That boxcar looks really good. I haven't tried my hand at weathering yet, I've been a little scared to try it in case I mess it up. I'm thinking about buying some cheapy old plastic cars from ebay to practice on.
Jason
Modeling the Fort Worth & Denver of the early 1970's in N scale
Great work!
What PSI did you use on the white paint? I've always wanted to fade my cars, never tried it because I didn't have an airbrush.
It's an excellent model, faded more than the prototype, and some rust aptches that aren't on the prototype, but hey, it looks great and if you tried to do it EXACTLY like the prototype, never would get it done.
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
Looks good so far, but unfinished to me. I think it would benefit from a dark wash, to simulate the dark brown gunk collecting around the waffles and other places. I would add a couple of oil paints and a can of mineral spirits to your weathering tools. Mix up a thin wash and apply with a soft brush with the car laying flat.
HTH, Tom
DingySP Looks good so far, but unfinished to me. I think it would benefit from a dark wash, to simulate the dark brown gunk collecting around the waffles and other places. I would add a couple of oil paints and a can of mineral spirits to your weathering tools. Mix up a thin wash and apply with a soft brush with the car laying flat. HTH, Tom
Sounds good...Thanks. Can you list specific colors?
Driline
I would start with burnt umber and raw umber. Any brand should work, but I would avoid the cheaper brands. I use Grumbaucher. I prefer mineral spirits to turpentine/turpenoid. It seems "cleaner", turpentine smells, is a little gummy and can dry with a sheen to it. You can get a small can at the arts and crafts store or a larger can for much cheaper at Walmart or the hardware store.
Tom
Attaboy Driline!
Seriousely, it looks good. Not quite as dark a rust or as grimey as the original. Maybe some better lighting and a few more shots from different angles would help. Hard to see the same effect in indoor light as in sunshine.
Driline, sure looks good to me, nice job! I think the only thing I would've done differently, is I would've scabbed-in some styrene on the sidesills to get it closer to the prototype. That's just my preference...your's may vary.
Thanks for the "how I did it." THAT'S what I always thought these forums were supposed to be about, a resource for tips, tricks, and inspiration.
Chris
The Cedar cRapids Industrial Branch: Proudly Shipping Yesterday's CrunchBerries Tomorrow!
Driline thats a good weathering job especially the roof.
I have been experimenting with similar techniques. These cars were done with artists oils. 6 colors in all. Adding some chalk in a dark rust mix created some texture then when all the oils were dry I added a layer of chalks to tie it all together. I used black for a few deap rusty run spots and a makeup sponge with white to hilight trucks and edges. By the way trucks and couplers were done with acrylics and Mig pigments.
As you can see I gat carried away on at least one of the above cars.
Now if I could only add attachments I would show you the roof on the boxcar.
John
The roof,
These cars were done with acrylics and mig pigments.
As you can see I still have a heavy hand and will work on a lighter effect for my next weathering project.
Driline,
A sincere thank you for this "primer". You have given me the confidence to try a weathering job. Your effort is very good. I also do not plan to use grafitti.
Thanks again and let's see more of your work!
Driline- Thank you! You are starting what I'd hope would happen.Only your second attempt? That gives me hope. At the risk of sounding like I'm trying to be an expert, and I'm not, maybe a bit more rust and mainly grunge at the seam at the base of the sides and sorta carry onto the the side frame to get it dirtier than the rest of the car? Especially under and around the door area.
Thanks for the "instructions". This could turn out to be a fantastic thread.
spidge- My favorite is the first photo of the hoppers. As you pointed out others appear to have a heavy hand. Not near as heavy as mine though. I would be happy if I was at the point you are. Very happy. The roof looks real good and so does the Sante Fe box as well as the D & RGW. Now that one looks like it's been rode hard and put away dry out west.
Todd
Central Illinoyz
In order to keep my position as Master and Supreme Ruler of the House, I don't argue with my wife.
I'm a small town boy. A product of two people from even smaller towns. I don’t talk on topic….. I just talk.
Great work, hard to tell from real stuff, I wonder how the guys feel with their 500 cars that are bright and shiny (fresh off the lot) feel when they see photos such as these? do they actually go into shock, as you may note I'm from the "If it ain't weathered, it ain't finished" school. Nice work, guys.
I guess I will jump in. Hopefully it won't get locked. Just a couple of old shots!! "Ann Arbor car was shot inside. Seems like it wanted to rain that day".
"Rust, whats not to love?"
tatans Great work, hard to tell from real stuff, I wonder how the guys feel with their 500 cars that are bright and shiny (fresh off the lot) feel when they see photos such as these? do they actually go into shock, as you may note I'm from the "If it ain't weathered, it ain't finished" school. Nice work, guys.
You mean like at many train shows.
Robby, nice weathering as usual. Care to share some of your techniques here?
