MR Express - Biggest challenges in tracklaying

[Anonymous]

In the July 24th MR Express, Terry Thompson asked what your biggest challenges in tracklaying are and how you overcome them. Please share your thoughts below, or read MR Express http://www.trains.com/Content/Dynamic/Articles/000/000/004/438nafcr.asp

[valleyfan628]

One challange I had a couple of years ago was keeping rail gaps open. I never bothered with the insulated rail joiners either because I had tried several and I found them worthless for code 83 rail. Many times you don't want one at the joint anyway. I don't recall where I read about the solution I now use but it works flawlessly:

1) Cut your gap with your Dremel tool or track saw.

2) Take a piece of styrene close to the thickness of the gap and cut a strip approximately the width of the rail and at least long enough to reach from the top of the rail to the bottom of the gap.

3) Insert the styrene in the gap and coat with a medium or thick CA adhesive and allow to dry.

4) Trim and file the hardened CA / styrene ensuring the flangeway is clear.

This will result in an insulated joint that should never close or come separated. If you paint your rail like I do, you never even know there is a gap there.


I also have been a track nailer / spiker until I decided to try the caulk adhesive method after I read about it in MR. I've since laid about 80 feet using this method and so far, it's great.

[valleyfan628]

One challange I had a couple of years ago was keeping rail gaps open. I never bothered with the insulated rail joiners either because I had tried several and I found them worthless for code 83 rail. Many times you don't want one at the joint anyway. I don't recall where I read about the solution I now use but it works flawlessly:

1) Cut your gap with your Dremel tool or track saw.

2) Take a piece of styrene close to the thickness of the gap and cut a strip approximately the width of the rail and at least long enough to reach from the top of the rail to the bottom of the gap.

3) Insert the styrene in the gap and coat with a medium or thick CA adhesive and allow to dry.

4) Trim and file the hardened CA / styrene ensuring the flangeway is clear.

This will result in an insulated joint that should never close or come separated. If you paint your rail like I do, you never even know there is a gap there.


I also have been a track nailer / spiker until I decided to try the caulk adhesive method after I read about it in MR. I've since laid about 80 feet using this method and so far, it's great.

[ssgauge]

I handlay my own track and use "hot frogs" in my switches...I like the smooth operation through the frog, especially with solder-based flangeways. I also like to have a prototypical gap between the open point rail and the stock rail, but that of course can lead to electrical shorts when the back of the locomotive driver comes close to or even lightly touches the open point rail. The solution was to paint the back (inside of the locomotive drivers and tender wheels. I used dark brown Floquil water-based paint and it effectively insulates the inside face of the driver and eliminates the shorts.

[ssgauge]

I handlay my own track and use "hot frogs" in my switches...I like the smooth operation through the frog, especially with solder-based flangeways. I also like to have a prototypical gap between the open point rail and the stock rail, but that of course can lead to electrical shorts when the back of the locomotive driver comes close to or even lightly touches the open point rail. The solution was to paint the back (inside of the locomotive drivers and tender wheels. I used dark brown Floquil water-based paint and it effectively insulates the inside face of the driver and eliminates the shorts.

[Anonymous]

Well, laying track has never been too difficult for me, although it HAS been several years.

I was laying Atlas flextrack and switches.

The worst party was trying to paint the rails later with a brush... I was kind of sloppy. Next time - airbrush.

I've tried handlaying track. Regular track wasn't too much of a problem - turnouts have defeated me.

I tried building in place - actually finished one - but it didn't work well enough to keep. I tried building one at the bench - per Tony Koester's article - I didn't finish it.

I would love to handlay all my track - turnouts (and crossings) are what scare me away. On my next railroad (hopefully to be started later this year) I will be using Micro-Engineering or Walthers Flextrack, and Walthers/Shinohara turnouts. I may go back - one turnout at a time, and replace them with hand-built.

So... Biggest challenge is handlaying turnouts - I will overcome it by buying pre-made :D

Rob

[Anonymous]

Well, laying track has never been too difficult for me, although it HAS been several years.

I was laying Atlas flextrack and switches.

The worst party was trying to paint the rails later with a brush... I was kind of sloppy. Next time - airbrush.

I've tried handlaying track. Regular track wasn't too much of a problem - turnouts have defeated me.

I tried building in place - actually finished one - but it didn't work well enough to keep. I tried building one at the bench - per Tony Koester's article - I didn't finish it.

I would love to handlay all my track - turnouts (and crossings) are what scare me away. On my next railroad (hopefully to be started later this year) I will be using Micro-Engineering or Walthers Flextrack, and Walthers/Shinohara turnouts. I may go back - one turnout at a time, and replace them with hand-built.

So... Biggest challenge is handlaying turnouts - I will overcome it by buying pre-made :D

Rob

[dknelson]

The biggest challenge in tracklaying is getting off my *#^%&%( butt and get to work.

The second biggest challenge is to realize that track plans lie -- especially the ones you create. In fact they lie the worst of all.

Dave Nelson

[dknelson]

The biggest challenge in tracklaying is getting off my *#^%&%( butt and get to work.

The second biggest challenge is to realize that track plans lie -- especially the ones you create. In fact they lie the worst of all.

Dave Nelson

[mikemc]

I had been using adhesive caulk to attach Homasote and Homa-Bed to my subroadbed. I recall reading this tip in MR many years ago. But I never thought about using it for track. I didn't think it would hold too well for curved flex track but it does!

I use Atlas code 83 flex and Walthers code 83 turnouts. The ties on the Atlas track are thicker than the Walthers, so I cut square pieces of styrene and glue them to the turnout ties. I then apply the adhesive to these small styrene pieces and situate the turnout, instead of covering the whole area.

A challenge I have had was the stock rails on the Walthers turnouts coming out of their spikes. This has caused guage problems and derailment issues. Not on every turnout, just a few, But it is hard to fix, I am still working on a curved #7 turnout that causes shorts and derailments because of this. I'd rather not replace it at $25 for the turnout.

Mike Mc.

[mikemc]

I had been using adhesive caulk to attach Homasote and Homa-Bed to my subroadbed. I recall reading this tip in MR many years ago. But I never thought about using it for track. I didn't think it would hold too well for curved flex track but it does!

I use Atlas code 83 flex and Walthers code 83 turnouts. The ties on the Atlas track are thicker than the Walthers, so I cut square pieces of styrene and glue them to the turnout ties. I then apply the adhesive to these small styrene pieces and situate the turnout, instead of covering the whole area.

A challenge I have had was the stock rails on the Walthers turnouts coming out of their spikes. This has caused guage problems and derailment issues. Not on every turnout, just a few, But it is hard to fix, I am still working on a curved #7 turnout that causes shorts and derailments because of this. I'd rather not replace it at $25 for the turnout.

Mike Mc.

[Anonymous]

I have trouble with the switch operating mechanisms. I work in N-scale, and I had planned to use a mechanical manual throw for all my switches (motors are just more things that can break down over time), but the product I tried was based on a bent piano wire spring to hold the points in place. The problem is that the piano wire, which is intended to poke through the tie rod for its connection, is too wide; it is as wide as my N-scale tie rod. So that means that I have to find another way to connect it, and CA glue did not hold up over time (I'm back to pushing them loose with my finger). Soldering is a bad idea because 1. I cannot solder (I know this, I accept it) and 2. The points are already soldered to the tie rod and will loosen & shift. Aaargh! There has to be a way.

[Anonymous]

I have trouble with the switch operating mechanisms. I work in N-scale, and I had planned to use a mechanical manual throw for all my switches (motors are just more things that can break down over time), but the product I tried was based on a bent piano wire spring to hold the points in place. The problem is that the piano wire, which is intended to poke through the tie rod for its connection, is too wide; it is as wide as my N-scale tie rod. So that means that I have to find another way to connect it, and CA glue did not hold up over time (I'm back to pushing them loose with my finger). Soldering is a bad idea because 1. I cannot solder (I know this, I accept it) and 2. The points are already soldered to the tie rod and will loosen & shift. Aaargh! There has to be a way.

[Anonymous]

The biggest challenge for me is to get the technical aspect of how tracks and yards in general should work, then move the theoretical to the practical. I have made at least a hundred track plans in my mind for the space I have available, and what I am laying now only mildly resembles what went on in my brain. So I think the greatest difficulty is getting the experience so that a reasonable track plan can be had that reflects my givens and druthers.

Curves eat more than I realized. Trying to be true to a minimum mainline curve can be tricky and demanding.

So I guess for me the most demanding aspect of track laying is getting the experience.

