Looking at it in its future location, I gotta ask: howcum ya didn't build it as a skewed bridge?
Seriously, though, Rich, it looks great, and so does your layout. The video of the bridge in operation was impressive, too.
Wayne
Nice,Nice, and Nice!! Your Service yard gave me some ideas!! Thanks - Looking forward to the video. Chris
Here are some preliminary photos of the bascule bridge installed on the layout. It sits atop a lift out section spanning an aisle to permit trains to crossover and reverse directions. The lift out is, in fact, a reversing section. You can see the auto-reverse unit on top of the surface. I need to hide or camaflouge the unit. I also need to determine a final position or placement for the bridge tender house which is visible on the left side of some of the photos.
Next step is the finish the track work and wiring. At the moment, the bridge is not operational until I work on the track and wiring on the lift section. Then, the landscaping, ballast and stone piers. Lastly, I will install some railroad bridge lighting. The first photo is the original lift out before re-engineering it for the bridge.
Next are some closeup photos of the bridge from different angles.
Lastly, these are the very first photos of the Santa Fe Super Chief navigating the bridge over the soon-to-be waterway.
I will be back with a video of the bridge in operation once I complete the track work, wiring, landscaping and lighting.
Rich
Alton Junction
Someone just bought the bascule bridge new on eBay for $220.49 - - - 7 bidders, 11 bids.
Rich,
That article on converting the Walthers bascule bridge to double track was in Mainline Modeler Magazine. It ran in two parts in the November and December issues, 2002.
Jerry
DigitalGriffin There's an article in a previous issue MRR on how to expand your Bascule to a double track.
There's an article in a previous issue MRR on how to expand your Bascule to a double track.
Do you recall the month and year of that issue?
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
Rich, my head just exploded.
Don
HobbyDr's Workbench
I came across this thread where someone kitbashed the bascule bridge into a three track behemoth. It is the 11th post down on page 1 of the thread.
http://forum.atlasrr.com/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=54824&whichpage=1
I wonder if it actually operates because he, like me, reversed one of the walking beam supports which caused the bridge to jam halfway up.
No matter, that is an amazing piece of kitbashing.
barbender rich After watching my bridge through several cycles, I have noticed the following conditions. Note that all references to a right or left side is made from the A-frame end. 1- the right side rack beam does all the work during the lift cycle. 2- the beams are inserted into the pinion gear housings the same amount, but the bridge and A-frame assembly is slighty skewed. This results in the left end of the long rack gear rod [part #114] being displaced toward the A-frame. To correct this the left side rack gear beam would have to be moved 2-3 teeth further into the pinion housing. This can't be done, as the pinion housings are glued togeather. 3- the skew condition causes more binding during the lowering cycle, possibily because the beams go from tension load when lifting, to compression load when in lowering mode. The loaded beam may flex slightly when pushing the bridge down. The bridge may be more sensitive to counter balance weight if the skew condition exists. 4- both rack beams load about the same when the bridge is fully down, and some motor load is applied. This could affect track alignment when in operation.
rich
After watching my bridge through several cycles, I have noticed the following conditions. Note that all references to a right or left side is made from the A-frame end.
1- the right side rack beam does all the work during the lift cycle.
2- the beams are inserted into the pinion gear housings the same amount, but the bridge and A-frame assembly is slighty skewed. This results in the left end of the long rack gear rod [part #114] being displaced toward the A-frame. To correct this the left side rack gear beam would have to be moved 2-3 teeth further into the pinion housing. This can't be done, as the pinion housings are glued togeather.
3- the skew condition causes more binding during the lowering cycle, possibily because the beams go from tension load when lifting, to compression load when in lowering mode. The loaded beam may flex slightly when pushing the bridge down. The bridge may be more sensitive to counter balance weight if the skew condition exists.
4- both rack beams load about the same when the bridge is fully down, and some motor load is applied. This could affect track alignment when in operation.
barbender,
The more experience I gained while building this bridge, the more I realized how critical the racks are to the lifting and lowering process. Your observations are all appropriate. In the instructions, Walthers says to "place the rack, tooth side down, on the gears, as close to the end of #46 (i.e., the gear box, or pinion housing, as you call it) as possible". "As close to the end (of the gear box) as possible". That's all they say. But, it is absolutely critical to align both racks, left and right, identically, so that the racks, the truss bridge and the A-frame are all square. Otheriwise, binding is inevitable.
