MR Express - Biggest challenges in tracklaying

[Anonymous]

finding a satisfying track plan that i can fit in a 65 sq ft "L" shape in N scale..it took me months of work on atlas's ritetrack program...so far my plan is fitting....but its far from done....plenty of room for murphy to show up yet..im hoping that taking my time and test fitting with track pieces will avoid most of the aggravation ...plus i just look silly with red ears....scott

[Anonymous]

finding a satisfying track plan that i can fit in a 65 sq ft "L" shape in N scale..it took me months of work on atlas's ritetrack program...so far my plan is fitting....but its far from done....plenty of room for murphy to show up yet..im hoping that taking my time and test fitting with track pieces will avoid most of the aggravation ...plus i just look silly with red ears....scott

[cp1057]

Tracklaying, eh? I'm having some trouble fitting turnouts into the trackplan. I lost about 18 inches of my staging tracks because I miscalculated the distance required for the tracks coming out of my turnout to diverge to the necessary spacing. It doesn't help that this is all happening on a curve.

I tried the idea from the August MR using adhesive caulk to lay flextrack. Works great!

I'm having some trouble with a turnout and switch machine, I've posted a description elsewhere in the forum.

Charles
Hillsburgh On

[cp1057]

Tracklaying, eh? I'm having some trouble fitting turnouts into the trackplan. I lost about 18 inches of my staging tracks because I miscalculated the distance required for the tracks coming out of my turnout to diverge to the necessary spacing. It doesn't help that this is all happening on a curve.

I tried the idea from the August MR using adhesive caulk to lay flextrack. Works great!

I'm having some trouble with a turnout and switch machine, I've posted a description elsewhere in the forum.

Charles
Hillsburgh On

[tomwatkins]

Getting powered switch machines adjusted so that they work reliably. Which of course means to throw completely every time. I decided to go with twin-pole machines instead of switch motors because of cost. Bad Decision. I'm currently converting as many turnouts as possible to manual operation.

[tomwatkins]

Getting powered switch machines adjusted so that they work reliably. Which of course means to throw completely every time. I decided to go with twin-pole machines instead of switch motors because of cost. Bad Decision. I'm currently converting as many turnouts as possible to manual operation.

[Anonymous]

As a newbie and still in progress of building my first multi-level layout, every step has its challenges! First and foremost the challenge is trying to build a castle on a mobile home budget.

1. The planning software... It took several days to figure out all the, now simple, things that Atlas' RightTrack software can do. I use Atlas RT because of its name - FREEware.

2. Cutting the subroadbed (plywood) to meet the plan specifications... In the layout planning stage I built-in transistions for all curves and track switches. I.e. The first and last piece of track to a 22R curve is one 24R piece of track. Planning with RT was easy compared to cutting the subroadbed to match. Radius centers are at different points.

3. Laying the cork roadbed was easier than I expected. Using Liquid Nails to glue the cork down made it pretty simple. Until I got to the first switch! Cutting the cork to interconnect two directions and fit smoothly without gaps for the #6 track switch was a challenge in itself. I laid one of the two dogbone return loops first.

4. I decieded to use Atlas code 83 super-flex track and will start laying and testing track, one block at a time, on the newly laid roadbed this next week. I was going to nail the track until I read mikemc's reply above - to use the liquid nails and glue it down. This sounds like a better solution.

With all said, my "Biggest challenges in tracklaying" are still ahead!

My layout - for those interested... I am building a freelance 5' x 12' 4-level HO scale railroad. It has two mainlines which I call the freight line and passenger line. The inner track (freight) is based on 18R and 20R curves and the outer track is 22R and 24R curves. It has 4 sidings, 4 spurs, a small yard and 2 double slips to go from inner to outer tracks. I am building it in my garage. The framework consists of 2 4' x 4' x 40"h. "storage cabinets". One for storing camping gear and the other for holiday decorations (this helped convince my better half that the RR would not take up useless space). In the 4' space between cabinets I've put drawer slides so that the control panel slides out when in use and tucks away when not in use. With a mobile home budget I am building it with DC blocks vice DCC using 2 MRC controls. My freight engines are Santa Fe and Union Pacific and the passenger engine is Southern Pacific.

If anyone has any constructive suggestions for a newbie please e-mail me. [e-mail]

[Anonymous]

As a newbie and still in progress of building my first multi-level layout, every step has its challenges! First and foremost the challenge is trying to build a castle on a mobile home budget.

1. The planning software... It took several days to figure out all the, now simple, things that Atlas' RightTrack software can do. I use Atlas RT because of its name - FREEware.

2. Cutting the subroadbed (plywood) to meet the plan specifications... In the layout planning stage I built-in transistions for all curves and track switches. I.e. The first and last piece of track to a 22R curve is one 24R piece of track. Planning with RT was easy compared to cutting the subroadbed to match. Radius centers are at different points.

3. Laying the cork roadbed was easier than I expected. Using Liquid Nails to glue the cork down made it pretty simple. Until I got to the first switch! Cutting the cork to interconnect two directions and fit smoothly without gaps for the #6 track switch was a challenge in itself. I laid one of the two dogbone return loops first.

4. I decieded to use Atlas code 83 super-flex track and will start laying and testing track, one block at a time, on the newly laid roadbed this next week. I was going to nail the track until I read mikemc's reply above - to use the liquid nails and glue it down. This sounds like a better solution.

With all said, my "Biggest challenges in tracklaying" are still ahead!

My layout - for those interested... I am building a freelance 5' x 12' 4-level HO scale railroad. It has two mainlines which I call the freight line and passenger line. The inner track (freight) is based on 18R and 20R curves and the outer track is 22R and 24R curves. It has 4 sidings, 4 spurs, a small yard and 2 double slips to go from inner to outer tracks. I am building it in my garage. The framework consists of 2 4' x 4' x 40"h. "storage cabinets". One for storing camping gear and the other for holiday decorations (this helped convince my better half that the RR would not take up useless space). In the 4' space between cabinets I've put drawer slides so that the control panel slides out when in use and tucks away when not in use. With a mobile home budget I am building it with DC blocks vice DCC using 2 MRC controls. My freight engines are Santa Fe and Union Pacific and the passenger engine is Southern Pacific.

If anyone has any constructive suggestions for a newbie please e-mail me. [e-mail]

[Anonymous]

I am just startin a large lay out that will have i hope 9 large sweeping curves but i am afraid of trying to use some type of a cad system for design so i will have to lay them by trail and error i guess. it will be code 100 as iam not going to all the expense of switching to code 83 i agree it would look beter one thing in my favor is they tell me i have the pacience of jobbe what ever that means. Question can you lay and s curve in ho i have head it will deraill more cars then the beauty of it for train pictures.

[Anonymous]

I am just startin a large lay out that will have i hope 9 large sweeping curves but i am afraid of trying to use some type of a cad system for design so i will have to lay them by trail and error i guess. it will be code 100 as iam not going to all the expense of switching to code 83 i agree it would look beter one thing in my favor is they tell me i have the pacience of jobbe what ever that means. Question can you lay and s curve in ho i have head it will deraill more cars then the beauty of it for train pictures.

[vsmith]

1. Using drywall screws to secure track to the benchwork.

2. Using a hacksaw and a file to cut rails to lenth.

3. Using railclamps to bolt the track sections together.

4. Wiring the whole shi-bang together with all Atlas control components.

5. Cutting roadbed from 3/16" cork sheets and glueing it down.

I should mention I am doing 1/2" scale indoors. So just think HO blown up 3X.

[vsmith]

1. Using drywall screws to secure track to the benchwork.

2. Using a hacksaw and a file to cut rails to lenth.

3. Using railclamps to bolt the track sections together.

4. Wiring the whole shi-bang together with all Atlas control components.

5. Cutting roadbed from 3/16" cork sheets and glueing it down.

I should mention I am doing 1/2" scale indoors. So just think HO blown up 3X.

[Anonymous]

Ballasting

Or, more specifically, working out how to stop the ballast from falling off when I move the boards (my layout's designed to be portable for exhibitions). I know about using PVA wood glue mixed with water and washing up liquid (not sure if you use the same name in the US, this is the stuff you use for washing dishes). The problem is getting the right quantities of all three ingredients! Still, at least it's easy to remove from the rails - a track cleaning block takes it off very easily.

[Anonymous]

Ballasting

Or, more specifically, working out how to stop the ballast from falling off when I move the boards (my layout's designed to be portable for exhibitions). I know about using PVA wood glue mixed with water and washing up liquid (not sure if you use the same name in the US, this is the stuff you use for washing dishes). The problem is getting the right quantities of all three ingredients! Still, at least it's easy to remove from the rails - a track cleaning block takes it off very easily.

[Anonymous]

i live in wayne county ohio and i am looking for someone to help me build my HO RR e mail at rpower @zoominternet.net thanks ***

[Anonymous]

i live in wayne county ohio and i am looking for someone to help me build my HO RR e mail at rpower @zoominternet.net thanks ***

[Anonymous]

Keeping the straight sections straight after they have been spiked down and before ballasting. It seems that in the summer they want to shift.

[Anonymous]

Keeping the straight sections straight after they have been spiked down and before ballasting. It seems that in the summer they want to shift.

[CP5415]

Finding time to actually work on my layout for more than 5 minutes at a time.

Gordon

[CP5415]

Finding time to actually work on my layout for more than 5 minutes at a time.

Gordon

[ClinchValleySD40]

Motivation. One of the jobs in the hobby I don't like to do is laying track.

[ClinchValleySD40]

Motivation. One of the jobs in the hobby I don't like to do is laying track.

[Anonymous]

Laying the guard rails. I use Micro Engineering code 83 rail and their #6 turnout kits and I have the most trouble with getting the guard rails set properly to do their job and still not interfere with the drivers on my steamers. I use the NMRA gauge to check wheel spacing and the flange gauge for turnouts, however I still seem to have a problem?

[Anonymous]

Laying the guard rails. I use Micro Engineering code 83 rail and their #6 turnout kits and I have the most trouble with getting the guard rails set properly to do their job and still not interfere with the drivers on my steamers. I use the NMRA gauge to check wheel spacing and the flange gauge for turnouts, however I still seem to have a problem?

[BRAKIE]

Actually I don't have any problems laying track..Some times I do find it hard to locate a place for a ground throws in my yard ladder,so I usually add a very short section of track to over come that problem

[BRAKIE]

Actually I don't have any problems laying track..Some times I do find it hard to locate a place for a ground throws in my yard ladder,so I usually add a very short section of track to over come that problem

[Anonymous]

I started using the Central Valley HO tie strips when they were first released about 15 years ago. It is the most realistic track system I have seen. I glue several tie strips together to form a long (about 8 feet) stretch of track. I use cork roadbed which I then spray using Rustoleum Fleckstone paint. This paint does a great job simulating ballast. I really load the paint on the cork and while it is wet I carefully unroll the tie strips onto the "ballast" paint. I press it down so the ties are buried. That's it! No glue or nails. When the paint dries, the tie strip has permanently adhered itself to the roadbed. You then add your favorite rail in either code 70 or 83. I use Barge cement to glue the rails on the tie plates. It is a rubber based glue used in the shoe repair business. Once it cures. it is pretty permanent. I have laid hundreds of feet of track using these tie strips without one problem. Central Valley just released several sizes of turnout kits that match up with these tie strips. Their turnout kits are about as close as you can get to the prototype.

Dale

[Anonymous]

I started using the Central Valley HO tie strips when they were first released about 15 years ago. It is the most realistic track system I have seen. I glue several tie strips together to form a long (about 8 feet) stretch of track. I use cork roadbed which I then spray using Rustoleum Fleckstone paint. This paint does a great job simulating ballast. I really load the paint on the cork and while it is wet I carefully unroll the tie strips onto the "ballast" paint. I press it down so the ties are buried. That's it! No glue or nails. When the paint dries, the tie strip has permanently adhered itself to the roadbed. You then add your favorite rail in either code 70 or 83. I use Barge cement to glue the rails on the tie plates. It is a rubber based glue used in the shoe repair business. Once it cures. it is pretty permanent. I have laid hundreds of feet of track using these tie strips without one problem. Central Valley just released several sizes of turnout kits that match up with these tie strips. Their turnout kits are about as close as you can get to the prototype.

Dale

[Anonymous]

My biggest challenge in tracklaying was building my HO scale Oil Creek Logging Company railroad up a curved valley. The track was hand laid code 70 on about 300 logs made from small branches from old Christmas trees. The rail was glued to the ties (logs) using Pliobond (from ME) and also spiked every 5th tie.

In order to get the curve and elevation correct, I installed the sub-roadbed using splines made from lattice and underlayment topped with four inches of pink foam about one foot wide. With the elevation and curves correct, I un-installed the whole 14 foot section by unscrewing the risers (5) from the joists and moving the whole unit to the shop. I then could hand lay the ties and rail directly onto the foam (after painting the foam with brown paint and then covering with a slurry of white glue, water and sifted dirt) and complete the scenery one foot wide and 14 feet long.

The big challenge was how to install the small log trestles (made from branches from Christmas trees) under the ties. This was accomplished by cutting out the foam from under the ties and rail with a sharp knife. The rails over the trestle was spiked every tie so the rail and the ties stayed attached to each other allowing me to fit the log trestle under the ties. By using this method the proper elevation and track radius were maintained and the track stayed level as the log trestles were installed under the ties. With the scenery completed on the whole S shaped 14 foot unit, it was moved back to the layout and re-installed.

[Anonymous]

My biggest challenge in tracklaying was building my HO scale Oil Creek Logging Company railroad up a curved valley. The track was hand laid code 70 on about 300 logs made from small branches from old Christmas trees. The rail was glued to the ties (logs) using Pliobond (from ME) and also spiked every 5th tie.

In order to get the curve and elevation correct, I installed the sub-roadbed using splines made from lattice and underlayment topped with four inches of pink foam about one foot wide. With the elevation and curves correct, I un-installed the whole 14 foot section by unscrewing the risers (5) from the joists and moving the whole unit to the shop. I then could hand lay the ties and rail directly onto the foam (after painting the foam with brown paint and then covering with a slurry of white glue, water and sifted dirt) and complete the scenery one foot wide and 14 feet long.

The big challenge was how to install the small log trestles (made from branches from Christmas trees) under the ties. This was accomplished by cutting out the foam from under the ties and rail with a sharp knife. The rails over the trestle was spiked every tie so the rail and the ties stayed attached to each other allowing me to fit the log trestle under the ties. By using this method the proper elevation and track radius were maintained and the track stayed level as the log trestles were installed under the ties. With the scenery completed on the whole S shaped 14 foot unit, it was moved back to the layout and re-installed.