John........Just practice and lots of patience. Some thin brushes, powders, oils, and some dullcote. I start with a fade of "testors white" air brush. Let that dry for a day. Then I take some powders and go along the ribs of the boxcars (hoppers are done different). Dullcote. Let that dry, and then add some rust pits, streaks, etc. Dullcote. Let that dry. Then I do the underneath. I just do a dusty/grime look. With a mix of powders. Dullcote, and let that dry. I always do the roof last. I sometimes use the real rusting agent, but most of the time its a rust color wash.
Hope this helps.
Robby P. John........Just practice and lots of patience. Some thin brushes, powders, oils, and some dullcote. I start with a fade of "testors white" air brush. Let that dry for a day. Then I take some powders and go along the ribs of the boxcars (hoppers are done different). Dullcote. Let that dry, and then add some rust pits, streaks, etc. Dullcote. Let that dry. Then I do the underneath. I just do a dusty/grime look. With a mix of powders. Dullcote, and let that dry. I always do the roof last. I sometimes use the real rusting agent, but most of the time its a rust color wash. Hope this helps.
Thanks Robby. It does help a lot. Its the lack of chalk before the pits and streaks that I am missing.
You the MAN.
Thanks, Driline for starting a weathering thread. Good work, everyone. Here's a B&M boxcar I just did tonite.
OK, I used some turpentine to remove some of the excess weathering done on these hoppers. I then restreaked the cars with no additional paint as there was plenty already there, and allowed them to dry some. I know they need more dry time but I will do a full day next time. I sealed with Dulcoat and added some chalk over the top and Dulcoated again. It was to late to add the chalks before the paint on these cars but next time I will follow Robby's recomendations.
The first pick is the prototype I was shooting for on the Cargill car.
Thanks again Robby.
Gramps, nice weathering job.
Robby P.John........Just practice and lots of patience. Some thin brushes, powders, oils, and some dullcote. I start with a fade of "testors white" air brush. Let that dry for a day. Then I take some powders and go along the ribs of the boxcars (hoppers are done different). Dullcote. Let that dry, and then add some rust pits, streaks, etc. Dullcote. Let that dry. Then I do the underneath. I just do a dusty/grime look. With a mix of powders. Dullcote, and let that dry. I always do the roof last. I sometimes use the real rusting agent, but most of the time its a rust color wash. Hope this helps.
Excellent Robby. This is what I was hoping for. Some of you Pro's out there please list EXACTLY what steps you took to achieve your final weathered product. Step1...Step2....Step3...etc. etc...
Packers#1What PSI did you use on the white paint? I've always wanted to fade my cars, never tried it because I didn't have an airbrush.
Ok, I'd like to use you as a guinea pig. If I can make my boxcar look like that on only two try's certainly you can too. I use PSI 40. Well as soon as you get an airbrush lets get you started
I guess one of my main points here is that YOU DON'T HAVE TO BE A PRO to achieve this level of weathering. This is was my 2nd train car EVER. The first was this flatcar you see here.
So I'm challenging somebody.....anybody to try this and post your pics here. Obviously you'll have to have the following items
One more little tidbit. Photograph your weathered models OUTSIDE if at all possible. Most of us don't have a nice camera studio with plenty of light like Robby.
They'll look sooooo much better outside and we can actually SEE them.
Robby P. I guess I will jump in. Hopefully it won't get locked. Just a couple of old shots!! "Ann Arbor car was shot inside. Seems like it wanted to rain that day".
Extremely Nice.
Question. What did you do to achieve the "DARK" rust spots on the side of this boxcar?
Trust me. A squad has been dispatched to come over to this forum and down everyone here til the thread is locked.
In the mean time I'll shoot.
"Being misunderstood is the fate of all true geniuses"
EXPERIMENTATION TO BRING INNOVATION
http://community.webshots.com/album/288541251nntnEK?start=588
Driline Robby P. I guess I will jump in. Hopefully it won't get locked. Just a couple of old shots!! "Ann Arbor car was shot inside. Seems like it wanted to rain that day". Extremely Nice. Question. What did you do to achieve the "DARK" rust spots on the side of this boxcar? Gouache color? Specific powder color?
I would like to know how to do the rust pits to.
What is the difference between Gouache and oil paints?
Aggro, I guess I need to send you a SD card for further instructions?
I'm definitely not in the same league as you guy's but I thought I'd toss this in anyway. I built this car about ten years ago so it's a little crude but oh well.
Driline and Robbie - good job. Looks very real. Boomer, the car has a subtle aged look. Not every car is a rust bucket- they all start shiny and new and acquire their personality gradually.
Boomer Red I'm definitely not in the same league as you guy's but I thought I'd toss this in anyway. I built this car about ten years ago so it's a little crude but oh well.
Crude! Are you kidding me? Very nice. Wood chips under the logs, nicely weathered sides, rusted up trucks, and we can still read the reporting #'s.
I think your holding back.
duckdogger Not every car is a rust bucket- they all start shiny and new and acquire their personality gradually.
Not every car is a rust bucket- they all start shiny and new and acquire their personality gradually.
Thats what I am working towards.
