So the car should be closer to 6.25 Oz total weight than 9.75!
Steve
If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!
Attention RioGrande5761 and other critics
Whether NWP SWP ever completes one of his projects should not be fodder for your speculation or criticism. I don't see anyone cracking the whip over how much or how little progress you're making on your projects. If all that ever gets done is talk, what skin is that off your nose? Back off. Stop reading his threads if it bugs you so much. You may think you're encouraging him to get building, but that's not the effect you're having. Stop being such a wet blanket.
Unconstructive posts in this thread, and posts that reply to them, will shortly be deleted.
--Steven Otte, Model Railroader senior associate editorsotte@kalmbach.com
Steven Otte Attention RioGrande5761 and other critics Whether NWP SWP ever completes one of his projects should not be fodder for your speculation or criticism. I don't see anyone cracking the whip over how much or how little progress you're making on your projects. If all that ever gets done is talk, what skin is that off your nose? Back off. Stop reading his threads if it bugs you so much. You may think you're encouraging him to get building, but that's not the effect you're having. Stop being such a wet blanket.....
Whether NWP SWP ever completes one of his projects should not be fodder for your speculation or criticism. I don't see anyone cracking the whip over how much or how little progress you're making on your projects. If all that ever gets done is talk, what skin is that off your nose? Back off. Stop reading his threads if it bugs you so much. You may think you're encouraging him to get building, but that's not the effect you're having. Stop being such a wet blanket.....
As I see it, Steven likely wouldn't have accomplished anything without the prodding he's received. That he handled that prodding as well as he did surprised me, as did the job he accomplished with his first kitbash.The combination of helpful suggestions and comments of the naysayers, in my opinion, help to put Steven's feet back on the ground, channelling his over-enthusiasm into concrete results.
Steven Otte....Unconstructive posts in this thread, and posts that reply to them, will shortly be deleted.
When I first came to the MR Forums in 2004, I was absolutely appalled at the negative and demeaning comments directed towards Jeffrey, and it almost caused me to forego this site. Fortunately, another Member here directed me to what is now the Big Blue forums, where Jeffrey was also a Member and getting a much kinder reception.
While I agree that derogatory and overly negative remarks do need to be moderated (I moderate on Big Blue), I don't see any of what's been posted in this thread fitting into that category.
As for riogrande5761, his latest post seems pretty conciliatory to me:
riogrande5761 Gratz on your first kit bash. It looks pretty good and after painting will look even better.
Gratz on your first kit bash. It looks pretty good and after painting will look even better.
...and, credit to Steven...
NWP SWP .....I want to thank you all for the nonstop pushing, I probably wouldn't've gotten the project started, let's hope that I can start moving towards tackling some of the other ideas I've had! After I finish this one of course!
.....I want to thank you all for the nonstop pushing, I probably wouldn't've gotten the project started, let's hope that I can start moving towards tackling some of the other ideas I've had! After I finish this one of course!
From what I've seen my critics have been pretty quiet now that they see the progress I'm making.
I really think some of you guys were expecting another failure, but this time it wasn't, why? Because I have a paycheck coming in so I can finance these projects.
Mr. Otte, this time I'm good and hold no malice towards my critics, just a bit more acknowledgement from them would be nice.
Well I'll post some picture of the car running on the club layout.
NWP SWPI really think some of you guys were expecting another failure, but this time it wasn't, why? Because I have a paycheck coming in so I can finance these projects.
Actually, failure had nothing to do with it, Steven, because little had been done prior to that. Some of us expected this project would likely go the way of your previous projects - i.e. words but no action. Now you've taken action and done a respectable job at it.
And you don't have to have a lot of money to accomplish a kitbash...but it does help.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
OK moving on, I weighed the car earlier, I followed NMRA standards BUT on difference if the car weighs a fraction of an ounce the weight is rounded up to the nearest half ounce, I might change this further to round up to the nearest whole ounce.
Edit.
I just updated the car weight to 7 ounces.
Also for the time being I packed the weight (copper BBs) in ceran-wrap and then wrapped it with a little scotch tape to simplify the transport of car and weight, the weight I'll place dead center in the car.
doctorwayne Steven Otte ....Unconstructive posts in this thread, and posts that reply to them, will shortly be deleted. While I agree that derogatory and overly negative remarks do need to be moderated (I moderate on Big Blue), I don't see any of what's been posted in this thread fitting into that category.
Steven Otte ....Unconstructive posts in this thread, and posts that reply to them, will shortly be deleted.
The discouraging posts I was referring to were deleted.
OK I really weighted the car with pennies taped together and placed equally at each end of the car, I'll be testing with the pennies and BBs (separately of course) to test performance.
Sheet lead is the best looking alternative for an open top car, but it is difficult to find and can be a hazardous material if not handled properly. Sheet metal is close second, but steel or brass is more challenging to cut. Another alternative is to figure out how many pennies, bb's or shot is required and figure out how much of the floor will be covered by a single layout of the material. Then put square plastic strip a bit bigger than the thickness of the weight around that area of the floor, glue in a single layer of the weight and cover it with a layer of .010 plastic that sits on top of the plastic strip. When painted the sheet plastic can blend into the floor, especially if the car is black. For BB's or shot, I like white glue or CA, for pennies, I usually use latex caulk.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
dehusmanSheet lead is the best looking alternative for an open top car, but it is difficult to find
.
Sheet lead is readily available on eBay at very reasonable prices. I buy mine in 1/32" thickness. It cuts easily in a paper cutter to HO car width and is easy to work with.
