riogrande5761 Paul3 I must be one of those rare people that not only has brass, but runs it, too. I model the New Haven Railroad almost exclusively. Paul A. Cutler III Yeah Paul, but look at what RR you model. Probably much of their rolling stock requires brass. If I were modeling steam era D&RGW, I'd be in the same boat. ALL of their main steam is brass only; anything available in plastic are were short lived or leased such as the UP type steam engines or the 2nd hand N&W articulateds. Basically I can't afford it - and even if I did pick up a few old issue D&RGW std gauge steam in the lower price ranges, I'd have to learn how to make it run well and have it painted etc. Ain't gonna happen. An old acquaintence of mine models 1953 D&RGW and well, he once bragged that he was in the top 3% wage category in the US, so he could afford all that brass.
Paul3 I must be one of those rare people that not only has brass, but runs it, too. I model the New Haven Railroad almost exclusively. Paul A. Cutler III
I must be one of those rare people that not only has brass, but runs it, too.
I model the New Haven Railroad almost exclusively.
Paul A. Cutler III
Yeah Paul, but look at what RR you model. Probably much of their rolling stock requires brass. If I were modeling steam era D&RGW, I'd be in the same boat. ALL of their main steam is brass only; anything available in plastic are were short lived or leased such as the UP type steam engines or the 2nd hand N&W articulateds. Basically I can't afford it - and even if I did pick up a few old issue D&RGW std gauge steam in the lower price ranges, I'd have to learn how to make it run well and have it painted etc. Ain't gonna happen. An old acquaintence of mine models 1953 D&RGW and well, he once bragged that he was in the top 3% wage category in the US, so he could afford all that brass.
Well, I believe this is where clear goal setting and planning--having some kind of plan--comes in, along with smart shopping.
One can occasionally find a good deal on Rio Grande brass standard gauge steamers. They show up at train shows for far less than the currently advertised online prices. There's two words written in invisible ink on every advertised price: "we hope" as in we hope you'll pay that!
I think if one wants to go in a certain model train direction, and has the time and patience to wait rather than obtain instant or short term gratification, one can actually locate some of those rare steamers affordably. At least I have in the past...once picked up a neat Custom Brass N&W Z1a/DRGW L-76 for only $600 at Timonium. It ran great...I just didn't have a painter for it. Should have kept it.
The Rio Grande steamers are out there to be had. I think the Western Pacific steam is a harder find/more expensive purchase. Their articulateds are less common than Rio Grande.
Respectfully submitted--
John Mock
PRR8259 Well, I believe this is where clear goal setting and planning--having some kind of plan--comes in, along with smart shopping. Respectfully submitted-- John Mock
U-3-b PRR8259 Well, I believe this is where clear goal setting and planning--having some kind of plan--comes in, along with smart shopping. Respectfully submitted-- John Mock When I was in my teens I was one of those purchase anything kind of people. As I result I had a lot of stuff and no real plan. After college and the military, I did like John said above and developed a clear vision and narrowed my focus and have stayed on track for the past 30 years. I am not knocking other modelers and their choices, heck the club that I belong to is a mix of all kinds of eras and models and that is fine, but for me personally I have saved a lot of money having a plan and not buying whatever caught my fancy either on the internet or at train shows. Steve
Well, I've come full circle. I started with no plan and bought what appealed to me. Then I developed a plan and only bought what fit the plan. But now that I have everything I need for the plan (at least what's available), I buy things that appeal to me. In the near future I plan to have what appeals to me layout in addition to the one I planned. I have decided that I enjoy collecting as well as building and running trains.
Enjoy
Paul
riogrande5761,I am hardly in the top 3% of wages. I worked retail for 25 years, and that's not exactly the path to fame, glory, and riches. More like . But I save my pennies and get a piece when I can get one. Heck, I picked up my first couple of brass steam engines back when I was still in High School.
I won't deny that I've been very lucky to score some deals on brass. I was given a couple pieces as presents, I inherited a few from friends who've passed on (not my preferred method at all), and I received one in exchange for doing R&D work in getting it made in the first place. I go to half a dozen train shows a year as a dealer, and I've occasionally found a gem for good money. But I've been collecting NH brass for over 20 years and not all of them have been lucky finds. You're bound to find some deals as long as you keep trying.