AggroJonesTrust me. A squad has been dispatched to come over to this forum and down everyone here til the thread is locked. In the mean time I'll shoot.
jeremy
eloggerAggroJonesTrust me. A squad has been dispatched to come over to this forum and down everyone here til the thread is locked. In the mean time I'll shoot. jeremy
Driline.....The "dark" spots was done with a mix of burnt umber (windsor newton oils), and dark weathering powders (dark red, and black).
Spidge- Much, much better! You got it going good with the two hoppers
DrilineSo I'm challenging somebody.....anybody to try this and post your pics here.
Driline- I'll take you up. I've got an airbrush but I've been holding off until I get some more tips and checkout some more work of others before I destroy another car like I've done before. Twice. The powders I do not have..., yet. Because of my schedule and of course funding it may be relatively slow going but between this thread and some help Robby's offered I think the door has been opened wide to the world of weathering. I've got some old TYCO cars from my youth in the early 70's to use as practice so I'm not going on the greatness of the cars, but who knows I may end up changing couplers and wheels and using them!
Here's my failed attempt. Sort of a where I am now photo. No misconceptions it is good at all. It will be "erased" some day
Soon, hopefully when I find the wifes camera, I'll select a car and post a before picture and then get started. I already have some reefer white Polyscale to fade with. so I've got all I need to get started.
First question, India ink. Does that seem to be the best to use as a black wash or would any water based black do? I do not have India Ink, I do have Folk Art. But there is a H.L. nearby so I can get some.
TMarshFirst question, India ink. Does that seem to be the best to use as a black wash or would any water based black do? I do not have India Ink, I do have Folk Art. But there is a H.L. nearby so I can get some.
Not sure. I've always used India Ink. Now that I think about it. It may be only a few drops of ink per 3oz. of alcohol to get that washed look. So scratch the 50/50 mixture as I think that will be way to dark.
A couple of peculiarities for your perusal here-----
On this one---a different colourization showed up
Also note the extra step up under the door
And then the patched--in metal--boxcar with an extreme dose of rust
Things that make one go HMMM
Any argument carried far enough will end up in Semantics--Hartz's law of rhetoric Emerald. Leemer and Southern The route of the Sceptre Express Barry
I just started my blog site...more stuff to come...
http://modeltrainswithmusic.blogspot.ca/
Thanks for starting this thread and going to the trouble of listing step by step instructions. When I get to the point where I need to weather my cars, I will follow your instructions. The boxcar and flat look great, I don't see how you could improve them much more.
Robbie, Aggro, Grampy and others, nice work.
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/
TMarsh-That hopper looks like you used that liquid instant rust product on it. (the stuff that smells like vinager) I found if you add a couple drops of alcohol to that stuff it doesn't bead up as bad on the surface. I pour a little in a cap and add a couple drops of isopropyl. Works great for weathering trucks and wheels.
Geared SteamThe boxcar and flat look great, I don't see how you could improve them much more. Robbie, Aggro, Grampy and others, nice work.
The boxcar and flat look great, I don't see how you could improve them much more.
Ha! Remember my car was a 2 day job. You want to see a Pro look at Aggro's stuff. There is NO comparison. He's Rembrandt, and I'm in First grade using fingerpaints Although Robbie is fast on his heels.
DrilineGeared SteamThe boxcar and flat look great, I don't see how you could improve them much more. Robbie, Aggro, Grampy and others, nice work. Ha! Remember my car was a 2 day job. You want to see a Pro look at Aggro's stuff. There is NO comparison. He's Rembrandt, and I'm in First grade using fingerpaints Although Robbie is fast on his heels.
Neutrino
It took you long enough! Where you been?
I thought you'd like that comment
DrilineYou want to see a Pro look at Aggro's stuff. There is NO comparison. He's Rembrandt
Indeed he is, no comparison. I need about 500 of his trees as well.
As promised, a few better close up pics.
Remember........with the right tools, you can make your cars look just like this on your 2nd try too.
Lets see some N Scale examples
N Scale Diesels......I like 'em
Check out page 2 of my N scale examples. Maybe not quite where I want to be but in time and with more practice and shared techniques I will get there.
Neutrino Driline Geared Steam The boxcar and flat look great, I don't see how you could improve them much more. Robbie, Aggro, Grampy and others, nice work. Ha! Remember my car was a 2 day job. You want to see a Pro look at Aggro's stuff. There is NO comparison. He's Rembrandt, and I'm in First grade using fingerpaints Although Robbie is fast on his heels.
Driline Geared Steam The boxcar and flat look great, I don't see how you could improve them much more. Robbie, Aggro, Grampy and others, nice work. Ha! Remember my car was a 2 day job. You want to see a Pro look at Aggro's stuff. There is NO comparison. He's Rembrandt, and I'm in First grade using fingerpaints Although Robbie is fast on his heels.
Geared Steam The boxcar and flat look great, I don't see how you could improve them much more. Robbie, Aggro, Grampy and others, nice work.
Drilline if you want my critique on the BN I can do so.
