cmrproductsAND now that I have stated this - this note will disappear as I have violated one of this forums rules!
Since there are literally dozens of past threads that still exist on this forum that describe using metal polish on track in some way, that seems unlikely. Some past threads have been locked when they descended into argumentative chaos between users, but that happens on every topic, unfortunately.
Not to mention the January 2003 article in Model Railroader itself describing the use of metal polish for cleaning track -- which I think predates all the "gleaming" threads on the forum.
The "no ads/no coverage" conspiracy theory is very popular, but it seems to me that it never stands up to thoughtful examination.
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
If you’re inferring that this magazine will lock-up this thread; or, delete your post, because you have an outside view of how to clean and maintain the track on your layout, I would be very disappointed by an action such as this! That is certainly not what these forums are about!
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
NP2626 I was able to find the Gleaning Process description that Jeffrey-Wemberly quoted in his note about this back in 2012. Here is that note: I don't think this is likely the full story on this process; but, it seems a good start!
I was able to find the Gleaning Process description that Jeffrey-Wemberly quoted in his note about this back in 2012. Here is that note:
NP2626
I feel that you are trying to read more into the process than is necessary.
It isn't that hard and neither is the plain Metal Polish process.
This may be what the rest of those that are so skeptical about the Metal Polish.
THEY must feel that it is too simple to work.
I felt that way too as I was told forever that the only way to clean track was rub the rails with something (track block - rags - cleaning cars, etc).
This is what all the Model mags told us
WHY?
Because telling them that Metal Polish might work - NO ONE was purchasing ads for the cleaning cars in the mags using this metal polish process.
AND now that I have stated this - this note will disappear as I have violated one of this forums rules! If not I will be surprised.
Enought said!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
My decision to "Gleam" my rails was heavily influenced by Jeffrey Wimberly's July 23, 2008 "Gleam" post in which he quoted Semafore's "Gleaming" process. I kinda figured that if Jeffrey went to the trouble and it worked for him it was worth a try. I have to say that it helped, so too going over to all metal wheelsets.
Deviated from Semafore's method by starting with 600 paper, then 1500 before the burnishing. Wiped the rail down between each operation. Glued a 316SS washer to a piece of wood to make the burnishing go a bit easier on the fingers. Certainly easier to "Gleam" before structure, scenery and details are in place.
I agree with Eaglescout as to there being many variables to layout location and environment vs track cleaning. My layout shares a two car garage with the family automobile and I've done a lot to combat the dust and dirt. All the improvements helped, but I've yet to find the "magic bullet" of keeping track clean.
regards, Peter
The online mag had a story on track cleanign where different methods were evaulated. The topic of polishing or gleaming came up in one of the Yahoo groups the other day, and the author of the article responded that he didn't bother trying the gleaming method because it seemed like too much work <insert picture of Captain Picard facepalming here> . I want to reply to that with basically, that's the point, A bit more work up front and you never have to do it again! At least, not for several years. I'm building a much bigger layout this time, so we chall see how it works, but I have a few pieces of flex I pulled out to do some noise tests (yeah, I think I started that thred 3 years ago now - finally getting around to it), and it has been sitting in the old train room for a few years, then in my basement since I moved here in may. Just hooked some clip leads to the rails and to my power pack and trains ran back and forth just fine. It's not been kep in a drawer or in a box, it was laying on the top of the old layout back in a corner, and since moving it has been sitting on top of my roller drawers, not protected in any way from junk falling on it when the ceiling tiles around that area were removed, or when several holes were drilled right next to the location of the track to run a new gas line and a couple of new electrical lines. So it's certainly had a good amount of dust settle on it - I didn;t wipe it off or anything, just ran the locos. Heat is hot water baseboard, so no forced air circulation blowing junk around, and I don't smoke, never have, and no one is permitted to smoke in my house, if you're a smoker, step outside to light up, please. So I'm sure that helps keeping things clean.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Topics on track cleaning always pop-up and sooner; or, later, someone will chime-in with I gleamed my tracks in 1872 and haven’t had to touch them since. So I think it’s a good idea to allow these people the opportunity to espouse their opinions now and again. I still wonder if Gleaming is such a good idea, why it is not more excepted?
There is a good explaination from jeffrey-wimberly in this thread:
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/212742.aspx
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
I also wonder why the "Gleaming" process does not seem to be talked about much in the Model Railroading press; or, why videos of the process being done aren’t very prevalent. Thanks!
The variables in any track cleaning are: original condition of track, climate conditions in your part of the country, immediate conditions in your train room (AC & heat, closed or open to outside environment, etc) and quality of the initial cleaning effort.
Gleaming seeks to mitigate as many of these factors as possible. No cleaning process eliminates future dust from the track which will accumulate to a greater or lesser degree depending on room conditions.
Gleaming took me several hours for 400 feet of track but I still run my masonite drag car daily and an alcohol pad after long periods of no activity. In a humid south Texas environment with only periodic heating and cooling in my train building I have had no interruption of service due to dirty track for two years. I might add, I run straight DC. Running DCC or different conditions and your results may vary.
I was scheptical about the Metal Polish process and this was LONG before the Gleaming Process was developed!
With the Metal Polish, for me, it eliminated having to do ANY track cleaning - rubbing with a Track Block etc for the past 10 plus years!
But then again - I have over 4000 feet of track to clean and it is NOT something I could do in a couple of hours.
It took me 2 full days to just do 2800 feet of track the first time I Polished the track.
As I would add more track - I would Metal Polish that new track before that went into regular service.
That Process eliminated me from having to do any additional track cleaning before any of my Operations Sessions.
Now, I hold these sessions every 2 weeks and this alone probably contribitutes to eliminating the NEED to clean any track!
I can see those with a lot less track that the amount of time it would take to hand rub all of their track is not that big of a deal.
But those that won't even consider trying the Metal Polish method is what I don't understand. Appeariently everyone is happy doing the cleaning car thing.
YET! we end up with these threads every month or so and the gist I am getting is that No ONE is happy doing track cleaing - YET - few are willing to try a different method but are the first to purchase a NEW CLEANING CAR.
I did the gleaming on my 5' x 10' HO layout. I have not got the near perfect result that some report but I would do it again. I run one masonite pad John Allen boxcar routinely in a train. When something starts acting up, around every 3 months, I clean the track with a CMX car (using denatured alcohol) and also clean the loco wheels by spinning over a piece of alcohol wet paper towel. And most rolling stock wheels are metal, which many believe helps reduce gunk accumulation on the layout.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
I never did the whole process, with metal polish and all. But I did burnish my rail heads with the back side of my hardened wire cutters (large pair I bought for the express purpose of cutting music wire for turnouts, fully expecting them to get nicked and so forth - but saving my regular wire cutters and track cutters from being damaged). It seemed to work as well as the full blown 'gleaming' process, in that I could go for weeks between running trains and not have to clean the track first.
I also wonder why if “Gleaming” is such a good idea, it isn’t discussed more here on this forum, in the Model Railroading Press and why I’ve never seen the process described in video form? I’m skeptical; but, I’m not stupid and if “Gleaming” was shown to be of benefit to me, I would likely go to the trouble of doing it.