While I do have a lot of capital tied up in brass models, I don't have a layout any more. And even when I did, there wasn't much on it other than plywood and buildings. I also don't have a smart phone, I don't go on long vacations, I only buy a new PC every 5 or 6 years, I only have basic plus cable, and so on. IOW, I limit my expenses and spend my personal money on certain models that are worth it to me. I'd rather have the NH L-1 2-10-2 that I've had for almost 20 years than a week's camping or unlimited data on my cell.Also, by focusing only on the NH, I don't spend money on hobby things that might otherwise attack my wallet. I see those NS heritage units, and I think they're pretty cool, but I don't buy 'em. I like those Walthers name trains because I'm a sucker for a matched set of equipment, but none of them are in my possession. It's kind of weird, but by concentrating on getting only the best NH models, I actually save a lot of money.
Paul3 riogrande5761,I am hardly in the top 3% of wages. I worked retail for 25 years, and that's not exactly the path to fame, glory, and riches. More like . But I save my pennies and get a piece when I can get one. Heck, I picked up my first couple of brass steam engines back when I was still in High School. I won't deny that I've been very lucky to score some deals on brass. I was given a couple pieces as presents, I inherited a few from friends who've passed on (not my preferred method at all), and I received one in exchange for doing R&D work in getting it made in the first place. I go to half a dozen train shows a year as a dealer, and I've occasionally found a gem for good money. But I've been collecting NH brass for over 20 years and not all of them have been lucky finds. You're bound to find some deals as long as you keep trying. While I do have a lot of capital tied up in brass models, I don't have a layout any more. And even when I did, there wasn't much on it other than plywood and buildings. I also don't have a smart phone, I don't go on long vacations, I only buy a new PC every 5 or 6 years, I only have basic plus cable, and so on. IOW, I limit my expenses and spend my personal money on certain models that are worth it to me. I'd rather have the NH L-1 2-10-2 that I've had for almost 20 years than a week's camping or unlimited data on my cell.Also, by focusing only on the NH, I don't spend money on hobby things that might otherwise attack my wallet. I see those NS heritage units, and I think they're pretty cool, but I don't buy 'em. I like those Walthers name trains because I'm a sucker for a matched set of equipment, but none of them are in my possession. It's kind of weird, but by concentrating on getting only the best NH models, I actually save a lot of money. Paul A. Cutler III
Paul,
I only have two pieces of brass, but I agree with every word you said about how you "choose" to aford what you want.
I too only buy what fits the layout theme. Brass or not brass, I have a lot tied up in model train locos, 133 of them at last count. But like you said, its what I don't buy that allows me to do that.
My wife and I "skip" lots of stuff other people consider "necessary" so we can each do and have what we want - not what others think we should want.
I have never gotten less than 6 years out of a computer - when I do buy one, I go big, fast and full featured - and they then last a long time before they become obsolete for my limited needs. Just bought one 2 yeasrs ago, the one it replaced was over 10 years old.....
As I said in my original post to this thread, there are a few brass pieces I'm on the lookout for.
Even my wife understands, when I buy model train stuff - $5 or $500 - it is all part of giant puzzle, not just a random collection......
Sheldon
Ive found that brass is the only way to get a faithful reproduction of B&M steam locomotives (except USRA 0-6-0s and 0-8-0s, and the Bachmann 0-6-0 with slope back tender, close enough after modifications). Things like B&M 4-4-2 Trailers and P-2, P-3, P-4 Pacifics (wish I could afford them), are not available outside brass.
There are enough Athearn Genesis, Proto 2000 and Intermountain Diesels that have sufficient detail to make purchase of most brass B&M diesels not worth the investment in my opinion.
These are my brass purchasing opinions.
PRR8259 Well, I believe this is where clear goal setting and planning--having some kind of plan--comes in, along with smart shopping. One can occasionally find a good deal on Rio Grande brass standard gauge steamers. I think if one wants to go in a certain model train direction, and has the time and patience to wait rather than obtain instant or short term gratification, one can actually locate some of those rare steamers affordably. Respectfully submitted-- John Mock
I think if one wants to go in a certain model train direction, and has the time and patience to wait rather than obtain instant or short term gratification, one can actually locate some of those rare steamers affordably.