Did you remove the trucks when you did (airbrushed) the body or just mask/block it off?
AggroJonesDrilline if you want my critique on the BN I can do so.
jwhitten Did you remove the trucks when you did (airbrushed) the body or just mask/block it off?
Yes, trucks were removed before I airbrushed the body. They were painted a grimy black using FLOQUIL brand paint including the underbody and then I used a little bit of sophisticated finishes on the springs, and then A.I.M. chalk from there using dark rust and browns, kind of mixed around.
Aggro.....Question about the 3 foot rule. As you know some modelers say that if it looks great at 3' its good enough to display.
In your honest opinion would you be able to tell the difference between say, one of your prize models and my obomination at 3 feet or would mine stick out like a sore thumb???
DrilineLike I'm not happy with the brush strokes present on the white B. Maybe I should not have used a brush with the India Ink and perhaps used a makeup sponge instead? Don't really know.....
My attempts so far seem to work better with the sponge----but then in N scale----??
BTW--does anyone know what will cause pitting on a Mehano E7/8 body? I used the usual washes and such but-----?
Fantasy weathered car.
It's a fantasy car for a number of reasons.
It represents a 53' Evans car.
It is an Athearn car. The Athearn car has the wrong roof and is too short by about three feet. It also lacks the brake rigging/detail that the proto obviously has. The Atlas car is correct for the prototype, but I didn't have time to strip/paint and decal a GT scheme Atlas example. Atlas has never done the 53' Evans car in the GT scheme.
The weathering was done using multiple proto photos, but it isn't an exact replica of an actual car. So while the car is about 90% correct, it doesn't fit into any category other than fantasy. This isn't a bad thing. All I do are fantasy cars and never claim anything else. The weathering on my cars is always based on real weathering processes and I try to use artistic license with restraint.
The lettering is a bit off too. I used a RR Gothic, reversing the "t" in order to make the "I" and the rub-on lettering is not something I use all the time. I am moving in two weeks and wanted the car finished for the customer before then.
Page two huh, well let me say something to bring it to page one.
I've learned three lessons today. I'll pass them on for those who may not know. For those of you who do..... Have a laugh on me. But don't use them all up, I'm sure there'll be plenty more to come.
Lesson 1- When applying your fade, be sure to do it in good lighting. What looks good in fair lighting will be too much when you bring it to a well lit place.
Lesson 2- Even after the paint is dry, the moisture from your favorite beverage bottle will be transferred to your fingers and when the model is handled, and will erase what you've done where your fingers where. Use a coolie, or make sure your fingers are dry if you have to handle the model.
Lesson 3- a little paint goes a looooong way. Either mix very little or have another empty paint bottle to store the un used paint for the next time. I would recommend the later.
I was intending to take a before picture but after finding the wifes camera I discovered the battery was dead and the son has the charger at his house. However it may still happen as I will be removing the fade which should be fairly easy after learning lesson 2.
hey tmarsh... it's all good, we've all learned those lessons... sometimes i find it helpful to wear latex gloves when weathering... just to make sure i don't get fingerprints or the oil from my skin on my work...
good luck,
Unitl I can find one of my weathering walk throughs to post here, I'll just shoot some gerneral rules.
-Painting a car a faded color looks different than fade lightening a pre-existing color. Example you have a medium blue car... you fade it with white. That has a different starting presence than a car you straight paint baby blue.
-Drybrushing works better on flat surfaces. Not just for highliting edges. In cases you can tone broad surfaces by dryhbrushing.
-Don't put a solvent wash directly over solvent based paint...you might fudge your model.
-Gouache washes are magical.
-Always were gloves when handling stuff.
Driline AggroJones Drilline if you want my critique on the BN I can do so. What I would really like from you is for you to offer ONE and only ONE piece of information on how you weathered your car everytime you post a picture. That way maybe some of us can use it to make ours a bit better.Critique if you want, like the post says...but I know SOME of the problems, I just don't know how to fixum. Like I'm not happy with the brush strokes present on the white B. Maybe I should not have used a brush with the India Ink and perhaps used a makeup sponge instead? Don't really know.....
AggroJones Drilline if you want my critique on the BN I can do so.
There's that mysterious term again, "gouache". What, where, when, and how? Where does Dullcote come into play?
duckdogger There's that mysterious term again, "gouache". What, where, when, and how? Where does Dullcote come into play?
Supposedly thinner than oils but has a quality that is laking in the oils. Not cheap, At Micheals they were twice as expensive as oils, but hey how much do you need?
I have yet to get some as I am still experimenting a bit. Maybe if I new what effect they would render I may rush down and get some. Aggro?
AggroJonesGouache washes are magical.
All I've ever done with gouache is to dab it on and dump powder over it. Are you saying you can thin it (with water?) and brush it down as a wash?
eloggersometimes i find it helpful to wear latex gloves when weathering...
I did when I was preping and painting. It was later as I was critiqueing myself that I yutzed it up.