[Anonymous]

The biggest challenge for me is to get the technical aspect of how tracks and yards in general should work, then move the theoretical to the practical. I have made at least a hundred track plans in my mind for the space I have available, and what I am laying now only mildly resembles what went on in my brain. So I think the greatest difficulty is getting the experience so that a reasonable track plan can be had that reflects my givens and druthers.

Curves eat more than I realized. Trying to be true to a minimum mainline curve can be tricky and demanding.

So I guess for me the most demanding aspect of track laying is getting the experience.

[Anonymous]

My biggest challenge is getting the N scale Peco manual turnout linkage to work the undertable microswitches. With too many switches the turnout throwbar spring can no longer hold against the microswitch pressure. Have tried different methods with varying degrees of success.

[Anonymous]

My biggest challenge is getting the N scale Peco manual turnout linkage to work the undertable microswitches. With too many switches the turnout throwbar spring can no longer hold against the microswitch pressure. Have tried different methods with varying degrees of success.

[Anonymous]

Getting smooth, kink-free joints on curves when using Peco Code 55. Those rails don't slide though the ties very easily, so all the good advice about staggering the joints is useless.

[Anonymous]

Getting smooth, kink-free joints on curves when using Peco Code 55. Those rails don't slide though the ties very easily, so all the good advice about staggering the joints is useless.

[Anonymous]

i find that keeping the rails together is very difficult

[Anonymous]

i find that keeping the rails together is very difficult

[Anonymous]

Wow! After reading the other replies, I feel somewhat daunted. I've never considered handlaying my own track, mainly because I don't feel I have the patience for it. However, that may be a lame excuse. I find the hardest thing for me is to actually make the plans. Once I get them down on graph paper, I can do much better. The only decisions then are which turnouts to use, #4, #5, or #6 for the yards. I've downloaded the pages from the NMRA standards for the turnouts, so I have a guide. Now it's just a matter of transferring my ideas to paper and then to the actual layout.

[Anonymous]

Wow! After reading the other replies, I feel somewhat daunted. I've never considered handlaying my own track, mainly because I don't feel I have the patience for it. However, that may be a lame excuse. I find the hardest thing for me is to actually make the plans. Once I get them down on graph paper, I can do much better. The only decisions then are which turnouts to use, #4, #5, or #6 for the yards. I've downloaded the pages from the NMRA standards for the turnouts, so I have a guide. Now it's just a matter of transferring my ideas to paper and then to the actual layout.

[Anonymous]

The biggest challenge for me in tracklaying is just getting the track down smoothly. I work in N, and any little bump can wreck havoc on those tiny little wheels.

John

[Anonymous]

The biggest challenge for me in tracklaying is just getting the track down smoothly. I work in N, and any little bump can wreck havoc on those tiny little wheels.

John

[IRONROOSTER]

Probably, doing spiral easements. I wrote a basic program to produce a table of measurements and then made a template from poster board. Worked really well.
enjoy
Paul

[IRONROOSTER]

Probably, doing spiral easements. I wrote a basic program to produce a table of measurements and then made a template from poster board. Worked really well.
enjoy
Paul

[Anonymous]

I'm with Avondale gy and Glen on this one.Getting N scale undermount turnout switches to work well and work everytime with enough constant pressure.
I wonder if Delaires setup is better than the rest?Other than that i lay track with diluted yellow glue and that works well for me.Also,I agree with Rick, Trackplans lie,not perhaps a baldfaced lie, just a little white one that turns into red heat coming out your ears!! [:D]

[Anonymous]

I'm with Avondale gy and Glen on this one.Getting N scale undermount turnout switches to work well and work everytime with enough constant pressure.
I wonder if Delaires setup is better than the rest?Other than that i lay track with diluted yellow glue and that works well for me.Also,I agree with Rick, Trackplans lie,not perhaps a baldfaced lie, just a little white one that turns into red heat coming out your ears!! [:D]

[Anonymous]

finding a satisfying track plan that i can fit in a 65 sq ft "L" shape in N scale..it took me months of work on atlas's ritetrack program...so far my plan is fitting....but its far from done....plenty of room for murphy to show up yet..im hoping that taking my time and test fitting with track pieces will avoid most of the aggravation ...plus i just look silly with red ears....scott

[Anonymous]

finding a satisfying track plan that i can fit in a 65 sq ft "L" shape in N scale..it took me months of work on atlas's ritetrack program...so far my plan is fitting....but its far from done....plenty of room for murphy to show up yet..im hoping that taking my time and test fitting with track pieces will avoid most of the aggravation ...plus i just look silly with red ears....scott

[cp1057]

Tracklaying, eh? I'm having some trouble fitting turnouts into the trackplan. I lost about 18 inches of my staging tracks because I miscalculated the distance required for the tracks coming out of my turnout to diverge to the necessary spacing. It doesn't help that this is all happening on a curve.

I tried the idea from the August MR using adhesive caulk to lay flextrack. Works great!

I'm having some trouble with a turnout and switch machine, I've posted a description elsewhere in the forum.

Charles
Hillsburgh On

[cp1057]

Tracklaying, eh? I'm having some trouble fitting turnouts into the trackplan. I lost about 18 inches of my staging tracks because I miscalculated the distance required for the tracks coming out of my turnout to diverge to the necessary spacing. It doesn't help that this is all happening on a curve.

I tried the idea from the August MR using adhesive caulk to lay flextrack. Works great!

I'm having some trouble with a turnout and switch machine, I've posted a description elsewhere in the forum.

Charles
Hillsburgh On

[tomwatkins]

Getting powered switch machines adjusted so that they work reliably. Which of course means to throw completely every time. I decided to go with twin-pole machines instead of switch motors because of cost. Bad Decision. I'm currently converting as many turnouts as possible to manual operation.

[tomwatkins]

Getting powered switch machines adjusted so that they work reliably. Which of course means to throw completely every time. I decided to go with twin-pole machines instead of switch motors because of cost. Bad Decision. I'm currently converting as many turnouts as possible to manual operation.

[Anonymous]

As a newbie and still in progress of building my first multi-level layout, every step has its challenges! First and foremost the challenge is trying to build a castle on a mobile home budget.

1. The planning software... It took several days to figure out all the, now simple, things that Atlas' RightTrack software can do. I use Atlas RT because of its name - FREEware.

2. Cutting the subroadbed (plywood) to meet the plan specifications... In the layout planning stage I built-in transistions for all curves and track switches. I.e. The first and last piece of track to a 22R curve is one 24R piece of track. Planning with RT was easy compared to cutting the subroadbed to match. Radius centers are at different points.

3. Laying the cork roadbed was easier than I expected. Using Liquid Nails to glue the cork down made it pretty simple. Until I got to the first switch! Cutting the cork to interconnect two directions and fit smoothly without gaps for the #6 track switch was a challenge in itself. I laid one of the two dogbone return loops first.

4. I decieded to use Atlas code 83 super-flex track and will start laying and testing track, one block at a time, on the newly laid roadbed this next week. I was going to nail the track until I read mikemc's reply above - to use the liquid nails and glue it down. This sounds like a better solution.

With all said, my "Biggest challenges in tracklaying" are still ahead!

My layout - for those interested... I am building a freelance 5' x 12' 4-level HO scale railroad. It has two mainlines which I call the freight line and passenger line. The inner track (freight) is based on 18R and 20R curves and the outer track is 22R and 24R curves. It has 4 sidings, 4 spurs, a small yard and 2 double slips to go from inner to outer tracks. I am building it in my garage. The framework consists of 2 4' x 4' x 40"h. "storage cabinets". One for storing camping gear and the other for holiday decorations (this helped convince my better half that the RR would not take up useless space). In the 4' space between cabinets I've put drawer slides so that the control panel slides out when in use and tucks away when not in use. With a mobile home budget I am building it with DC blocks vice DCC using 2 MRC controls. My freight engines are Santa Fe and Union Pacific and the passenger engine is Southern Pacific.

If anyone has any constructive suggestions for a newbie please e-mail me. [e-mail]

[Anonymous]

As a newbie and still in progress of building my first multi-level layout, every step has its challenges! First and foremost the challenge is trying to build a castle on a mobile home budget.

1. The planning software... It took several days to figure out all the, now simple, things that Atlas' RightTrack software can do. I use Atlas RT because of its name - FREEware.

2. Cutting the subroadbed (plywood) to meet the plan specifications... In the layout planning stage I built-in transistions for all curves and track switches. I.e. The first and last piece of track to a 22R curve is one 24R piece of track. Planning with RT was easy compared to cutting the subroadbed to match. Radius centers are at different points.