Each rack must be installed so that the gears on each rack sit on the same tooth on the left rack and on the right rack. As you point out, once the two sides of each gear box (pinion housing) are glued together with three gears inside each gear box with the rack attached, it is too late to make adjustments because the gears and the rack are locked in place at that point.
zstripe Rich, A job well done.Your patience and perseverance paid off. Are you sure you don't want to try the swing bridge???? HA HA. Frank
A job well done.Your patience and perseverance paid off.
Are you sure you don't want to try the swing bridge???? HA HA.
Frank
Thanks, Frank. As for the swing bridge, I will still resist. I have had crazy thoughts over the last 48 hours of scratchbuilding a lift bridge, but I am sure that I will come to my senses before it is too late.
I should amend an earlier statement that I made about having to add extra weight to the counterweight.
I became concerned about the amount of added weight because I noticed that the motor was making a squeaking sound but only when the bridge was lowering, indicating excess weight in the counterweight.
So, I started over with the additional weight, but this time I had oiled the pivot points which I had not done previously when I had first added weight. I also smeared a drop of light oil on each rack with my finger.
As a result, I only needed about 1/2 to 2/3 of the additional weight than I first thought that I needed. And, the squeaking sound of the motor stopped, indicating that it was no longer stressed by excess weight.
barbender Very nice Rich, action looks real smooth. I now have full travel on my bridge. I had to cut an access port in the main gear side end wall and glue the gear to the shaft. Also had to sand down the width of the top of the rack gear beam. That took care of the binding.
Very nice Rich, action looks real smooth. I now have full travel on my bridge. I had to cut an access port in the main gear side end wall and glue the gear to the shaft. Also had to sand down the width of the top of the rack gear beam. That took care of the binding.
You make a good point about the top of the racks that hold the gear boxes. I may have to go back and amend my Checklist to include a comment or two on this point.
As I struggled to get the bridge to consistently lift without binding, I did notice that one source of binding seemed to be the top of each rack, probably due to the relative lack of stiffness of the plastic. Plus, plastic on plastic for moving parts can be problematic.
Sanding is a good idea. I haven't done anything yet, but I have considered applying graphite or a silicone stick to lubricate the racks and minimize friction. That, along with applying a drop of light oil on each pivot point is crucial to trouble free operation.
I admire your perservence on this project, Rich. It's inspiring me to get back to work on mine. Congratulations.
Very nice Rich, action looks real smooth. I now have full travel on my bridge. I had to cut an access port in the main gear side end wall and glue the gear to the shaft. Also had to sand down the width of the top of the rack gear beam. That took care of the binding. To anyone building this kit, it really is worth the effort. You have to see-hear it move up close to appreciate it. My blood pressure is back to normal, so I think I'll tackle the swing bridge next. Rich, I am looking foward to seeing your bridge in place on your layout. I now have three bridges, no layout.
I just got your email. Very well done Rich. I think it's even smoother than mine.
Great job, look forward to seeing it installed!!
Very nice Rich. Your efforts really paid off with a smoothly lifting mechanism. Can't wait to see the final installation.
Joe
Here it the video of the bascule bridge in operation, first lifting, then lowering.
My next step is to get this big guy installed on my lift out section.
watch?v=hRSWbWNVTQA
barbender If a new main gear shaft must be made[mine was bent] be very careful to keep a tight fit and glue the gear to the shaft as you did. Now, as I am a glutton for punishment, I would like to kit bash/ scratch build a version of this bascule type where the counter weights are carried outboard of the trunions on the counterweight arms. This type is shown on page 99 of the Bridge and Trestle Handbook by Paul Mallery, 1976 edition. Any thoughts on this project? I am going to start looking for close up details of the A-frames and counterweight construction on this version. barbender , I don't have that book, so it is hard to comment, and an engineer I am not. However, the concept of the counterweight and its placement is beautifully explained and discussed on pages 16 to 21 of the following document. http://www.historicbridges.org/illinois/sbrr/haer-il-157.pdf The Strauss heel-trunnion single leaf bascule bridge discussed in this document is the 16th Street bridge in Chicago that Walthers modeled its bascule bridge after. Rich
If a new main gear shaft must be made[mine was bent] be very careful to keep a tight fit and glue the gear to the shaft as you did. Now, as I am a glutton for punishment, I would like to kit bash/ scratch build a version of this bascule type where the counter weights are carried outboard of the trunions on the counterweight arms. This type is shown on page 99 of the Bridge and Trestle Handbook by Paul Mallery, 1976 edition. Any thoughts on this project? I am going to start looking for close up details of the A-frames and counterweight construction on this version.
barbender ,
I don't have that book, so it is hard to comment, and an engineer I am not. However, the concept of the counterweight and its placement is beautifully explained and discussed on pages 16 to 21 of the following document.
http://www.historicbridges.org/illinois/sbrr/haer-il-157.pdf
The Strauss heel-trunnion single leaf bascule bridge discussed in this document is the 16th Street bridge in Chicago that Walthers modeled its bascule bridge after.
