I also wonder why if “Gleaming” is such a good idea, it isn’t discussed more here on this forum, in the Model Railroading Press and why I’ve never seen the process described in video form? I’m skeptical; but, I’m not stupid and if “Gleaming” was shown to be of benefit to me, I would likely go to the trouble of doing it.
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
I never did the whole process, with metal polish and all. But I did burnish my rail heads with the back side of my hardened wire cutters (large pair I bought for the express purpose of cutting music wire for turnouts, fully expecting them to get nicked and so forth - but saving my regular wire cutters and track cutters from being damaged). It seemed to work as well as the full blown 'gleaming' process, in that I could go for weeks between running trains and not have to clean the track first.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I did the gleaming on my 5' x 10' HO layout. I have not got the near perfect result that some report but I would do it again. I run one masonite pad John Allen boxcar routinely in a train. When something starts acting up, around every 3 months, I clean the track with a CMX car (using denatured alcohol) and also clean the loco wheels by spinning over a piece of alcohol wet paper towel. And most rolling stock wheels are metal, which many believe helps reduce gunk accumulation on the layout.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
I was scheptical about the Metal Polish process and this was LONG before the Gleaming Process was developed!
With the Metal Polish, for me, it eliminated having to do ANY track cleaning - rubbing with a Track Block etc for the past 10 plus years!
But then again - I have over 4000 feet of track to clean and it is NOT something I could do in a couple of hours.
It took me 2 full days to just do 2800 feet of track the first time I Polished the track.
As I would add more track - I would Metal Polish that new track before that went into regular service.
That Process eliminated me from having to do any additional track cleaning before any of my Operations Sessions.
Now, I hold these sessions every 2 weeks and this alone probably contribitutes to eliminating the NEED to clean any track!
I can see those with a lot less track that the amount of time it would take to hand rub all of their track is not that big of a deal.
But those that won't even consider trying the Metal Polish method is what I don't understand. Appeariently everyone is happy doing the cleaning car thing.
YET! we end up with these threads every month or so and the gist I am getting is that No ONE is happy doing track cleaing - YET - few are willing to try a different method but are the first to purchase a NEW CLEANING CAR.
BOB H - Clarion, PA
The variables in any track cleaning are: original condition of track, climate conditions in your part of the country, immediate conditions in your train room (AC & heat, closed or open to outside environment, etc) and quality of the initial cleaning effort.
Gleaming seeks to mitigate as many of these factors as possible. No cleaning process eliminates future dust from the track which will accumulate to a greater or lesser degree depending on room conditions.
Gleaming took me several hours for 400 feet of track but I still run my masonite drag car daily and an alcohol pad after long periods of no activity. In a humid south Texas environment with only periodic heating and cooling in my train building I have had no interruption of service due to dirty track for two years. I might add, I run straight DC. Running DCC or different conditions and your results may vary.
I also wonder why the "Gleaming" process does not seem to be talked about much in the Model Railroading press; or, why videos of the process being done aren’t very prevalent. Thanks!
There is a good explaination from jeffrey-wimberly in this thread:
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/212742.aspx
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
Topics on track cleaning always pop-up and sooner; or, later, someone will chime-in with I gleamed my tracks in 1872 and haven’t had to touch them since. So I think it’s a good idea to allow these people the opportunity to espouse their opinions now and again. I still wonder if Gleaming is such a good idea, why it is not more excepted?
The online mag had a story on track cleanign where different methods were evaulated. The topic of polishing or gleaming came up in one of the Yahoo groups the other day, and the author of the article responded that he didn't bother trying the gleaming method because it seemed like too much work <insert picture of Captain Picard facepalming here> . I want to reply to that with basically, that's the point, A bit more work up front and you never have to do it again! At least, not for several years. I'm building a much bigger layout this time, so we chall see how it works, but I have a few pieces of flex I pulled out to do some noise tests (yeah, I think I started that thred 3 years ago now - finally getting around to it), and it has been sitting in the old train room for a few years, then in my basement since I moved here in may. Just hooked some clip leads to the rails and to my power pack and trains ran back and forth just fine. It's not been kep in a drawer or in a box, it was laying on the top of the old layout back in a corner, and since moving it has been sitting on top of my roller drawers, not protected in any way from junk falling on it when the ceiling tiles around that area were removed, or when several holes were drilled right next to the location of the track to run a new gas line and a couple of new electrical lines. So it's certainly had a good amount of dust settle on it - I didn;t wipe it off or anything, just ran the locos. Heat is hot water baseboard, so no forced air circulation blowing junk around, and I don't smoke, never have, and no one is permitted to smoke in my house, if you're a smoker, step outside to light up, please. So I'm sure that helps keeping things clean.
My decision to "Gleam" my rails was heavily influenced by Jeffrey Wimberly's July 23, 2008 "Gleam" post in which he quoted Semafore's "Gleaming" process. I kinda figured that if Jeffrey went to the trouble and it worked for him it was worth a try. I have to say that it helped, so too going over to all metal wheelsets.
