A really great job, Rich. That's a great way to scenik a lift-out! My hat is off to you! This has been a great thread to follow!
Jerry
Very nicely done scene, Rich, and not merely the bridge itself. The approaches, abutments, the trackwork, the boat, and the water all turned out really well, too, and the whole scene fits perfectly with the rest of the layout which is visible in the background.
Wayne
Rich, simply fantastic. Love the paint scheme and the fit into the overall layout. Please keep me informed when you have switching/wiring complete. Detailed descriptions/how to's/photos on the electrical aspects would be great. I aim to shamelessly stand on your shoulders...
Bob
Rich,
Forgot to mention!!! I also like the tug boat... And I think you are correct on the size I have a ho scaletug and it looks too big.
Frank
Rich, Great job!!!! Again you have been busy. Been away for awhile. I too look forward to the video.
Take care Frank.
Very nice Rich! I enjoyed your description of the construction and the attended problems and solutions. Looking forward to the video.
Joe
I have finally completed the lift out section for the bascule bridge including the river bed, abutments, ballasting and landscaping, and the installation of bridge track. There are a few flaws yet to fix, but basically the project is done except for final wiring.
Rich
Here are some final photos of the bascule bridge on the lift out section.
Alton Junction
Great, thx, good luck, can't wait to see it.
rjstruble Got it. Pretty amazing actually. So you went with DigitalGriffin's circuit design? Any pictures or helpful hints? Thx.
Got it. Pretty amazing actually. So you went with DigitalGriffin's circuit design? Any pictures or helpful hints? Thx.
Right now, I am in the process of landscaping (river, ground cover, ballast, bridge track, etc.) the lift out section that the bascule bridge will sit on. Then, I will post some photos of the final scene.
Once that is done, I have to complete the final, permanent wiring. I do intend to incorporate Digital Griffin's dual micro switch design. Then, I will post a video of the bridge in operation.
rjstruble So the reed switch is just off/on, no reverse in polarity? What a crap design. You're supposed to figure out the raise and lower part all by yourself. wow.
So the reed switch is just off/on, no reverse in polarity? What a crap design. You're supposed to figure out the raise and lower part all by yourself. wow.
The problem with the reed switch that is included with the kit is that the reed is a flimsy piece of copper that does not perform reliably and consistently. The design is very poor.
Actually, the micro switches perform the same function as the reed switch, merely an On/Off function. It's just that the micro switch leaf design is more reliable than the reed design.
Either way, though, you need to wire up a DPDT switch to receive and tranfer power and to reverse the polarity. It is surprising though that the instructions don't comment on the need for a DPDT switch. I re-read the instructions before posting this reply, and there is no mention of how to power the motor or how to reverse polarity.
I used the hammer method so hopefully I am ok on te gears. I broke down and reassembled the gear house tonight, this time iwth proper clearances and amazingly enough it works. On to Step 3...
rjstruble On another one of your tips, you suggest gluing the gears in place to avoid slippage. Did you just use the standard modeling glue used for the plastic structures? You say put it on the sides, I was wondering if putting it on the rod and then sliding the gear over wouldn't be better. I agree overall that potential gear slippage could be an issue.
On another one of your tips, you suggest gluing the gears in place to avoid slippage. Did you just use the standard modeling glue used for the plastic structures? You say put it on the sides, I was wondering if putting it on the rod and then sliding the gear over wouldn't be better. I agree overall that potential gear slippage could be an issue.
It is not that the gear slippage "could" be an issue. It "will" be an issue. I mentioned the review of the bascule bridge in the March 1999 issue of Model Railroader magazine. In that artilce, the author prominently mentions the gear issue. He experienced many of the same problems that I did.
Here is the problem. The rod is a soft metal, it easily bends, so you have to be careful. The gears are made of Delrin plastic. The hole in the center of the gear is too small to mount on the shaft simply by trying to insert it with your fingers. The author of the magazine review article drilled a hole in a block of wood slightly larger than the rod. Then, he placed the gear over the drilled hole on the wood and hammered the rod onto the gear. I hadn't read the article until after I completed the assembly of the bridge, but that is essentially what I did as well. But, not before doing a couple of stupid things like (1) placing a drop of oil on the shaft to lubricate it to make insertion of the gear easier and (2) trying to ream the gear hole a little bigger. Those two things made the gear go on, but it also caused the gear to slip.
What you want to do is what the author did initially, and what I did eventually. Carefully hammer the gear onto the rod over a hole in a block of wood just large enough to permit the rod to pass through the gear without bending the rod.
Because I caused the gear slippage with my foolish actions, I tried to glue the gear onto the metal rod. But nothing would hold, not CA adhesive, not Ambroid Pro Weld, nothing. So, I finally resorted to JB Pro Weld 2-part epoxy which I applied on both sides of the gear around the hole in the center of the gear. That worked. You could do that as a precautionary measure even if the gear doesn't slip.
