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Show Us Your Weathered Models II ...Critique & Criticism Welcome

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Posted by spidge on Sunday, August 16, 2009 11:48 PM

Boomer Red

 I'm definitely not in the same league as you guy's but I thought I'd toss this in anyway. I built this car about ten years ago so it's a little crude but oh well.Smile

 

Crude! Are you kidding me? Very nice. Wood chips under the logs, nicely weathered sides, rusted up trucks, and we can still read the reporting #'s.

I think your holding back.

John

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Posted by spidge on Sunday, August 16, 2009 11:50 PM

duckdogger

   Not every car is a rust bucket- they all start shiny and new and acquire their personality gradually.

Thats what I am working towards.

John

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Posted by elogger on Monday, August 17, 2009 12:08 AM

AggroJones

Trust me. A squad has been dispatched to come over to this forum and down everyone here til the thread is locked.

In the mean time I'll shoot.


 

 

 

 

 

Laugh

 

 

jeremy

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Posted by Boomer Red on Monday, August 17, 2009 12:23 AM
OUCH Dead LOL!       
elogger

AggroJones

Trust me. A squad has been dispatched to come over to this forum and down everyone here til the thread is locked.

In the mean time I'll shoot.


 

 

 

 

 

Laugh

 

 

jeremy

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Posted by Robby P. on Monday, August 17, 2009 7:06 AM

 Driline.....The "dark" spots was done with a mix of burnt umber (windsor newton oils), and dark weathering powders (dark red, and black). 

 "Rust, whats not to love?"      

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Posted by TMarsh on Monday, August 17, 2009 7:19 AM

Spidge- Much, much better! You got it going good with the two hoppers

Driline
So I'm challenging somebody.....anybody to try this and post your pics here.

Driline- I'll take you up. I've got an airbrush but I've been holding off until I get some more tips and checkout some more work of others before I destroy another car like I've done before. Twice. The powders I do not have..., yet. Because of my schedule and of course funding it may be relatively slow going but between this thread and some help Robby's offered I think the door has been opened wide to the world of weathering. I've got some old TYCO cars from my youth in the early 70's to use as practice so I'm not going on the greatness of the cars, but who knows I may end up changing couplers and wheels and using them!

Here's my failed attempt. Sort of a where I am now photo. No misconceptions it is good at all. It will be "erased" some day 

Soon, hopefully when I find the wifes camera, I'll select a car and post a before picture and then get started. I already have some reefer white Polyscale to fade with. so I've got all I need to get started. Big Smile

First question, India ink. Does that seem to be the best to use as a black wash or would any water based black do? I do not have India Ink, I do have Folk Art. But there is a H.L. nearby so I can get some.

Todd  

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Posted by Driline on Monday, August 17, 2009 7:31 AM

TMarsh
First question, India ink. Does that seem to be the best to use as a black wash or would any water based black do? I do not have India Ink, I do have Folk Art. But there is a H.L. nearby so I can get some.

 

Not sure. I've always used India Ink. Now that I think about it. It may be only a few drops of ink per 3oz. of alcohol to get that washed look. So scratch the 50/50 mixture as I think that will be way to dark.

Modeling the Davenport Rock Island & Northwestern 1995 in HO
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Posted by blownout cylinder on Monday, August 17, 2009 8:36 AM

A couple of peculiarities for your perusal here-----

On this one---a different colourization showed up

Also note the extra step up under the door

And then the patched--in metal--boxcar with an extreme dose of rustApprove

Things that make one go HMMMWhistling

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Posted by Geared Steam on Monday, August 17, 2009 9:38 AM

Driline

Thanks for starting this thread and going to the trouble of listing step by step instructions. When I get to the point where I need to weather my cars, I will follow your instructions. The boxcar and flat look great, I don't see how you could improve them much more.

Robbie, Aggro, Grampy and others, nice work.  