3. Laying the cork roadbed was easier than I expected. Using Liquid Nails to glue the cork down made it pretty simple. Until I got to the first switch! Cutting the cork to interconnect two directions and fit smoothly without gaps for the #6 track switch was a challenge in itself. I laid one of the two dogbone return loops first.

4. I decieded to use Atlas code 83 super-flex track and will start laying and testing track, one block at a time, on the newly laid roadbed this next week. I was going to nail the track until I read mikemc's reply above - to use the liquid nails and glue it down. This sounds like a better solution.

With all said, my "Biggest challenges in tracklaying" are still ahead!

My layout - for those interested... I am building a freelance 5' x 12' 4-level HO scale railroad. It has two mainlines which I call the freight line and passenger line. The inner track (freight) is based on 18R and 20R curves and the outer track is 22R and 24R curves. It has 4 sidings, 4 spurs, a small yard and 2 double slips to go from inner to outer tracks. I am building it in my garage. The framework consists of 2 4' x 4' x 40"h. "storage cabinets". One for storing camping gear and the other for holiday decorations (this helped convince my better half that the RR would not take up useless space). In the 4' space between cabinets I've put drawer slides so that the control panel slides out when in use and tucks away when not in use. With a mobile home budget I am building it with DC blocks vice DCC using 2 MRC controls. My freight engines are Santa Fe and Union Pacific and the passenger engine is Southern Pacific.

If anyone has any constructive suggestions for a newbie please e-mail me. [e-mail]

[Anonymous]

I am just startin a large lay out that will have i hope 9 large sweeping curves but i am afraid of trying to use some type of a cad system for design so i will have to lay them by trail and error i guess. it will be code 100 as iam not going to all the expense of switching to code 83 i agree it would look beter one thing in my favor is they tell me i have the pacience of jobbe what ever that means. Question can you lay and s curve in ho i have head it will deraill more cars then the beauty of it for train pictures.

[Anonymous]

I am just startin a large lay out that will have i hope 9 large sweeping curves but i am afraid of trying to use some type of a cad system for design so i will have to lay them by trail and error i guess. it will be code 100 as iam not going to all the expense of switching to code 83 i agree it would look beter one thing in my favor is they tell me i have the pacience of jobbe what ever that means. Question can you lay and s curve in ho i have head it will deraill more cars then the beauty of it for train pictures.

[vsmith]

1. Using drywall screws to secure track to the benchwork.

2. Using a hacksaw and a file to cut rails to lenth.

3. Using railclamps to bolt the track sections together.

4. Wiring the whole shi-bang together with all Atlas control components.

5. Cutting roadbed from 3/16" cork sheets and glueing it down.

I should mention I am doing 1/2" scale indoors. So just think HO blown up 3X.

[vsmith]

1. Using drywall screws to secure track to the benchwork.

2. Using a hacksaw and a file to cut rails to lenth.

3. Using railclamps to bolt the track sections together.

4. Wiring the whole shi-bang together with all Atlas control components.

5. Cutting roadbed from 3/16" cork sheets and glueing it down.

I should mention I am doing 1/2" scale indoors. So just think HO blown up 3X.

[Anonymous]

Ballasting

Or, more specifically, working out how to stop the ballast from falling off when I move the boards (my layout's designed to be portable for exhibitions). I know about using PVA wood glue mixed with water and washing up liquid (not sure if you use the same name in the US, this is the stuff you use for washing dishes). The problem is getting the right quantities of all three ingredients! Still, at least it's easy to remove from the rails - a track cleaning block takes it off very easily.

[Anonymous]

Ballasting

Or, more specifically, working out how to stop the ballast from falling off when I move the boards (my layout's designed to be portable for exhibitions). I know about using PVA wood glue mixed with water and washing up liquid (not sure if you use the same name in the US, this is the stuff you use for washing dishes). The problem is getting the right quantities of all three ingredients! Still, at least it's easy to remove from the rails - a track cleaning block takes it off very easily.

[Anonymous]

i live in wayne county ohio and i am looking for someone to help me build my HO RR e mail at rpower @zoominternet.net thanks ***

[Anonymous]

i live in wayne county ohio and i am looking for someone to help me build my HO RR e mail at rpower @zoominternet.net thanks ***

[Anonymous]

Keeping the straight sections straight after they have been spiked down and before ballasting. It seems that in the summer they want to shift.

[Anonymous]

Keeping the straight sections straight after they have been spiked down and before ballasting. It seems that in the summer they want to shift.

[CP5415]

Finding time to actually work on my layout for more than 5 minutes at a time.

Gordon

[CP5415]

Finding time to actually work on my layout for more than 5 minutes at a time.

Gordon

[ClinchValleySD40]

Motivation. One of the jobs in the hobby I don't like to do is laying track.

[ClinchValleySD40]

Motivation. One of the jobs in the hobby I don't like to do is laying track.

[Anonymous]

Laying the guard rails. I use Micro Engineering code 83 rail and their #6 turnout kits and I have the most trouble with getting the guard rails set properly to do their job and still not interfere with the drivers on my steamers. I use the NMRA gauge to check wheel spacing and the flange gauge for turnouts, however I still seem to have a problem?

[Anonymous]

Laying the guard rails. I use Micro Engineering code 83 rail and their #6 turnout kits and I have the most trouble with getting the guard rails set properly to do their job and still not interfere with the drivers on my steamers. I use the NMRA gauge to check wheel spacing and the flange gauge for turnouts, however I still seem to have a problem?

[BRAKIE]

Actually I don't have any problems laying track..Some times I do find it hard to locate a place for a ground throws in my yard ladder,so I usually add a very short section of track to over come that problem

[BRAKIE]

Actually I don't have any problems laying track..Some times I do find it hard to locate a place for a ground throws in my yard ladder,so I usually add a very short section of track to over come that problem

[Anonymous]

I started using the Central Valley HO tie strips when they were first released about 15 years ago. It is the most realistic track system I have seen. I glue several tie strips together to form a long (about 8 feet) stretch of track. I use cork roadbed which I then spray using Rustoleum Fleckstone paint. This paint does a great job simulating ballast. I really load the paint on the cork and while it is wet I carefully unroll the tie strips onto the "ballast" paint. I press it down so the ties are buried. That's it! No glue or nails. When the paint dries, the tie strip has permanently adhered itself to the roadbed. You then add your favorite rail in either code 70 or 83. I use Barge cement to glue the rails on the tie plates. It is a rubber based glue used in the shoe repair business. Once it cures. it is pretty permanent. I have laid hundreds of feet of track using these tie strips without one problem. Central Valley just released several sizes of turnout kits that match up with these tie strips. Their turnout kits are about as close as you can get to the prototype.

Dale

[Anonymous]

I started using the Central Valley HO tie strips when they were first released about 15 years ago. It is the most realistic track system I have seen. I glue several tie strips together to form a long (about 8 feet) stretch of track. I use cork roadbed which I then spray using Rustoleum Fleckstone paint. This paint does a great job simulating ballast. I really load the paint on the cork and while it is wet I carefully unroll the tie strips onto the "ballast" paint. I press it down so the ties are buried. That's it! No glue or nails. When the paint dries, the tie strip has permanently adhered itself to the roadbed. You then add your favorite rail in either code 70 or 83. I use Barge cement to glue the rails on the tie plates. It is a rubber based glue used in the shoe repair business. Once it cures. it is pretty permanent. I have laid hundreds of feet of track using these tie strips without one problem. Central Valley just released several sizes of turnout kits that match up with these tie strips. Their turnout kits are about as close as you can get to the prototype.

Dale

[Anonymous]

My biggest challenge in tracklaying was building my HO scale Oil Creek Logging Company railroad up a curved valley. The track was hand laid code 70 on about 300 logs made from small branches from old Christmas trees. The rail was glued to the ties (logs) using Pliobond (from ME) and also spiked every 5th tie.

In order to get the curve and elevation correct, I installed the sub-roadbed using splines made from lattice and underlayment topped with four inches of pink foam about one foot wide. With the elevation and curves correct, I un-installed the whole 14 foot section by unscrewing the risers (5) from the joists and moving the whole unit to the shop. I then could hand lay the ties and rail directly onto the foam (after painting the foam with brown paint and then covering with a slurry of white glue, water and sifted dirt) and complete the scenery one foot wide and 14 feet long.

