Paul -
I'm not sure that anyone ever gets it right the first time, so I don't recommend that you set that as a goal. It seems to me that a lot of guys eventually finish their "dream" layout and then get bored, so tear it down and start all over again. Also, things change. Partly due to this I would suggest that you resist the idea of even considering a layout until you have a lot more experience and a better idea of what components of the hobby you enjoy - it sounds like electronics might be a good candidate there.
Before thinking about 6 x 14 or any particular large dimensions, I think you might be better off for now just to build a small (even the "classic" 4' x 8') tabletop layout, lay some track, do the wiring, build some structures, run some trains, decide if you prefer switching or just watching the trains run (or maybe a bit of each?), and get some experience before you decide what (if?) you might want to build and operate in the larger space you have available.
While some guys build many railroads, too many others never finish their first - there's many photos and videos online of trains running through bare wood (maybe some cardboard mock-up structures here and there) on tracks without ballast, and some/many of them are never going to make any more progress - for varied reasons. Try to see if there are any clubs and/or train shows around you - try to sample as much of what other people are doing as possible.
Another possibility is seeing if there is an HO modular group near you, as a 2' x 4' module allows you to develop/apply all the skillsets that a larger layout requires, but in a format that provides much quicker results and in a very supportive learning environment. I would include both a loop and a switching district in that first small layout to help you decide what you enjoy most. There are many recent plans for small layouts that use a sheet of plywood, but cut up and rearranged - as an L or some other shape.
One thing you'll discover is how you feel about long cars (i.e. passenger cars) going around too small a radius - if you're at all into passenger trains, that will help you decide if you're going to use 4' or 6' as the width of the larger layout. You may decide you like the distinct charms of narrow gauge - On30 has been booming for over a decade.
As you observed, there's a lot out there and it's getting more complex all the time. Take some time to observe and explore and ponder before you make any rushed long-term decisions. If you're going to have regrets, make sure they're over that first small "test" - learning layout.
Charles
> I know I don't want to do a prototype (I learned that word from the books I'm reading). What I want is a layout with a mountain, a tunnel, several buildings, and some water. Just a fantasy railroad.
Be aware that what you want may well change through your continuing investigation, or perhaps how you implement it. You say "fantasy", but there are exceedingly few (any?) true fantasy model railroads. They all contain objects that look like trains, structures, landscape, and people - in short, some level of representation of our real world, except that there's almost always a lot more RR track per sq. ft. than there is in reality - unless you're standing in an active yard. Perhaps my favorite true fantasy model railroad is Pirate's Cove here: http://carendt.us/scrapbook/page100/index.html and there are several others in this particular "scrapbook" that are certainly in the fantasy realm. The whole site is worth checking out, and you could do worse than making your first layout a micro, although you would definitely need a different engine!
I'd say the differences are in the level of overall planning, which is related to the person's ambitions, and the level of accomplishment, which is also related to ambition, but filtered through the levels of skill, imagination and commitment. Some guys aim to have everything "perfect", while Allen McClelland was fond of the phrase "good enough", basically meaning that he was happy if it met his own needs, and it didn't matter what anyone else thought - althougth I suspect he was very much conscious of it.
Welcome to the forums and model railroading.
Sounds like you are starting out on the right foot, reading and asking before spending a lot of money. My plans got changed, mid-stream, with a son returning home to live. I had bought when a large space was available. Space disappeared before I got to use it, now I am overstocked (and a bit frustrated).
When you are look at your space, don't forget to concider an around the room shelf. This takes up very little floor space and there are some pretty fantastic layouts on shelves less than 2' wide. If you have the space you can put blobs at the ends (or wherever they fit) and a penninsula or two if you have a lot of space. There are several "gates" that can allow you access to your layout and not have to duck under, if there is a door that you need to pass through.
Also, concider having your layout fairly high off the floor. Saves a lot of bending over and puts the layout at a more realistic viewing angle. My plan is to have it at a level to be about chest height when I am sitting on a high stool, working a yard or some such. That makes it low enough to be able to reach over scenery to adjust things should the need arise.