That's a great job of summarizing your efforts! Thanks for posting it for all to see. I'll keep it available when I start assembling my baby. I figured this would be a complicated build, but never imagined it to be quite so much.
I look forward to seeing the video.
George
Glad your bridge is working well. I am going back into the gear box and see if I can secure the main shaft gear problem as per my first post. From the other posts it is obvious that quality control at the manufacturer of these kits was slack, to say the least. You give exellent advice to those who are just starting this kit. Let me add that trial assembly of the truss halves is very helpful, as mine had considerable misalignment of the pins- receiver holes. If a new main gear shaft must be made[mine was bent] be very careful to keep a tight fit and glue the gear to the shaft as you did. Now, as I am a glutton for punishment, I would like to kit bash/ scratch build a version of this bascule type where the counter weights are carried outboard of the trunions on the counterweight arms. This type is shown on page 99 of the Bridge and Trestle Handbook by Paul Mallery, 1976 edition. Any thoughts on this project? I am going to start looking for close up details of the A-frames and counterweight construction on this version.
Well, I am happy to report that I have finally got the bascule bridge to operate flawlessly. The clincher was adding a drop of oil on the metal connecting rods at each pivot point. Because the metal rods fit so tightly inside the plastic parts, there is a lot of friction that impedes smooth operation during the lifting and lowering process.
As soon as I get a chance to permanently install the additional required weight inside the counterweight, I will provide a short video of the bridge in operation.
But for now, I thought that it might be useful to post a checklist of steps to be followed to successfully build and operate the Walthers Cornerstone Bascule Bridge.
1. Read the instructions thoroughly and completely and understand those instructions fully.
2. Do not lose track of the part numbers. If you remove parts from the sprue, label loose parts with their respective numbers. Many paired parts look similar, but there are subtle differences. Others, including myself, have reported some warped parts, but they can be straightened. The instructions mention some parts but don't say where they go. Other parts are illustrated but otherwise not discussed in the instructions. Some parts are numbered one way and described by other parts numbers. Some parts have the same number. Sort all of this out at the beginning as best you can.
3. Paint parts as you go taking care not to paint surfaces that are to be glued. Painting the bridge after it is fully assembled, or after a subassembly is completed, is difficult because of the number of surfaces, some of which are not easily accessible.
4. There are 7 steps. Do not start a step unless and until you are prepared to complete the step. There are a lot of things to do within each step so be prepared to commit a fair amount of time to painting and assembly.
5. Follow the step-by-step instructions methodically. Assembling parts out of order will cause later problems.
6. Step 1, the assembly of the truss bridge superstructure, is the easiest step. Just paint and glue together the various parts of this subassembly.
7. Step 2 is the assembly of the gears and shafts (metal rods). The gears are hard to get on the rods because the center holes on the gears are smaller in diameter than the 5/64" rods. Resist the temptation to ream the holes larger or to lubricate the rods. The result will be slipping gears that pin too loosely. Consider adding 2-part epoxy on each side of the gears where they touch the rods so that the gears will not spin freely once the assembly is completed. After the bridge is fully assembled, lightly lube the gears with appropriate (e.g., Labelle) gear lube.
8. Step 3 is the assembly of the A-frame and machine shed. Be careful and follow the steps in order. The gear boxes are tight fits, so have small clamps available to hold them in place once glued. The gear boxes fit onto a pair of toothed racks. Place each gear box in the same spot on each rack. This is crucial so that the racks are aligned propery and provide a square fit.
9. Step 4 is the assembly of the walking beam and walking beam support. Install the walking beam support in the right direction. Otherwise, the bridge will not fully lift, jamming if the support is installed backwards or upside down. The support looks the same from end to end at first glance, but study the drawing and install it correctly.
10. Step 4 is also the assembly of the counterweight, Use sand to fill the counterweight, not lead weights as I did, because you may need to add or subtract weight at the end of the assembly. Do not glue on the hatch until you are satisfied with the operation of the bridge. Once the bridge is fully assembled, you will need to release the racks to take tension off the gear works and allow the bridge to be moved up and down manually. With the racks released, add or subtract weight until the bridge begins to lift up on its own. That is the proper amount of weight.
11. Step 5 is the final assembly of the entire bridge works. Be careful not to bend the connecting rods ads you insert them in the pivot points. Add a drop of oil (e.g., Labelle Medium Oil) to each pivot point to ensure smooth and flawless movement up and down so that the bridge easily lifts and lowers.