The big challenge was how to install the small log trestles (made from branches from Christmas trees) under the ties. This was accomplished by cutting out the foam from under the ties and rail with a sharp knife. The rails over the trestle was spiked every tie so the rail and the ties stayed attached to each other allowing me to fit the log trestle under the ties. By using this method the proper elevation and track radius were maintained and the track stayed level as the log trestles were installed under the ties. With the scenery completed on the whole S shaped 14 foot unit, it was moved back to the layout and re-installed.

[Anonymous]

My biggest challenge in tracklaying was building my HO scale Oil Creek Logging Company railroad up a curved valley. The track was hand laid code 70 on about 300 logs made from small branches from old Christmas trees. The rail was glued to the ties (logs) using Pliobond (from ME) and also spiked every 5th tie.

In order to get the curve and elevation correct, I installed the sub-roadbed using splines made from lattice and underlayment topped with four inches of pink foam about one foot wide. With the elevation and curves correct, I un-installed the whole 14 foot section by unscrewing the risers (5) from the joists and moving the whole unit to the shop. I then could hand lay the ties and rail directly onto the foam (after painting the foam with brown paint and then covering with a slurry of white glue, water and sifted dirt) and complete the scenery one foot wide and 14 feet long.

The big challenge was how to install the small log trestles (made from branches from Christmas trees) under the ties. This was accomplished by cutting out the foam from under the ties and rail with a sharp knife. The rails over the trestle was spiked every tie so the rail and the ties stayed attached to each other allowing me to fit the log trestle under the ties. By using this method the proper elevation and track radius were maintained and the track stayed level as the log trestles were installed under the ties. With the scenery completed on the whole S shaped 14 foot unit, it was moved back to the layout and re-installed.

[cp1057]

Having the time and patience to do it right the first time! Each time I redo my layout I have been disciplining myself to take more care to get the straight sections straight and the curved sections to follow the proper radius and end up where they're supposed to be.

Charles
Hillsburgh Ont

[cp1057]

Having the time and patience to do it right the first time! Each time I redo my layout I have been disciplining myself to take more care to get the straight sections straight and the curved sections to follow the proper radius and end up where they're supposed to be.

Charles
Hillsburgh Ont

[Anonymous]

In my area, Montreal Canada, just finding code 83, let alone 100!!. Then $ 4.50 cdn plus per 36"! ...Not to gripe, I suppose I could mailorder but then I already said my piece on that issue elsewhere in this forum. I would love to see Shinohara or Peco available anywhere in Montreal in decent qtys. The best I have seen is perhaps 2 turnouts in one store at a time. (never the one you need however).
At the usual replacement time in Montreal it would take me 25 years to find enough to build a crossover. Figure I'm miffed?!! You bet I am. I've resorted to tearing apart code 100 Atlas flex just to build a turnout by hand! And some of you guys figure you have it tough! If a store would stock code 83 in qty at similar prices to those in the good ol USA I would probably blow a paycheck at a shot just to get it.

[Anonymous]

In my area, Montreal Canada, just finding code 83, let alone 100!!. Then $ 4.50 cdn plus per 36"! ...Not to gripe, I suppose I could mailorder but then I already said my piece on that issue elsewhere in this forum. I would love to see Shinohara or Peco available anywhere in Montreal in decent qtys. The best I have seen is perhaps 2 turnouts in one store at a time. (never the one you need however).
At the usual replacement time in Montreal it would take me 25 years to find enough to build a crossover. Figure I'm miffed?!! You bet I am. I've resorted to tearing apart code 100 Atlas flex just to build a turnout by hand! And some of you guys figure you have it tough! If a store would stock code 83 in qty at similar prices to those in the good ol USA I would probably blow a paycheck at a shot just to get it.

[willy6]

one of my problems was ballasting on a turnout. all those little rocks getting into the moving parts.i just let the glue dry and take my handy pocket screwdriver and start chipping them out.

[willy6]

one of my problems was ballasting on a turnout. all those little rocks getting into the moving parts.i just let the glue dry and take my handy pocket screwdriver and start chipping them out.

[Anonymous]

Getting N scale track perfectly straight is always a challenge, especially when using track nails. I just tried liquid nails for projects and its great - sticky but just enough wiggle and time to work to get the track where you want it.

My other problem is cutting and fitting the little half inch pieces usually necessary when doing intricate track work.

[Anonymous]

Getting N scale track perfectly straight is always a challenge, especially when using track nails. I just tried liquid nails for projects and its great - sticky but just enough wiggle and time to work to get the track where you want it.

My other problem is cutting and fitting the little half inch pieces usually necessary when doing intricate track work.

[bruce22]

maximizing the number of manually thrown turnouts and watching for vertical rises at rail joints.

[bruce22]

maximizing the number of manually thrown turnouts and watching for vertical rises at rail joints.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tomwatkins

Getting powered switch machines adjusted so that they work reliably. Which of course means to throw completely every time. I decided to go with twin-pole machines instead of switch motors because of cost. Bad Decision. I'm currently converting as many turnouts as possible to manual operation.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tomwatkins

Getting powered switch machines adjusted so that they work reliably. Which of course means to throw completely every time. I decided to go with twin-pole machines instead of switch motors because of cost. Bad Decision. I'm currently converting as many turnouts as possible to manual operation.

[nslakediv]

jbox1015. put a straight tangent in between s-curve. tangent should be as long as longest piece of rolling stock. no problem.

[nslakediv]

jbox1015. put a straight tangent in between s-curve. tangent should be as long as longest piece of rolling stock. no problem.

[eastcoast]

TRYING TO KEEP MY WORK AREA UNCLUTTERED WITH TOOLS
AND THEN WHEN I DO CLEAN UP, CAN'T FIND ANYTHING I PUT AWAY.

[eastcoast]

TRYING TO KEEP MY WORK AREA UNCLUTTERED WITH TOOLS
AND THEN WHEN I DO CLEAN UP, CAN'T FIND ANYTHING I PUT AWAY.

[fwright]

Hand-laid my track twenty+ years ago in HO using code 70 rail...now getting back in the hobby with a mixture of HO and HOn3.

Question #1: Is spiking code 55 rail practical? Which spikes are small enough?

Question #2: Homasote is/was difficult to find but worked well for hand-laying track (once - if you had to take up the track the top paper surface disappeared and so did the spike holding qualities). Is the extruded insulation foam board (pink or blue) a suitable replacement? Has anybody tried gluing ties to the foam board? Does it hold spikes without curling them (most soft wood roadbeds I have tried curled way too many spikes)?

Question #3: What about cork as a roadbed for hand-laid track? In the 1950's and '60s, the word was don't hand-lay track on cork because the cork would shift, but we nailed the cork down instead of gluing it, and it was twice as thick (1/2 inch instead of 1/4 inch). Would gluing today's thin cork, with ties glued to the cork be rigid enough?

Fred Wright

[fwright]

Hand-laid my track twenty+ years ago in HO using code 70 rail...now getting back in the hobby with a mixture of HO and HOn3.

Question #1: Is spiking code 55 rail practical? Which spikes are small enough?

Question #2: Homasote is/was difficult to find but worked well for hand-laying track (once - if you had to take up the track the top paper surface disappeared and so did the spike holding qualities). Is the extruded insulation foam board (pink or blue) a suitable replacement? Has anybody tried gluing ties to the foam board? Does it hold spikes without curling them (most soft wood roadbeds I have tried curled way too many spikes)?

Question #3: What about cork as a roadbed for hand-laid track? In the 1950's and '60s, the word was don't hand-lay track on cork because the cork would shift, but we nailed the cork down instead of gluing it, and it was twice as thick (1/2 inch instead of 1/4 inch). Would gluing today's thin cork, with ties glued to the cork be rigid enough?

Fred Wright

[Anonymous]

Fitting Märklin Z scale track lengths together can be a test of patience. For some reason, certain sections don't want to fit together neatly. Ripping out a promising looking, already laid section to try has always worked though. I guess the tiny size magnifies the smallest incompatibility. Getting the long straight run to be straight is also fun and games. I've used a yardstick laid next to the track for a guide as I spike the track. Because Z is so light, I've been able to get away with using foam-filled board as a baseboard, two layers glued together. It's quite rigid. The advantage of this material is that spiking is sufficiently secure to hold track in place but nevertheless easy to remove if need be. I used a small metal spatula slipped under the track when I reconfigured and enlarged my layout last week.
Wiring up electrically operated switches/points is a chore that I would rather do without. I want radio-operated remote-control switches in Z scale - any takers?!