When planning layout height, use your height and reach as guides. If you have a lot of delicate scenery to reach over to get to tracks, think a little lower. For desert with little vertical scenery, you can go higher.
Have fun,
Richard
Hello Paul,
Welcome to the hobby and welcome to the MRR forums. It's great hobby and a great group as you are finding out. Since you are in my neck of the woods I want to inform you that the Southeastern railway train museum is located in Duluth,GA north of Atlanta http://srmduluth.org/default.shtml
I have been part of the volunteer train crew for a few years now and there is much to see and do. The museum sits just off the NS mainline and features about 80 pieces of rolling stock, a train ride on 1 to 1 scale equipment, numerous vintage RR equipment and memorablia, a large model railroad and so much more.
So if you are interested in visiting the museum I am usually there on Thursdays and Saturday mornings. The admission fee is extremely reasonable including the train ride and possbile cab ride(space permitting). Send me a private message that you are coming and I will roll out the red carpet for you (and guests) to give you a 1 to 1 tour of the property. Don't forget to bring your camera there is much to photograph and you never know if a NS Heritage unit will pass by our front gate.
John R
PS This is the first time I am doing this so I would like to extend the offer to all forum members who plan to be in the area. Check the Museum website for days, hours of operationa and special events.
John R.
Paul_in_GA My goal is to learn from others, books, & DVDs and not make any mistakes when I build it.
My goal is to learn from others, books, & DVDs and not make any mistakes when I build it.
LOL
If you can accomplish that, you will be the only member of this forum who can say that you made no mistakes when you built your layout.
Trust me, you will make mistakes. The key is to learn from those mistakes.
Rich
Alton Junction
Be patient with answers to your responses as many Model Railroaders speak in a jargon of MR, in your questions tell them you are a novice and do not know the meanings of certain terms eg: turnouts for switches, etc,
It's a shame I can't answer each message in this forum. I don't see how. I spend time on other forums doing other things and I have never seen forum software like this but oh well...
I just want to thank all of you who have helped me so far and what I do is copy and paste your replies into a Pages document (I use a Mac) and print them out for reference. So far you people have given me a lot of good information. Believe me, I will be asking a lot of questions.
This is what I have gathered so far over the past few months:
Scenery
Woodland Scenics - Coarse Turf - T63
Woodland Scenics - (Scene-A-Rama) Low Growth Plant Base
Woodland Scenics - Lightweight Hydrocal - C1202
Woodland Scenics - Plaster Cloth - C1203
Paint
Createx Airbrush Colors - Medium Gray - 2 fl. oz. - 8MC21-28(01)
Createx Airbrush Colors - Light Brown - 2 fl. oz. - GLD11-34
Createx Airbrush Colors - Sand - 2 fl. oz. - GMB27-29(01)
Createx Airbrush Colors - (Wicked Colors) - Detail Smoke Black - 2 fl. oz. 0072
Chalk
General's Multi Pastel - 12 Earth, Portrait, & Skin Tones - 94012ABP
Tools
Woodland Scenics - Scenic Sprayer S192 - 8 oz.
Walthers - HO gauge - 98-1
Woodland Scenics - Tunnel Liner Form mold - C1250
Woodland Scenics - Hot Wire Foam Cutter - ST1435
Woodland Scenics - Foam cutter Bow & Guide - ST1437
Woodland Scenics - Earth Color Kit - 785-1215
Woodland Scenics - Classic Rock Mold - C1236
Woodland Scenics - Embankments Rock Mold - C1233
Woodland Scenics - Outcroppings Rock Mold - C1230
Woodland Scenics - Base Rock Mold - C1243
Woodland Scenics - Low Temp Foam Glue Gun - WOOST1445
Airbrush Spray Booth
Pasche single action airbrush
DVD's
Woodland Scenics SubTerrain - WOOST 1400
Walthers - Brick & Mortar industrial buildings - Paper models - 217-4111
Books
Model Railroader - The DCC Guide Don Fiehmann
Model Railroader - Introduction to Model Railroading - Jeff Nelson
Walther's 2012 catalog/reference book
Kalmbach books - Basic Scenery for Model Railroaders - 12233
Kalmbach books - Basic Trackwork for Model Railroaders - 12254
Kalmbach books - Basic Structure Modeling - 12258
Woodland Scenics - The Scenery Manual - C1207
Woodland Scenics - SubTerrain Manual - ST1402
Structures
Walthers - Townhouse kit #3 - 785-1215
Kits
Woodland Scenics - Ready Grass vinyl mat - Landscape kit - RG5152
Woodland Scenics - The Scenery Kit - S927
Locomotives
Atlas CSX U23B #8260 DCC Locomotive, Road #3243 - USED
Hey Paul, welcome to the forum and the hobby.