Like you said it will be only one of many lessons. I'll probably be concentrating on some new technque to me and forget some basic things, (like don't get acrylics wet , don't touch unfinished model with bare hands, etc.). That's what I usually do. And I'll do it again.
"Google" gouache.
DrilineAggroJonesGouache washes are magical. All I've ever done with gouache is to dab it on and dump powder over it. Are you saying you can thin it (with water?) and brush it down as a wash?
So being a water color, water or windshield washing fluid makes an excellent thinner. (Windshield washing fluid because of the surfactant and a small amount of alcohol.)
NeutrinoSo being a water color, water or windshield washing fluid makes an excellent thinner. (Windshield washing fluid because of the surfactant and a small amount of alcohol.)
So windshield fluid over water as a thinner?
DrilineNeutrinoSo being a water color, water or windshield washing fluid makes an excellent thinner. (Windshield washing fluid because of the surfactant and a small amount of alcohol.) So windshield fluid over water as a thinner?
Try both and see how they work for you.
I would tell you to stop dumping your powders too, but I sell them so if you want to waste them that's your business. With powders though, less is more.
Sophisticated Finishes has it's place when thinned and applied correctly and to the right surface. Your roof's rust looks too large to represent scale rust. (An oxymoron!) I thin mine with distilled water and apply it in small batches and thin layers. I see no reason to use it on a freight car truck in interchange, it's just too scaly and unrealistic. Now if the car's sitting in the weeds, that's another story.
NeutrinoYour roof's rust looks too large to represent scale rust.
I totally agree.
A lot of gouache back story but how is it used? As a wash? Same process as an oil wash? Does it require sealing with Dull-cote for preservation? Can small amounts of chalk or weathering powders be applied while it is wet to provide texture and depth?
duckdoggerCan small amounts of chalk or weathering powders be applied while it is wet to provide texture and depth?
Thats how I used it on the boxcar you see above...
duckdogger A lot of gouache back story but how is it used? As a wash? Same process as an oil wash? Does it require sealing with Dull-cote for preservation? Can small amounts of chalk or weathering powders be applied while it is wet to provide texture and depth?
Gouache is relatively opaque and with the rich colors of the powder and gouache, they tend to just coat and leave little depth. Oil paints work much better IMO when blended with powder, using Mineral Spirits as the thinner.
If I was on a budget and was looking to go to Michael's or an Art supply shop to purchase the most for my money I would pick up the smaller tubes of Windsor and Newton Artist Oils and pass on the Gouache. One learning curve at a time is always cheaper than buying some of everything and not mastering something before trying another medium. Wal*Mart also sells gouache and artist oils in starter kits, they are relatively cheap and are fine for learning. Then just waltz over to the paint department and get a can of Odorless Mineral Spirits (Much cheaper than the little bottle they sell near the art supplies.) Pick yourself up a can of lacquer thinner too for clean-up, just make sure you take all the precautions when using some of these volatile liquids.
This was primarily done using just artist oils and weathering powders both blended and applied individually.
Is this stuff perfect? FAR from it. I still have much to learn.
This is one of the ways I use Sophisticated Finishes. This car represents a mill gon in captive service at a scrap dealer that hasn't been used for a while. The floor is a steel (nailable) deck, that's why the rust on what looks to be wood, but isn't.
An important tip is to wear latex gloves when working on your project car. Once you've washed the carbody to remove any dirt and oils from handling it during assemble or from general use you need to avoid handling it with your bare hands. This avoids leaving finger prints on the car from your skin''s natural oils or having your bare skin remove some of the washes/powders from the weathering process. As a general rule I wear latex gloves when handling the car until I fnished the weathering process and sealed everything with Dullcote.
spidge duckdogger There's that mysterious term again, "gouache". What, where, when, and how? Where does Dullcote come into play? Supposedly thinner than oils but has a quality that is laking in the oils. Not cheap, At Micheals they were twice as expensive as oils, but hey how much do you need? I have yet to get some as I am still experimenting a bit. Maybe if I new what effect they would render I may rush down and get some. Aggro?
OK, I'll bite...
I haven't done any freight car weathering in over a year, mainly because I've been trying to get more work done on my layout. But here's one I'd like to share, I've gotten mostly positive reactions to it: A CSX [ex-Chessie] PS2 100-ton cement hopper. (My apologies to you MTW guys who've already seen enough of this thing.) I was lucky enough the find photos of both sides on rrpicturearchives.net, so I had those to guide me.
First a broad side view:
Click HERE to see the corresponding proto shot:
Next, a 3/4 angle view of the opposite side:
Click HERE for the matching proto photo:
...and a top-down shot:
What I did:
First I took an Athearn r-t-r PS2 covered hopper in B&O colors, rubbed off the factory lettering, and airbrushed it with a base coat of Polyscale UP Armour Yellow. Then I sprayed on a thin coat of gloss and applied the Chessie decals. After allowing a few days for everything to dry, I airbrushed a few layers of thinned Armour Yellow wash to make the Chessie lettering and logo appear faded. This gave me a naturally dull surface to apply a dusting of Bragdon powders all around, it stuck to it quite nicely.