John, I am mildly interested in D&RGW "history", I have at various times taken a peek at steam era modeling just out of curiosity. It is evident, as you noted, it would require clear goal setting, smart shopping, learning some new skills and selling off most of my current collection to begin moving into D&RGW steam era modeling. Being mildly intersted has never been enough to make me totally loose my mind and abandon my life long interest in modeling second generation diesel era SP & D&RGW. I do try to use goal setting, smart shopping etc. to achieve my present goals too and it's less complicated and expensive to boot.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
During the 1960s I started buying Southern Pacific Brass Locomotives for modeling the early 1950s, had about 10 locomotives. I like to run them in heavy Freight and Passenger trains on a club layout. but not a collector. Some engines would run okay and others not, always tinkering with them, got tired of dealing with poor running gear. I switched to modeling first generation diesel during the 1960s and scraped the steam, sold it off anyway. Athearn went from rubber band drive to a gear running, later added flywheels for smother running. Then Proto 2000 came out with their first diesels, with handrails and grab irons. Nowadays only one brass engine left running on the layout, a diesel Baldwin AS616 modified with a can motor and flywheels, about the best brass runner I ever had for a brass thing. With my layout in full operation the latest diesel I’m enjoying is a Broadway Limited, SW1500 w/sound.
riogrande5761--
I was not trying to say that you don't use goal setting, smart shopping, etc., so I hope you didn't take it that way.
As applied to brass models, I've seen on other forums/topics people discussing buying an entire fleet of say as many as 50 of those new Scale Trains tank cars...then I can't help but wonder if some of them might be among those who say "I can't afford brass"...when in reality they are just buying what they like, period. To me, anybody that can afford 50 or so of a new state-of-the-art freight car really wouldn't have any issue affording the occasional brass model.
It's a question of priorities: Do you need a massive fleet of this, that and the other thing? Or would a few lesser items, but of high value or quality, achieve the same level of enjoyment/bang-for-the-buck?
I think we all answer that question in different ways.
The only thing I'm not happy about with the new brass hybrid is it has a bit of a noisy drivetrain...
John
John,And yet the BLI I-5 and I-4 brass hybrids are gems right out of the box. They are superb models in both looks and operation.
Don't be so quick to dismiss brass hybrids based on one example. All manufacturers make lemons from time to time. I've had an Atlas H16-44 that buzzed very loudly at low speeds, but every other Atlas I've owned has been a great runner. If I had bought that H16-44 that buzzed first and then sworn off Atlas because of it, I'd of missed out on the couple dozen Atlas engines that I really enjoy.
Yes John... I do get it. Really it depends - even goal setting and prioritizing would not have allowed me to model steam era D&RGW in past years; I wouldn't have been able to afford it - trust me - it would have taken several years of saving all of my modeling budget just to get one older issue brass steam engine and then it ain't no good it there is no rolling stock or track or anything else. Any way you roll it, brass does require some scratch. My budget is a little better in the past ten years so probably, if I sold most of my fleet and got educated and a new set of skills, I might be able to manage something now, but I don't have an interest in modeling steam era so it's moot.
Well, born during 1968, I have always been primarily a "diesel guy", but have at times dabbled in steam. To make the story short: there were recent Athearn Genesis and also rtr diesels that I really really wanted to buy, but their absolutely deplorable QA/QC resulted in my saying "you know, I might as well just do steam and buy what I like/can actually get in brass". I know there's engines I can't get or the layout won't accommodate, but, why not?
Funny thing is, the Athearn Genesis steam is actually better on the QA/QC end than the diesels--generally much much better. Perhaps it's the complex paint jobs and masking on the diesels that get them, I don't fully understand (that and the sloppy glue issues).
In any case, I'm 47 and trying to make the switch to a mostly brass steam-oriented railroad. I've been on the diesel "wagon" for about 8 months now, and even my son is down to just one ACL purple/silver E8A. It's the last diesel we have, and will stay to pull an ACL consist...
Paul--thank you, your comments about the fine New Haven hybrids are duly noted.
I have two brass steam locos that require disassembly, testing and repair. A Key ACL P5 Pacific and an Overland SR 2-8-0. They have not been run or disassembled since my acquisition years ago. Where can I view/acquire an exploded schematic of these models before I tackle this task. There's no hobby shop nearby. Thanks for any help.
