Gleamed my track in 2007 and still going strong. Do run a masonite pad on a couple box cars to pick up oxidation. Little used sidings do require a wipe down every now and then.
I read Running Bear's post back in 2012 and I thought, I had nothing to loose; I couldn't keep my locos running more than 5 feet at a time without stalling, so I gleaned my N & NW before it went into storage and I gleaned the patio layout after I laid all the track. The only thing I did differently was I used 800 wet / dry sandpaper before I burnished the rails with the stainless washer.
When the N & NW finally came out of storage after 2 years, I didn't have to do anything to it and everything ran just fine. I also figured out that the plastic wheels accumulated dirt and redeposited it as they rolled along, so I changed all my rolling stock wheels to metal.
After 3 years, I just give the rails a quick wipe down with a piece of old t-shirt on either layout and I'm good to go; no scrubbing with a Bright Boy or anything else.
Bob Berger, C.O.O. N-ovation & Northwestern R.R. My patio layout....SEE IT HERE
There's no place like ~/ ;)
And just think radio control trains would eliminate track cleaning. Almost.
As far as the surface of the stainless steel washer is concerned, if you where to take microscopic photos of the surface used to burnish the railhead on any stainless steel washer, you would find a surface as rough as any railhead shown in the photos. I should think that the surface finish needed on the washer, to provide a high degree of finish on the railhead would need to be a polished surface. Otherwise any surface rubbed with the washer can only be as good as the surface of the washer! Also, nothing in this process, up to the burnishing process, will protect the railhead's surface against tarnish, which I think is probably the biggest problem causing a lack of continuity between the wheels and railhead!
I have always been sceptical of the espoused benefits of "Gleaming Rail". Although I started this thread, I have pretty much convinced myself the process lacks merit.
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
For clarity sake, parts made with the stamping process have two edges rollover and breakage. The breakage edge will have some burr and would scratch the heck out of your soft rail head, so use the rollover edge. I've never seen a stainless steel washer with a plastic part as you've suggested, Selector. Can you explain?
The rounded side of the washer has sloped edges which act as cams running over sharp edges and plastic spacers of the kind found in DCC-friendly frogs. Best to use that beveled edge side-down when forcibly scrubbing the various surfaces and edges with a metal washer of almost any material...I would think. The other face of the washer has that stamped tooled edge that won't do much good if it is always catching on guard rail ends or something else.
Metro Red Line said:
"Can you do a pic of rail cleaned with a Bright Boy?"
I don't have a bright boy so I can't do that comparison.
NP2626 said:
"Why has a Stainless Steel washer been chosen as a burnishing tool?"
Only reason is that is the tool mentioned earlier in this post (and others) about how to do the process. I figured you would want soft metal to "fill in" the scratches, but I think most others say you want a hard metal to "knock down the ridges."
richhotrain said:
"So, what is the best advice regarding Gleaming? Gleam your flex track before you ever lay it down on the roadbed for the first time?"
I don't see a need for that; it's already smooth. I guess you could polish it, but most are likely to foul the rails in some way while doing scenery or ballasting, etc. After fouling the rails, the gleaming and polishing method seems to do a good job at restoring it to an almost new condition.
On another thread about this topic, TomikawaTT (Chuck) said "Use the CONVEX flat side of the washer. Washers are punched out, so one side is bulged out and the other is dished. the bulged side burnishes. the dished side has sharp edges that can scratch the railhead, putting you back to square one."
This makes sense. I could feel a difference between the two sides of the washer and I flipped it back and forth, not knowing which was better. I may try to take some more photos after making sure to use the convex side of the washer and see if it has a greater effect.
So, what is the best advice regarding Gleaming?
Gleam your flex track before you ever lay it down on the roadbed for the first time?
Rich
Alton Junction
Why has a Stainless Steel washer been chosen as a burnishing tool? Any imperfections in the surface of the washer will transfer scratches to the railhead. Stainless steel is not automatically supplied in a polished surface finish. Since almost any metal will be harder than Nickel Silver rail, wouldn’t it make sense to apply a finish to the burnishing tool first and maybe hardened tool steel would be a better choice?