For the rust streaks I brushed on water-mixable oil paints, with gouache for the deeper pitted rust spots. I also used gouache for the base coat on the trucks and wheels, topped with some lighter-colored Bragdon powders. The wheel splatter stains on the ends were the most troublesome part of this project: I had to redo them 4 times before I was satisfied with the way they looked. It was always a case of my doing "just one more iddy-bitty touch-up" - then screwing it up so bad I wound up having to do it over. I started out using Bragdon powder, then when I couldn't wipe off the screw-ups, I mixed some water-soluble oil paint (Yellow Ochra, I think?) that matched the Armour Yellow pretty closely, and blended in the splatter stains with Burned Umber and Black oil paints. This is why it took me nearly 3 weeks to finish the thing.
-Ken in Maryland (B&O modeler, former CSX modeler)
Driline AggroJones Drilline if you want my critique on the BN I can do so. Aggro.....Question about the 3 foot rule. As you know some modelers say that if it looks great at 3' its good enough to display. In your honest opinion would you be able to tell the difference between say, one of your prize models and my obomination at 3 feet or would mine stick out like a sore thumb???
This thread is now an inspiration!
I to the masters of weathering!
CSX_road_slugOK, I'll bite...I haven't done any freight car weathering in over a year, mainly because I've been trying to get more work done on my layout. But here's one I'd like to share, I've gotten mostly positive reactions to it: A CSX [ex-Chessie] PS2 100-ton cement hopper. (My apologies to you MTW guys who've already seen enough of this thing.) I was lucky enough the find photos of both sides on rrpicturearchives.net, so I had those to guide me.... This is why it took me nearly 3 weeks to finish the thing.
I like what you've done with this car. I wonder what became of the cut lever and air hoses? I'd have to unpack mine to see if they came with both, but if they did, I know that even looking at these cars, the stirrups fall off, so kudos to you for doing all this work on such a delicate model. I try not to handle these too much and with this much work it must have been fun! Three weeks is pretty fast for a car this nice.
I like the colors and tone of the weathering. The trucks look somewhat monotone, but everything else looks very nicely done.
NeutrinoI like what you've done with this car. I wonder what became of the cut lever and air hoses? I'd have to unpack mine to see if they came with both, .... I like the colors and tone of the weathering. The trucks look somewhat monotone, but everything else looks very nicely done.
I like what you've done with this car. I wonder what became of the cut lever and air hoses? I'd have to unpack mine to see if they came with both, ....
Thank you Jerry for the feedback. I don't remember seeing a separate bag of add-on detail parts with this car - but then again, it's not a Genesis model. I could probably bend up some cut levers myself, I've done that with missing loco handrails a few times. IIRC, I did have to re-cement at least one of the stirrups back on.
As for the trucks, a bit of extra Bragdon 'dirt' should correct that. But I also suspect the less-than-perfect indoor photo lighting muted some of the color differences - I should have shot it in direct sunlight. [NOTE TO SELF: Get busy and build that portable diorama for outside photos!]
Heres one of my weathering run throughs.
This is the before shots.
FIRST! We come in with a little light sanding with wet 1000 grit sand paper to some of the lettering. WET.
Then we airbrush laquer thinned Floquil white over the lettering to further fade them.
We're gonna take a lil burnt umber gouche, and burnt sienna water mixable oil paint and cross them together. An 18/0 liner brush, that is used to the streaks and a little rust action happening. After that I sealed it with future floor wax. Thats about it for now.
M'kay after the floor wax was put on I used graffiti decals for some of the tags. Micro-sol treatment, yadda, yadda....lightly future over them to seal the edges.
Then I come in with a first grime wash, made of watercolor, chalk, and gouche. hit the cracks and general body. And work it vertically with a q-tip.
Next it was Testor's dullcoted, and dried a while. Then I came in added more graffiti, touched up the rust some. Then came a dusting of Bragdon Enterprises weathering powder. Some gray, little tan, little white.
A few airbrush touches and some under body dust kick up. There it goes. The end.
It´s wonderful, it´s marvelous - it is absolutely fantastic!
Aggro, you make things sound so easy, but I know how much experience, a trained eye and patience it takes!
P.S. We need to start a fan club!
O.k. it seems that almost all of the cars pictured are from modern times. What about the Transition Era? Does anyone weather those?
Just off the top of my head, and please realize I've never weathered a car yet, but would it not be the same as above, just no graffiti?
In any case, what is the deal with the future floor wax?!?!?! Can you elaborate on this a bit? Is it a spray?? How is that applied. Do I need my car buffer too??
Aggro, Slug, Neutrino - thanks for sharing your techniques. Really liked the results.
Tried the gouache process on my wife's face last night after she was asleep. I thought the effect of grime, dirt, and rust came out nice. She was just so negative about the whole thing.
Hansel - Here are some transition era cars that I've done using only chalk dust.