[Anonymous]

Fitting Märklin Z scale track lengths together can be a test of patience. For some reason, certain sections don't want to fit together neatly. Ripping out a promising looking, already laid section to try has always worked though. I guess the tiny size magnifies the smallest incompatibility. Getting the long straight run to be straight is also fun and games. I've used a yardstick laid next to the track for a guide as I spike the track. Because Z is so light, I've been able to get away with using foam-filled board as a baseboard, two layers glued together. It's quite rigid. The advantage of this material is that spiking is sufficiently secure to hold track in place but nevertheless easy to remove if need be. I used a small metal spatula slipped under the track when I reconfigured and enlarged my layout last week.
Wiring up electrically operated switches/points is a chore that I would rather do without. I want radio-operated remote-control switches in Z scale - any takers?!

[Anonymous]

Good looking and good operating track and turnouts are more important to me than great scenery. I build all my own track and turnouts, I use a lot of manual turnouts and use a divice like the one shone in the Dec. MR. I've added contacts to this, so the power is routed through these as well as the points. As far as getting smooth curves, I solder two lengths of rail together with a joiner in a streight line then bend them into the curve.

[Anonymous]

Good looking and good operating track and turnouts are more important to me than great scenery. I build all my own track and turnouts, I use a lot of manual turnouts and use a divice like the one shone in the Dec. MR. I've added contacts to this, so the power is routed through these as well as the points. As far as getting smooth curves, I solder two lengths of rail together with a joiner in a streight line then bend them into the curve.

[Anonymous]

Finding/making time to work on my layout!

[Anonymous]

Finding/making time to work on my layout!

[Anonymous]

I speak from research experience toward my second layout: READ ALL THE LITERATURE you can lay hands on.

Read John Armstrong particularly. See his book on prototype features and their application to model RR layouts. Several people comment on curves devouring space they were pained to loose. John will clear away your pain. Read about SQUARES, how calculated and how applied to your dream plans for realistic nailing to the table.

These books go for $18 to 20-odd so aren't cheap. You will get yer money back first time you go from chaulk to cookie-cut plywood. The classics are in your library, too.

Now, hand-laying track??duno. Hand laying TURNOUTS??wow. CURVED turnouts, ah! maybe worth the learning curve....Would any of you lay-it-flawlessly-w-yer-eyes-closed guys/gals talk up the techniques of this, please??!

[Anonymous]

I speak from research experience toward my second layout: READ ALL THE LITERATURE you can lay hands on.

Read John Armstrong particularly. See his book on prototype features and their application to model RR layouts. Several people comment on curves devouring space they were pained to loose. John will clear away your pain. Read about SQUARES, how calculated and how applied to your dream plans for realistic nailing to the table.

These books go for $18 to 20-odd so aren't cheap. You will get yer money back first time you go from chaulk to cookie-cut plywood. The classics are in your library, too.

Now, hand-laying track??duno. Hand laying TURNOUTS??wow. CURVED turnouts, ah! maybe worth the learning curve....Would any of you lay-it-flawlessly-w-yer-eyes-closed guys/gals talk up the techniques of this, please??!

[Anonymous]

Any tips on getting started working with flex track? I'm a TOTAL rookie.

[Anonymous]

Any tips on getting started working with flex track? I'm a TOTAL rookie.

[Anonymous]

track laying , TRACKLAYING!!!! i hate tracklaying espesillay nailing the stuff but i found that sticky roadbed stuff its perfect chucked all my nails out that day

Codyr

[Anonymous]

track laying , TRACKLAYING!!!! i hate tracklaying espesillay nailing the stuff but i found that sticky roadbed stuff its perfect chucked all my nails out that day

Codyr

[snowey]

that "sticky roadbed stuff" is called AMI INSTA-BED.

[snowey]

that "sticky roadbed stuff" is called AMI INSTA-BED.

[Anonymous]

I'll have to agree with dknelson, geting started has always been the hardest part for me as well.

[Anonymous]

I'll have to agree with dknelson, geting started has always been the hardest part for me as well.

[CP5415]

My biggest challenge is not being interrupted when I actually get to work on tracklaying.
I love my wife & daughter they are number one on my list, but sometimes....

Gordon

[CP5415]

My biggest challenge is not being interrupted when I actually get to work on tracklaying.
I love my wife & daughter they are number one on my list, but sometimes....

Gordon

[Paul W. Beverung]

In H.O. I'd say keeping it to a sane amont. I've always planned too much. In my Large Scale 7 1/2 inch gauge 1 5/8 in scale and 4in scale it's the same,only worse. I've had to move hundreds of yards of dirt to get my first 1/4 mile of track in. Model railroading in any scale is FUN.

[Paul W. Beverung]

In H.O. I'd say keeping it to a sane amont. I've always planned too much. In my Large Scale 7 1/2 inch gauge 1 5/8 in scale and 4in scale it's the same,only worse. I've had to move hundreds of yards of dirt to get my first 1/4 mile of track in. Model railroading in any scale is FUN.

[Anonymous]

the biggest problem most people have with track is being in a hurry to get it down. this leads to lots of problems and heartache. there are multiple sources of information for laying track, almost every article on layout construction in MR has some info on track laying. no matter what track you lay, what system you use for fastening track or what you use for roadbed, the best advice I can give is to not be in a hurry. take your time, be careful, do it right the first time. do not proceed with the next section of track until you are absolutely pleased with the section you are working on. take about 2 to 3 times longer than you think you need and get it right. no squeezing, kinking or hurrrying to force things to fit. it just won't work. i always run my lightest cars (hand pushed) back and forth over each section of track i lay until things are smoooooth. you hurry, you get what you deserve.

steam is king

[Anonymous]

the biggest problem most people have with track is being in a hurry to get it down. this leads to lots of problems and heartache. there are multiple sources of information for laying track, almost every article on layout construction in MR has some info on track laying. no matter what track you lay, what system you use for fastening track or what you use for roadbed, the best advice I can give is to not be in a hurry. take your time, be careful, do it right the first time. do not proceed with the next section of track until you are absolutely pleased with the section you are working on. take about 2 to 3 times longer than you think you need and get it right. no squeezing, kinking or hurrrying to force things to fit. it just won't work. i always run my lightest cars (hand pushed) back and forth over each section of track i lay until things are smoooooth. you hurry, you get what you deserve.

steam is king

[Anonymous]

The hardest for me has been designing a track plan and the CAD programs just frustrate me. Going through some old MRs I found a published plan I really liked that would fit in my space and it works well. I used Atlas flex and turnouts, mostly code 100 because I had quite a bit on hand. Some sidings, etc are code 83. If I'm not satisfied with an area of a yard, for example, I pull it up and redo it. For the yard and industrial areas I've been using the adhesive caulk method described recently in MR.
It works very well, and it allows you to redo an area without destroying your track. Since no turnout is more that two inches from benchwork edge I'm using Caboose Industries ground throws. No switch machine maintenence that way.

Ed

[Anonymous]

The hardest for me has been designing a track plan and the CAD programs just frustrate me. Going through some old MRs I found a published plan I really liked that would fit in my space and it works well. I used Atlas flex and turnouts, mostly code 100 because I had quite a bit on hand. Some sidings, etc are code 83. If I'm not satisfied with an area of a yard, for example, I pull it up and redo it. For the yard and industrial areas I've been using the adhesive caulk method described recently in MR.
It works very well, and it allows you to redo an area without destroying your track. Since no turnout is more that two inches from benchwork edge I'm using Caboose Industries ground throws. No switch machine maintenence that way.

Ed

[Anonymous]

hand laying turnouts is not difficult anymore. some years ago a guy named tony koester had an article in MR about creating your own turnouts. that article was complete in every detail. i started cookbooking turnouts from the article and they all work better than anything i have ever been able to purchase. the most important thing in handlaying any track/turnout is to go slow, do it right the first time. DO NOT GET IN A HURRY. if you do, you'll end up doing it over, or buying something less than you can create yourself with just a little patience. this hobby is supposed to be fun, not a mad haphazard da***o mediocrity that results in disappointment.

tom

[Anonymous]

hand laying turnouts is not difficult anymore. some years ago a guy named tony koester had an article in MR about creating your own turnouts. that article was complete in every detail. i started cookbooking turnouts from the article and they all work better than anything i have ever been able to purchase. the most important thing in handlaying any track/turnout is to go slow, do it right the first time. DO NOT GET IN A HURRY. if you do, you'll end up doing it over, or buying something less than you can create yourself with just a little patience. this hobby is supposed to be fun, not a mad haphazard da***o mediocrity that results in disappointment.

tom

[Anonymous]

Well, after reading the posts and replies... I feel better.

Trackplans and planning software should be banned... Sure, they look great and help you understand that you have 10 times the space that you initially thought. Until you begin actually building the layout and realize you have JUST as much space as you originally thought, and that the design would have been more practical if you just laid a flat sheet of brass on the wood frame and added power.... HA!