Ed
Since most brass locomotives arrived here already built, it's unlikely that you'll find any drawings or service instructions. Each model would have been handcrafted.
Basic disassembly of most of them is pretty simple. usually two machine screws at the rear plate beneath the cab, and one up through the frame and cylinders and into the smokebox. If there's a lead truck, it will probably need to be removed to gain access to the latter screw. Make sketches as you take it apart and keep track of where each screw is supposed to go - this will aid in re-assembly.
Wayne
doctorwayne Since most brass locomotives arrived here already built, it's unlikely that you'll find any drawings or service instructions. Each model would have been handcrafted. Basic disassembly of most of them is pretty simple. usually two machine screws at the rear plate beneath the cab, and one up through the frame and cylinders and into the smokebox. If there's a lead truck, it will probably need to be removed to gain access to the latter screw. Make sketches as you take it apart and keep track of where each screw is supposed to go - this will aid in re-assembly. Wayne
Thanks for the timely response Wayne, ...and the good advice.
I can echo the sentiments about being focused in one's model railroading goals. Though I've had many dreams of basement empires, I elected to stick to a narrow and tight focus concerning prototypes. I love Pennsy steam in the early '50s and passenger train operations so I'm sticking with that and not much else. I've found it helpful in many ways to be so tightly focused and create a quality collection vs. A large one without much focus. That's just what works for me personally. Aside the trains I love collecting miniature autos, and Preiser figure sets. Though both would fit in with the train models of course.
Alvie
PRR8259 riogrande5761-- I was not trying to say that you don't use goal setting, smart shopping, etc., so I hope you didn't take it that way. As applied to brass models, I've seen on other forums/topics people discussing buying an entire fleet of say as many as 50 of those new Scale Trains tank cars...then I can't help but wonder if some of them might be among those who say "I can't afford brass"...when in reality they are just buying what they like, period. To me, anybody that can afford 50 or so of a new state-of-the-art freight car really wouldn't have any issue affording the occasional brass model. It's a question of priorities: Do you need a massive fleet of this, that and the other thing? Or would a few lesser items, but of high value or quality, achieve the same level of enjoyment/bang-for-the-buck? I think we all answer that question in different ways. Personally, I'm now very disappointed in a brand new BLI Brass Hybrid GN 4-8-4. It looks amazing but runs poorly in comparison to my other BLI engines that cost half as much. The motor noise is so loud in both DCC and DC that it drowns out the sound system. The model surges as the throttle is advanced in either DC or DCC mode--the speed curve is not what I would call "smooth". There seem to be issues with either the chuff sensor or the calibration of it, as the sound appears to be erratic. The BLI brass hybrid simply does not run as well as their heavier diecast offerings like the 2-8-0. Clean track, clean wheels and copious amounts of electrically conductive lubricant on the track, combined with checking the plug, did not result in an improvement of the performance of the brass hybrid. As I sit here tonight, I may never try another "brass hybrid" after being so disgusted with this one. It's making the full out all-brass models appear to be a generally better value! John
Personally, I'm now very disappointed in a brand new BLI Brass Hybrid GN 4-8-4. It looks amazing but runs poorly in comparison to my other BLI engines that cost half as much. The motor noise is so loud in both DCC and DC that it drowns out the sound system. The model surges as the throttle is advanced in either DC or DCC mode--the speed curve is not what I would call "smooth". There seem to be issues with either the chuff sensor or the calibration of it, as the sound appears to be erratic. The BLI brass hybrid simply does not run as well as their heavier diecast offerings like the 2-8-0. Clean track, clean wheels and copious amounts of electrically conductive lubricant on the track, combined with checking the plug, did not result in an improvement of the performance of the brass hybrid.
As I sit here tonight, I may never try another "brass hybrid" after being so disgusted with this one. It's making the full out all-brass models appear to be a generally better value!
I bought a couple of the new Hybride S2 BLI Great Northern engines and have had no problems with mine.
After a initial breakin period I cleaned all of the lubricants from the drivers and then applied a small amount of Nano Oil to the axles and also to the rod assemblies.
