Midnight Railroader thatboy37yes that is one of my biggest worries of me doing the wiring and coming home one day to a house burned to the ground. i had a professional electrician come from a insured company and he told me all the supplies that i needed to get and he wrote them down for me. what a big help he was with just that little info. i went to the store bought all the supplies and said to myself what do i do from here. he also told me how to wire all the receptacles and the whole nine. he explained i would need a sub panal i mounted and ran the wires to it that he said run. now im just waiting to get someone in here that want charge me 600 dollars just to connect the wires and inspect it. im no electrician but does it realy cost that much just to connect 8 wires to 8 new breakers and say it is ok. i ran all the wires and connected them to receptacles and lights. all the hard work was done by me but 600 dollars seems a little steep just to connect a few wires to breakers and say i passed the inspection. but in reality i dont want a house fire so i might just have to go ahead and fork out the money. Good gravy, I've built maybe a dozen layotus, some room-sized, and I have never needed to supplement the house wiring to do so. A model railroad just doesn't need that much power.
thatboy37yes that is one of my biggest worries of me doing the wiring and coming home one day to a house burned to the ground. i had a professional electrician come from a insured company and he told me all the supplies that i needed to get and he wrote them down for me. what a big help he was with just that little info. i went to the store bought all the supplies and said to myself what do i do from here. he also told me how to wire all the receptacles and the whole nine. he explained i would need a sub panal i mounted and ran the wires to it that he said run. now im just waiting to get someone in here that want charge me 600 dollars just to connect the wires and inspect it. im no electrician but does it realy cost that much just to connect 8 wires to 8 new breakers and say it is ok. i ran all the wires and connected them to receptacles and lights. all the hard work was done by me but 600 dollars seems a little steep just to connect a few wires to breakers and say i passed the inspection. but in reality i dont want a house fire so i might just have to go ahead and fork out the money.
Good gravy, I've built maybe a dozen layotus, some room-sized, and I have never needed to supplement the house wiring to do so.
A model railroad just doesn't need that much power.
well i see what you are saying about it doesnt need that much power but from the certified electrician that came and gave the estimate and by the way i want things wired he said it would be better if i put the trainroom lights on its on breaker. the train layout power on its own breaker, the movieroom lights on its on breaker, the tv radio dvd players all on the same breaker but they to will have their own breaker. from what he was telling me i would need to buy a breaker for each of these but i would also have to buy a whole new sub panel because i was out of spaces to put new breakers in the power panel that is already in place. plus i want to make sure i have enough power for the reailroad that way i dont have to worry about cutting on the lights in another part of the house and the trainlayout is sharing the same breaker then the power has to be shared. if you get what im saying you turn up the power of the trains and the lights in the other room go dim. i dont want that to happen. plus as i stated earlier i have 4 of the 5 amp power supplies from nce to power my whole layout. im going to have a separate switch to turn on the lights to the room and one to turn the power for the layout as was stated earlier by someone else. so i know that when i leave out of the room the power is off.
MINATURE: wasn't that the name of that bull-headed man from Greek Mythology who resided in the Labyrinth and was slain by Theseus?
From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet
yes that is one of my biggest worries of me doing the wiring and coming home one day to a house burned to the ground. i had a professional electrician come from a insured company and he told me all the supplies that i needed to get and he wrote them down for me. what a big help he was with just that little info. i went to the store bought all the supplies and said to myself what do i do from here. he also told me how to wire all the receptacles and the whole nine. he explained i would need a sub panal i mounted and ran the wires to it that he said run. now im just waiting to get someone in here that want charge me 600 dollars just to connect the wires and inspect it. im no electrician but does it realy cost that much just to connect 8 wires to 8 new breakers and say it is ok. i ran all the wires and connected them to receptacles and lights. all the hard work was done by me but 600 dollars seems a little steep just to connect a few wires to breakers and say i passed the inspection. but in reality i dont want a house fire so i might just have to go ahead and fork out the money.
I hear what you are saying with regards to cost. No it does not and should not cost 600 Dollars to connect the wire to breakers in the panel. Then again please keep in mind that i do not know what they charge in your area. At the same time the electrician takes on the liability if something goes wrong.
