Ok, I'll start by saying this is only my 2nd attempt at prototypical weathering. No excuses
The starting model was a Walthers $8.75 50' BN Waffle Box car. I'm going to list the weathering items I used and how I did it, and the steps involved in this process. The most important thing to remember is that ANYONE can do this. This isn't rocket science. There is only one step involved that requires some artistic license, but again, given time anyone can do it.
I did this in 2 days, only because I had to wait for the boxcar to dry overnight. Ok here we go.....
Here's my starting Photo...
BEFORE WEATHERING
AFTER WEATHERING
WEATHERING TOOLS....
Ok, so its NOT exact, but I challenge anyone who wouldn't proudly run this on their layout. And no I didn't add graffiti,
1) Because I don't know how,and
2) Because I don't want to get banned.
That boxcar looks really good. I haven't tried my hand at weathering yet, I've been a little scared to try it in case I mess it up. I'm thinking about buying some cheapy old plastic cars from ebay to practice on.
Jason
Modeling the Fort Worth & Denver of the early 1970's in N scale
Great work!
What PSI did you use on the white paint? I've always wanted to fade my cars, never tried it because I didn't have an airbrush.
It's an excellent model, faded more than the prototype, and some rust aptches that aren't on the prototype, but hey, it looks great and if you tried to do it EXACTLY like the prototype, never would get it done.
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
Looks good so far, but unfinished to me. I think it would benefit from a dark wash, to simulate the dark brown gunk collecting around the waffles and other places. I would add a couple of oil paints and a can of mineral spirits to your weathering tools. Mix up a thin wash and apply with a soft brush with the car laying flat.
HTH, Tom
DingySP Looks good so far, but unfinished to me. I think it would benefit from a dark wash, to simulate the dark brown gunk collecting around the waffles and other places. I would add a couple of oil paints and a can of mineral spirits to your weathering tools. Mix up a thin wash and apply with a soft brush with the car laying flat. HTH, Tom
Sounds good...Thanks. Can you list specific colors?
Driline
I would start with burnt umber and raw umber. Any brand should work, but I would avoid the cheaper brands. I use Grumbaucher. I prefer mineral spirits to turpentine/turpenoid. It seems "cleaner", turpentine smells, is a little gummy and can dry with a sheen to it. You can get a small can at the arts and crafts store or a larger can for much cheaper at Walmart or the hardware store.
Tom
Attaboy Driline!
Seriousely, it looks good. Not quite as dark a rust or as grimey as the original. Maybe some better lighting and a few more shots from different angles would help. Hard to see the same effect in indoor light as in sunshine.
Driline, sure looks good to me, nice job! I think the only thing I would've done differently, is I would've scabbed-in some styrene on the sidesills to get it closer to the prototype. That's just my preference...your's may vary.
Thanks for the "how I did it." THAT'S what I always thought these forums were supposed to be about, a resource for tips, tricks, and inspiration.
Chris
The Cedar cRapids Industrial Branch: Proudly Shipping Yesterday's CrunchBerries Tomorrow!
Driline thats a good weathering job especially the roof.
I have been experimenting with similar techniques. These cars were done with artists oils. 6 colors in all. Adding some chalk in a dark rust mix created some texture then when all the oils were dry I added a layer of chalks to tie it all together. I used black for a few deap rusty run spots and a makeup sponge with white to hilight trucks and edges. By the way trucks and couplers were done with acrylics and Mig pigments.
As you can see I gat carried away on at least one of the above cars.
Now if I could only add attachments I would show you the roof on the boxcar.
John
The roof,
These cars were done with acrylics and mig pigments.
As you can see I still have a heavy hand and will work on a lighter effect for my next weathering project.
Driline,
A sincere thank you for this "primer". You have given me the confidence to try a weathering job. Your effort is very good. I also do not plan to use grafitti.
Thanks again and let's see more of your work!
Driline- Thank you! You are starting what I'd hope would happen.Only your second attempt? That gives me hope. At the risk of sounding like I'm trying to be an expert, and I'm not, maybe a bit more rust and mainly grunge at the seam at the base of the sides and sorta carry onto the the side frame to get it dirtier than the rest of the car? Especially under and around the door area.
Thanks for the "instructions". This could turn out to be a fantastic thread.
spidge- My favorite is the first photo of the hoppers. As you pointed out others appear to have a heavy hand. Not near as heavy as mine though. I would be happy if I was at the point you are. Very happy. The roof looks real good and so does the Sante Fe box as well as the D & RGW. Now that one looks like it's been rode hard and put away dry out west.
Todd
Central Illinoyz
In order to keep my position as Master and Supreme Ruler of the House, I don't argue with my wife.
I'm a small town boy. A product of two people from even smaller towns. I don’t talk on topic….. I just talk.
Great work, hard to tell from real stuff, I wonder how the guys feel with their 500 cars that are bright and shiny (fresh off the lot) feel when they see photos such as these? do they actually go into shock, as you may note I'm from the "If it ain't weathered, it ain't finished" school. Nice work, guys.