12. Step 6 is the installation of the staircases and handrails on the bridge tender house. This is an easy step to complete.
13. Step 7 is the final step involving the electronics. Although some suggest that the 6 volt motor is inadequate, it seemed fine to me. I see no reason to replace it with a 12 volt motor. However, the Walthers-supplied reed switch is useless. Replace it with a micro switch or wire a Center Off DPDT switch directly to the motor. The instructions caution the user to limit the power source to 6 volts. I used a 6 volt lantern battery, and that worked quite well.
Good luck to all who attempt to build this bridge. It can be done, but it requires care and patience and attention to detail. The gears are the biggest problem. Make sure that they fit tightly and do not slip. Be sure to apply a drop of light oil to each pivot point to facilitate movement. Lastly, be sure to thoroughly test the counterweight to determine the exact amount of weight required. The instructions say to add 5 ounces, but I found that amount totally inadequate.
Hope this all helps.
I took the switch out of the unit and just used the motor leads to the center leads of the switch,
and the other switch leads in criscross to power,and used Radio shack red and green 12vdc 60ma
bulbs to the switch running on 6v,used a 6v 300ma walwart solely for power incorperated in my
control panel. By the way,IM a DC user with some BLI sound engines with zebra stripe santa fes
I also answered the other post. TAKE CARE FRANK
zstripe Rich, In regards to the reed switch. I didnt use it. I also found it to be useless. I used a simple dpdt center off switch to control it. It works fine. Im the only one controling it. so it works for me. By the way if you would like another challenge. Try the walters swing bridge double track. Its a little pricey but fun to build. It comes with micro switchs. and you have to buy the motor separate. also a 300to1 12volt that also works great that one will operate on its own.By the way I was born and raised in chicago 1946 now live in the subs for the last 32 yrs glad to hear you got it going. HAVE FUN FRANK
In regards to the reed switch. I didnt use it. I also found it to be useless. I used a simple dpdt
center off switch to control it. It works fine. Im the only one controling it. so it works for me.
By the way if you would like another challenge. Try the walters swing bridge double track. Its a little
pricey but fun to build. It comes with micro switchs. and you have to buy the motor separate. also
a 300to1 12volt that also works great that one will operate on its own.By the way I was born and raised in chicago 1946 now live in the subs for the last 32 yrs glad to hear you got it going.
HAVE FUN FRANK
Frank,
Very interesting. So, you just start and stop the switch manually?
Uhh, I think I will take a pass on the swing bridge. This project both tested and exhausted me. LOL
zstripe RICH; In regards to the counter weight on the Bascule Bridge leave the hatch cover off the weight and after You have it on the Bridge take a funnel and add sand to it about half full. That is what I did to mine and it works perfect. I had it since they first came out. HAVE FUN FRANK
RICH;
In regards to the counter weight on the Bascule Bridge leave the hatch cover off the weight
and after You have it on the Bridge take a funnel and add sand to it about half full. That is what
I did to mine and it works perfect. I had it since they first came out.
I only wish that I had seen your comment on the sand before I first added the lead weights.
Incidentally, do you have any problems with that reed switch?
Hi Guys,
Here is the latest update.
First of all, and I mean this positively, you guys are all smarter than me. I despaired and was ready to give up, but I am glad that I asked for help.
I have added more weight to the counterweight, and that has solved the problem. Or, maybe it has masked the problem.
Walthers instructions call for adding 5 ounces of weight to the counterweight, and I did exactly that. However, when the bridge wouldn't lift under its own power, I started adding weight till I found just the right amount. It took 6.5 ounces of additional weight, so the required weight is 11.5 ounces, nearly 3/4 of a pound.
That bothers me. That is more than twice what Walthers suggests. I now suspect the power source. I am using a 6 volt lantern battery, and the measured output on my volt meter is 6.16 volts. But who's to say if 6 volts are reaching the motor. Maybe my wiring is too high a gauge. So, I will be investigating alternative power sources. Walthers does warn the modeler not to exceed 6 volts or the motor may burn out.
Incidentally, I do have the older version with the 6 volt motor and the reed switch. The reed switch, as others have indicated, is next to useless. I am getting help from another forum member with an alternative approach that includes micro switches. I will report back on the results. Meanwhile, I am basically operating the reed switch with my fingers.
George, good suggestion on the racks. I will look more closely to be certain that I have them aligned in sync with one another.
Thanks to everyone for all of your contributions, suggestions and advice.
I'll be back.