Carnegie Falls I didn't do any extra buffing after the metal polish step, but here are some photos that might help us visualize the process. They are taken with a small handheld mangifier/microscope. After plaster, paint, ballast, etc., 400, then 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper:
I didn't do any extra buffing after the metal polish step, but here are some photos that might help us visualize the process. They are taken with a small handheld mangifier/microscope.
After plaster, paint, ballast, etc., 400, then 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper:
Can you do a pic of rail cleaned with a Bright Boy? I've extolled the virtues of gleaming in this model railroading group on Facebook and one person thinks the microscopic scratches are an "ubran legend."
Thanks for the photos carnegie falls. When I first read of the gleaming process, I really did not get the burnishing step. I do a lot of metallurgical microgrinding and polishing of samples (and electrodes) for my research. We follow specific recipies for making metals mirror smooth down to sub micrometer levels for microscopic observation.
We would never knock down scratches with another metal but your photos show some effect. We typically progress microgrinding with finer and finer papers. Then polish something like 10, then 1, then .1 micrometer alumina (or diamond) polish (each material is different sorry I dont have specifics).
5 micrometer alumina might be good enough for model rail. Perhaps use a tight weave felt for the polish. Each time you go finer, wipe the previous step particles clean from the rail. Use a dedicated felt for each size of alumina if you go all out and progress finer. Basically the size of the alumina polish particles will be the size of your scratches.
I buy my consumables from Buehler and Struers but those are science companies. Google may produce a cheaper alternative.
Maybe one of these days we'll do a metallurgical rail polishing study. Submit the paper to MR LOL.
Brand new Atlas flex track out of the box:
After burnishing with stainless steel washer:
After applying metal polish:
Carnegie Falls NP2626 5] Last, buff the rails to your eye's content! Is everyone/anyone doing the buffing step in addition to metal polish? Is it that important? I don't care how shiny it is, but I do care about reducing recurring cleaning/maintenance. If anyone does this, can you provide more info on what you use and how you do it? Thanks
NP2626 5] Last, buff the rails to your eye's content!
Is everyone/anyone doing the buffing step in addition to metal polish? Is it that important? I don't care how shiny it is, but I do care about reducing recurring cleaning/maintenance. If anyone does this, can you provide more info on what you use and how you do it?
Thanks
I used a piece of cork roadbed. It slides easier when you are done . You can feel it.
Since doing the entire layout in the GLEAM method, I only use a brite boy/washer/cork procedure when cleaning up scenery slop-over. Seems just as good. I ,too believe the washer is the key.Whenever I use a brite boy I follow it with the washer/cork.
Hope that helps. It's easier than you think.
Terry in NW Wisconsin
Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel
rrinker Given that I did the burnishng step but never touched any metal polish - my take is it is the burnishing that is the most important, as this will close most of the micro cracks that gather dust and server as the seed for dirt and gunk to spread out over the rest of the railhead in the area. --Randy
Given that I did the burnishng step but never touched any metal polish - my take is it is the burnishing that is the most important, as this will close most of the micro cracks that gather dust and server as the seed for dirt and gunk to spread out over the rest of the railhead in the area.
--Randy
I have to agree with Randy - The rubbing of the rails with the Stainless Steel washer or what ever is the key to the Gleaming Process as it rolls the sharp edges left from the sanding process.
There was a magnified PIC of the scratches (which might be in an old thread) showing this and the look after the washer was rubbed over the rails.
When I tried this I appeariently was not putting enough pressure on the washer as I was never able to get the super shine that some of the PICs showed.
Although I had tried the Gleaming process back then (when it was first mentioned) as an experiement as the Metal Polish was working great for me and still is.
BOB H - Clarion, PA
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Steven Otte Want to know why we don't print articles about "track gleaming"? Nobody submits them. It's that simple.
Want to know why we don't print articles about "track gleaming"?
Nobody submits them.
It's that simple.
Painting steam locomotives with stove polish DID scare off Floquil though!
I'm sure you heard that one long ago as an employee.
carl425 It is amazing how often the "suck up to the advertisers" conspiracy theory comes up. My basic understanding of the publishing business tells me the most important thing to the advertisers is circulation - which is improved by publishing more articles people want to read.