I guess I will jump in. Hopefully it won't get locked. Just a couple of old shots!! "Ann Arbor car was shot inside. Seems like it wanted to rain that day".
"Rust, whats not to love?"
tatans Great work, hard to tell from real stuff, I wonder how the guys feel with their 500 cars that are bright and shiny (fresh off the lot) feel when they see photos such as these? do they actually go into shock, as you may note I'm from the "If it ain't weathered, it ain't finished" school. Nice work, guys.
You mean like at many train shows.
Robby, nice weathering as usual. Care to share some of your techniques here?
John........Just practice and lots of patience. Some thin brushes, powders, oils, and some dullcote. I start with a fade of "testors white" air brush. Let that dry for a day. Then I take some powders and go along the ribs of the boxcars (hoppers are done different). Dullcote. Let that dry, and then add some rust pits, streaks, etc. Dullcote. Let that dry. Then I do the underneath. I just do a dusty/grime look. With a mix of powders. Dullcote, and let that dry. I always do the roof last. I sometimes use the real rusting agent, but most of the time its a rust color wash.
Hope this helps.
Robby P. John........Just practice and lots of patience. Some thin brushes, powders, oils, and some dullcote. I start with a fade of "testors white" air brush. Let that dry for a day. Then I take some powders and go along the ribs of the boxcars (hoppers are done different). Dullcote. Let that dry, and then add some rust pits, streaks, etc. Dullcote. Let that dry. Then I do the underneath. I just do a dusty/grime look. With a mix of powders. Dullcote, and let that dry. I always do the roof last. I sometimes use the real rusting agent, but most of the time its a rust color wash. Hope this helps.
Thanks Robby. It does help a lot. Its the lack of chalk before the pits and streaks that I am missing.
You the MAN.
Thanks, Driline for starting a weathering thread. Good work, everyone. Here's a B&M boxcar I just did tonite.
OK, I used some turpentine to remove some of the excess weathering done on these hoppers. I then restreaked the cars with no additional paint as there was plenty already there, and allowed them to dry some. I know they need more dry time but I will do a full day next time. I sealed with Dulcoat and added some chalk over the top and Dulcoated again. It was to late to add the chalks before the paint on these cars but next time I will follow Robby's recomendations.
The first pick is the prototype I was shooting for on the Cargill car.
Thanks again Robby.
Gramps, nice weathering job.
Robby P.John........Just practice and lots of patience. Some thin brushes, powders, oils, and some dullcote. I start with a fade of "testors white" air brush. Let that dry for a day. Then I take some powders and go along the ribs of the boxcars (hoppers are done different). Dullcote. Let that dry, and then add some rust pits, streaks, etc. Dullcote. Let that dry. Then I do the underneath. I just do a dusty/grime look. With a mix of powders. Dullcote, and let that dry. I always do the roof last. I sometimes use the real rusting agent, but most of the time its a rust color wash. Hope this helps.
Excellent Robby. This is what I was hoping for. Some of you Pro's out there please list EXACTLY what steps you took to achieve your final weathered product. Step1...Step2....Step3...etc. etc...
Packers#1What PSI did you use on the white paint? I've always wanted to fade my cars, never tried it because I didn't have an airbrush.
Ok, I'd like to use you as a guinea pig. If I can make my boxcar look like that on only two try's certainly you can too. I use PSI 40. Well as soon as you get an airbrush lets get you started
I guess one of my main points here is that YOU DON'T HAVE TO BE A PRO to achieve this level of weathering. This is was my 2nd train car EVER. The first was this flatcar you see here.
So I'm challenging somebody.....anybody to try this and post your pics here. Obviously you'll have to have the following items
One more little tidbit. Photograph your weathered models OUTSIDE if at all possible. Most of us don't have a nice camera studio with plenty of light like Robby.
They'll look sooooo much better outside and we can actually SEE them.
Robby P. I guess I will jump in. Hopefully it won't get locked. Just a couple of old shots!! "Ann Arbor car was shot inside. Seems like it wanted to rain that day".
Extremely Nice.
Question. What did you do to achieve the "DARK" rust spots on the side of this boxcar?
Trust me. A squad has been dispatched to come over to this forum and down everyone here til the thread is locked.
In the mean time I'll shoot.
"Being misunderstood is the fate of all true geniuses"
EXPERIMENTATION TO BRING INNOVATION
http://community.webshots.com/album/288541251nntnEK?start=588
Driline Robby P. I guess I will jump in. Hopefully it won't get locked. Just a couple of old shots!! "Ann Arbor car was shot inside. Seems like it wanted to rain that day". Extremely Nice. Question. What did you do to achieve the "DARK" rust spots on the side of this boxcar? Gouache color? Specific powder color?
I would like to know how to do the rust pits to.
What is the difference between Gouache and oil paints?
Aggro, I guess I need to send you a SD card for further instructions?
I'm definitely not in the same league as you guy's but I thought I'd toss this in anyway. I built this car about ten years ago so it's a little crude but oh well.
Driline and Robbie - good job. Looks very real. Boomer, the car has a subtle aged look. Not every car is a rust bucket- they all start shiny and new and acquire their personality gradually.