"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein

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Posted by loathar on Monday, August 17, 2009 10:29 AM

TMarsh-That hopper looks like you used that liquid instant rust product on it. (the stuff that smells like vinager) I found if you add a couple drops of alcohol to that stuff it doesn't bead up as bad on the surface. I pour a little in a cap and add a couple drops of isopropyl. Works great for weathering trucks and wheels.

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Posted by Driline on Monday, August 17, 2009 1:00 PM

Geared Steam

The boxcar and flat look great, I don't see how you could improve them much more.

Robbie, Aggro, Grampy and others, nice work.  

 

Ha! Remember my car was a 2 day job. You want to see a Pro look at Aggro's stuff. There is NO comparison. He's Rembrandt, and I'm in First grade using fingerpaints Smile Although Robbie is fast on his heels.

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Posted by ProtoWeathering on Monday, August 17, 2009 1:07 PM

Driline

Geared Steam

The boxcar and flat look great, I don't see how you could improve them much more.

Robbie, Aggro, Grampy and others, nice work.  

 

Ha! Remember my car was a 2 day job. You want to see a Pro look at Aggro's stuff. There is NO comparison. He's Rembrandt, and I'm in First grade using fingerpaints Smile Although Robbie is fast on his heels.

 

LaughLaugh 

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Posted by Driline on Monday, August 17, 2009 1:33 PM

Neutrino
LaughLaugh 

 

It took you long enough! Where you been?

I thought you'd like that comment Smile

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Posted by Geared Steam on Monday, August 17, 2009 1:42 PM

Driline
You want to see a Pro look at Aggro's stuff. There is NO comparison. He's Rembrandt

 

Indeed he is, no comparison. I need about 500 of his trees as well. Big Smile

"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein

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Posted by Driline on Monday, August 17, 2009 6:07 PM

 As promised, a few better close up pics.

Remember........with the right tools, you can make your cars look just like this on your 2nd try too.


 

Modeling the Davenport Rock Island & Northwestern 1995 in HO
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Posted by Jimmydieselfan on Monday, August 17, 2009 7:30 PM

Lets see some N Scale examplesCool

N Scale Diesels......I like 'em

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Posted by spidge on Monday, August 17, 2009 7:46 PM

Check out page 2 of my N scale examples. Maybe not quite where I want to be but in time and with more practice and shared techniques I will get there.

John

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Posted by AggroJones on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 12:26 AM

Laugh

Neutrino

Driline

Geared Steam

The boxcar and flat look great, I don't see how you could improve them much more.

Robbie, Aggro, Grampy and others, nice work.  

 

Ha! Remember my car was a 2 day job. You want to see a Pro look at Aggro's stuff. There is NO comparison. He's Rembrandt, and I'm in First grade using fingerpaints Smile Although Robbie is fast on his heels.

 

LaughLaugh 

 
Laugh Laugh Laugh Laugh
 
Nothing you can do to demean me. In the words of Mayo, peace out. Laugh

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Posted by AggroJones on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 12:28 AM

Drilline if you want my critique on the BN I can do so.

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Posted by jwhitten on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 6:42 AM

 Did you remove the trucks when you did (airbrushed) the body or just mask/block it off?

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Posted by Driline on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 7:11 AM

AggroJones

Drilline if you want my critique on the BN I can do so.



What I would really like from you is for you to offer ONE and only ONE piece of information on how you weathered your car everytime you post a picture. That way maybe some of us can use it to make ours a bit better.

Critique if you want, like the post says...but I know SOME of the problems, I just don't know how to fixum. Like I'm not happy with the brush strokes present on the white B. Maybe I should not have used a brush with the India Ink and perhaps used a makeup sponge instead? Don't really know.....
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Posted by Driline on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 7:14 AM

jwhitten

 Did you remove the trucks when you did (airbrushed) the body or just mask/block it off?

 

Yes, trucks were removed before I airbrushed the body. They were painted a grimy black using FLOQUIL brand paint including the underbody and then I used a little bit of sophisticated finishes on the springs, and then A.I.M. chalk from there using dark rust and browns, kind of mixed around.

