My original photos were deleted because of a couple of curse words in the graffiti. So I had to edit them a little bit in order to repost them so the precious kids of the world today do not see it. Anyway you can beat these pictures if youd like. I weathered these this week and also hand painted my graffiti on the cars yesterday. They look pretty good to me but I may be wrong? The graffiti on the boxcars on the bottom look a little bit better in the pics because they were dullcoted at that time. After the pictures were taken I did the top cars too and that took the shine away
OzarkBelt wrote: jktrains wrote: OzarkBelt wrote: Here's another favorite:OzarkBelt, a few comments.There is more to weathering than taking some brown paint and a paint brush and slopping some on here and there. Go online and find some prototype pictures of the piece of equipment you're working on and use them to guide what you do. The pic doesn't have to be the exact loco or car your working on, but the closer it is the better.You're missing the headlight lens on the loco. The model should have come with one, if its lost use a MV lens as a replacement.Scenery wise, fall foliage is probably one of the toughest things to pull off correctly. IMO snow is the other. Again, there's more to doing fall foliage than taking some red, or yellow or orange, WS clump foliage and gluing it onto a tree armature. While it is now Spring, think back to Fall. Most trees don't turn single color throughout the whole tree. Instead they're a mix of colors - part green, part yellow, part red etc. Consider mixing the colors or even try airbrushing some of the color on so that you avoid that monotone look. Another excellent product to try are the Noch leaves. They come in many different shades and look excellent.Man, got more work to do! The loco did NOT come w/ a lense (I did buy it new), I'll see if i got one in the scrap box!
jktrains wrote: OzarkBelt wrote: Here's another favorite:OzarkBelt, a few comments.There is more to weathering than taking some brown paint and a paint brush and slopping some on here and there. Go online and find some prototype pictures of the piece of equipment you're working on and use them to guide what you do. The pic doesn't have to be the exact loco or car your working on, but the closer it is the better.You're missing the headlight lens on the loco. The model should have come with one, if its lost use a MV lens as a replacement.Scenery wise, fall foliage is probably one of the toughest things to pull off correctly. IMO snow is the other. Again, there's more to doing fall foliage than taking some red, or yellow or orange, WS clump foliage and gluing it onto a tree armature. While it is now Spring, think back to Fall. Most trees don't turn single color throughout the whole tree. Instead they're a mix of colors - part green, part yellow, part red etc. Consider mixing the colors or even try airbrushing some of the color on so that you avoid that monotone look. Another excellent product to try are the Noch leaves. They come in many different shades and look excellent.
OzarkBelt wrote: Here's another favorite:
Here's another favorite:
OzarkBelt, a few comments.
There is more to weathering than taking some brown paint and a paint brush and slopping some on here and there. Go online and find some prototype pictures of the piece of equipment you're working on and use them to guide what you do. The pic doesn't have to be the exact loco or car your working on, but the closer it is the better.
You're missing the headlight lens on the loco. The model should have come with one, if its lost use a MV lens as a replacement.
Scenery wise, fall foliage is probably one of the toughest things to pull off correctly. IMO snow is the other. Again, there's more to doing fall foliage than taking some red, or yellow or orange, WS clump foliage and gluing it onto a tree armature. While it is now Spring, think back to Fall. Most trees don't turn single color throughout the whole tree. Instead they're a mix of colors - part green, part yellow, part red etc. Consider mixing the colors or even try airbrushing some of the color on so that you avoid that monotone look. Another excellent product to try are the Noch leaves. They come in many different shades and look excellent.
Man, got more work to do! The loco did NOT come w/ a lense (I did buy it new), I'll see if i got one in the scrap box!
ON a positive note, I'd say you got the "mudd" color just right! It looks to me like a bunch of teenagers grabbed some mud balls and whipped them pretty good at your passing train. Not that I'd ever done anything like that
"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot lose." - Jim Elliot Visit my blog! http://becomingawarriorpoet.blogspot.com
loathar wrote: PASMITH wrote:Peter Smith, MemphisI wouldn't have the nerve to begin to critique THAT!!
PASMITH wrote:Peter Smith, Memphis
I wouldn't have the nerve to begin to critique THAT!!
loathar.
What could you critique? I am not in the same league as 98% of you learned Gentlemen. When it comes to art like that, I am not even on the same planet. In my humble opinion, the Renaisance Art Masters would be in awe over detail like that.
Blue Flamer.