As far as the motor itself, it is almost silent with the sound turned off, I can barely hear the motor. Perhaps this is your problem. In regard to the sound I have no complaints at all, in fact I am very impressed with the quality of the sound in my two engines. I really think that you should be getting in touch with BLI.
These locomotives in my opinion have as good running characteristics as my other steam BLI locomotives.
Perhaps there is something wrong with your locomotive. Check with BLI. I have no complaints at all with my S2 hybrids. If BLI produces any more that would suite my layout roster I would buy them immediately.
I cleaned the tender wheels to remove any grime whatsoever and ran the GN S-2 4-8-4 some more last night. The motor and drivetrain are indeed "noisy". As speed is increased, the noise becomes more noticeable. The engine may be "running in". However, at passenger train speeds of say 70 or 80 smph, whether in DC or DCC, the gear noise is sufficient to drown out the sound.
I do not have a decibel meter, but this S-2's drivetrain seems to be very nearly twice as loud with extraneous noise as the two new BLI H10s 2-8-0's on hand, which are indeed quiet.
My son wants it to stay, so we'll see if it runs better after it gets more time on it.
Hopefully, BLI will send one of the new GN S-2 hybrides to Model Railroader for their review and we can tell if if excess noise is typical or limited to a few of these models.
You comments that while hauling a few cars the noise drowns out the sound sure is not representitive of my locomotives, good sound, minimum electric motor noise.
Have you checked your gears, I remember a few years ago Bachmann was having problems, they used way too much gear lube on a few of their engines, this resulted in excess noise as well.
As far as the sound quality, my sound is every bit as good as the promo video from BLI on the S2 engine.
https://www.facebook.com/BroadwayLimited/videos
FYI, I was very recently in contact with BLI and after talking to the rep, your sound problem is not typical of that model. Give BLI a call or fill out one of their service requests. They will help you sort out the sound problem you are experiencing.
Hello don7 and others--
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll only send something back if there's real problems, as this looks like an easily damaged model, cosmetically speaking. Sometimes it's better to try to run them in.
We'll see what happens after more running time...it's still a noisy drivetrain for me, but is running more smoothly than it was before.
Well, I told myself that I could never afford brass and I didn't want to deal with getting them to run properly. Then up comes an eBay listing for a beautifully painted Dominion Atlantic 4-6-0, and it is named 'Dave'. According to the seller it runs very well.
I put in a bid in the vain hope that it might go cheap, but alas the highest bid is now twice what I offered.
Oh well, that's life. I'm disappointed but not heartbroken.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
PRR8259 Hello don7 and others-- Thanks for the suggestion. I'll only send something back if there's real problems, as this looks like an easily damaged model, cosmetically speaking. Sometimes it's better to try to run them in. We'll see what happens after more running time...it's still a noisy drivetrain for me, but is running more smoothly than it was before. John
John,
FWIW, I would contact BLI via e-mail and describe to them your problem(s) and what you've tried so far. They may have some additional suggestions for you to try, or may tell you to box it up and send it into them for repair. I prefer the e-mail approach because it then documents the issues for them in writting (paper trail) vs. describing it over the phone, which can easily be forgotten.
I've sent 2 or 3 BLI steamers back to BLI for repair (because they arrived with either a decoder or machanical problem) and they have repaired each of them to my satisfaction. You may have to wait a few weeks before it returns but it's worth a better operating steamer. Sending it back also helps BLI know what QA issues need to be tightened up for future runs.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
On the bright side, the difference between even the brass hybrids and the regular diecast/plastic models is truly huge...night and day.
My 9 year old son just loves the brass hybrid with its outstanding glacier green paint scheme. The soldering, while a couple out of the way imperfections are there, is much cleaner than even what Ajin Precision was doing on steam power for Overland Models and others a decade or so ago, and this is delivered at a great price.
So having one brass hybrid on hand, from a detail perspective, does actually make me desire to have all my steam power looking that good.
Best Regards--
I forgot to mention that all of the repairs were FREE of charge.
Hello tstage--
Yes, thank you, I have sent engines back to BLI before...removed bottom cover plate (only 5 screws). Lubrication appears to be adequate though only some kind of clear (colorless) oil. Metal gears look to be ok. Added Labelle 106 grease with teflon. I think these just are very noisy gears - metal on metal. They are relatively quiet at low speed (for instance at the speeds used in Youtube video reviews) but at higher speeds there appears to be considerable noise.