Deviated from Semafore's method by starting with 600 paper, then 1500 before the burnishing. Wiped the rail down between each operation. Glued a 316SS washer to a piece of wood to make the burnishing go a bit easier on the fingers. Certainly easier to "Gleam" before structure, scenery and details are in place.
I agree with Eaglescout as to there being many variables to layout location and environment vs track cleaning. My layout shares a two car garage with the family automobile and I've done a lot to combat the dust and dirt. All the improvements helped, but I've yet to find the "magic bullet" of keeping track clean.
regards, Peter
I was able to find the Gleaning Process description that Jeffrey-Wemberly quoted in his note about this back in 2012. Here is that note:
NP2626 I was able to find the Gleaning Process description that Jeffrey-Wemberly quoted in his note about this back in 2012. Here is that note: I don't think this is likely the full story on this process; but, it seems a good start!
NP2626
I feel that you are trying to read more into the process than is necessary.
It isn't that hard and neither is the plain Metal Polish process.
This may be what the rest of those that are so skeptical about the Metal Polish.
THEY must feel that it is too simple to work.
I felt that way too as I was told forever that the only way to clean track was rub the rails with something (track block - rags - cleaning cars, etc).
This is what all the Model mags told us
WHY?
Because telling them that Metal Polish might work - NO ONE was purchasing ads for the cleaning cars in the mags using this metal polish process.
AND now that I have stated this - this note will disappear as I have violated one of this forums rules! If not I will be surprised.
Enought said!
If you’re inferring that this magazine will lock-up this thread; or, delete your post, because you have an outside view of how to clean and maintain the track on your layout, I would be very disappointed by an action such as this! That is certainly not what these forums are about!
cmrproductsAND now that I have stated this - this note will disappear as I have violated one of this forums rules!
Since there are literally dozens of past threads that still exist on this forum that describe using metal polish on track in some way, that seems unlikely. Some past threads have been locked when they descended into argumentative chaos between users, but that happens on every topic, unfortunately.
Not to mention the January 2003 article in Model Railroader itself describing the use of metal polish for cleaning track -- which I think predates all the "gleaming" threads on the forum.
The "no ads/no coverage" conspiracy theory is very popular, but it seems to me that it never stands up to thoughtful examination.
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
I guess the success of the gleaming process also depends on the metal polish used and the location of the layout. I did the whole gleaming process on my 10' by 19' double decked layout and used Mothers metal polish. The immediate results were just as promised by others. However, my layout is located in my garage in Southern California where it tends to see a lot of dust (even with finished walls/ceiling and a weather stripped sectional garage door). The dust seems to cling to the polished rail heads and requires periodic burnishing with a dry cloth to return it to its post gleaming condition. Since polishing the rails, I have found that wiping them clean with alcohol no longer works as a non-conductive residue forms as the alcohol dries. I suspect this is some type of noncompatibility problem between the Mothers polish and the alcohol. Random stubborn spots have also appeared but burnishing with a dry cloth usually cleans these up. I do have one particular yard ladder that seems to gum up no matter how many times I gleam and/or re-polish this section. It is exposed to the same environmental conditions as the remainder of the layout but will not stay clean. Fortunately, my two helix structures remain clean the longest. Probably due to the additional wheel slip of the locomotives pulling cars up the grade.
Hornblower
As much as I think it would be an interesting experiment to gleam a section of track one place and polish the rail heads in another, when I consider how little work it takes me to get my layout up and running in the fall after it has sat idle for 5-6 months. I have a hard time feeling the effort to be worthwhile. It would be interesting to hear results from others who have done this experment.
cmrproductsThis may be what the rest of those that are so skeptical about the Metal Polish. THEY must feel that it is too simple to work. I felt that way too as I was told forever that the only way to clean track was rub the rails with something (track block - rags - cleaning cars, etc).
I think the answer to the question of 'why doesn't everyone do this if it works so well?' is like the old saying"you can fool some of the people all of the time, all of the people some of the time but you can't fool all of the people all of the time!" This is not to imply that we are trying to 'fool' everyone into trying this method, but to 'encourage' them to give it a try. Those who do use the polish or gleam/polish method are so happy with the results they try to let others know about it. Track cleaning is like preparing a surface for paint; the more you do in the beginning the better the final results. But, even knowing this, many of us just don't take the time to do it right.
I think this topic will continue to come up on this forum as modellers keep wondering what to do about dirty track? Just my thoughts.
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
Want to know why we don't print articles about "track gleaming"?
Nobody submits them.
It's that simple.
--Steven Otte, Model Railroader senior associate editorsotte@kalmbach.com
farrellaaI think this topic will continue to come up on this forum as modellers keep wondering what to do about dirty track?
I think that as the use of Keep-Alive decoders becomes more pervasive fewer of us will worry so much about perfectly clean track.
Steven OtteWant to know why we don't print articles about "track gleaming"? Nobody submits them.
You mean that when we hear hoofbeats we shouldn't assume zebras?
