hominamadIs the DAP Alex Plus silicon? Is it really easy to lift if need be? If it is easy to get up without doing damage to my track, I would definitely consider using that. How long does it take to set or dry?
Alex Plus is primarily acrylic and latex. It has some silicone to maintain flexibility but not so much as to interefere with removing track. Track secured with it can be removed using a putty knife if you're careful - it bonds more securely to the roadbed than the ties. Any left on the ties can be rubbed off, especially if you soak the track in hot water.
Also, do you use that for turnouts as well?
I know many people don't secure turnouts themselves, and advice in MR seems to follow that. I still use the caulk under turnouts, at least sparingly. Turnouts are critical infrastructure and I like to keep them aligned. If you're concerned about removal, think about caulk like you do spikes and use only a small amount here and there - just enough the turnout won't budge, but not enough to risk not taking it back up later.
Rob Spangler
Is the DAP Alex Plus silicon? Is it really easy to lift if need be? If it is easy to get up without doing damage to my track, I would definitely consider using that. How long does it take to set or dry?
Also, do you use that for turnouts as well? Of course I'd need to be careful not to get any on the moving components. But at $20-$25 a pop, I definitely don't want to ruin my turnouts if I need to lift them for some reason!
I do not see what your layout surface is made of. If it is plywood, all methods would work, however, if you have a foam surface, it will not hold nails.
I used inexpensive latex cauld to hold my cork to the foam and track to cork. You only need a very thin layer to hold the track down, if it squishes up between the ties you have way too much. I have found that a putty knife between the cork and ties will lift the rails off with little or no damage. Do not use caulk under turnouts, makes it easier to replace them if necessary. The track should hold them securely enough.
I do paint the areas under where turnouts will be a color close to what my ballast is. Makes it easier to hide the cork with less actual ballast around the moving parts. There are varried opinions on painting all the cork.
Good luck,
Richard
If you have to realign the track, you will also have to realign the cork roadbed.
I put down my track in sections or phases on the top first holding it with pins as necessary. Then run a few cars through it to see if there is going to be any problems. Then I mark the centerline. After the centerline is marked and the track taken up, then the roadbed can follow the marked centerline and when the track is put down on it, you are almost assured of good alignments.
I perfer methods 2 or 3. If you use Woodland Scenics foam roadbed, you almost have to use #3.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
hominamad1) Attach track with standard nails or track tacks in the center of tie. ...Only con I can think of is that it doesn't look as realistic?
That's the con all right. Provided you're using track that doesn't already have holes down the center of the ties, I don't see recommending this method. It's no more secure than your option 2 and not much faster.
2) Use track spikes to secure the ties on the outside of the rail on both sides. I believe this requires filing or cutting away the existing plastic (fake) spikes, and then using pin vise to put hole in place and hammer down spikes. Seems like this much more realistic, but also slightly more time consuming? I would imagine that this way is also more secure than #1 since you have two spikes per tie instead of one in the middle?
What I've done is to use spikes on alternating sides of the track, spike the near side of one rail, the far side of the next, and so on. It's every bit as secure as it needs to be in most cases. Spiking both sides is fine too, and doesn't take much extra time. You can remove the cast-on spike heads, or drill adjacent to them.
Another option I've used is to spike on both sides of the rail adjacent to a tie. It's almost as secure as going through the tie and requires no drilling. The paired spikes look a lot like a rail anchor so aren't really obtrusive. They disappear after weathering and ballasting much more readily than spiking down the center.
3) Use glue, caulk, or some kind of adhesive to attach the track. This seems like a popular method, but I don't understand why. Doesn't it ruin the track if you have to lift it for some reason to adjust, etc at a future time?
This is what I currently do. I use DAP Alex Plus clear sealant (as opposed to adhesive caulk), which secures the track nicely but can be readily removed if need be for future adjustments. With this method, track really stays where it should be, and it's quite easy to get and maintain perfect alignment. There are no visible fasteners to mar the appearance.
I used method #1 on my last layout, but instead of a pin vise, I used a dremel tool. Goes a lot faster.
Dave
Just be glad you don't have to press "2" for English.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQ_ALEdDUB8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hqFS1GZL4s
http://s73.photobucket.com/user/steemtrayn/media/MovingcoalontheDCM.mp4.html?sort=3&o=27
I use nails, and it makes it a lot easier to pull up track and adjust the alignment of the track, if necessary.
After you ballast the track, you can remove the nails.
Rich
Alton Junction
I use caulk and it works great. I use push-pins to hold the track in place until the caulk dries. Very easy to adjust before it dries and easy to pull up and re-use if necessary.
I'm about to start the track-laying phase of my first, 5x9 HO layout. I'm using all Peco flex track and turnouts and standard cork roadbed. From the reading I've done, I've seen 3 basic methods of securing the track to the cork. Wanted to get some input to see which method people prefer here. If there are any other ways to do this, I'd love to hear that as well.1) Attach track with standard nails or track tacks in the center of tie. I would use a pin vise to drill holes every few ties and nail the track down that way. Seems like the main pros are that its quick and easy. Only con I can think of is that it doesn't look as realistic?2) Use track spikes to secure the ties on the outside of the rail on both sides. I believe this requires filing or cutting away the existing plastic (fake) spikes, and then using pin vise to put hole in place and hammer down spikes. Seems like this much more realistic, but also slightly more time consuming? I would imagine that this way is also more secure than #1 since you have two spikes per tie instead of one in the middle?3) Use glue, caulk, or some kind of adhesive to attach the track. This seems like a popular method, but I don't understand why. Doesn't it ruin the track if you have to lift it for some reason to adjust, etc at a future time? I am leaning towards #1 or #2, but am really curious to know why people glue the track down. Having the ability to pull out the pins and make adjustments seems like a big benefit to using spikes in some form.Looking forward to everyone's feedback!