Clicking on the image should take you to my photobucket album and a larger photo. Feel free to browse the rest of the pics. Most cars are twenty year + old Athearn blue box kits that I've finally gotten around to completing now that I've fully retired.
Chuck
Grand River & Monongah Railroad and subsidiary Monongah Railway
Sir Madog It´s wonderful, it´s marvelous - it is absolutely fantastic! Aggro, you make things sound so easy, but I know how much experience, a trained eye and patience it takes! P.S. We need to start a fan club!
Aggro,
Thanks for posting on here, I thought I had lost your tutortials from the other site after not paying the ransom. Glad to see this info is still avaliable for free. :)
Stunning work on here. No way I'm posting any of mine! I'm definitely inspired to try to improve though, so thankyou all.
Mike
Modelling the UK in 00, and New England - MEC, B&M, D&H and Guilford - in H0
AGGRO- Thanks for the tip of 1000 grit wet sandpaper. I've tried dry before with less than desired results.
I have a qustion. Why use a gloss finish in the mix? Why not just stick with dullcote all the way trough. I've heard of using Future before (I also remember it well when advertised as floor polish) but assumed it was dull the way we use it. The way you describe it is..... glossy?
LocoIn any case, what is the deal with the future floor wax?!?!?! Can you elaborate on this a bit? Is it a spray?? How is that applied.
Haven't tried Future myself, but google makes it fairly easy to find info on most subjects:
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
Smile,Stein
TMarsh AGGRO- Thanks for the tip of 1000 grit wet sandpaper. I've tried dry before with less than desired results. I have a qustion. Why use a gloss finish in the mix? Why not just stick with dullcote all the way trough. I've heard of using Future before (I also remember it well when advertised as floor polish) but assumed it was dull the way we use it. The way you describe it is..... glossy?
Would you please post a few pics of your model railroad, Jerry?
I can't recall any posted.
This IS a MRR forum, right?
Terry
Terry in NW Wisconsin
Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel
AggroJonesCause you can't apply decals on a flat surface. Future makes it glossy smooth.
I can't believe I didn't think of that. Thanks.
these are some great tips aggro, you should post them over at MTW...
terry, isn't this a thread about weathered models?
After saying I wouldn't show any, I decided to try some more weathering because this is a very inspiring thread. I had a bash at a very cheap one - old Lifelike.
No airbrush so it's all brushed-on acrylics. Just a trace of pastel dust on there from a half-hearted earlier effort. I went over the top of it.
Feel free to let me know how bad it is.
mike,
i think that car actually looks pretty good... i like the colors on the door and the overall grunginess works well... a quick tip, you can add a little bit darker color to the center of your rust spots and it will add more depth to your rust...
mikelh do you care to tell us how you did your trucks?
logger every thing I said here is located at MTW. Certain people, who shall remain nameless, choose not to acknowledge thats all.
Thanks Jeremy I'll give that a go!
Aggro the trucks were just burnt sienna with a bit of black mixed into it, then some raw umber plus a little white dragged over the top later on.
Dulling your cars.....
I have tried 3 items so far.
1. Dullcoat
2. Sauve Hairspray
3. Krylon or Rustoleum Matte Finish
I find that the Dullcoat looks to most "dull" of the 3. Is there another economical alternative that has the dullness as Dullcoat?
Thanks, Hansel
HanselDulling your cars..... I have tried 3 items so far. 1. Dullcoat 2. Sauve Hairspray 3. Krylon or Rustoleum Matte Finish I find that the Dullcoat looks to most "dull" of the 3. Is there another economical alternative that has the dullness as Dullcoat? Thanks, Hansel
If you are restricted to only using "Rattle Cans", Dull*Cote" will always give you the best look. Krylon and Rustoleum Matte finish is just that, a "Matte" (Creates a soft permanent satin finish. Eliminates light reflection.) and not a true dull finish. Hairspray has a gloss to it.
There are quite a few model applicable alternatives in liquid form, but they all must be sprayed with an air brush.
HanselI find that the Dullcoat looks to most "dull" of the 3. Is there another economical alternative that has the dullness as Dullcoat? Thanks, Hansel
I'm thinking of trying out that DullCoat myself--how light of a coat do you spray on--and can you do this with 'Rattle Cans'?
Are Alcohol washes using brush effective in dulling? They seem to be doing something but-----?
Dull Coat comes in spray can and in bottles for use in a air brush. The air brush will give you a thinner coat, but if your careful the spray can will work just as good IMO. A alcohol wash is good for making grime etc, but I don't think its much in the way of dulling, just dirtying up a car.
Another fine car.
DT&Ifan Aggro, Another fine car.
blownout cylinder I'm thinking of trying out that DullCoat myself--how light of a coat do you spray on--and can you do this with 'Rattle Cans'? Are Alcohol washes using brush effective in dulling? They seem to be doing something but-----?