Put it this way in my area the 600 Dollars would cover the labour for the installation of the devices and wiring. This begs to ask the question: How reputable is this individual? That is something only you can judge. For anybody else reading this please understand I believe in earning a good dollar for a good days work, but 600 dollars would cover the wages and benefits for one and half to two days depending on the companies charge out rate. Mind you inspection is another can of worms.
Hope it helps.
Frank
"If you need a helping hand, you'll find one at the end of your arm."
Hello again,
It is certainly good to hear that you will get in a qualified electrician. A couple of years ago I was finishing a office rewire contract. The inspector that came for the final inspection knew me quite well and had inspected a number of other projects on which I was a foreman on. This made him very relaxed and talkative. He said that a few weeks prior to coming to my project he had done a new house inspection. He passed the house. On the monday of that week that he was talking to me he was called back for a fire investigation on that same new house he just passed a few weeks ago. He said that half the house had burned to the ground by the time the blaze was put out. He noticed that all teh receptacles and switches had been changed to another style. He asked if the homeowner had changed the receptacles, the home owner said yes and that it was very simple of a task to perform. The only problem was that he made a mistake in the kitchen countertop receptacles. This caused the breaker upon energization to weld shut rather then trip open. This fault caused enormous amounts of electricity to flow causing the insulation to melt from the wire resulting in the fire.
It was a simple mistake that the home owner had done, trying to save a few dollars that resulted in a huge mess. I hope that this true story re-inforces how important it is to have someone qualifed working on electrical installations.
Hope it helps
its taking a little longer to finish as the help who offered to help has stopped and i have been a one man show since then. he stopped halfway through the studding of a 1000sq ft basement. i think i have done a really good job since that sad day but finished sheet rocking the basement thursday. wifes birthday friday so no work was done and today taped and put first coat of plaster on walls. will sand and apply another coat tomorrow. its starting to look like a basement now. all of memory on camera is full so no pics this time. i can see the room full of trains running and gatherings of friends just having plain old fun. i will take your advice on getting the electrician to come and hook up the wiring. right now i wired all the receptacals together in the trainroom to one breaker and the same for the movie room and weightroom. also i rewired some lights that were already hooked up and and decreased the amount of lights that were already on that circuit 6 to 4. wired and ran wires for the lights in the trainroom and it will also have its own breaker and be own a dimmer. also did the same for the movie room lights. also i get a little more real estate for the layout with an addition of a 1'x4' section added at the foot of the stairs as you come down. she also asking me not to cut a hole and run a line through the stairs and have and some staging in the storage under the stairs. but its just wishful thinking for now. as i just want to get finished with the basement first. it will all be worth the wait in the long run.
Hi,
first off I would suggest you get someone that is a qualified electrician to do your wiring and also get it inspected. Trust me it is worth it.
Being an electrician in Canada I can only tell you what the canadian code rules are and how I would go about it.
#14 awg conductor has a maximum current carrying capacity of 15 amps. So the maximum size of breaker that is allowed in the panel to protect the wire is 15 amps. This breaker can only carry a maximum current of 12 amps. Being that you are wiring receptacles I asume that they are 120 volt. So the maximum wattage allowed on this circuit is 12amp*120volt = 1440 watt. Please remember that this is the maximum save operating load allowed on the circuit. Each receptacle or light fixture when installed in a house is calculated at a theoretical load of 1 amp. So you are allowed 12 devices on a circuit. I have wired up my own house and trust me I cut the number of devices in half on my circuits. I would much rather be safe.
If you have a number of 5 amp power supplies I assume that their output is 5 amp at 12 volt. Check the wattage that the manufacturer wrote on the supplies. It will tell you how many amps it draws if you divide that number by 120 volt. I would not go above a potential 1000 watt load on a designated receptacle circuit.
Also in order to cut down on voltage surges or spikes which occur when a motor starts up - ie dehumidifier I would have as you mentioned two designated receptacle circuits for my layout. Also I would consider running another circuit for a dehumidifier or other potential heavy current appliance, and since we are on the subject of wiring: Why not install two horse power rated motor disconnect switch next to your light switches. That way when you turn off the lights you can also turn off the two receptacle curcuits that feed your layout. That way you can be totally sure that all the power is cut to the cirucuit that powers your layout.
Bottom line is that if you are not sure about electricity, DO NOT TOUCH IT!!!!!!!!! Get a professional to do the wiring and get it inspected. Yes it might cost you a little more now but if you even just reverse the power and neutral on a receptacle it can cause a lot of damage to your electronic equipment. The handyman books that one can pick up at the book stores are good but there are a lot of aspects to the trade that can be easily left out when one is not in the trade.
So I hope this helps and if you have any more questions feel free to ask. If you are not sure let someone that is licensed do the work.
has anyone one the forum used sheetrock for anything on their layout. just wondering i have alot left over and would like some ideas for using it before i throw it all away.
thanks
thatboy37well times have been good as i have finished studding up my basement an on to the rewiring of lights and receptacles. which i am almost finished doing. have rewired the the lights for the hallway, weightroom, movie room. also have wired new receptacles for the movie room, hallway, and weightroom. i have run lines for the train room lights and receptacles. they both will have their on breaker. i have 4 receptacles for the trainroom and i have a question. should i go ahead and run all 4 receptacles on one 15 amp breaker or split them into 2 and have 2 run on one 15 amp breaker and the other 2 run off the other 15 amp breaker. the reasoning behind this is i have 4 of the nce 5 amp power supplies and i dont want them to be drawing to much power from anyone of the 2 breakers and trip them all the time or should i just go ahead and get a 20 amp breaker and hook up all 4 receptacles to it and have the power supplies to just that 1 breaker . kind of stuck and dont know what to do from this point. reason im asking is i want to be safe and not have the house go up in flames. i know i have alot of power but i want to have enough for when i have running sessions for the club im in. i dont want one of the problems to be that i dont have enough power. so now the problem is should i use 1 20 amp breaker or split it all up and use 2 15 amp breakers. the lights in the trainroom will be hooked up to a dimmer. that way i can simulate the night and day time at anytime of the day. also is there anything else anybody would recommend me doing before i start drywalling and sheetrocking.
well times have been good as i have finished studding up my basement an on to the rewiring of lights and receptacles. which i am almost finished doing. have rewired the the lights for the hallway, weightroom, movie room. also have wired new receptacles for the movie room, hallway, and weightroom.
i have run lines for the train room lights and receptacles. they both will have their on breaker. i have 4 receptacles for the trainroom and i have a question. should i go ahead and run all 4 receptacles on one 15 amp breaker or split them into 2 and have 2 run on one 15 amp breaker and the other 2 run off the other 15 amp breaker. the reasoning behind this is i have 4 of the nce 5 amp power supplies and i dont want them to be drawing to much power from anyone of the 2 breakers and trip them all the time
or should i just go ahead and get a 20 amp breaker and hook up all 4 receptacles to it and have the power supplies to just that 1 breaker . kind of stuck and dont know what to do from this point. reason im asking is i want to be safe and not have the house go up in flames. i know i have alot of power but i want to have enough for when i have running sessions for the club im in. i dont want one of the problems to be that i dont have enough power. so now the problem is should i use 1 20 amp breaker or split it all up and use 2 15 amp breakers.
the lights in the trainroom will be hooked up to a dimmer. that way i can simulate the night and day time at anytime of the day.
also is there anything else anybody would recommend me doing before i start drywalling and sheetrocking.
i did a redraw of the bench work and to have a 4ft wide peninsula and 3ft wide aisle's i would have to extend the the 13ft bench work lengths to 13.5ft. i have told the wife that the layout will only be 13ft wide but i thinks she want be mad if i stole another 1/2ft to bring the layout to 34ft x 13.5ft. now that means the the 34ft long part of the benchwork will only be 1ft wide all the way down just to allow for the 4ft wide peninsula and 3ft aisle's.
ok now to the start of the track plan. as i come out of the yard on the westside which is where i left off due to the finishing of my basement. i like the idea of mainline 1 staying close to edge with a nice broad curve and going down the peninsula with a passing siding on the broad curve of the loop. now with mainline 2 making and elevation up coming out of the yard and going to the opposite side of the peninsula staying elevated all the way down the peninsula and starting to make its descent down as it makes it way back down the peninsula just inside mainline 1 and going under itself at that the northwest junction. to then meet up and run side by side with mainline 1 down the 1ft wide part of the bench work.
that is a start and i hope you can visualize what i just wrote. if not i will try and post a picture of what im saying later today.
