours regarding the round Robin group and your DCC experience. If you feel that I have slighted you, well I'm sorry, and that was not my intent.
P.S. One of the reasons I despise DCC is when I take my trains to somebody's layout that has DCC they seem to spend an inordinate amount of time just figuring out how to run the trains. I've stood there for more than a half hour while a friend tried to get a DCC equipped engine to move--at all--phoned a friend--and was still unsuccessful.
PRR8259 One of the reasons I despise DCC is when I take my trains to somebody's layout that has DCC they seem to spend an inordinate amount of time just figuring out how to run the trains. I've stood there for more than a half hour while a friend tried to get a DCC equipped engine to move--at all--phoned a friend--and was still unsuccessful.
It's a shame you've had some bad experiences and feel like throwing the baby out with the bath water. Just like anything else, consider the factors, like the user and the system and are the two compatible with each other. Sounds like your friend has a system which is too complex for him.
But I only run my trains once in a while, how can the lightbulbs only last such a short period of time? I don't get it.
Welcome back! Stick with it!
I got replacement gears for the H20-44 from Northwest Short Line several years ago and had no trouble installing the replacements. Sorry, I don't remember the part number, but an inquiry to NWSL can probably direct you. I understand this was a very common problem with these models, so you shouldn't feel like you're being picked on! The engine runs fine now, but it's always been a bit noisier than many other diesel models. A better motor might help, but wouldn't be absolutely necessary.
Thanks Tom, you too John, for the timely suggestions. I will contact NWSL for replacement gears for the FM's. I'm looking forward to more time with the hobby. I'm sticking with DC and am reworking some of those old unfriendly Shinohara code 83 & code 70 turnouts based on a couple MR mag articles.
Ed