Do handle it carefully, and do not leave it exposed.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
OK so heres the downlow on the car, the couplers are uphigh.
What I meat if because the buckeyes needed the bolster relocated and higher the couplers are half again too high, so I have to develop a plan to lower them, the bolster could in theory be lowered but I'm worried about the trucks not clearing. I even swapped the 36" wheels for 33" but that 1 looks funny and 2 they aren't correct for the car 3 the trucks won't clear as well.
I'll work on them some more to see if I can get it right.
Edit. Also when I build the next car I might consider correcting the stall spacing on the second stall. At each end.
NWP SWP It a long story of why both pumps are broken and you probably won't believe me.
I worked in a hotel. I'd believe **** near anything.
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!
NWP SWP
Well done!
NWP SWPOK so heres the downlow on the car, the couplers are uphigh
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
I think the car looks great! Can you post a picture of the bolster modification?
Chuck - Modeling in HO scale and anything narrow gauge
Steven Otte doctorwayne Steven Otte ....Unconstructive posts in this thread, and posts that reply to them, will shortly be deleted. While I agree that derogatory and overly negative remarks do need to be moderated (I moderate on Big Blue), I don't see any of what's been posted in this thread fitting into that category. The discouraging posts I was referring to were deleted.
doctorwayne
I'll post a picture in a while, it might not be till this evening, I have a lot of stuff to do today.
I wants some of those now. Keep up the good work!
I'm beginning to realize that Windows 10 and sound decoders have a lot in common. There are so many things you have to change in order to get them to work the way you want.
BNSF/UP, I'll PM you some specifics of what I did if you're interested.
I'm going to also be writing up an article for MR on the next car build.
I just emailed MRs article submission email about writing an article and I am now awaiting a response.
Wayne, well said and thank you for the defense. This is Mr. Otte's forum of course, but looking at the big picture, I don't see things as dire as I was called out for, rather I see positive good things as evidenced by this latest topic. And where before, there was a lot of pushing needed, now we are seeing the fruits and young Steven is to be applauded and encourage here.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
As my oldest brother says, "Do something, even if it's wrong."Teaching myself to weather, I did a LOT of horrible weathering jobs. That's why I bought a bunch of 99 cent junk cars at flea markets to practice on."Hey, Cabbie, how do I get to Carnegie Hall?""Practice, practice, practice!"Also -- your craftsmanship is quite good. The car is straight and level, and there is no obvious external seam where you made the join. Nicely done.
OK I did not get a chance to photograph the bolster, I made a boo boo, one of the guys at the club suggested filing down the bolsters a little, well I barely filed any off and the trucks now sit at an angle because they're catching on the underframe, now I tinkered some more and I think I fixed it, if not I will put a washer to make up the difference, and I ordered long shank couplers, I might have to just cut the draft gear boxes off the extra lengths of underframe I have and glue them on top of (under) the existing boxes to get the coupler height corrected.
Also the underframe is going to be slightly beefed up via the addition of fishbelly runners. Overall I'm pretty satisfied with the overall result.
Two things I need to do, study some of the GACX (ex-KCS) cars to see some of the end details and I need to order something to cut the styrene sheet better like a paper slicer or something (insert your suggestions here)
I am considering leaving this car unpainted being it's my first car, I will be building another and documenting the construction in detail in both photos and text for my article.
Sometimes one makes a "proof of concept" car, as a test.
And then makes the real one. And the next......
Ed
True.
Don't worry about it Steven. I want so many different cars and I meant they look so good that I would want them. I have so many other projects I need to finish though...
7j43k Sometimes one makes a "proof of concept" car, as a test. And then makes the real one. And the next......
Ed,
Exactly. I did that with a NYC emergency war caboose that I kitbashed from a MDC 40' wood boxcar and Walthers wood caboose. It turned out decent but I'd like to make another that's better and more accurate.
Right now I'm working on detailing a Kato NW2 switcher with photo-etched parts. I purchased a used Kato NW2 shell off eBay to experiment with first. After I've completed the mock-up and I'm happy with the results, I'll detail the undecorated shell that I'll eventually paint for the NYC.
Okay I'm getting ready to call NWP-SWP shops car #001 complete and begin the next one.
Only thing I'd like to change is use a 76 foot (or two shorter ones spliced) as the chassis and mount the gondola bodies atop that.
This change is because I just don't find the first cars underframe beefy enough for the length of the car.
What I probably will do is take two flat car kits (probably around 62 ft or so) sand down the deck, cut the cars, then glue the spliced gondola body on top of them and thereby splicing them.
Now I hope the flat cars I use are a little narrower than the gondola so the little side supports can be extended (via styrene strip) down the side of the of the flat car which I'll have to sand down as well.
Your car, you can try it, but I think it will look better if you just add some strips of styrene to the underside to create the fishbelly and then extend the side stakes.
I think the approach you are heading toward will look like you glued a hopper shell on a flat car.
The alternative is to cut the floor of the hopper out, trim the sides, but not the side stakes and replace the bottom couple feet of the hopper sides with the fishbelly off the flat car, keep in the flatcar truck bolsters and coupler mounts.
Those MDC/Roundhouse gons had alignment issues with the underframes and the side stakes When I repainted a few last year as scrap service gons, I built new underframes. From their thickness and how the crossmembers align with the side stakes, it makes more sense to fabricate them instead of trying to modify a flat.