Getting back to the locomotive. You bought what should be one of the best running locomotives made, and one that is well detailed. Atlas' are my personal favorites, so I commend your decision.
I don't do DCC, but it I suppose it would be a good idea to find out what type of decoder has been installed.
You will need to remove the shell of the locomotive. One minor drawback to Atlas brand locomotives is the 2 part shell they use, which can break the thin handrails if you mishandle the shell removal.
A few MRR terms here...... For Atlas shells, the walkway and sill (the lower part) is separate from the top piece that makes up the short hood ( the front of the locomotive), the cab, and the long hood . If the top part becomes separated a lot from the lower part as you remove it, the handrails could kink and break. The handrails span the walkway sill and the cab. You kind of have to hold the 2 pieces together as you squeeze and release the shell tabs.
You can probably do a search on the forum or google to read the best way to remove the shell. While I would not call them delicate, the models do need to be handled correctly. Like anything, it takes some getting used to, and I've done it so much I can just grab them and pop them off quite quickly (after removing the coupler boxes). It will probably take you more time than you'd expect the first time you try. Be patient, handrails are difficult to mend, replacements are hard to find, and they come in grey, which means they need to be painted.
Perhaps your LHS can show you.
- Douglas
Doughless, thank you VERY much.
First, who is LHS?
When I first took it out of the box I was amazed at how heavy it was and how detailed it was. Amazing. Then I looked in the box and on the bottom was an exploded illustrated breakdown. Will that help? I am sure it will seem difficult the first time I do it.
One question though, why do I need to find out what decoder it has in it? I'm sure it matters, I just don't know why yet.
On the end of the box there is a sticker with hand writing in ink saying, "DCC installed #3243". It also says, "Item #8260 U23B Locomotive CSX - Road #3243".
It is used however but I bought it from a very reputable hobby store in Buford, GA called Trainmaster and the people there were very helpful and they had a TON of stuff. It's a sixty mile drive one way but it's all highway and fast so not a problem.
Paul_in_GA Doughless, thank you VERY much. First, who is LHS? When I first took it out of the box I was amazed at how heavy it was and how detailed it was. Amazing. Then I looked in the box and on the bottom was an exploded illustrated breakdown. Will that help? I am sure it will seem difficult the first time I do it. One question though, why do I need to find out what decoder it has in it? I'm sure it matters, I just don't know why yet. On the end of the box there is a sticker with hand writing in ink saying, "DCC installed #3243". It also says, "Item #8260 U23B Locomotive CSX - Road #3243". It is used however but I bought it from a very reputable hobby store in Buford, GA called Trainmaster and the people there were very helpful and they had a TON of stuff. It's a sixty mile drive one way but it's all highway and fast so not a problem.
Was the engine test run at the LHS (Local Hobby Store) on a DDC system? Since it is used, the previous owner may have run it DCC. If so, then you need not open it up. The plug on the dual mode decoder is already moved on the board. Once you do get your DCC system you can program the address to what you want. Usually the engine # works best as you will know what it is. # 3243 for the 4 digit or it may still be set @ factory address #43 ( Atlas uses the last 2 digits for the address.