Driline wrote: doctorwayne wrote: I've found that the easiest way to make openings in this type of plastic is to drill a hole near the edge of where you want the opening, then use a saw blade in your X-Acto to cut around the inside of the rough opening. Trim to the line with a #11 blade and/or a file. I bought a "corner punch" (used for mortising hinges and such) but found that trying to punch out the window openings resulted in a lot of cracked and shattered sheet plastic. It would probably work for making true corners after the bulk of the material within the opening has been removed.I glued the shattered plastic (Walthers brick sheet) back together, and used stuff from the scrap box to build the office for Creechan Fine Fuels, a simple background structure. Window openings were cut using the method described.Wayne I see there is a Dr. in the house. Yes, that sounds like a good idea. I'll need to buy the saw blades, but I have everything else. I was concerned cutting the holes too big or not the right size. This will make it easy.
doctorwayne wrote: I've found that the easiest way to make openings in this type of plastic is to drill a hole near the edge of where you want the opening, then use a saw blade in your X-Acto to cut around the inside of the rough opening. Trim to the line with a #11 blade and/or a file. I bought a "corner punch" (used for mortising hinges and such) but found that trying to punch out the window openings resulted in a lot of cracked and shattered sheet plastic. It would probably work for making true corners after the bulk of the material within the opening has been removed.I glued the shattered plastic (Walthers brick sheet) back together, and used stuff from the scrap box to build the office for Creechan Fine Fuels, a simple background structure. Window openings were cut using the method described.Wayne
I've found that the easiest way to make openings in this type of plastic is to drill a hole near the edge of where you want the opening, then use a saw blade in your X-Acto to cut around the inside of the rough opening. Trim to the line with a #11 blade and/or a file. I bought a "corner punch" (used for mortising hinges and such) but found that trying to punch out the window openings resulted in a lot of cracked and shattered sheet plastic. It would probably work for making true corners after the bulk of the material within the opening has been removed.
I glued the shattered plastic (Walthers brick sheet) back together, and used stuff from the scrap box to build the office for Creechan Fine Fuels, a simple background structure. Window openings were cut using the method described.
Wayne
I see there is a Dr. in the house. Yes, that sounds like a good idea. I'll need to buy the saw blades, but I have everything else. I was concerned cutting the holes too big or not the right size. This will make it easy.
The use of a nibbler works well along with doctorwayne's suggestions. The wall mods are best done with the wall sections able to lie on the flat. You may not need to install the windows, before assembling the structure, but it really helps dry fitting all the frames before assy.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Ok here's my latest scratchbuild project and I have a question. What is the best way to cut out holes in "pikestuff" styrene so that I can insert my windows and doors? Plain old xacto knife?
This is the Current 'ICE" formerly Davenport & Rock Island Bettendorf Yard office. I am going to build a close replica to stand on my layout as the center piece of the yard.
And here is what I've completed so far....(walls are not glued yet, need to cut out window and door openings first). The shingle material is also great looking stuff.
Driline wrote:Gee, you'd think we were Australians with all this "mate" stuff. Tie me Kangaroo down.
alco's forever!!!!! Majoring in HO scale Minorig in O scale:)
Driline wrote: I went with the CNW & Santa Fe "Mauve" MEDIUM color and size from AZ Rock and Mineral Company. It actually looks great. I'm glad I went with the medium size. It does more closely resemble the real stone in size. The color is absolutely perfect.I bought the stuff in Des Moines at Hobby Haven. (3 hours away from me). Is 6 hours round trip crazy to drive for 10 bucks worth of ballast?
I went with the CNW & Santa Fe "Mauve" MEDIUM color and size from AZ Rock and Mineral Company. It actually looks great. I'm glad I went with the medium size. It does more closely resemble the real stone in size. The color is absolutely perfect.
I bought the stuff in Des Moines at Hobby Haven. (3 hours away from me).
Is 6 hours round trip crazy to drive for 10 bucks worth of ballast?
ROFL! That's what I thought, till I saw he was from Ohio!
sweet I am going to try that with mine too. Looks really good mate.
rs2mike wrote: Driline wrote: My first attempt ever at Ballasting. So far so good.... I intend to finally complete a layout. That's why I started with an 11X7 room with an added staging yard 7" X 8' after we moved 5 years ago. I'm 2 years into the build and so far have about 1/2 the scenery complete.drillline the ballast looks great. My question is on your weeds in the right trackage. Do you not have any worries about catching something like a coupler on these? Or do they not give you any problems.
Driline wrote: My first attempt ever at Ballasting. So far so good.... I intend to finally complete a layout. That's why I started with an 11X7 room with an added staging yard 7" X 8' after we moved 5 years ago. I'm 2 years into the build and so far have about 1/2 the scenery complete.