Reggie
I think the plan that shows an around the room layout with a large peninsula is a great start to what I think you are trying to accomplish. For the Mountains to the city theme as you described, this form would work well with the city located in the peninsula area. Your Union station could be located there along with plenty of freight industry giving this area a congested feel. At the intersection of the peninsula and your main line that would be going around the room you could have a interlocking junction to the main line with a wye and switch Tower. Im thinking This interlocking will allow you to either bypass the city or make a run through it. If you really want a action packed Junction and if it will fit, check out the Santa Fe junction in Kansas city. Im a northeastern US PRR fan and im used to seeing flyovers but that junction is a Modern monster. and alternative could be an at grade Chicago style Junction?
I say look at Thinking along the lines of how a Real City is laid out in Modern Times, Most freight can be diverted around cities and most large yards are located on the outlying parts of cities. Your location of the Large yard at the top of the plan will work figuring in the grand plan of things if up is north thats the northern outlying part of the city same deal at the southern end.maybe on the south end you have a Port with container ships one both ends Industry should become sparce until land turns rural and Mountainous.
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A Real Juice Jack .. IF its not electric Its not running on my layout.
mike aka wp&p:
i'm not trying to be combative here when i respond but i just want to have the best and thats why i'm asking the questions of what to do here. no i want continious running around the room and i am ok with making that back wall narrower to have that center peninsula wider for broader curves. actually the whole back wall can be narrower to allow for the whole peninsula to be wider all the way down the center. now i follow what you are saying with the way you described it te second time around.
i like the idea of two mains and the shared siding's but wouldnt that limit how long the trains can be just because of the siding's length. what about the idea of all three sharing sidings and maybe they come together on the layout in two different places for those high priority trains to pass and get to where they need to be.
for the peninsula the idea of industries sound great being that we are taking space away from the bottom wall to have a wider peninsula or maybe have a couple of industries on that bottom wall and the majority of the industries on the peninsula. i will take away one main as long as there is a double track mainline going around the whole layout and have the center track coming out of the yard as a yard lead the length of the longest train.
what i would enjoy most is is a layout with alot of action and something that when i have a opp session everyone wants to come back and do it again. like i said i want this and that but would rather make the layout enjoyable for all who come to run. which in turn means please help me as i dont just want to clog it up and it looks toy like and not realistic. that would be hard to do being that i am freelancing the whole layout but would model after a particular road if i can visualize it or get a picture of it.
well being that you are close enough to actually make an opp session and are willing to help with ideas and give pointers. i will look at what you say really hard and incorporate it into the layout. FOR EXAMPLE I WILL GO WITH THE TWO TRACK MAIN AND MAKE THE CENTER TRACK OUT OF THE YARD A LEAD TO SWITCH TRAINS FROM MAIN TO MAIN. SO OFFICIALLY IT WILL BE A TWO TRACK MAIN. PER ADVICE FROM YOU THAT IT WILL GIVE YOU AND ME MORE FUN AND ANTICIPATION OF WAITING FOR THE MAINS TO CLEAR BEFORE YOU CAN ADVANCE ONWARD WITH YOUR TRAIN.
i love long trains but my longest as of today is a fifty car gunderson twinstack train by deluxe innovations or fifty car coal train. i'm going to limit the longest train on the layout to fifty car max as the longest yard track just has enough for either of the two i just named. i think the average train length i have is thirty cars. so if you consider a long train thirty cars long then i like long trains then. from time to time a ten car train will do the trick of satisfying the mind that the train is longer than it really is.
as for speed wise it really doesnt matter cause i might just get the erge to high ball it around the layout and some times just cruise. when ever the mood hits pedal to the medal.
i like the big yard just for the simple fact i can get all of my rolling stock on the layout. which is why i bought all the rolling stock. the rolling stock has a better chance of getting some action if it is on the layout rather than in a closet or drawer and twenty years later you come across some rolling stock you totally forgot you had. also i read alot about guys and their layouts wishing they had built a bigger yard or just added staging on their layout. so i went ahead and got the most out of what i was going to designate for a yard. with my yard you should beable to have all that a major yard like cincy's or the union pacific bailey yard have on and in it. a/d tracks , rip, fueling, sanding, roundhouse, yard lead, intermodal yard, etc etc. so all in all it is for everything you can do in a yard in real life if you get the picture.