I would love to actually "finish" a layout. I have changed from LGB to HO to N Scale (get the feeling that space is getting tighter?) I have struggled with the framework... VERY IMPORTANT... Get the benchwork built level and true. Make it heavy... Make it out of Bridge Steel if possible. I have ripped out whole layouts due to warping and mistakes in the initial skeleton.

Turnouts... Switching to DCC has wreaked havoc on simple factory turnouts.

Electrical... To solder or not to solder... that is the question. Rail joiners are great until you get to N Scale Flex Track. But the solder can crack or release.

Tunneling and hidden track.... DON'T DO IT... If you can't reach it, don't run it. And I don't mean 2" clearance for your tallest cars... I mean, if you can't get your head in a position to focus both eyes on the rails to make a repair that may take up to 15 minutes, then skip the design and work on a nice flat midwest plains layout. We have binocular vision folks... mess with it and you wind up with a dizzy, nauseated session of soldering or cleaning without depth perception.

Magnetic Automatic Couplers.... should be called Random Intermittent Uncouplers.

But how do you overcome these issues? Start with the best laid benchwork. (Hire a contractor, cabinet expert, and a few lumber consultants, and a psychiatrist. ) Take your time, use the best wood possilbe. LOOK IT OVER before loading it at the yard. If two screws will fit, use three. DON'T NAIL (it's old technology, nails don't help overcome your inability to measure. Screws PULL and lock parts together.)

Lay the mainline ENTIRELY... Sure, slips and turnouts can be in place for where you want them to be, but DON'T add the side yards, and industry until your mainline is in, and bulletproof. (worst case, you can run trains on the main while waiting for glue to dry, or your nerves to calm again.) I don't even want to think about the smaller industry models until I can physically verify the amount of room left on the board.

Turnouts, look ahead, buy the ones that do the least. If you can modify them later, perfect. If they seem to handle all of the switching operation seamlessly, worry.

Basically, we are all nuts. We throw perfectly good money into these little toy trains that we stuff into every available corner we can wrench away from our family. Typically we can be found locked in a small room worrying about the most minute details of our little models, while others are busy watching the ball game.

(I am rethinking that Psychiatrist thing....)

[Anonymous]

Well, after reading the posts and replies... I feel better.

Trackplans and planning software should be banned... Sure, they look great and help you understand that you have 10 times the space that you initially thought. Until you begin actually building the layout and realize you have JUST as much space as you originally thought, and that the design would have been more practical if you just laid a flat sheet of brass on the wood frame and added power.... HA!

I would love to actually "finish" a layout. I have changed from LGB to HO to N Scale (get the feeling that space is getting tighter?) I have struggled with the framework... VERY IMPORTANT... Get the benchwork built level and true. Make it heavy... Make it out of Bridge Steel if possible. I have ripped out whole layouts due to warping and mistakes in the initial skeleton.

Turnouts... Switching to DCC has wreaked havoc on simple factory turnouts.

Electrical... To solder or not to solder... that is the question. Rail joiners are great until you get to N Scale Flex Track. But the solder can crack or release.

Tunneling and hidden track.... DON'T DO IT... If you can't reach it, don't run it. And I don't mean 2" clearance for your tallest cars... I mean, if you can't get your head in a position to focus both eyes on the rails to make a repair that may take up to 15 minutes, then skip the design and work on a nice flat midwest plains layout. We have binocular vision folks... mess with it and you wind up with a dizzy, nauseated session of soldering or cleaning without depth perception.

Magnetic Automatic Couplers.... should be called Random Intermittent Uncouplers.

But how do you overcome these issues? Start with the best laid benchwork. (Hire a contractor, cabinet expert, and a few lumber consultants, and a psychiatrist. ) Take your time, use the best wood possilbe. LOOK IT OVER before loading it at the yard. If two screws will fit, use three. DON'T NAIL (it's old technology, nails don't help overcome your inability to measure. Screws PULL and lock parts together.)

Lay the mainline ENTIRELY... Sure, slips and turnouts can be in place for where you want them to be, but DON'T add the side yards, and industry until your mainline is in, and bulletproof. (worst case, you can run trains on the main while waiting for glue to dry, or your nerves to calm again.) I don't even want to think about the smaller industry models until I can physically verify the amount of room left on the board.

Turnouts, look ahead, buy the ones that do the least. If you can modify them later, perfect. If they seem to handle all of the switching operation seamlessly, worry.

Basically, we are all nuts. We throw perfectly good money into these little toy trains that we stuff into every available corner we can wrench away from our family. Typically we can be found locked in a small room worrying about the most minute details of our little models, while others are busy watching the ball game.

(I am rethinking that Psychiatrist thing....)

[johncolley]

Hey, Happy New Year to all you gandy dancers out there...Be Not Afraid! Take it one step at a time and be thorough! My first attempt is a curved trestle, one side of the Keddie Wye done in wood instead of steel. Sure it takes time to do things right, but the result is a thing of beauty! I used code 83 on a 24" radius with easements! Spiking most of the rail every 4th tie except at the ends every tie for three then skip one then skip 2 then skip 3 and you are on your way. I did use code 70 for the guardrails and glued them down.. Good luck and don't be afraid to try it! johncolley tholcapn

[johncolley]

Hey, Happy New Year to all you gandy dancers out there...Be Not Afraid! Take it one step at a time and be thorough! My first attempt is a curved trestle, one side of the Keddie Wye done in wood instead of steel. Sure it takes time to do things right, but the result is a thing of beauty! I used code 83 on a 24" radius with easements! Spiking most of the rail every 4th tie except at the ends every tie for three then skip one then skip 2 then skip 3 and you are on your way. I did use code 70 for the guardrails and glued them down.. Good luck and don't be afraid to try it! johncolley tholcapn

[timthechef]

Deciding how to position things on the layout. I'm modeling the 1920's and I'm not old enough to have seen this time so finding out how things worked and where positioned (power houses and coal feeds for small industry) not to mention what equiptment was being used at the time is a real challenge for me. I have to say that it has been a rewarding experience. I have learned alot and still have more to learn.

[timthechef]

Deciding how to position things on the layout. I'm modeling the 1920's and I'm not old enough to have seen this time so finding out how things worked and where positioned (power houses and coal feeds for small industry) not to mention what equiptment was being used at the time is a real challenge for me. I have to say that it has been a rewarding experience. I have learned alot and still have more to learn.

[Anonymous]

Iain Rice of " Roque Bluffs " has published a book titled " PCB Track Construction " ( Hawshill Press ) which is available from Dave Cleal Mainly Trains ( www.mainlytrains.com ) in the UK who has Credit card facilities and provides a good service. ( My only connection is as a happy customer ! ) where Iain explains how he builds soldered PCB based track of various prototypes and gauges, including multi-gauge track. Anyone contemplating soldered track should read this book.

The other avenue for prototype track is the USRA / AREA ( American Railroad Engineering Association ) which should be able to direct you to original scources for US prototype track standards. These standards varied between companies and over the years, Additionally some US roads favoured particular layouts and track formations which like signalling can indicate the railway you are viewing without a train or rolling stock being present.

Regards, sunstream2

[Anonymous]

Iain Rice of " Roque Bluffs " has published a book titled " PCB Track Construction " ( Hawshill Press ) which is available from Dave Cleal Mainly Trains ( www.mainlytrains.com ) in the UK who has Credit card facilities and provides a good service. ( My only connection is as a happy customer ! ) where Iain explains how he builds soldered PCB based track of various prototypes and gauges, including multi-gauge track. Anyone contemplating soldered track should read this book.

The other avenue for prototype track is the USRA / AREA ( American Railroad Engineering Association ) which should be able to direct you to original scources for US prototype track standards. These standards varied between companies and over the years, Additionally some US roads favoured particular layouts and track formations which like signalling can indicate the railway you are viewing without a train or rolling stock being present.

Regards, sunstream2

[Anonymous]

My biggest challenge to tracklaying is trying to figure out where I want to place various industries in a town on the layout. The location of the industries will determine where I will have to lay track to serve those industries. So my biggest challenge is trying to figure out how to lay out the town so I can operate with it when I get the layout more completed.

Dale B.

[Anonymous]

My biggest challenge to tracklaying is trying to figure out where I want to place various industries in a town on the layout. The location of the industries will determine where I will have to lay track to serve those industries. So my biggest challenge is trying to figure out how to lay out the town so I can operate with it when I get the layout more completed.

Dale B.