It is amazing how often the "suck up to the advertisers" conspiracy theory comes up. My basic understanding of the publishing business tells me the most important thing to the advertisers is circulation - which is improved by publishing more articles people want to read. The fact that no advertiser sells a "gleaming kit" is hardly worthy of consideration when deciding if such an article would be published. And BTW, what else can we learn from the fact that nobody sells a "gleaming kit"?
Speaking of Keep-Alive Decoders (and taking this way off topic) I have installed a couple of them in my DCC engines for entirely different reasons than dirty track -
BUT - It is interesting in my testing with the Keep-Alives - is picking up a running engine off the tracks and watch the wheels keep on turning for a full 20 seconds!
And then to top it all off the LED lights were on for another 10 to 15 seconds more!
Nothing real special about this - it is just interesting in how long the standard engines will run (non Sound) with these Keep-Alives!
carl425 It is amazing how often the "suck up to the advertisers" conspiracy theory comes up. My basic understanding of the publishing business tells me the most important thing to the advertisers is circulation - which is improved by publishing more articles people want to read.
It is amazing how often the "suck up to the advertisers" conspiracy theory comes up. My basic understanding of the publishing business tells me the most important thing to the advertisers is circulation - which is improved by publishing more articles people want to read.
I personally find it hilarious when people accuse us of kiboshing stories on rail gleaming because we're in the pocket of the "Big Track-Cleaning Car" industry. How many column-inches of ads for track cleaning cars do we run, again? On the other hand, all those stories we run about making trees from backyard weeds or rocks from tree bark don't seem to have scared off JTT Tree, Woodland Scenics, or Scenic Express. Hmmm...
Painting steam locomotives with stove polish DID scare off Floquil though!
I'm sure you heard that one long ago as an employee.
Steven Otte Want to know why we don't print articles about "track gleaming"? Nobody submits them. It's that simple.
NP2626 5] Last, buff the rails to your eye's content!
Is everyone/anyone doing the buffing step in addition to metal polish? Is it that important? I don't care how shiny it is, but I do care about reducing recurring cleaning/maintenance. If anyone does this, can you provide more info on what you use and how you do it?
Thanks
Given that I did the burnishng step but never touched any metal polish - my take is it is the burnishing that is the most important, as this will close most of the micro cracks that gather dust and server as the seed for dirt and gunk to spread out over the rest of the railhead in the area.
rrinker Given that I did the burnishng step but never touched any metal polish - my take is it is the burnishing that is the most important, as this will close most of the micro cracks that gather dust and server as the seed for dirt and gunk to spread out over the rest of the railhead in the area. --Randy
I have to agree with Randy - The rubbing of the rails with the Stainless Steel washer or what ever is the key to the Gleaming Process as it rolls the sharp edges left from the sanding process.
There was a magnified PIC of the scratches (which might be in an old thread) showing this and the look after the washer was rubbed over the rails.
When I tried this I appeariently was not putting enough pressure on the washer as I was never able to get the super shine that some of the PICs showed.
Although I had tried the Gleaming process back then (when it was first mentioned) as an experiement as the Metal Polish was working great for me and still is.
Carnegie Falls NP2626 5] Last, buff the rails to your eye's content! Is everyone/anyone doing the buffing step in addition to metal polish? Is it that important? I don't care how shiny it is, but I do care about reducing recurring cleaning/maintenance. If anyone does this, can you provide more info on what you use and how you do it? Thanks
I used a piece of cork roadbed. It slides easier when you are done . You can feel it.
Since doing the entire layout in the GLEAM method, I only use a brite boy/washer/cork procedure when cleaning up scenery slop-over. Seems just as good. I ,too believe the washer is the key.Whenever I use a brite boy I follow it with the washer/cork.
Hope that helps. It's easier than you think.
Terry in NW Wisconsin
Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel
I didn't do any extra buffing after the metal polish step, but here are some photos that might help us visualize the process. They are taken with a small handheld mangifier/microscope.
Brand new Atlas flex track out of the box:
After plaster, paint, ballast, etc., 400, then 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper:
After burnishing with stainless steel washer:
After applying metal polish:
Thanks for the photos carnegie falls. When I first read of the gleaming process, I really did not get the burnishing step. I do a lot of metallurgical microgrinding and polishing of samples (and electrodes) for my research. We follow specific recipies for making metals mirror smooth down to sub micrometer levels for microscopic observation.
We would never knock down scratches with another metal but your photos show some effect. We typically progress microgrinding with finer and finer papers. Then polish something like 10, then 1, then .1 micrometer alumina (or diamond) polish (each material is different sorry I dont have specifics).
5 micrometer alumina might be good enough for model rail. Perhaps use a tight weave felt for the polish. Each time you go finer, wipe the previous step particles clean from the rail. Use a dedicated felt for each size of alumina if you go all out and progress finer. Basically the size of the alumina polish particles will be the size of your scratches.
I buy my consumables from Buehler and Struers but those are science companies. Google may produce a cheaper alternative.
Maybe one of these days we'll do a metallurgical rail polishing study. Submit the paper to MR LOL.