Here's another shot of the roof details. Those are definatly ice/snow shields.
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
zstripe richhotrain So, if not laquer thinner or MEK, then what? Contact cement? Rich http://www.hobbylinc.com/plastruct-plastiweld-1-plastic-model-cement-00002?source=froogle&gclid=Cj0KEQiAoby1BRDA
richhotrain So, if not laquer thinner or MEK, then what? Contact cement? Rich
http://www.hobbylinc.com/plastruct-plastiweld-1-plastic-model-cement-00002?source=froogle&gclid=Cj0KEQiAoby1BRDA
Rich
Alton Junction
Rich I don't know if you have ever came across an older gentleman over at AMR , hes passed away now but he use to do scratch building using cereal box cardboard for the wall bases and glue the strip wood on , really came out looking great.
Lynn
Present Layout progress
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/290127/3372174.aspx#3372174
richhotrain zstripe richhotrain So, if not laquer thinner or MEK, then what? Contact cement? Rich http://www.hobbylinc.com/plastruct-plastiweld-1-plastic-model-cement-00002?source=froogle&gclid=Cj0KEQiAoby1BRDA Frank, that is a great recommendation. Picked up bottle of Plastiweld, and it really does a great job. Fast setting, but enough time to adjust and align. Rich
Frank, that is a great recommendation. Picked up bottle of Plastiweld, and it really does a great job. Fast setting, but enough time to adjust and align.
Glad it worked for You Rich.....been using it for a long time. If You want super strong joints..lightly sand both mating surfaces and the welding qualities of the adhesive, will be deeper in the mating surfaces.
I still use Ambroid Pro-Weld for some projects...but the plastic weld is stronger. I have even used it on painted surfaces.....again lightly sand both mating surfaces, You don't have to take the paint off....it will still weld into the joint. I air-brush all My buildings/structures before gluing together and it has always worked for Me. I apply the adhesive to the inside edge of the sanded part and capillary action does the rest....so I don't have adhesive coming out of a corner seam and messing up the paint.
Another tidbit for You, unless You are already using one, is a ''Beam Square'' for scribing and measuring, along with a Plexi-glass cutter, like Red Devil for scribing Styrene/ABS etc.
Micromark carry's Beam Squares and the latter/Home Depot/Menards etc.
Beam Square: A little pricey, but worth it's weight in gold, for precision cuts:
http://www.micromark.com/thin-beam-square,8426.html
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Plaskolite-Cutting-Tool-for-Plastic-Sheets-1999999A/100542314
Have Fun!
Frank
I am going to start a new thread to discuss my experience in scratch building the mansion. But, just before I do, I want to thank everybody for their replies.
Notable mention goes to the following three guys whose recommendations really facilitated my first scratch building project.
Ed - 7j43k - His suggestion was to laminate 0.20" siding and roof pieces to 0.40" styrene sheet for stability. That really makes a difference.
Frank - zstripe - Plastruct Plastic Weld, Orange bottle...it contains MEK. That was Frank's suggestion, and that stuff is awesome for laminating styrene sheets together.
Dave - hon30critter - His suggestion was to buy a nibbler tool to cut out window and door openings. I don't know how you cut out those openings without such a tool.
Thanks again, all.