Edit: just reread your response, The previous owner placed that sticker on the box to identify the address that should be set into the decoder. Hopefully all you need to do, once aquiring your system is to "call" the #3243 address and run.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
LHS means local hobby shop.
Best to listen to a DCC person. I don't know if you need to know the brand of decoder if it is running fine. My comments were focused more on removing the Atlas shell should you have to or choose to, and its effect on the handrails if you are not careful. Some buyers like to open things up.
Your exploded drawing shows tabs with holes that fit into square metal nubbies that project to the inside of the metal frame. The holes grab the nubbies and keep the shell tight. To loosen the shell, (after you remove the couplers and coupler boxes) you need to squeeze its sides as you wiggle the shell upwards. This releases the tabs from the nubbies. The squeeze as you pull upwards while keeping the 2 part shell together takes a bit of patience and practice.
This is stuff that you may not need to know right now. My concern is that you would get curious about the decoder and break some handrails by not knowing that there is a bit of a trick to removing the shell. Be careful with that $75 item.
Bob, take it easy, he said he is new and looking for info and to learn. You're throwing him into the deep end of the pool without any swimming lessons
LOL! You're right, I do sometimes feel like I'm in the deep end of the pool but I DO really appreciate ALL your posts because I am compiling them into documents for reference later. Nothing beats experience and I can tell there is a TON of experience here and I am most appreciative of it.
The next time I go to that shop I will ask him to run it on his DCC layout. I'm sure he's most likely already tested it as they have a great rep. At the time my wife and I, well she actually, was in a rush because of rush hour traffic. Big deal. It never occured to me to ask him to run it. It's only from you guys' questions that have opened my eyes.
I was just reading The DCC Guide and it's very interesting. Thank goodness I had a lot of electronics training otherwise this stuff would be daunting for a new guy. As I go through the chapters he's answering questions I already have. Things like controlling switches, etc. I have a way to go but this is the fun part for me. I like to learn just about everything I can about something when I put my mind to it.
I really enjoy this though. I will be creating my own little world, one of a kind, this to me is awesome and gratifying.
And yes, I AM afraid to attempt opening the locomotive. Next steps would be having it ran on their layout then buying one of the above mentioned controllers along with track and playing around with it. I still have to buy plywood and make a frame but that's easy stuff.
Goin' to bed, thanks guys, a LOT!
leighant
Paul in Ga:
You asked what the "AT410" meant...the numbers in the sections of track divided by the dots signifies the Atlas Track part number. AT410 would be an piece of Atlas Code 83 True Track 9" straight section, as available here as ATL410:
http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detail.asp?Scale=HO&Item=ATLTRUTK&ID=200435994
the switch section {some call the track rail switches "turnouts" to distinguish between a toggle SWITCH and a track rail SWITCH for example} listed there is AT480, which would be Atlas Code 83 True Track # ATL480 as available here:
http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detail.asp?Scale=HO&Item=ATLTRUTK&offset=25&ID=200436014
The AT and ATL are the same meaning, standing for "Atlas".
Now you can use regular Code 83 track - or code 100 for that matter if you like, they have different AT# s though. Atlas True track means it has a gray plastic roadbed embedded with the track. SOme like it, some don't.
Code 83 and code 100 mean only the height of the rail. Code 83 ties are also brown in color, which many think looks more "realistic",and the Code 100 track has black ties. The Code 100 rail is good for extra rail height if you plan to run OLDER HO equipment with deep flanges. If you stick with new equipment you can do well with code 83. There are a few smaller codes,but they are harder to get. Some use code 70, for example, in a yard setting.
