Hello, I just started in the hobby this week. I have a lot to learn. I have been buying books, DVD's, and some Woodland Scenics stuff.
Today I bought an Atlas Item #8620 U23B locomotive CXS - Road #3243, DCC installed at a hobby store for $75. Is this a good deal and is this a good engine?
I will be back here very frequently as there appears to be a wealth of information here.
Thanks, Paul.
Welcome aboard.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
Paul_in_GA Today I bought an Atlas Item #8620 U23B locomotive CXS - Road #3243, DCC installed at a hobby store for $75. Is this a good deal and is this a good engine?
Atlas mades a wide line of diesels and they are all excellent, so you can't go wrong there.
This particular HO scale loco was first produced in late 2006 and originally retailed for $109.95. It was DCC Ready, equipped with an 8-pin NMRA plug.
It is unclear if the $75 that you paid was just for the decoder and the cost to install it or whether the $75 was the total cost to purchase the loco and have the decoder installed.
It looks like you can still buy this loco new on eBay for around $75. A typical decoder would cost another $30, not including the labor charge to install it.
Rich
Alton Junction
Atlas makes good-solid locomotives. I'd say with the decoder installed the price you paid was great for new and in the ball park for used. When you come up with questions, here is a pretty good place to get some answers. Take your time and enjoy! No need to answer all the questions asked by one of the posters above about turn back loops and stuff! However, I also think starting with DCC is the way to go.
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
Welcome to the asylum, Paul You've picked a fun and addictive hobby.
Sean
HO Scale CSX Modeler
WOW! That's a LOT of questions! Um, I don't know what half of this stuff means. I bought a book on very basic DCC so I'm learning. I never heard of Digitrax, what is it? Track I guess?
Yes, HO.
What are crossovers and reverse loops? I have to find room in my house for it so today I'm going to do some measuring of a room and stuff I can move around. Space is limited but manageable. I'll post photos when I get started, promise.
Atlas is a good quality engine to start with. Where in GA are you at? I grew up in South Georgia. Are you planning to model CSX? If it is not too far away, I would recommend a visit to the Folkston Funnel... you can get a lot of weathering inspiration
watch?v=Blut46zm0qE&list=UU5WrNMy40Uocx8HTqYiduw&index=3&feature=plcp
Thanks for all your replies. I bought it used. Man, do I have a LOT to learn. I want to do this right the first time so I want to plan and plan and learn and learn as much as I can beforehand.
I have an electrical/electronics/woodworking/avionics background and I can build or fix just about anything so it won't be a problem.
I'll just have a lot of questions...
I'm in Douglasville, about 20 miles west of ATL.
I'll try to take your advice about a visit. Thanks!
GREAT video! Wish I could save it. I'm gonna have to go! Thanks for that.
richhotrain A typical decoder would cost another $30, not including the labor charge to install it. Rich
A typical decoder would cost another $30, not including the labor charge to install it.
cacole richhotrain A typical decoder would cost another $30, not including the labor charge to install it. Rich If you know where to shop, a good quality NCE decoder can be had for as little as $13, and installation is as simple as plugging it into the circuit board, so why pay someone to do that?
I don't know about $13.
The recommended NCE decoder for an Atlas U23B is a D14SR which can be had on eBay for about $25 plus shipping. So, I think $30 is about the right price.
Regarding installation, a rank newbie may be too intimidated to attempt it, plus fears of damaging the shell when removing it to reach the plug, plus soldering skills if required.
Hi Rich. I don't think I'd be intimidated as I worked on delicate aircraft electronics and electrical systems all my life. I'm real hand with a soldering iron of all types. Wiring is second nature to me as well as reading schematics. I rewire things all the time.
What is REAL intimidating to me however is the layout process, trying to figure out what I want etc. I know I don't want to do a prototype (I learned that word from the books I'm reading). What I want is a layout with a mountain, a tunnel, several buildings, and some water. Just a fantasy railroad.
I plan on using the Woodland Scenics foam system as it seems very easy to use and work with.
Thanks for the information regarding what DCC controller to buy, I will look for it.
Hi again Rich, I looked up the decoder, it has one installed, or rather the box says it has a decoder installed. What I need to know is what DCC controller I would need. Any model numbers off the top of your head?
Thanks.
I'm learnin'! AND loving this hobby.
