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1st Time Scratch Building - Need Basic Info

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  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Denver, CO
  • 3,576 posts
Posted by Motley on Thursday, February 4, 2016 7:59 PM

Here's another shot of the roof details. Those are definatly ice/snow shields.

Michael


CEO-
Mile-HI-Railroad
Prototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Saturday, February 13, 2016 8:20 AM

zstripe
 
 
richhotrain
So, if not laquer thinner or MEK, then what?  Contact cement?  Rich

http://www.hobbylinc.com/plastruct-plastiweld-1-plastic-model-cement-00002?source=froogle&gclid=Cj0KEQiAoby1BRDA

Frank, that is a great recommendation. Picked up bottle of Plastiweld, and it really does a great job. Fast setting, but enough time to adjust and align.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Canada
  • 1,284 posts
Posted by wickman on Saturday, February 13, 2016 8:47 AM

Rich I don't know if you have ever  came  across an older gentleman over at AMR ,  hes passed  away  now but  he use to do scratch building using cereal box  cardboard for the wall  bases and glue  the strip wood on  , really came out looking great.

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
  • 7,712 posts
Posted by zstripe on Saturday, February 13, 2016 1:30 PM

richhotrain

 

 
zstripe
 
 
richhotrain
So, if not laquer thinner or MEK, then what?  Contact cement?  Rich

http://www.hobbylinc.com/plastruct-plastiweld-1-plastic-model-cement-00002?source=froogle&gclid=Cj0KEQiAoby1BRDA

 

 

Frank, that is a great recommendation. Picked up bottle of Plastiweld, and it really does a great job. Fast setting, but enough time to adjust and align.

 

Rich

 

Glad it worked for You Rich.....been using it for a long time. If You want super strong joints..lightly sand both mating surfaces and the welding qualities of the adhesive, will be deeper in the mating surfaces.

I still use Ambroid Pro-Weld for some projects...but the plastic weld is stronger. I have even used it on painted surfaces.....again lightly sand both mating surfaces, You don't have to take the paint off....it will still weld into the joint. I air-brush all My buildings/structures before gluing together and it has always worked for Me. I apply the adhesive to the inside edge of the sanded part and capillary action does the rest....so I don't have adhesive coming out of a corner seam and messing up the paint.

Another tidbit for You, unless You are already using one, is a ''Beam Square'' for scribing and measuring, along with a Plexi-glass cutter, like Red Devil for scribing Styrene/ABS etc.

Micromark carry's Beam Squares and the latter/Home Depot/Menards etc.

Beam Square: A little pricey, but worth it's weight in gold, for precision cuts:

http://www.micromark.com/thin-beam-square,8426.html

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Plaskolite-Cutting-Tool-for-Plastic-Sheets-1999999A/100542314

 

Have Fun! Big Smile

Frank

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Tuesday, February 23, 2016 3:34 PM

I am going to start a new thread to discuss my experience in scratch building the mansion. But, just before I do, I want to thank everybody for their replies.

Notable mention goes to the following three guys whose recommendations really facilitated my first scratch building project.

Ed - 7j43k - His suggestion was to laminate 0.20" siding and roof pieces to 0.40" styrene sheet for stability. That really makes a difference.

Frank - zstripe - Plastruct Plastic Weld, Orange bottle...it contains MEK. That was Frank's suggestion, and that stuff is awesome for laminating styrene sheets together.

Dave - hon30critter - His suggestion was to buy a nibbler tool to cut out window and door openings.  I don't know how you cut out those openings without such a tool.

Thanks again, all.

Rich

Alton Junction

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