My first attempt ever at Ballasting.
So far so good.... I intend to finally complete a layout. That's why I started with an 11X7 room with an added staging yard 7" X 8' after we moved 5 years ago. I'm 2 years into the build and so far have about 1/2 the scenery complete.
No worries mate. The coupler just moves through those weeds with no problem.
secondhandmodeler wrote: Driline wrote: My first attempt ever at Ballasting. So far so good.... I intend to finally complete a layout. That's why I started with an 11X7 room with an added staging yard 7" X 8' after we moved 5 years ago. I'm 2 years into the build and so far have about 1/2 the scenery complete.What did you go with for ballast color and size? Part of my next layout is C&NW and requires the same color ballast I believe.
You should note however that the CNW Mauve ballast is located on the track my engine is sitting on. The side yard to the right is a "fine" ballast mix that includes "pink lady" as the main color.
Driline wrote:wm3798. I like the look of your layout. Is it a shelf layout and what are the dimensions?
Thank you.
Parts of it are on a shelf, and the main part is an L-girder rig about 3' x 12' with a 4x3 L. You can read all about it at my website (link below my sig)
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net
I'm modelling the mid-to late-'30s, so all of my bridges are fairly well maintained. However, rust will tend to occur and collect where water cannot easily drain away. I've found that painting the bridge with the rust colour first works well, paying particular attention to all the nooks and crannies and inside corners. When you paint the bridge colour over this, don't be so fastidious trying to get full coverage - this will leave those hard-to-get-at areas already rusted. You can then add more severe rust effects where you want them. Also, note in the prototype photo, above, that the rivets are not an area that rusts as readily as the metal through which they've been installed - this is because paint adheres so well to a convex surface like the head of a rivet. Of course, these too will rust over time.
When I first built the fly-over bridge in front of Andy's closet door, I put the west end of the run-around right there, figuring I'd only need it to switch a couple of cars to the two industries there. I quickly realized that the Penn Central turn would typically need more room, and also a longer siding would help facilitate thru trains while the local was switching, thereby opening up better traffic flow. So Friday night I soaked the ballast, and made with the putty knife.
Fortunately, the local Hobby Town now carries C-55 track (albeit at list price! :P) so I was able to also replace the turnout, which had been repaired after a track cleaning incident, and never quite worked properly... So now I have a siding that can easily stow a 10 car local. Also, westbound trains can now move up off the drawbridge across the aisle before holding for any eastbounds headed for staging.
I also finished up two decoder installations for Bobcat...Here they are at the fuel rack, fresh from the shops.We'll be pressing these into service next weekend before shipping them back to their home road... ;D
loathar wrote:Driline-Hob Lob doesn't carry it. (mine doesn't) Michaels and JoAnnes are supposed to.
Dang it. You're right. I was just there. No joy.
jktrains wrote: Driline, A few suggestions: Try the Sophisticated Finishes rust product. Its been discussed earlier, or PM me for more info. I think neutrine used it on the inside of his gondolas. He thinned a little to avoid having it be too thick. This will give you both the color and the texture. I used it on the front access door on the Soo loco. jktrains
Driline,
A few suggestions: Try the Sophisticated Finishes rust product. Its been discussed earlier, or PM me for more info. I think neutrine used it on the inside of his gondolas. He thinned a little to avoid having it be too thick. This will give you both the color and the texture. I used it on the front access door on the Soo loco. jktrains
JK, The bridge project was merely a ploy for you to divulge your "rust" secrets. I'm so clever I can't stand myself Then again neither can most other people.
Thanks...I will be looking for that stuff at Hobby Lobby. Do you also use acrylics as a base before you apply the "rust" mixture?
I agree with the others, the bridge something more than airbrushing and the rust color is too light. That color might be better suited for newly formed rust. You want the darker rust like in WM3798's picture.
A few suggestions: Try the Sophisticated Finishes rust product. Its been discussed earlier, or PM me for more info. I think neutrine used it on the inside of his gondolas. He thinned a little to avoid having it be too thick. This will give you both the color and the texture. I used it on the front access door on the Soo loco. The applications of the reactant you apply the darker it will get. I'd also try drybrushing the rivets on the gusset plates with like a burnt sienna color. This should get the rivets to 'pop' and not be lost is a flat black paint job. I've got a single track truss built to do the same thing to. Maybe I should get started on it and we can compare results? Also, you might consider repainting it flat black again so you're back to a clean slate.
jktrains