Looks like I'll have enough room for a 4 foot by 14 foot layout.
richhotrain cacole richhotrain A typical decoder would cost another $30, not including the labor charge to install it. Rich If you know where to shop, a good quality NCE decoder can be had for as little as $13, and installation is as simple as plugging it into the circuit board, so why pay someone to do that? I don't know about $13. The recommended NCE decoder for an Atlas U23B is a D14SR which can be had on eBay for about $25 plus shipping. So, I think $30 is about the right price. Regarding installation, a rank newbie may be too intimidated to attempt it, plus fears of damaging the shell when removing it to reach the plug, plus soldering skills if required. Rich
I agree most decoders are in the $19.00-45.00 range depending on the goodies..
I suspose a cheap decoder can be had around $13.00.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Paul_in_GA Hi again Rich, I looked up the decoder, it has one installed, or rather the box says it has a decoder installed. What I need to know is what DCC controller I would need. Any model numbers off the top of your head? Thanks. I'm learnin'! AND loving this hobby. Looks like I'll have enough room for a 4 foot by 14 foot layout.
There are several good DCC systems out there, most of us here use either NCE or Digitrax (myself). Both are respected systems and easliy upgraded so you don't have to go out and start over if you find you need a bigger system. A very popular starter system that won't break the bank is Digitrax Zephyr which can be had well under $200.
Paul_in_GA Looks like I'll have enough room for a 4 foot by 14 foot layout.
Tell us about your room size. 4 x 14 sounds like you are going to doing a table top like layout.. not that is bad but if you have a whole room to use, a around the wall layout would give a lot more room to work and able to give you scenery more variety, throw in a small peninsula and you easily have 60 feet of track or more.
The room is my office at home. It is 14' 6" x 13' 11". I have the entire room laid out now on graph paper including the desk and the chair. I came up with a 4' x 12' long layout table. That includes a one foot space away from the wall. Is this advisable or is it better against a wall?
But, I could possibly make it into an L shape which would be 14' long x 6' wide so I could put an L shape in there. It is a large room but I have to contend with a door, a closet on the opposite wall, a window where my desk will be moved to and three bookcases along the other wall which would not be in the way at all.
Digitrax is a DCC manufacturer. I have the Digitrax Zephyr which is more than adequate for my needs.
NP2626 Digitrax is a DCC manufacturer. I have the Digitrax Zephyr which is more than adequate for my needs.
That's the one I recommend the most even though I'm DC and partial DCC (MRC Tech 6).
If I was to convert fully to DCC it would be that system.
Paul_in_GA The room is my office at home. It is 14' 6" x 13' 11". I have the entire room laid out now on graph paper including the desk and the chair. I came up with a 4' x 12' long layout table. That includes a one foot space away from the wall. Is this advisable or is it better against a wall? But, I could possibly make it into an L shape which would be 14' long x 6' wide so I could put an L shape in there. It is a large room but I have to contend with a door, a closet on the opposite wall, a window where my desk will be moved to and three bookcases along the other wall which would not be in the way at all.
Some folks who are more savvy with the track laying software will be posting pics of what you can do, I am sure of it
But what you could do if you did a shelf layout around the room- say 18 inches to 2 feet wide, and do a lift out sections for the door and closet and you could pull your desk out 4 or 5 inches and make the behind the desk a single track section, and while you are at your desk doing desk things you can then train spot as your trains roll by.
I love sailing and us sailors have thing called 2 foot-itis, no matter what size boat you have, you just want a boat 2 feet longer.. I found the same thing with my first layout.. I need just a few more feet make me happy then I went with a around the wall shelf layout and all was good. I am sure if you do a table you will have the same feeling down the road.
I'll throw my two cents in about the DCC system. For a complete newbie, the NCE systems are very user friendly, easy to learn, and easy to use.
Depending on how big your layout will be, and how many locomotives you want to run at the same time. There is a basic NCE Powercab that you can get for around $160.
And then there is more high end systems with wireless throttles. I have the PH-Pro-R, I paid around $575 at my local hobby shop. It's a great system, love it.
Check them out here: http://www.ncedcc.com/component/virtuemart/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=3&Itemid=1
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
You guys are great. I appreciate the help.
As for the closet, the train will not even be near that wall or the main door. So it'll be a space that's 14 feet long by 6 feet wide so I can make it narrow in some spots and have an L or penninsula I guess you'd call it. I just need layout ideas and HOW to do a layout which to me is the MOST intimidating thing. I can handle any tools, electronics, woodworking, you name it, it's the planning that scares me.
My goal is to learn from others, books, & DVDs and not make any mistakes when I build it. I used to be a woodworker as a hobby for 40 years so I learned to think one step ahead. That's what I need to do. I have to think, "OK, if I do THIS, what will be the ramifications of THIS to the NEXT step. That way I can always stay ahead of the building curve.