~If you want a good inexpensive DCC system, the Digitrax Zephyr Xtra offers 3 amps of usable power for locos. Most new locos will draw fewer amps than older equipment. It cam be available here:
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Digitrax-Zephyr-Xtra-Complete-DCC-Starter-System-w-p/dig-zepx.htm
~Now, one thing to discuss is alley ways to get to the layout,,, you need to have AT LEAST 24" aisle around the layout to get to it,,,even if you are skinny, you can gain weight and/or others who come to see your layout may be "large". so when you plan whatever, allow for a wider alley/aisle to get to it,
~ALSO, if you have a 4 foot layout stuck against the wall, it will be 4 feet deep And you WON'T be abel to get to the backside if you have a derailment, or to scenic it, Most arm reach is limited to 18"-24". Keep that in mind also. If you DO do a 4xwhatever against the wall, put it on wheels so you can pull it out to get tot eh backside.
~also..you wanted a tunnel I believe, leave the tunnel backside OPEN to retrieve any derailed equipment inside it! {or be sure to be able to get to derailed equipment somehow..such as leave tunnel only a few feet so hands can reach in and get any derailed equipment!}. You won't be sorry for this step!
Any more questions, DON'T be afraid to ask!
-G .
Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.
HO and N Scale.
After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.
Hi Paul. Welcome to the hobby. Since you're in Douglasville may I suggest you visit and get to know Bob at Riverdale Station (model railroad hobby shop) in Riverdale, Ga., not that far from you. Trainmaster in Buford is another fine mrr hobby shop. Bob at Riverdale could also direct you to local clubs in your area. These clubs are usually filled with people that have been in the hobby for a long time and are willing to help/guide newcomers along. One visit to a club layout can answer tons of questions for you, such as what is a buss wire and how do drop feeders work, which turnouts are dcc friendly and which aren't.
If clubs aren't your thing, then the best options are forums like this and reading everything you can find on the hobby, either online or in books you purchase.
Jarrell, down in Macon.
Paul_in_GA I was just reading The DCC Guide and it's very interesting. Thank goodness I had a lot of electronics training otherwise this stuff would be daunting for a new guy. As I go through the chapters he's answering questions I already have. Things like controlling switches, etc. I have a way to go but this is the fun part for me. I like to learn just about everything I can about something when I put my mind to it. .
.
Not to put down that book, it is very helpful but I think DCC has come a long way since that was first put out. Most locos now are DCC ready.. with most Atlas it is removing the old circuit board putting in the new one and attaching about 6-8 wires.. once you done one the next one you do can be done in about 10 minutes with about 6 minutes removing and putting back on the shell. Athearn engines that are DCC ready are plug in play.. just remove a dummy plug and push in the DCC decoder.. again, once you have done one, more time is spent in removing and putting the shell back on. That book appears mostly geared is for older locos that are not DCC ready.. My wife got me a couple non DCC ready locos for Christmas. I was scared to convert them but once you do it, it is not hard. Digitrax has a great coversion kit and there are a several great youtube videos out there that will walk you through it.
I also believe there is a section in that book about DCC wiring a layout.. that is still good info other that switches. Most switches now are DCC ready. If you buy Atlas brand track the switches (also called turnouts) they are DCC ready.
I saw your big list of things you have but I dont remembe seeing two important things.. a track/ wheel set gauge and coupler height gauge. One bad wheel set or low hanging coupler will drive you crazy.
Thank you ALL for your help! Both above and below posts. I am going to make a small layout first. Also, I want a finished one, not partly finished. I see it as a never ending hobby. It's very open ended.
As for the guy in Riverdale, I went to his shop once a long time ago but he's since closed it down and I thought he was out of business. Do you know his new address? He had an awesome store and it's a LOT closer than Buford to me.
Right now I'm in the process of rearranging my office, moving a phone jack for my desk for Internet, I put up shelves in two closets to store stuff, and I have to remove one wall's wallpaper. In the meantime I'm still gathering stuff together. Someone mentioned two things I didn't have, I will order those today.
This is why I like this forum. I take all the most relevant information in the posts and copy and paste them in a document and file them in different computer folders on my Mac and they make great reference material. I guess that's what I need most now is information.
As for that DCC book, he talks a lot about hexadecimal and binary which I am very familiar with, I didn't know it was that complicated. So, can anyone give me the name of a better, newer book on DCC? I mean, do you still have to program the CV's in hex like he speaks about? I can do it but it sure seems like killing a mosquito with a sledgehammer doesn't it?