Absolutely gorgeous model in appearance. I think I'd still buy it and just live with the noise. Wish they didn't bother with the sound though. My Kato track tends to amplify any drivetrain noises, but...
If I had the cash I'd probably buy another one anyway.
jecorbett dknelson tstage Dave & jecorbett, I've used both the X-acto aluminum miter box with their precision razor saw blade and the NWSL Chopper II to make precision cuts: Tom Tom and jec: the Miter Box from Micro Mark I was talking about is their new one, hardly thicker than my little finger:. They called it the world's smallest miter box and just introduced it. Here is their description: Our Micro Miter Box is sized exclusively for model builders working with micro-size materials. Make the finest 30, 45 and 90 degree miter cuts you've ever seen in wood, metal and plastic strips, rods and tubes up to .235 inch wide x any length! Excellent for cutting brass tubing . . . especially very short pieces used for mast bands and other items. Includes adjustable stop for making duplicate cuts quickly and easily. Works best with our Ultra Fine Saw Blades (#85853, sold separately). Approx. 3-9/16 inches long x 5/8 inches wide x 3/16 inch high. But now I see from their website it is sold out and discontinued! Sorry for the dead end recommendation. Dave Nelson Dave, I was going to ask if you had actually used it but that seems pointless now. As I was reading the description I thought I was going to have to choose between that set up and their power mini-chopsaw. I guess the decision has been made for me. Although $73 is a lot to pay for something I don't think I will use that much, I think it will be quite a time saver in addition to giving me precision square cuts so that might make it worthwhile. The project I have in mind is a large 12" x 13" hotel with lots of timber framing. It's been quite a while since I've had to cut a lot of 1/8" lumber but my recollection is it takes quite a few passes with the razor saw to cut clean through it. I can see a power saw saving me many hours as well as giving me much cleaner cuts.
dknelson tstage Dave & jecorbett, I've used both the X-acto aluminum miter box with their precision razor saw blade and the NWSL Chopper II to make precision cuts: Tom Tom and jec: the Miter Box from Micro Mark I was talking about is their new one, hardly thicker than my little finger:. They called it the world's smallest miter box and just introduced it. Here is their description: Our Micro Miter Box is sized exclusively for model builders working with micro-size materials. Make the finest 30, 45 and 90 degree miter cuts you've ever seen in wood, metal and plastic strips, rods and tubes up to .235 inch wide x any length! Excellent for cutting brass tubing . . . especially very short pieces used for mast bands and other items. Includes adjustable stop for making duplicate cuts quickly and easily. Works best with our Ultra Fine Saw Blades (#85853, sold separately). Approx. 3-9/16 inches long x 5/8 inches wide x 3/16 inch high. But now I see from their website it is sold out and discontinued! Sorry for the dead end recommendation. Dave Nelson
tstage Dave & jecorbett, I've used both the X-acto aluminum miter box with their precision razor saw blade and the NWSL Chopper II to make precision cuts: Tom
Dave & jecorbett,
I've used both the X-acto aluminum miter box with their precision razor saw blade and the NWSL Chopper II to make precision cuts:
Dave,
I was going to ask if you had actually used it but that seems pointless now. As I was reading the description I thought I was going to have to choose between that set up and their power mini-chopsaw. I guess the decision has been made for me. Although $73 is a lot to pay for something I don't think I will use that much, I think it will be quite a time saver in addition to giving me precision square cuts so that might make it worthwhile. The project I have in mind is a large 12" x 13" hotel with lots of timber framing. It's been quite a while since I've had to cut a lot of 1/8" lumber but my recollection is it takes quite a few passes with the razor saw to cut clean through it. I can see a power saw saving me many hours as well as giving me much cleaner cuts.
March, 2017 Update:
After much running, and a second application by myself of lubricant to the gearbox, the BLI GN S-2 4-8-4 hybrid runs much better than I previously reported. It is still not quiet, at least not compared to the recent (full brass) models from Boo Rim, and the gear noise can still drown out the sound, but it is much improved from what it was. There was no evidence of any unusual gear wear patterns. Also, my son wanted it and asked me to keep it and sell plastic steamers instead, so how could I not let him have it? I just learned today that the prototype was capable of above 100 mph running, and the BLI model certainly does not disappoint in the speed end--especially compared to the other brass models out there, which generally, for new stuff, are geared to run s-l-o-w-ly. For those who want to run alot, the BLI engines can be a good value for the money.