As for your DCC help guys, thanks a LOT, I need all the help I can get. I am reading a DCC book and it's very easy for me to understand because I used to build and program computers at the binary level. I went to a lot of electronics schools in the Air Force and with my airline. So it's easy-peasy. It's just getting used to all the railroading terms that I have to learn.
Thanks ya'll!
You can try Anyrail for free, it is a track laying software that you can put in your size to work with and you can play around with ideas. The trial is basic but can give you a good start. http://www.anyrail.com/index_en.html . I have found out if you come up with a good design, start with the mainline first and then work outward, as what looks good on paper may be too crowded in real life or as you start laying track you get inspired with a different industry or siding than what you had planned.
Paul_in_GA Thanks for all your replies. I bought it used. Man, do I have a LOT to learn. I want to do this right the first time so I want to plan and plan and learn and learn as much as I can beforehand. I have an electrical/electronics/woodworking/avionics background and I can build or fix just about anything so it won't be a problem. I'll just have a lot of questions...
Hi Paul in GA.
I agree (partially) with all the studying and planning, BUT..............
After approx. three years of deciding to get back into the hobby and spending that time planning, drawing and what-have-you, I found I was no further ahead than what I had been three years earlier. So I decided right there and then to get building and get some trains running. Nothing that you put down is that permanent that it can't be adjusted, changed, re-done or scrapped. I found that it kept my interest better and the creative juices flowed better and it wasn't a big deal to make some of those changes.
So my recommendation to you is this. GET STARTED, and get some trains running and once you get by visualizing and actually seeing them operating, your mind becomes clearer as to what you want and how it is going to fit in your given space.
This is not to say it is the only way, but it definitely worked for me.
Best of luck to you and happy rails.
Johnboy out.....................
from Saskatchewan, in the Great White North..
We have met the enemy, and he is us............ (Pogo)
Paul_in_GAWhat are crossovers and reverse loops?
A reverse loop is an arrangement of track that allows a train that is running forward one direction around an oval (such as counterclockwise) to turn around and run forward the opposite direction (clockwise.) The track that runs across the middle of this plan forms a reverse loop.
Man, I gotta tell ya, I love the help i'm getting.
In the above drawing what does At-410 mean for example?
Also, in reference to the above posts, I plan on getting some trains and track and running. Then go from there.
If the Atlas box states it's decoder equipt. You have the Atlas Master series w/ the dual mode decoder factory installed. It comes standard to run on DC. The jumper "plug" on the board needs to be moved over and reinserted into the board. for DCC operation. The DCC address is generally the last 2 digits of the engine number. I don't know if the Hobby shop has already moved the plug for you.
I have numerous Atlas Master (dual mode) engines. They are some of the best detailed and best running that you can buy. All mine are EMD units and shell removal is not nec. The Dynamic hatch on top of the long hood removes to access the decoder for this purpose. I don't believe your enginge has this so shell removal is nec. If you do need to remove the shell, hopefully others here can guide you through the proceedure. My EMD units may be slightly different in shell removal so I don't want to give you advice on an engine I'm not familiar with.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
As far as control systems go, it really doesn't matter which system is being used with which decoder. For instance, I have an MRC Prodigy Express system, and I have decoders from Train Control Systems, Lenz and Bachmann operating on my layout.
While we are talking about Bachmann, let me say this. Avoid buying their items if at all possible. The products will just give you more trouble than they are worth (in most cases). I only have a Bachmann 44-tonner because it had a decoder that was factory installed and was listed for a very good price. The main problem with Bachmann in the DCC world is that it is a real pain to program their decoders on foreign systems (yes, Bachmann has it's own control system). I have heard of putting a resistor on your programming track, and that should work. I haven't tried it yet, and probably will soon. However, I don't remember exactly what kind of resistor should be used.
I have an Atlas engine as well, but it is a C420, and taking the shells off of them is as simple as just removing the fuel tank (just pull it off), and GENTLY wiggling the sell off, and.... Presto! You instantly have access to the light board, motor and flywheels. Seeing how the U boats and Century locomotives were quite similar in construction, I would suspect that your shell will come off in much the same manner, but it's something that I know that works with Atlas Alcos, not GEs, so there is no guarantee.
One last note, if you want, the decoder address can be the whole locomotive number if you want, which actually comes in handy, since it is a tip that makes remembering addresses easy.
The Lehigh Valley Railroad, the Route of the Black Diamond Express, John Wilkes and Maple Leaf.
-Jake, modeling the Barclay, Towanda & Susquehanna.