Zona saw and miter box came in along with the scale ruler I ordered, still waiting on the styrene sheet.
Steve
If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!
We are bracing ourselves!
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Should I attempt to get the spacing right on the braces?
At each end of the MDC cars the second stall at each end is wider than the rest.
After much anticipation, procrastination, and concentration, I present the first ever groundbreaking, earthshaking featured presentation, my first KITBASH!
YAAAAAAAAAAAY! And there was much rejoicing! Are you done with it yet?
I'm beginning to realize that Windows 10 and sound decoders have a lot in common. There are so many things you have to change in order to get them to work the way you want.
I have some more work to do with it, strengthening the underframe, 6 axle trucks, cover (I know the prototype didn't have any but I'm putting one on it for now) and some details.
Now my biggest mistake was accidentally cutting the B ends off both cars so I have two brake wheels!
But I'm going to make another "better" one to make molds from to make resin versions to make a unit train of the things.
Looks pretty long. Will you be able to operate it on your club layout?
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Yes, the car currently (minus couplers) measures 76 scale feet, I couldve cut it shorter to 73 sf but I thought longer looked better.
Steven,
I'm very proud of you.
HOORAY!
Ed
Thanks Ed, I want to thank you all for the nonstop pushing, I probably wouldn't've gotten the project started, let's hope that I can start moving towards tackling some of the other ideas I've had! After I finish this one of course!
NWP SWPNow my biggest mistake was accidentally cutting the B ends off both cars so I have two brake wheels
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
NWP SWPNow my biggest mistake was accidentally cutting the B ends off both cars so I have two brake wheels!
.
Yeah, I still do dumb things like that.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Heres some better pictures.
http://imgur.com/a/YYHZQDm
Yep, that looks like a kitbash. Congrats on getting it off the drawing table, Steven. We all make mistakes. And sometimes learning how to correct those mistakes is all part of the "fun" of the learning process.
Congratulation's on your first kit-bash !
Mistake's ??? Sure, but they make for a "One of a kind" car that 30 year's from now you will be proud to display on the mantle.
( who know's .... 30 year's from now a "collector" may pay big money for it. Stranger thing's have happened...)
Rust...... It's a good thing !
NWP SWP Heres some better pictures. http://imgur.com/a/YYHZQDm
Nicely done
Gary
Next test: Try running the car in a train, does it work?
Things to watch, how do the couplers line up on a curve? How do they mate with engines or cars of other lengths?
Next thing to consider is how you are going to mount the 3 axle trucks. You have to pay attention to where the kingpin (mounting pin)is relative to the axles and truck center. For example if the kingpin is centered on the truck, its possible that the trucks will stick out beyond the ends of the cars and look funky, or worse will conflict with the coupler and draft gear. If the kingpin is closer to one end of the truck that may work better. If the kingpin is centered and that's your on;y option you may have to consider changing the kit bash the move the bolster further from the end.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Here's the trucks I'm using.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F162884028759
They have a slightly off set bolster.
Gratz on your first kit bash. It looks pretty good and after painting will look even better.
Right now I'm tearing the car apart, I'm replacing the plates with full length plates, also I had to relocate the bolsters to accommodate the 3 axle trucks.
dehusman Next test: Try running the car in a train, does it work?
Yeah, don't spend a lot more time detailing it until you know it will work reliably. In particular, get the 6 wheel trucks mounted and coupler height correct, etc.
I'm working on a set of 4 TTEX flats. Those are the ones where two old cars are drawbarred together to make a super flat, and a trailer bridges the two cars. Athearn made one version:
Anyway, I've got mine far enough along that I'm going to bring them to a get-together on Labor Day for a nice test run.
Then I'll fix what needs fixing, finish the detailing, and paint.
Getting the new trucks mounted properly and getting the coupler height to perfection is, as someone in a commercial once said, Job One. For you. Mine are looking real good, right now.
To get the coupler height correct I'm probably just going to get offset shank kds because in order to get the truck clearance I can't shave down the bolster.
Some of the changes I've made are, the 3 axle trucks, couplers, new bottom plate inside the car, one other change I'm going to make is the side plates at the joint will be re-replaced with some cardstock thickness styrene in an effort to make the plates invisible.
The six-wheel trucks look good on the car.
Yup, coming along nicely.
And those are shorter than what the prototype had! They're 8 footers the proto had 11 footers!
I forgot to mention the big mistake I made!
I accidentally spilt half of my testors styrene cement, so now I need a new scale ruler! Being that the glue "ate" mine.
NWP SWP And those are shorter than what the prototype had! They're 8 footers the proto had 11 footers! I forgot to mention the big mistake I made! I accidentally spilt half of my testors styrene cement, so now I need a new scale ruler! Being that the glue "ate" mine.
Your scale rule is plastic? Hmmm...the one I have is stainless steel...General Model Railroad Reference Rule #1251:
https://www.generaltools.com/industrial-precision-12-in-flexible-steel-rule-with-model-railroad-graduations
I'll order one of those and another plastic one, the plastic one was good because it's thin and flexible so I could get it into the interior of the cat to make measurements, also it was semi translucent which helped with figuring out where to cut the cars.
NWP SWP I'll order one of those and another plastic one, the plastic one was good because it's thin and flexible so I could get it into the interior of the cat to make measurements, also it was semi translucent which helped with figuring out where to cut the cars.
Micro-Mark has something similar:
https://www.micromark.com/Model-Rr-Rule
Tomorrow is the club meeting I'll put the car in a freight to see the tracking ability. To weight the cars do I add 6.25 Oz to the car starting weight (NMRA standard is 1 ounce + .5 Oz per inch of car length)(the car is 10.5 inches long, that's 5.25 Oz plus the ounce starting so 6.25) the car on its own weighs in at 3.5 Oz and after a load or cover is added and the underframe is reinforced (via fishbelly runners) the car will probably weigh in the ballpark of 4 to 5 ounces, so do I weight 6.25 Oz on top of that, so the car as it is now would tip the scales at 9.75 Oz or do I just add the difference? So 6.25 Oz is max combined weight of car and auxiliary weighting?
NWP SWP So 6.25 Oz is max combined weight of car and auxiliary weighting?
Yes, and if you haven't already worked it out, I'd suggest you place the weight equally over the trucks.
The NMRA standard is recommended, I tend to weigh my cars slightly heavier but then doctorwayne uses “live “loads in his cars which really increase the weight.
With your goal of having a reliable running car, don’t be afraid to add weight, if it helps.
Cheers, the Bear.