I have spent the last year diligently researching what is out there on the market in ho brass or hybrid steam, frequently checking brasstrains website, and the evil auction sites. I have a pretty good idea, now, of exactly what I want to buy and what they are allegedly worth, but there are surprises like the Boo Rim steamer just listed on Ebay for $650 less than what both myself and another buyer just paid to buy the same engine from brasstrains...can't let that one get away.
So I guess I have to be more selective in buying, and troll Ebay more as there can be good value on there.
In the last year I have thinned my HO plastic down to just 10 freight cars and a Proto ATSF GP-7 "beater engine". Sheldon can laugh all he wants, but selling little used plastic Rapido (rare) passenger cars (no longer needed by my son) and all kinds of other stuff netted me over $1600 and paid for a really nice Boo Rim steamer. I'd sell the stuff again, too. I'm just happier running my admittedly small but growing roster of (hybrid and brass) steam. I have a mint, little used pro trumpet that will also convert nicely to brass steam, as I no longer play...
Now, are there any online forums or websites just for HO brass train aficionados? I found one but it appears to be very little patronized, if at all. Are there any others? Where online do the real collectors hang out? Or do they just not bother online, and prefer to remain anonymous?
Open to learning more,
PRR8259Open to learning more,
If you cant find it, have you considered building it yourself? I've found that the particular things I am looking for are probably not going to ever be made in plastic or brass, so I will have to make them myself.
John, buying and selling "used", or previously owned NIB stuff is a hobby all of its own that does not interest me. I know what I like and want, so I don't have anything I "don't need anymore" or are "bored with".
Maybe you did OK, good for you, but simply keeping your money in your pocket for what you "really" want seems so much easier to me.
I don't own any Rapido passenger cars, likely never will, not on my want list. I don't need to own a few to know that, rare or not.....
Don't need any Boo Rim steamers either.......
But, I don't "collect" model trains, I'm building a model railroad..........
And, respectfully, I likely have a different view of children and model trains than you do. My 5 year old grandson has his own seperate Bachmann Thomas and Chuggington, my son, now 32, had his own LIONEL layout in his room starting at age 5, seperate from my trains. He had bunk beds, slept on the top, trains on the bottom.
Never worried about the value of a train after I bought it, never lost money on any, because I never really sold off any........never changed scale, era, roadname, so nothing has ever become "obsolete". One goal, one focus.......
I still have structures and rolling stock on my layout that my father bought when I was a child.....and that I bought as a teen......and I will leave it all to my son.......
PRR8259 riogrande5761-- I was not trying to say that you don't use goal setting, smart shopping, etc., so I hope you didn't take it that way. As applied to brass models, I've seen on other forums/topics people discussing buying an entire fleet of say as many as 50 of those new Scale Trains tank cars...then I can't help but wonder if some of them might be among those who say "I can't afford brass"...when in reality they are just buying what they like, period. To me, anybody that can afford 50 or so of a new state-of-the-art freight car really wouldn't have any issue affording the occasional brass model. It's a question of priorities: Do you need a massive fleet of this, that and the other thing? Or would a few lesser items, but of high value or quality, achieve the same level of enjoyment/bang-for-the-buck? I think we all answer that question in different ways. The only thing I'm not happy about with the new brass hybrid is it has a bit of a noisy drivetrain... John
So 10 months ago you posed a question. Well in my case running my 40 car trains is what makes me happy. So one loco and 10 freight cars, no matter how nice, is simply not going to do it for me.
Those 40 car freight trains need power, lots of it. Most steam trains on my layout are pulled by double headers, most diesel trains by 3-4 unit lashups.
With staging for 30 trains, average of three locos per train, 130 powered units is not really all that many locos. And 30 trains times 40 cars........well actually some are passenger trains, so about 800 freight cars and almost 200 passenger cars........
Piggyback flat cars alone, I have enough for an east bound train, a west bound train, and a train worth in the yard......
Truthfully, I'm pretty much done buying locos and rolling stock, there are only a few items left on my rolling stock/loco wish list.