My first attempt at weathering a trio of Soo Line covered hoppers. I think they turned out cheesy. I'm not happy with the results at all. I tried to copy the original picture shown here, but just couldn't get the rust patch to stop short of the bottom of the car. I tried gouache wash, but it ended up everywhere giving the entire car a "rusty" look. Chalk weathering didn't really give me the look I was looking for either as it really wasn't the right color and tended to pile up on the bottom rim of the hopper, also I couldn't tell what the top of the hopper should look like, so I'm sure its wrong too.
So I've decided its a "fantasy" car as nueterino would say.....Must be the term you give a car when you screw it up?
Driline: I've seen a few hoppers that had that bottom ledge get a lot of surface rust like the ones you've done. "Fantasy" or not they seem to work here. Which reminds me--I need to bring the camera along so when I go by the 'racetrack'--CN's yards here in London ON--I can take those ferschluggener pix---they do come in handy
AggroJones
Ooo, oo, ooo!!! I just happened to wander in here tonight. Lost track after the first page or so and see this! OK Aggro, tell me about that car. How did you come to do that, and is it for sale??? The Finger Lakes Scenic Railway is my local railroad and I don't often see models of any of their cars. Inquiring minds want to know! Another WOW from Aggro BTW!
73
Ray Seneca Lake, Ontario, and Western R.R. (S.L.O.&W.) in HO
We'll get there sooner or later!
Thanks you. The paint scheme is actually similar to a group of SRN owned FMC boxcars. I went with FGLK because they own all kinds of weirdo patch job boxcars. I think the overall look fits.
Yes its already sold.
Drilline although those hoppers don't quite look like that photo I have seen real hoppers that look like the ones you did. BTW a crazy, even more rustastic than the shot you used, Accurail Soo hopper is on my list of things to do. On the back burners.
AggroJonesDrilline although those hoppers don't quite look like that photo I have seen real hoppers that look like the ones you did. BTW a crazy, even more rustastic than the shot you used, Accurail Soo hopper is on my list of things to do. On the back burners.
Lets move that job to the front burner shall we? I wanna see how its SUPPOSED to look.
AggroJonesThanks you. The paint scheme is actually similar to a group of SRN owned FMC boxcars. I went with FGLK because they own all kinds of weirdo patch job boxcars. I think the overall look fits. Yes its already sold.
They sure do have a bunch of weirdo patch job box cars. I think every one they own falls into that class.
Let me know if you do another!!!
Driline - I like your cars. They are showing rust stains running down the side of the cars. Your prototype reflecs either a film of rust on the side sheetmetal resulting from the original paint (both finished and prime coats) having worn away, or the finish coat has worn off and we are seeing the primer coat. Either are possible as we were running the Soo cars all during the mid-70s when I worked for ACF. That's a long time for any paint to be around.
2 identical Details West BN boxcars.....
1) air brush diluted white polly scale paint to get the fade (next time floquil oil based for smoother look)
2) alcohol and india ink mixture to darken crevices and smooth fade
3) sophisticated finishes for rust, diluted with water
4) A.I.M. mixed rust colored chalk over sophisticated finishes to blend in rust
5) dark gray, brown chalk to weather car sides...lightly.
6) NO Gouache used at all on this car.
7) Seal with floquil flat finish mixed with 50% thinner
Next boxcar
I could crank these out in my sleep. And I'm sure if you ask Aggro, he'll tell you it looks like I did just that!
2nd boxcar
I guess I will add some.
Robby P. I guess I will add some.
Do you just eyeball your rust streaks so they are perfectly vertical?
Some people draw a line and go back over it. I just eyeball it.
Freehand.
Lets take it though an Accurail hopper.
Here we have the out of box kit.
First we take 400 grit sand paper and lightly scuff the lettering in a circular motion. Dry sand. Not wet here. When we're done we go over the areas again with 1000 grit sandpaper to help smooth over inperfections in the surface.
More to come later..
Unbelievable! If I didn't know it was a model I'd swear it was the real thing.
Sweet another tutorial from Aggro. Looking forward to the updates.
I am brand-new to this forum, so bear with me, guys! I think the weathering on this boxcar is great! In my opinion, it doesn't take much to overdo weathering and make the job look like a toy train with some flat paints splashed on. This car looks just right, to me. I do agree with some of the comments concerning the graffitti - there is so much on so many of the prototype rolling stock these days that a little bit would not have been out of place, but that is up to each individual modeler. I especially liked the way the paint appears to be oxidizing, with just a little bit of a white-ish sheen. I hope that I will be able to achieve that look on some of my stuff, some day. I enjoy building structures and kit-bashing, and I do some weathering on those. Is this the proper forum for structures, or primarily rolling stock? Thanks, for letting me be a part of this discussion. Kentucky Bill
Aggro - you have captured the look of thinning paint and the resulting emergence of rust on that tank car spot-on.
Waiting patiently!!!!
You guys have been doing someGREAT work. Love Aggro's tank car. More please!
Yes we are on time but this is yesterdays train
This thread has been bumped for Jeremy.
Here are a couple of mine: