MR Express - Biggest challenges in tracklaying

[cp1057]

Having the time and patience to do it right the first time! Each time I redo my layout I have been disciplining myself to take more care to get the straight sections straight and the curved sections to follow the proper radius and end up where they're supposed to be.

Charles
Hillsburgh Ont

[cp1057]

Having the time and patience to do it right the first time! Each time I redo my layout I have been disciplining myself to take more care to get the straight sections straight and the curved sections to follow the proper radius and end up where they're supposed to be.

Charles
Hillsburgh Ont

[Anonymous]

In my area, Montreal Canada, just finding code 83, let alone 100!!. Then $ 4.50 cdn plus per 36"! ...Not to gripe, I suppose I could mailorder but then I already said my piece on that issue elsewhere in this forum. I would love to see Shinohara or Peco available anywhere in Montreal in decent qtys. The best I have seen is perhaps 2 turnouts in one store at a time. (never the one you need however).
At the usual replacement time in Montreal it would take me 25 years to find enough to build a crossover. Figure I'm miffed?!! You bet I am. I've resorted to tearing apart code 100 Atlas flex just to build a turnout by hand! And some of you guys figure you have it tough! If a store would stock code 83 in qty at similar prices to those in the good ol USA I would probably blow a paycheck at a shot just to get it.

[Anonymous]

In my area, Montreal Canada, just finding code 83, let alone 100!!. Then $ 4.50 cdn plus per 36"! ...Not to gripe, I suppose I could mailorder but then I already said my piece on that issue elsewhere in this forum. I would love to see Shinohara or Peco available anywhere in Montreal in decent qtys. The best I have seen is perhaps 2 turnouts in one store at a time. (never the one you need however).
At the usual replacement time in Montreal it would take me 25 years to find enough to build a crossover. Figure I'm miffed?!! You bet I am. I've resorted to tearing apart code 100 Atlas flex just to build a turnout by hand! And some of you guys figure you have it tough! If a store would stock code 83 in qty at similar prices to those in the good ol USA I would probably blow a paycheck at a shot just to get it.

[willy6]

one of my problems was ballasting on a turnout. all those little rocks getting into the moving parts.i just let the glue dry and take my handy pocket screwdriver and start chipping them out.

[willy6]

one of my problems was ballasting on a turnout. all those little rocks getting into the moving parts.i just let the glue dry and take my handy pocket screwdriver and start chipping them out.

[Anonymous]

Getting N scale track perfectly straight is always a challenge, especially when using track nails. I just tried liquid nails for projects and its great - sticky but just enough wiggle and time to work to get the track where you want it.

My other problem is cutting and fitting the little half inch pieces usually necessary when doing intricate track work.

[Anonymous]

Getting N scale track perfectly straight is always a challenge, especially when using track nails. I just tried liquid nails for projects and its great - sticky but just enough wiggle and time to work to get the track where you want it.

My other problem is cutting and fitting the little half inch pieces usually necessary when doing intricate track work.

[bruce22]

maximizing the number of manually thrown turnouts and watching for vertical rises at rail joints.

[bruce22]

maximizing the number of manually thrown turnouts and watching for vertical rises at rail joints.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tomwatkins

Getting powered switch machines adjusted so that they work reliably. Which of course means to throw completely every time. I decided to go with twin-pole machines instead of switch motors because of cost. Bad Decision. I'm currently converting as many turnouts as possible to manual operation.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tomwatkins

Getting powered switch machines adjusted so that they work reliably. Which of course means to throw completely every time. I decided to go with twin-pole machines instead of switch motors because of cost. Bad Decision. I'm currently converting as many turnouts as possible to manual operation.

[nslakediv]

jbox1015. put a straight tangent in between s-curve. tangent should be as long as longest piece of rolling stock. no problem.

[nslakediv]

jbox1015. put a straight tangent in between s-curve. tangent should be as long as longest piece of rolling stock. no problem.

[eastcoast]

TRYING TO KEEP MY WORK AREA UNCLUTTERED WITH TOOLS
AND THEN WHEN I DO CLEAN UP, CAN'T FIND ANYTHING I PUT AWAY.

[eastcoast]

TRYING TO KEEP MY WORK AREA UNCLUTTERED WITH TOOLS
AND THEN WHEN I DO CLEAN UP, CAN'T FIND ANYTHING I PUT AWAY.

[fwright]

Hand-laid my track twenty+ years ago in HO using code 70 rail...now getting back in the hobby with a mixture of HO and HOn3.

Question #1: Is spiking code 55 rail practical? Which spikes are small enough?

Question #2: Homasote is/was difficult to find but worked well for hand-laying track (once - if you had to take up the track the top paper surface disappeared and so did the spike holding qualities). Is the extruded insulation foam board (pink or blue) a suitable replacement? Has anybody tried gluing ties to the foam board? Does it hold spikes without curling them (most soft wood roadbeds I have tried curled way too many spikes)?

Question #3: What about cork as a roadbed for hand-laid track? In the 1950's and '60s, the word was don't hand-lay track on cork because the cork would shift, but we nailed the cork down instead of gluing it, and it was twice as thick (1/2 inch instead of 1/4 inch). Would gluing today's thin cork, with ties glued to the cork be rigid enough?