I'd love to find out which decoder in installed in my first and only loco. I guess I could either try to carefully take off the shell and look for those two digits then find that free program that'll tell you or take it back to the HS and have them let the DCC controller tell me. THEN I'd have to try to scour the net for a manual for it woudn't I?
Paul_in_GA As for that DCC book, he talks a lot about hexadecimal and binary which I am very familiar with, I didn't know it was that complicated. So, can anyone give me the name of a better, newer book on DCC? I mean, do you still have to program the CV's in hex like he speaks about? I can do it but it sure seems like killing a mosquito with a sledgehammer doesn't it? I'd love to find out which decoder in installed in my first and only loco. I guess I could either try to carefully take off the shell and look for those two digits then find that free program that'll tell you or take it back to the HS and have them let the DCC controller tell me. THEN I'd have to try to scour the net for a manual for it woudn't I?
You can program in hexadecimal and binary but most of the things now have number codes. You choose the CV that need adjusting and the you put in the cooresponding number- most go from 0 to 255. Such as if you have screwed your programing way up or need to start over. Choose CV 8 and enter in 8. This is a great manual from Digitrax that covers DCC decoder programing and most decoders are all the same thanks to NMRR standards.
http://www.digitrax.com/static/apps/cms/media/documents/documentation/decodermanual.pdf
Paul,
In response to your list, it seems like you have a really good handle on things. List looks good.
If you haven't decided on an era (aka, such a year to such a year), I would like to suggest doing 1986 to about the early 90's, seeing as to how you have a CSX Uboat (another name for GE's line of Universal series of locomotives).
The single action airbrush is a really good airbrush for a beginner, I have a badger, so I can't tell you what the company's products are like. Sorry.
When you get more experience, you may want to consider a Double action airbrush (you have control of both the air and flow of paint with this airbrush).
The Lehigh Valley Railroad, the Route of the Black Diamond Express, John Wilkes and Maple Leaf.
-Jake, modeling the Barclay, Towanda & Susquehanna.
Jacon! I went there this morning! He's still in business. Bob is a cool guy with boatloads of knowledge.
He ran my engine and then I asked him to install Kadee couplers and find out what DCC module is in there. Well, I bought some stuff and my wife said I could buy some more so I went back before I got home.
He told me the module installed in it was for a N scale loco so I asked him if he'd install a better HO one and he's doing it now and it'll be ready tomorrow. It ran fine but he told me if I tried to run a lot of cars with it it would burn out. Here's the module that was in it: DZ123.
So today I bought a DCC controller, I know ya'll like Digitrax but I bought the NCE Power Cab 0612. I also bought three feet of PECO flex track code 100 or was it Atlas, think it was PECO. I also bought a better DCC book Larry Puckett's Practical Guide To DCC.
I bought a nice B&O covered hopper made by Kadee, road 631155.
My mistake, I bought code 83.
Paul_in_GA Jacon! I went there this morning! He's still in business. Bob is a cool guy with boatloads of knowledge. He ran my engine and then I asked him to install Kadee couplers and find out what DCC module is in there. Well, I bought some stuff and my wife said I could buy some more so I went back before I got home. He told me the module installed in it was for a N scale loco so I asked him if he'd install a better HO one and he's doing it now and it'll be ready tomorrow. It ran fine but he told me if I tried to run a lot of cars with it it would burn out. Here's the module that was in it: DZ123. So today I bought a DCC controller, I know ya'll like Digitrax but I bought the NCE Power Cab 0612. I also bought three feet of PECO flex track code 100 or was it Atlas, think it was PECO. I also bought a better DCC book Larry Puckett's Practical Guide To DCC. I bought a nice B&O covered hopper made by Kadee, road 631155.
Glad he could help! He's out of Atlas track right now, at least he was 2 or 3 days ago. I noticed he had a box of Peco on the counter. Bob told me Atlas is still having trouble securing track from the Chinese mfgs. Many modelers use code 83 track, they like it's more 'prototypical' look. Kadee makes great rolling stock, don't they! Little pricey but very nice.