Incidentally, we are talking about the large gear that goes on the long metal rod that protrudes through the walls of the machine shed and connects to the gear boxes on both sides of the A-frame. The smaller gears that mount on the motor shaft and the small shaft between the motor shaft and the gear box shaft fit on without a problem. It is only the large gear that is an issue.
One last thing. You asked whether it would make more sense to put adhesive on the rod and slide the gear over it. I actually tried that but to no avail. One the gear is slipping on the rod, you are in trouble and it seemed that only the 2-part epoxy would "lock" the gear in place. If you follow the hammer suggestion, you should be OK.
rjstruble Thanks Rich, so I guess the included switch does all that and the new circuits proposed replicate that. I am an enginner, but it was chemical and a long tme ago, so my head is beginning to hurt.
Thanks Rich, so I guess the included switch does all that and the new circuits proposed replicate that. I am an enginner, but it was chemical and a long tme ago, so my head is beginning to hurt.
Actually, the included switch, the reed switch, is replaced by the micro switch which is more dependable. The reed switch is simply too flimsy and unreliable. Put simply, it doesn't work. After I wrote my checklist earlier in this thread, I was referred to the March 1999 issue of Model Railroader magazine in which a 2-page review of the Walthers Cornerstone Bascule Bridge was published. It is an interesting article, and it addresses the reed switch. The author had fits getting it to work.
Having said that, the reed switch is nothing more than an on/off switch. However, you still need a DPDT switch to power the motor and to reverse polarity. Curiously, the instructions never mention the need for a DPDT switch.
rjstruble Thanks Rich, very helpful. Another stupid question which I may get answers to later in the construction: How does the motor 'switch direction' to either raise or lower the bridge, or is that done mechanically somehow?
Thanks Rich, very helpful. Another stupid question which I may get answers to later in the construction: How does the motor 'switch direction' to either raise or lower the bridge, or is that done mechanically somehow?
It is done electronically by reversing polarity by means of the double pole double throw (DPDT) switch.
The DPDT switch has six contacts. Two of the outer contacts receive power from the power supply (transformer, wall wart, battery, whatever) through a pair of wires. The two center contacts feed power to the motor through another pair of wires. A third pair of wires cross from the outer contacts on one side of the DPDT switch to the outer contacts on the opposite side of the DPDT switch. In other words, that third set of wires forms an 'X' so to speak. When you flip the toggle on the DPDT switch you reverse the polarity and the motor spins in the opposite direction.
rjstruble Guys, thanks for the excellent discussion. I am building the bridge with my son. We are having great fun but it is definitely pushing the limits of our modeling skill. I printed out Rich's helpful hints and it is serving as a bible for us. Can anyone provide some more details on the switch replacement? Looking at the thing it is pretty clear that it is inadequate as everyone says. I would love a 'switch replacement for dummies' level of detail. I am a bit concerned about how the motor stops when the bridge is fully up or down. Are you all going with a fully manual approach or is there some auto ct off that can be rigged? Thanks folks.
Guys, thanks for the excellent discussion. I am building the bridge with my son. We are having great fun but it is definitely pushing the limits of our modeling skill. I printed out Rich's helpful hints and it is serving as a bible for us.
Can anyone provide some more details on the switch replacement? Looking at the thing it is pretty clear that it is inadequate as everyone says. I would love a 'switch replacement for dummies' level of detail. I am a bit concerned about how the motor stops when the bridge is fully up or down. Are you all going with a fully manual approach or is there some auto ct off that can be rigged?
Thanks folks.
rjstruble,
Welcome to the Forum and welcome to the club, of bascule bridge builders that is.
Digital Griffin, one of our fellow forum members provided me with a diagram of a setup for using micro switches in place of the reed switch. The diagram is shown earlier in this thread.
The micro switches are referred to as "leaf" switches, but I like to think of them as "pedal" switches. When the bridge strikes the leaf, it is like your foot hitting the brake pedal. The force of the bridge striking the leaf, or pedal, pushes it down, cutting power to the motor.
Digital Griffin's solution was to replace the reed switch with a pair of leaf micro switches, one to stop the bridge at the top of the lift and one to stop the bridge at the bottom of its descent.
The placement of the micro switches is the critical part. The one that stops the bridge's descent is fairly simple. Where the far end of the truss bridge meets solid ground upon completion of the descent, that is where the micro switch should be placed.
The one that stops the bridge's ascent is more challenging. My solution for the placement of that micro switch is at the bottom of the A-frame. As the bridge is raised, the counterweight moves down and inward inside the A-frame. At the top of the bridge's ascent, the counterweight is beginning to move inside the A-frame. That is the spot to place the other micro switch so that the counterweight strikes the leaf, or pedal, cutting power to the motor. A DPDT switch controls the motor and the micro switches.