It is amazing how often the "suck up to the advertisers" conspiracy theory comes up. My basic understanding of the publishing business tells me the most important thing to the advertisers is circulation - which is improved by publishing more articles people want to read.
I personally find it hilarious when people accuse us of kiboshing stories on rail gleaming because we're in the pocket of the "Big Track-Cleaning Car" industry. How many column-inches of ads for track cleaning cars do we run, again? On the other hand, all those stories we run about making trees from backyard weeds or rocks from tree bark don't seem to have scared off JTT Tree, Woodland Scenics, or Scenic Express. Hmmm...
--Steven Otte, Model Railroader senior associate editorsotte@kalmbach.com
Speaking of Keep-Alive Decoders (and taking this way off topic) I have installed a couple of them in my DCC engines for entirely different reasons than dirty track -
BUT - It is interesting in my testing with the Keep-Alives - is picking up a running engine off the tracks and watch the wheels keep on turning for a full 20 seconds!
And then to top it all off the LED lights were on for another 10 to 15 seconds more!
Nothing real special about this - it is just interesting in how long the standard engines will run (non Sound) with these Keep-Alives!
farrellaaI think this topic will continue to come up on this forum as modellers keep wondering what to do about dirty track?
I think that as the use of Keep-Alive decoders becomes more pervasive fewer of us will worry so much about perfectly clean track.
Steven OtteWant to know why we don't print articles about "track gleaming"? Nobody submits them.
You mean that when we hear hoofbeats we shouldn't assume zebras?
It is amazing how often the "suck up to the advertisers" conspiracy theory comes up. My basic understanding of the publishing business tells me the most important thing to the advertisers is circulation - which is improved by publishing more articles people want to read. The fact that no advertiser sells a "gleaming kit" is hardly worthy of consideration when deciding if such an article would be published. And BTW, what else can we learn from the fact that nobody sells a "gleaming kit"?
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
cmrproductsThis may be what the rest of those that are so skeptical about the Metal Polish. THEY must feel that it is too simple to work. I felt that way too as I was told forever that the only way to clean track was rub the rails with something (track block - rags - cleaning cars, etc).
I think the answer to the question of 'why doesn't everyone do this if it works so well?' is like the old saying"you can fool some of the people all of the time, all of the people some of the time but you can't fool all of the people all of the time!" This is not to imply that we are trying to 'fool' everyone into trying this method, but to 'encourage' them to give it a try. Those who do use the polish or gleam/polish method are so happy with the results they try to let others know about it. Track cleaning is like preparing a surface for paint; the more you do in the beginning the better the final results. But, even knowing this, many of us just don't take the time to do it right.
I think this topic will continue to come up on this forum as modellers keep wondering what to do about dirty track? Just my thoughts.
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
As much as I think it would be an interesting experiment to gleam a section of track one place and polish the rail heads in another, when I consider how little work it takes me to get my layout up and running in the fall after it has sat idle for 5-6 months. I have a hard time feeling the effort to be worthwhile. It would be interesting to hear results from others who have done this experment.
I guess the success of the gleaming process also depends on the metal polish used and the location of the layout. I did the whole gleaming process on my 10' by 19' double decked layout and used Mothers metal polish. The immediate results were just as promised by others. However, my layout is located in my garage in Southern California where it tends to see a lot of dust (even with finished walls/ceiling and a weather stripped sectional garage door). The dust seems to cling to the polished rail heads and requires periodic burnishing with a dry cloth to return it to its post gleaming condition. Since polishing the rails, I have found that wiping them clean with alcohol no longer works as a non-conductive residue forms as the alcohol dries. I suspect this is some type of noncompatibility problem between the Mothers polish and the alcohol. Random stubborn spots have also appeared but burnishing with a dry cloth usually cleans these up. I do have one particular yard ladder that seems to gum up no matter how many times I gleam and/or re-polish this section. It is exposed to the same environmental conditions as the remainder of the layout but will not stay clean. Fortunately, my two helix structures remain clean the longest. Probably due to the additional wheel slip of the locomotives pulling cars up the grade.
Hornblower