Jarrell
Now that I have the room rearranged my biggest fear is designing the layout. I have no idea how to do it.
I want to use the Woodland Scenics foam system. But how do you install those switch machines in the fioam?
Also, he recommended a minimum of 22" radius turnouts. Despite the several books I bought recently that describe building a layout, designing one is the absolute most intimidating thing about this hobby. I would like some elevated inclines, a tunnel, rock faces, and stuff like that but I have no idea how to go about it.
The space I have to work with is 14 feet long along one wall and about six or a little more out from the wall in an L direction. Is that enough room? Do I build it against the wall at only three feet wide? Maybe that Woodland Scenics DVD I have will explain it a little better.
This is where you start with the must haves and can live without.. Incline maybe the first to go in your limited space. 3% grade is tough for most trains. 2% would be better. If you plan to have your trains loop under or over itself, you will need about 25 feet to get it up and back down at 3%. I used the WS 2% grade kit for a climbing loop and it takes about 20 feet to just get up high enough so my train can loop similar to the Tehachapi Loop. Dont let designing a layout freak you out, the trial and error is the fun part. Doing scenery- it can always be redone or added too if it comes out not right... or from my experiance, I think I screwed up a spot, I let it be for a day or two, come back and I find it actually looks good. Trust me, once you get some track down and you lay down some ground foam and a few trees, it all start to look good and you just build from there.
Now that the weekend is here, keep an eye out for the the Weekend Photo Fun (WPF) for some inspiration or get an issue of Model Rail Roader or Trains.. both are always a good source for when I need inspiration.
Hi Eric and thanks for getting back to me. Well, this is what i have to work with. Photo (hopefully) below. I would really like a two level RR. The scenery, wiring, building, all that I can handle, it's the actual design that's giving me fits. I have never done it before. So I ordered Walther's full size track paper templates and I figure I can use them to make a tentative layout? Anyway, here's a partial photo of the room, I have more.
Looks like you have a tight space to run big trains but would make for a great switching layout. Here is a great one that is MRR often and he often contributes here. http://www.lancemindheim.com/EastRailTrack_plan.htm http://www.lancemindheim.com/index.htm
Also have you checked into see if there are any HO clubs in the area? It is always good to visit to get some inspiration and advice as well. My lay is in my garage but running a train more than 30 cars can be a pain but my club is big and flat, great place to run 60+ car trains
Yeah Eric, it is kinda tight but I can make it larger. That tape was just a rough estimate. I could make it four feet deep and have not only a larger L on one end but a peninsula (I guess you call it that) coming out near the end of the other.
I don't know any hobby groups, I asked at the LHS and he knows none.
As far as hobby groups, I guess that you should start by contacting the NMRA (National Model Railroad Association). Here is a hyperlink to their website.
http://www.nmra.org/
The space is rather tight for a mainline, even in N scale. However, I do see the potential for a switching based layout as well. Also, it would look okay for a U boat to switch the layout since they were very old engines when CSX was formed.
Good idea to use the track templates. Also, you could get more action out of it if you add a peninsula to it.
A good source of track plans for inspiration can be found right on this website. Just look under subsciber extras and you will find a box for a track plan data base. You could probably get some of the features you want if you put the layout in the Appalachain Mountain area since they are more of a problem to get over than the Rocky Mountains since the grades are more severe.
How about this, I can get by with this in this room.
In general, more than 3 feet wide from a wall makes for a big stretch to reach when something wrong.. and yes, it will happen, you will have a derailment in the most hard to reach spot on your layout. 18 inches to 2 feet wide is ideal.
Isn't planning fun!
Thanks for looking at it Eric. Would it be possible for you to make suggestions on the space I have, perhaps modify it a little? I really need 22" or greater turnouts and I woud like some of it elevated. I don't know whay I simply can't get the hang of laying out. This bugs me. Thanks.
Paul