Fred Wright

[fwright]

Hand-laid my track twenty+ years ago in HO using code 70 rail...now getting back in the hobby with a mixture of HO and HOn3.

Question #1: Is spiking code 55 rail practical? Which spikes are small enough?

Question #2: Homasote is/was difficult to find but worked well for hand-laying track (once - if you had to take up the track the top paper surface disappeared and so did the spike holding qualities). Is the extruded insulation foam board (pink or blue) a suitable replacement? Has anybody tried gluing ties to the foam board? Does it hold spikes without curling them (most soft wood roadbeds I have tried curled way too many spikes)?

Question #3: What about cork as a roadbed for hand-laid track? In the 1950's and '60s, the word was don't hand-lay track on cork because the cork would shift, but we nailed the cork down instead of gluing it, and it was twice as thick (1/2 inch instead of 1/4 inch). Would gluing today's thin cork, with ties glued to the cork be rigid enough?

Fred Wright

[Anonymous]

Fitting Märklin Z scale track lengths together can be a test of patience. For some reason, certain sections don't want to fit together neatly. Ripping out a promising looking, already laid section to try has always worked though. I guess the tiny size magnifies the smallest incompatibility. Getting the long straight run to be straight is also fun and games. I've used a yardstick laid next to the track for a guide as I spike the track. Because Z is so light, I've been able to get away with using foam-filled board as a baseboard, two layers glued together. It's quite rigid. The advantage of this material is that spiking is sufficiently secure to hold track in place but nevertheless easy to remove if need be. I used a small metal spatula slipped under the track when I reconfigured and enlarged my layout last week.
Wiring up electrically operated switches/points is a chore that I would rather do without. I want radio-operated remote-control switches in Z scale - any takers?!

[Anonymous]

Fitting Märklin Z scale track lengths together can be a test of patience. For some reason, certain sections don't want to fit together neatly. Ripping out a promising looking, already laid section to try has always worked though. I guess the tiny size magnifies the smallest incompatibility. Getting the long straight run to be straight is also fun and games. I've used a yardstick laid next to the track for a guide as I spike the track. Because Z is so light, I've been able to get away with using foam-filled board as a baseboard, two layers glued together. It's quite rigid. The advantage of this material is that spiking is sufficiently secure to hold track in place but nevertheless easy to remove if need be. I used a small metal spatula slipped under the track when I reconfigured and enlarged my layout last week.
Wiring up electrically operated switches/points is a chore that I would rather do without. I want radio-operated remote-control switches in Z scale - any takers?!

[Anonymous]

Good looking and good operating track and turnouts are more important to me than great scenery. I build all my own track and turnouts, I use a lot of manual turnouts and use a divice like the one shone in the Dec. MR. I've added contacts to this, so the power is routed through these as well as the points. As far as getting smooth curves, I solder two lengths of rail together with a joiner in a streight line then bend them into the curve.

[Anonymous]

Good looking and good operating track and turnouts are more important to me than great scenery. I build all my own track and turnouts, I use a lot of manual turnouts and use a divice like the one shone in the Dec. MR. I've added contacts to this, so the power is routed through these as well as the points. As far as getting smooth curves, I solder two lengths of rail together with a joiner in a streight line then bend them into the curve.

[Anonymous]

Finding/making time to work on my layout!

[Anonymous]

Finding/making time to work on my layout!

[Anonymous]

I speak from research experience toward my second layout: READ ALL THE LITERATURE you can lay hands on.

Read John Armstrong particularly. See his book on prototype features and their application to model RR layouts. Several people comment on curves devouring space they were pained to loose. John will clear away your pain. Read about SQUARES, how calculated and how applied to your dream plans for realistic nailing to the table.

These books go for $18 to 20-odd so aren't cheap. You will get yer money back first time you go from chaulk to cookie-cut plywood. The classics are in your library, too.

Now, hand-laying track??duno. Hand laying TURNOUTS??wow. CURVED turnouts, ah! maybe worth the learning curve....Would any of you lay-it-flawlessly-w-yer-eyes-closed guys/gals talk up the techniques of this, please??!

[Anonymous]

I speak from research experience toward my second layout: READ ALL THE LITERATURE you can lay hands on.

Read John Armstrong particularly. See his book on prototype features and their application to model RR layouts. Several people comment on curves devouring space they were pained to loose. John will clear away your pain. Read about SQUARES, how calculated and how applied to your dream plans for realistic nailing to the table.

These books go for $18 to 20-odd so aren't cheap. You will get yer money back first time you go from chaulk to cookie-cut plywood. The classics are in your library, too.

Now, hand-laying track??duno. Hand laying TURNOUTS??wow. CURVED turnouts, ah! maybe worth the learning curve....Would any of you lay-it-flawlessly-w-yer-eyes-closed guys/gals talk up the techniques of this, please??!

[Anonymous]

Any tips on getting started working with flex track? I'm a TOTAL rookie.

[Anonymous]

Any tips on getting started working with flex track? I'm a TOTAL rookie.

[Anonymous]

track laying , TRACKLAYING!!!! i hate tracklaying espesillay nailing the stuff but i found that sticky roadbed stuff its perfect chucked all my nails out that day

Codyr

[Anonymous]

track laying , TRACKLAYING!!!! i hate tracklaying espesillay nailing the stuff but i found that sticky roadbed stuff its perfect chucked all my nails out that day

Codyr