[randybc2003]

I have laid Atlas Snap-Track, Flex Track, and Hand Laid track. (but not turnouts)
I have use Snap-Turnouts, Custom Line Turnouts, Peco Turnouts, and Lambert Turnouts.
I have used underneath "banger" switch machines, below "switch moters", surface "bangers", and manual ground throws.
I use plywood or particle board subbase. (never could find Homosote where I live). I usually top w/ Atlas cork roadbed.
Weather "Atlas Flat-Top", "Cookie Cutter" or L-Girder w/ risers, I use procedures outlined in Atlas books.
Toughtest job is getting nails into the plywood - even if I use glue. Use thin nails, pre-drill if necessary.
Work Slowly and carefully. If roadbed or track gets out of alignment, back up and re-do it. Proceed carefuly. Peel your eyeball and sharpen your sight. DON'T TOLERATE KINKS!

[randybc2003]

I have laid Atlas Snap-Track, Flex Track, and Hand Laid track. (but not turnouts)
I have use Snap-Turnouts, Custom Line Turnouts, Peco Turnouts, and Lambert Turnouts.
I have used underneath "banger" switch machines, below "switch moters", surface "bangers", and manual ground throws.
I use plywood or particle board subbase. (never could find Homosote where I live). I usually top w/ Atlas cork roadbed.
Weather "Atlas Flat-Top", "Cookie Cutter" or L-Girder w/ risers, I use procedures outlined in Atlas books.
Toughtest job is getting nails into the plywood - even if I use glue. Use thin nails, pre-drill if necessary.
Work Slowly and carefully. If roadbed or track gets out of alignment, back up and re-do it. Proceed carefuly. Peel your eyeball and sharpen your sight. DON'T TOLERATE KINKS!

[mls1621]

My biggest challenge to date has been keeping moisture out of the control linkage for my turnouts.

I'm modelling in N scale and using Micro Engineering code 70 turnouts. .025 piano wire running through brass tubing, with Caboose Ind. ground throws. The ground throws incorporate a slide switch for the polarity change of the frog. The ground throw also contains a spring to hold the points against the stock rail.

All of this works fine, till water enters the equation. I made the mistake of spraying the area after applying glue to anchor the track. The water was intended to help spread the glue evenly. Some got into the mechanism of two of my turnouts, requiring removal and replacement of the piano wire and brass tubing.

The next challenge will be ballasting the turnouts, using a small bru***o apply glue between the ties to prevent re-occurance of the same problem.

Ballasting the track is my least favorite part of this hobby.

Mike
St Louis

[mls1621]

My biggest challenge to date has been keeping moisture out of the control linkage for my turnouts.

I'm modelling in N scale and using Micro Engineering code 70 turnouts. .025 piano wire running through brass tubing, with Caboose Ind. ground throws. The ground throws incorporate a slide switch for the polarity change of the frog. The ground throw also contains a spring to hold the points against the stock rail.

All of this works fine, till water enters the equation. I made the mistake of spraying the area after applying glue to anchor the track. The water was intended to help spread the glue evenly. Some got into the mechanism of two of my turnouts, requiring removal and replacement of the piano wire and brass tubing.

The next challenge will be ballasting the turnouts, using a small bru***o apply glue between the ties to prevent re-occurance of the same problem.

Ballasting the track is my least favorite part of this hobby.

Mike
St Louis

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: hand laying turnouts is not difficult anymore. some years ago a guy named tony koester had an article in MR about creating your own turnouts.

The February 2004 issue has an article on how to do this too.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: hand laying turnouts is not difficult anymore. some years ago a guy named tony koester had an article in MR about creating your own turnouts.

The February 2004 issue has an article on how to do this too.

[Anonymous]

I model in N scale. My biggest challenge is saving track and turnouts, when I change my mind about the track alinement. I now glue my roadbed and my track down with "Aleene's orininal Tacky Glue". It holds well, some track has been in place seven years. Now the cool part. When I see a better alinement I place wet towels on the track and after a while the track can be shifted or removed with no damage.
Michael

[Anonymous]

I model in N scale. My biggest challenge is saving track and turnouts, when I change my mind about the track alinement. I now glue my roadbed and my track down with "Aleene's orininal Tacky Glue". It holds well, some track has been in place seven years. Now the cool part. When I see a better alinement I place wet towels on the track and after a while the track can be shifted or removed with no damage.
Michael

[FJ and G]

I secure my rails to my hand-cut ties not with spikes but with Marine Goop, a water-proof type of goop found at Home Depot. Several advantages. It holds security as spikes (ensure you weigh it down), you can use harder wood than basswood (like lauan), it is waterproof when you spray on ballast, and it makes laying rail very quick and easy.

Just wondering if anyone else has used this technique?

[FJ and G]

I secure my rails to my hand-cut ties not with spikes but with Marine Goop, a water-proof type of goop found at Home Depot. Several advantages. It holds security as spikes (ensure you weigh it down), you can use harder wood than basswood (like lauan), it is waterproof when you spray on ballast, and it makes laying rail very quick and easy.

Just wondering if anyone else has used this technique?

[Anonymous]

My biggest challenge is the cost of Turnouts - I'll grant you atlas T/O's are reasonably cheap - but you cant always use em - especially if you want to use curved T/O's
My second challenge is the cost of QUIET switch machines and I do have to use em in certain areas of my current layout.
My third challenge is Ian RIce - after having redrawn one of his track plans on two seperate track design programs I have come to the conclusion that the only way to recreate his flowing tracks is to handbuild all the turnouts - which effectively takes care of the first challenge - now as to the second............

[Anonymous]

My biggest challenge is the cost of Turnouts - I'll grant you atlas T/O's are reasonably cheap - but you cant always use em - especially if you want to use curved T/O's
My second challenge is the cost of QUIET switch machines and I do have to use em in certain areas of my current layout.
My third challenge is Ian RIce - after having redrawn one of his track plans on two seperate track design programs I have come to the conclusion that the only way to recreate his flowing tracks is to handbuild all the turnouts - which effectively takes care of the first challenge - now as to the second............

[Anonymous]

FJ and G,

How do you hold the tracks in alignment while the Marine Goop sets?

[Anonymous]

FJ and G,

How do you hold the tracks in alignment while the Marine Goop sets?

[johncolley]

to jbox 1015 You are right on with the big sweeping curves In HO I am using 48" as a mainline minimum radius and 1 section with 72" radius. Use generous easements, I use the batten method with 5/8" offset and L/2 of 10 1/2" for 48"r. and offset of 3/4" and L/2 of 12" for the 72"r. As for reverse curves, just use a minimum tangent length between easements slightly longer than your longest car. I run 85' passenger cars over 12" tangent into the easements described with no problems at all. The only exception is turnouts and crossovers which I use #10's on the main line and #8's on sidings and yards. For service tracks such as industrial tracks I use #6's unless it is for a single car handled by a switcher I might use a #4. Happy railroading, John

[johncolley]

to jbox 1015 You are right on with the big sweeping curves In HO I am using 48" as a mainline minimum radius and 1 section with 72" radius. Use generous easements, I use the batten method with 5/8" offset and L/2 of 10 1/2" for 48"r. and offset of 3/4" and L/2 of 12" for the 72"r. As for reverse curves, just use a minimum tangent length between easements slightly longer than your longest car. I run 85' passenger cars over 12" tangent into the easements described with no problems at all. The only exception is turnouts and crossovers which I use #10's on the main line and #8's on sidings and yards. For service tracks such as industrial tracks I use #6's unless it is for a single car handled by a switcher I might use a #4. Happy railroading, John

[johncolley]

to jbox 1015 You are right on with the big sweeping curves In HO I am using 48" as a mainline minimum radius and 1 section with 72" radius. Use generous easements, I use the batten method with 5/8" offset and L/2 of 10 1/2" for 48"r. and offset of 3/4" and L/2 of 12" for the 72"r. As for reverse curves, just use a minimum tangent length between easements slightly longer than your longest car. I run 85' passenger cars over 12" tangent into the easements described with no problems at all. The only exception is turnouts and crossovers which I use #10's on the main line and #8's on sidings and yards. For service tracks such as industrial tracks I use #6's unless it is for a single car handled by a switcher I might use a #4. Happy railroading, John

[johncolley]

to jbox 1015 You are right on with the big sweeping curves In HO I am using 48" as a mainline minimum radius and 1 section with 72" radius. Use generous easements, I use the batten method with 5/8" offset and L/2 of 10 1/2" for 48"r. and offset of 3/4" and L/2 of 12" for the 72"r. As for reverse curves, just use a minimum tangent length between easements slightly longer than your longest car. I run 85' passenger cars over 12" tangent into the easements described with no problems at all. The only exception is turnouts and crossovers which I use #10's on the main line and #8's on sidings and yards. For service tracks such as industrial tracks I use #6's unless it is for a single car handled by a switcher I might use a #4. Happy railroading, John

[Anonymous]

My Biggest challenge in laying track is going from plan (revised many times) to fitting it into the layout area. No matter how carefully you measure the layout area for obstacles such as support columns, laundry appliances, utility meters and heating equipment, the track will often require more space than you think. Usually at the cost of isle space. I look at the track plan as a reference only. This time (my second attempt at building a layout) I'm building modular style. That way, if I have to, I can move the modules to fit the room or other modules.

