railandsailI was just going to ask about cans on the curves
One caveat there, Brian - My curves are 30" radius and larger. I'm not sure the cans will work on much tighter curves, but I think they will.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
Track, caulk, masonite........Moosehead works best.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
When building my helix: http://onewolf.org/Album/LayoutConstruction/2016/index.html#P5081682.JPG
The track is leftover Peco code 100.
I used DAP Dynaflex 230 for gluing down most of the track, except 6" +- where the track was going to be double gapped for occupancy zone purposes. In the area 6"+- double gaps I used DAP 3.0 Window/Door sealant which is thicker/stronger than the Dynaflex 230 (which is thicker/stronger the Alex+ clear which I used for all the other track on the layout). I used FastTrack 37.5" and 40" Sweepsticks to ensure true curves and then laid soda cans to weigh down the track. No problem with the track moving after laying/weighing down. I soldered 4 sections of track together before laying/gluing each 4 track section.
Modeling an HO gauge freelance version of the Union Pacific Oregon Short Line and the Utah Railway around 1957 in a world where Pirates from the Great Salt Lake founded Ogden, UT.
- Photo album of layout construction -
I was just going to ask about cans on the curves
PruittThe cans work fine on curves, too.
Brian
My Layout Plan
Interesting new Plan Consideration
carl425 I used E6000 to hold the track down in my last helix. It goes down clear so you can see your center line, and allows enough working time so you can get it lined up. Then when you press it down, it'll stay put. I used prescription bottles filled with lead shot to hold the track down while it dried. The instructions tell you to use it like contact cement, but I put it on the plywood and then put the track down on top of it. The track will not be reusable if you later decide to take it up. But... You'll need to do some testing because you have to worry if it sticks to the paint you used. I think the paint to hardboard bond will likely be the weakest link. You may need to go mechanical. If so, a lot of guys have used #4 wood screws with washers to hold down the track. If the hardboard won't hold screws, you could put a nut on the underside if it doesn't affect your clearance. Be sure to use a little loctite. It might help on the wood screws too.
I used E6000 to hold the track down in my last helix.
It goes down clear so you can see your center line, and allows enough working time so you can get it lined up. Then when you press it down, it'll stay put. I used prescription bottles filled with lead shot to hold the track down while it dried.
The instructions tell you to use it like contact cement, but I put it on the plywood and then put the track down on top of it. The track will not be reusable if you later decide to take it up.
But... You'll need to do some testing because you have to worry if it sticks to the paint you used. I think the paint to hardboard bond will likely be the weakest link.
You may need to go mechanical. If so, a lot of guys have used #4 wood screws with washers to hold down the track. If the hardboard won't hold screws, you could put a nut on the underside if it doesn't affect your clearance. Be sure to use a little loctite. It might help on the wood screws too.
I looked that E6000 up on amazon, and it does appear to have some good reviews. I did find one interesting negative, "And I'll add that "this adhesive glues just about everything I've thrown at it". I say "just about" because I found it won't adhere to PVC plumbing pipe or the fittings"
I did a number of little experiments with some old sections of Atlas brass tracks yesterday and several different glues I had around. I'll report on that later today when I get around to inspecting them.I am also contemplating some small screws ever so often along the circle. I have some sample #4 I picked up to experiment with attachment to my alum bridge decks between the helix and main shed.
For my helix into cork and plywood, I used small flathead nails through the holes in the center of the ties. Depending on how well supported your masonite is, this could be easy or very difficult to do (springiness between supports under the masonite can make driving a nail very difficult. Holding a small sledge hammer or other hard weight under the nailing point will help tremendously).
Nowadays I use Dap caulk for almost all track installation. I add soda or beer or soup cans to hold the track down after sticking it in the caulk and final adjusting it, until the caulk cures, like this:
The cans work fine on curves, too.
Hi Brian,
Why not just use short flat head screws? I have seen several helices where the track was simply screwed down every few inches. The screws are installed between the ties as opposed to through a tie so in effect they are holding down two ties. The screw heads apparently don't cause any problems even though they stick up above the ties. Your equipment will have to be properly tuned of course, with no low hanging coupler pins or snow plows, but you are going to do that anyhow to make sure that they clear turnout frogs etc.
I'm assuming that you haven't assembled the helix roadbed yet and that you will have enough clearance to install the screws as you build the helix.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I know this is not code 100, but this method worked 100% perfect.
.
Years ago I helped a friend build an N scale layout with a helix to staging.
We used Kato Unitrack for all the hidden trackage. We did not glue any of it in place, but instead glued 5/16" wooden cubes to the subroadbed to act as holders. We ran electrical feeders every 180 degrees.
The operation was flawless, and if it ever would have developed a problem, it would have been simple to replace pieces of Kato Unitrack.
There was no chance of kinks or weird changes in radius. Everything was bullet-proof and perfect.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
All of what you mention above is why I like good old latex caulk, although, I've never built a helix, it is still track laying, and the flexibility of caulk, as it cures, allows plenty of time to make adjustmenst as you go.
Mike.
My You Tube
I'm finally ready to lay some track in my helix structure, ....Atlas CODE 100 flex track. Looking for a few hints/suggestions.
I'll be attaching the Atlas track to my reinforced and painted/weather-proofed masonite roadbed. It will be a double radius installation of 32" & 29".
Naturally I will be starting at the lowest level, and working my way upward so as to have the best/clear access to the tracks. Probably be able to do a full half circle at a each shot.
I'm still debating with myself on what adhesive I will use, and how it might be applied. What do i mean by this? There are any number of adhesives that can glue the track to the masonite, but some are instant contact, and some take longer to dry.
Those that take longer to dry allow one to readjust the track to get that ideal circular shape, but then you must secure them in multiple locations, and for a considerable time to allow for a cure,...and these are circular flex track that wants to return to a 'relaxed straight condition'. I have considered using hot melt glue to tack the track down into its basic shape, then apply some sort of 'flowing adhesive' to finish the job? Remember the masonite hardboard will not accept 'tacks/nails'.
I might be able to weight the track into its position with the longer term adhesive, but I get a slight uneasiness about it maintaining its ideal circular shape with no 'temporary tacking'
The instantaneous glues concern me about placing the track down in its circular form exactly correct the first time.
hints & suggestions entertained