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Posted by Driline on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 7:22 AM

AggroJones

Drilline if you want my critique on the BN I can do so.

 

Aggro.....Question about the 3 foot rule. As you know some modelers say that if it looks great at 3' its good enough to display.

In your honest opinion would you be able to tell the difference between say, one of your prize models and my obomination at 3 feet or would mine stick out like a sore thumb???

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Posted by blownout cylinder on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 7:31 AM

Driline
Like I'm not happy with the brush strokes present on the white B. Maybe I should not have used a brush with the India Ink and perhaps used a makeup sponge instead? Don't really know.....

My attempts so far seem to work better with the sponge----but then in N scale----??Confused

BTW--does anyone know what will cause pitting on a Mehano E7/8 body? I used the usual washes and such but-----? 

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Posted by ProtoWeathering on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 10:00 AM

Fantasy weathered car.

 

Athearn Evans 1

Athearn Evans 2 

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Posted by Driline on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 11:55 AM
Why is it called a fantasy car?
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Posted by ProtoWeathering on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 12:32 PM

 It's a fantasy car for a number of reasons.

It represents a 53' Evans car.

It is an Athearn car. The Athearn car has the wrong roof and is too short by about three feet. It also lacks the brake rigging/detail that the proto obviously has.  The Atlas car is correct for the prototype, but I didn't have time to strip/paint and decal a GT scheme Atlas example. Atlas has never done the 53' Evans car in the GT scheme.

 The weathering was done using multiple proto photos, but it isn't an exact replica of an actual car. So while the car is about 90% correct, it doesn't fit into any category other than fantasy. This isn't a bad thing. All I do are fantasy cars and never claim anything else. The weathering on my cars is always based on real weathering processes and I try to use artistic license with restraint.

The lettering is a bit off too. I used a RR Gothic, reversing the "t" in order to make the "I" and the rub-on lettering is not something I use all the time. I am moving in two weeks and wanted the car finished for the customer before then.

 

 

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Posted by TMarsh on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 4:37 PM

Page two huh, well let me say something to bring it to page one.

I've learned three lessons today. I'll pass them on for those who may not know. For those of you who do..... Have a laugh on me. But don't use them all up, I'm sure there'll be plenty more to come.

Lesson 1- When applying your fade, be sure to do it in good lighting. What looks good in fair lighting will be too much when you bring it to a well lit place.

Lesson 2- Even after the paint is dry, the moisture from your favorite beverage bottle will be transferred to your fingers and when the model is handled, and will erase what you've done where your fingers where. Use a coolie, or make sure your fingers are dry if you have to handle the model.

Lesson 3- a little paint goes a looooong way. Either mix very little or have another empty paint bottle to store the un used paint for the next time. I would recommend the later.

I was intending to take a before picture but after finding the wifes camera I discovered the battery was dead and the son has the charger at his house. However it may still happen as I will be removing the fade which should be fairly easy after learning lesson 2.

Todd  

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Posted by elogger on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 5:14 PM

 hey tmarsh... it's all good, we've all learned those lessons... sometimes i find it helpful to wear latex gloves when weathering... just to make sure i don't get fingerprints or the oil from my skin on my work...

 

good luck,

jeremy

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Posted by AggroJones on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 10:23 PM

Unitl I can find one of my weathering walk throughs to post here, I'll just shoot some gerneral rules.

 

-Painting a car a faded color looks different than fade lightening a pre-existing color. Example you have a medium blue car... you fade it with white. That has a different starting presence than a car you straight paint baby blue.

-Drybrushing works better on flat surfaces. Not just for highliting edges. In cases you can tone broad surfaces by dryhbrushing.

-Don't put a solvent wash directly over solvent based paint...you might fudge your model. 

 -Gouache washes are magical.

-Always were gloves when handling stuff.

"Being misunderstood is the fate of all true geniuses"

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