[Anonymous]

My Biggest challenge in laying track is going from plan (revised many times) to fitting it into the layout area. No matter how carefully you measure the layout area for obstacles such as support columns, laundry appliances, utility meters and heating equipment, the track will often require more space than you think. Usually at the cost of isle space. I look at the track plan as a reference only. This time (my second attempt at building a layout) I'm building modular style. That way, if I have to, I can move the modules to fit the room or other modules.

[Anonymous]

Just gettting the solder technique at the joints is a problem. Heat the work - you bet. So far I found a 75 watt iron to work sometimes and other times the rail seems to be great big heat sink and solder refuses to take. Next step - I'll try a propane solder iron. Any tips to improve my technique won't be wasted. I've got about 75 joints that I'm ignoring for now.

[Anonymous]

Just gettting the solder technique at the joints is a problem. Heat the work - you bet. So far I found a 75 watt iron to work sometimes and other times the rail seems to be great big heat sink and solder refuses to take. Next step - I'll try a propane solder iron. Any tips to improve my technique won't be wasted. I've got about 75 joints that I'm ignoring for now.

[Anonymous]

Jerry,

I get good soldering with a 30 watt pencil iron. A few tips. Make sure the tip of the iron is clean and well tinned. I wipe it on a damp sponge. The rails also need to be clean. I have a tube of rosin flux from Radio Shack and use it liberally on the area to be soldered. This seems to help heat conduction.

[Anonymous]

Jerry,

I get good soldering with a 30 watt pencil iron. A few tips. Make sure the tip of the iron is clean and well tinned. I wipe it on a damp sponge. The rails also need to be clean. I have a tube of rosin flux from Radio Shack and use it liberally on the area to be soldered. This seems to help heat conduction.

[jfugate]

Flex track has gotten so good in recent years that I only handlay these days to solve a special turnout situation, although I have to admit the Central Valley tie strips and now turnout kits all look interesting.

The most work in tracklaying comes at the turnouts. DCC friendly turnouts that look realistic are only now coming on the market. And the most layout maintenance work is the turnouts.

It's a love-hate relationship ... the more turnouts you have the more interesting trackwork you can have. But the more turnouts you have, the greater the installation and maintenance burden!

[jfugate]

Flex track has gotten so good in recent years that I only handlay these days to solve a special turnout situation, although I have to admit the Central Valley tie strips and now turnout kits all look interesting.

The most work in tracklaying comes at the turnouts. DCC friendly turnouts that look realistic are only now coming on the market. And the most layout maintenance work is the turnouts.

It's a love-hate relationship ... the more turnouts you have the more interesting trackwork you can have. But the more turnouts you have, the greater the installation and maintenance burden!

[Anonymous]

Joe,

Aside from wanting to try it, I decided to handlay the track because I am working on a very tight budget. Handlaid track is really no cheaper than flextrack, but the savings in turnouts is significant. Since money is the limiting factor, handlaying slows down progress to meet available funding. [:)]

[Anonymous]

Joe,

Aside from wanting to try it, I decided to handlay the track because I am working on a very tight budget. Handlaid track is really no cheaper than flextrack, but the savings in turnouts is significant. Since money is the limiting factor, handlaying slows down progress to meet available funding. [:)]

[mikebonellisr]

The biggest problem is laying out smooth 24" curves on a shelf layout I've not had much luck with a tripod and tramel bar.

[mikebonellisr]

The biggest problem is laying out smooth 24" curves on a shelf layout I've not had much luck with a tripod and tramel bar.

[jfugate]

QUOTE: Originally posted by PeterZ

Joe,

Aside from wanting to try it, I decided to handlay the track because I am working on a very tight budget. Handlaid track is really no cheaper than flextrack, but the savings in turnouts is significant. Since money is the limiting factor, handlaying slows down progress to meet available funding. [:)]

It's hard to disagree with the cost savings of handlaid turnouts. But they do take time! On the Siskiyou Line, I just could not bring myself to handlay over 120 turnouts, so I decided to buy them.

I actually did pretty well buying a 2-4 turnouts every payday. Then once in a while at a swap meet or in an out-of-the-way hobby shop I got some pretty good deals.

I found a whole stack of code 70 #6 shinoharas for about $6 each in the train section of a craft shop one time (they didn't know what they had and were glad to get rid of them). Another time I had a friend who tore out his layout sold me all his old shinoharas for a song ... several of them had ballast stuck to them, but a good soak in some warm soapy water fixed that.

[jfugate]

QUOTE: Originally posted by PeterZ

Joe,

Aside from wanting to try it, I decided to handlay the track because I am working on a very tight budget. Handlaid track is really no cheaper than flextrack, but the savings in turnouts is significant. Since money is the limiting factor, handlaying slows down progress to meet available funding. [:)]

It's hard to disagree with the cost savings of handlaid turnouts. But they do take time! On the Siskiyou Line, I just could not bring myself to handlay over 120 turnouts, so I decided to buy them.

I actually did pretty well buying a 2-4 turnouts every payday. Then once in a while at a swap meet or in an out-of-the-way hobby shop I got some pretty good deals.

I found a whole stack of code 70 #6 shinoharas for about $6 each in the train section of a craft shop one time (they didn't know what they had and were glad to get rid of them). Another time I had a friend who tore out his layout sold me all his old shinoharas for a song ... several of them had ballast stuck to them, but a good soak in some warm soapy water fixed that.

[Anonymous]

Joe,

The biggest advantage I have found in handlaying turnouts became aparent only after I started doing it. Each turnout can be custom fitted to the location where it is laid. After I did the first two on the layout I found myself putting the frog and stock rails where they needed to be and building the turnout to fit, rather than adjusting the track plan to fit the turnout. That one thing has me committed to handlaid turnouts..

Admittedly, I only have 15 turnouts on my current track plan, but I think I am hooked. Once you have built a few it is not hard, and really not that tedious. To top it off, the look of the stock rails running continuously through the turnouts is fantastic.

[Anonymous]

Joe,

The biggest advantage I have found in handlaying turnouts became aparent only after I started doing it. Each turnout can be custom fitted to the location where it is laid. After I did the first two on the layout I found myself putting the frog and stock rails where they needed to be and building the turnout to fit, rather than adjusting the track plan to fit the turnout. That one thing has me committed to handlaid turnouts..

Admittedly, I only have 15 turnouts on my current track plan, but I think I am hooked. Once you have built a few it is not hard, and really not that tedious. To top it off, the look of the stock rails running continuously through the turnouts is fantastic.

[Anonymous]

Mike,

The biggest problem is laying out smooth 24" curves on a shelf layout I've not had much luck with a tripod and tramel bar.

Why not make a 24" template out of posterboard? You could lay that on the shelf and trace it. If you wanted to get really fancy you could put easements at both ends, marked on the template, and mark those right onto the subroadbed where appropriate.

[Anonymous]

Mike,

The biggest problem is laying out smooth 24" curves on a shelf layout I've not had much luck with a tripod and tramel bar.

Why not make a 24" template out of posterboard? You could lay that on the shelf and trace it. If you wanted to get really fancy you could put easements at both ends, marked on the template, and mark those right onto the subroadbed where appropriate.

[cwclark]

my biggest problem in track laying is turnout placement...I always seem to get the points too close to an L-girder joist making a devil of a time lining up the under the table switch machine with the track throw bar...look before you leap stupid!..track laying is the easy and fun part...

[cwclark]

my biggest problem in track laying is turnout placement...I always seem to get the points too close to an L-girder joist making a devil of a time lining up the under the table switch machine with the track throw bar...look before you leap stupid!..track laying is the easy and fun part...

[Anonymous]

I would love to see the calculations that Iron rooster has made in regard to the creation of easement curves.

[Anonymous]

I would love to see the calculations that Iron rooster has made in regard to the creation of easement curves.