A simple alternative is to operate the bridge "manually" without micro switches. That's how I started out just to keep it simple in the testing stages. A DPDT switch is wired directly to the motor. I used a Center Off DPDT switch. When the ascent or descent of the bridge was complete, I flipped the DPDT switch to Center Off. If you are afraid that you will forget to turn off the switch in the event of a distraction, then use a Momentary DPDT switch that you have to keep activated with your finger. If you let go, the motor will stop.
Hope that helps.
scoutII Looks Great! - Pic from layout of Jack Heier in Loveland, Colorado
Looks Great! - Pic from layout of Jack Heier in Loveland, Colorado
Wow, that is sweet. I love that scene, especially that tug beneath the bridge and its wake.
I plan to place a similar looking tug beneath my bridge, but being on a lift out section, I will have much less room and the length of the waterway will be shortened somewhat as a result.
I will be pressured to match the good look of this scene.
Thanks for posting that photo.
I don't golf, but around here, those who do, do so all winter. I think that they use an orange ball when there's snow, although after a couple of days, the snow on the ground is dirty enough that they go back to using regular balls.
That looks great Rich. Looking forward to seeing the final pics when you get everything all tidied up. The tugboat sounds like a nice addition.
Golf in Chicago after all those snow storms, are you kidding me? LOL
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
Yikes, I am nearly four weeks into this project, but I finally completed the bridge tender house today. The base, walls, windows and roof are no big deal. But, the platforms, staircases and handrails are consistent with the rest of the kit. They must be put on the building in the proper order, and the instructions do a good job warning you of that fact.
The inner handrails are attached to the inside of the staircases, but the staircases and platforms must be attached to the building first for proper alignment. In turn, this makes it difficult to put on the inner handrails. So, what I did was to use a 2-part epoxy (JB Kwik), applied with the point of a needle. That worked superbly, and it provided a much better and more secure fit. Ultimately, I secured all of the handrails, inner and outer, with epoxy which also eliminates any spaces between the parts of the handrails that are supposed to join together with glue.
Today, I ordered the stone cut walls and piers (Chooch Enterprises), the bridge track Walthers Shinohara), and a fire department tug boat (Model Tech Works) to put under the bridge in the river. Once I finish the ladscaping (ground cover, piers and abutments, river, and ballast), I will post final photos and a video of the bridge in operation on the lift out section of the layout.
I hope to have that ready by the end of next week. Golf is right around the corner in the Chicago area.
DigitalGriffin richhotrain: Someone just bought the bascule bridge new on eBay for $220.49 - - - 7 bidders, 11 bids. Rich It's articles like yours on here that encourage people to try to build thier own, after they see how nice it comes out. Not a bad profit for an $80 MSRP kit. I wonder how much my assembled one would sell for with working marker lights? I'm still not sure if I have a place for it in my final layout.
richhotrain: Someone just bought the bascule bridge new on eBay for $220.49 - - - 7 bidders, 11 bids. Rich
Someone just bought the bascule bridge new on eBay for $220.49 - - - 7 bidders, 11 bids.
It's articles like yours on here that encourage people to try to build thier own, after they see how nice it comes out. Not a bad profit for an $80 MSRP kit.
I wonder how much my assembled one would sell for with working marker lights? I'm still not sure if I have a place for it in my final layout.
I think that the trick would be in packing it for shipping so that it wouldn't break. Might have to be for pick up only. My guess for a fully assembled, painted, operational bascule bridge with working marker lights - - - somewhere between $300 and $500 - - - based on the selling prices of NIB kits on eBay.
Frank,
Great photos, thanks for sharing. That PRR bridge at 21st Street is no place for a derailment. So much for bridge guard rails.
Here are the pictures of the bridge at 21st and Canal St. Enjoy!
-Frank
Bridge1
Great job so far. You have been busy!! When I have time,I will post some pics I have of an actual
derailment on the 21st. canal st. lift bridge. UP power units 8 to be in fact run onto the bridge on their
own.Brake failure.Three of the units derailed on the bridge leaning on the girders. One of my son's
was an operations manager for the UP intermodal yard on canal,2009. Now he is at the Joliet yard.
richhotrain Someone just bought the bascule bridge new on eBay for $220.49 - - - 7 bidders, 11 bids. Rich
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
doctorwayne Looking at it in its future location, I gotta ask: howcum ya didn't build it as a skewed bridge? Seriously, though, Rich, it looks great, and so does your layout. The video of the bridge in operation was impressive, too. Wayne
Looking at it in its future location, I gotta ask: howcum ya didn't build it as a skewed bridge?
Seriously, though, Rich, it looks great, and so does your layout. The video of the bridge in operation was impressive, too.
Oh, Mama. Can you imagine trying to kitbash this guy into a skewed bascule bridge. I am going to leave that project to you, doctorwayne. Please send photos of your progress.