well i kind of abandoned the n trak standard because when i took it to the trainshow at johnny's as i was taking it out of the car to get it back into the house after the show i dinged the ends of the tracks and had to replace some so that's what made me not want to take it to shows and forget about the n-trak standards. also i had thought about it before you said it. it kind of limits what you can do as far as mainline runs. which is the gain an inch lose a foot factor.
i really have no vision as i like all trains and roads. each brings its own unique thing to the train world for me. i'm not modeling any specific road at this particular time. maybe sometime down the road i will decide but for now it's up in the air. ok take that back i really like the ns and cn roads a lot but kato doesnt make an abundant selection of either road name. yes i'm a kato freak and all my loco's are kato except for five of them and they are atlas. three of them are dcc and the other two are dc. also the reason for purchase is the price i paid for them. i really just buy what i like and if i think in my mind that it is a great deal and im getting it for a steal the it is mine and its coming home with me.
my vision or what i would like to incorporate into my layout are as follow: i like the hillside mountian type railroad with some long runs of straight aways that is if im not conflicting myself. this is what i have to place on the layout. if this is what you are talking about drafting up some type of vision plan here we go as these are some of the items i want on the layout and already have. 1 union station passenger terminal, 4 kato single track truss bridges, 3 kato double track bridges, 2 western coal flood loaders, 3 adm grain elevators, 1 built up cornerstone 130' turntable got it for a steal at a $130 new couldnt pass it up, 4 mi-jack cranes, 2 bachman loco maintenance building, 2 bachman car repair shops, 1 north island refining kit, 4 tomix signal stations, 2 tomix 3 stall loco roundhouses, i would like to incorporate an autorack plant, and last but not least an airport as i have bought the 1/400th scale planes from dragon wings and a few of the terminals to make an airport scene. which i know is to small but with a little forged perception i think will really look great if done right. the airport would be placed on one of the 13ft walls and take up the whole length of the wall. thats my plan but plans can be changed as you can tell.
my passion is to see trains running short or long it doesnt matter as long as its a train and a variety of them at that. like i said its going to be a freelanced layout with no particular theme besides what i said i have and want to be on the layout. you see the name i gave the layout. reggie's minature train world.
steve aka accatenary:
thanks for the compliments. its going to be freelanced and i'm thinking more modern from a little mountian side to city type layout with plenty of industries for switching out cars to make like you are actually doing something or the trains have a purpose for being in a specific part of the layout. if you understand what i'm saying. if you have ideas throw them at me and if i like what you suggest. i will impliment them on the layout and dedicate that part of the layout in your name. thats a promise.
hope this helps you in trying to help me figure out what i'm trying to do with this layout. all other comments and suggestions are welcome.
Nice Yard and man you have lots of room for N scale
Is your layout going to be freelanced Conrail or based on a particular area ? Are you going to do a rural to suburbs to city type of modern layout ?
Unless you're intending point-to-point operation, your central peninsula is going to need to widen to create a return loop of sufficient radius. I wouldn't go less than 18" radius for the kinds of long trains and modern long cars that I know you're gonna want to run. If this is the minimum radius of the interior mainline, and you've got 3 tracks, then the middle one would be 19.5" radius and the outer one 21" radius. Add a little bit to that for the edge of the benchwork, and you're talking about a peninsula that is 4 feet wide.
This is what I was trying to accomodate in my quick sketch, forcing the track on the bottom wall to run on a narrow shelf, to allow the loop at the end of the peninsula.
As for doing triple track versus double track with shared sidings, you can go either way. I just think it adds operational interest if the guy running train #3 as an extra has to deal with getting into the "hole" to let trains on the two mains proceed past. I, for one, would prefer to operate that way rather than just have a wide open third main all to myself... there's no challenge in it. But here's another thing to consider - maybe the third line doesn't follow the other two out onto the peninsula! Perhaps it bypasses, or takes some other route, so for at least the length of the peninsula you've only got double track. You might even go so far as to get the peninsula down to single-track, and let it represent a sort of industrial belt line with plenty of switching opportunities.
Of course, it comes down to figuring out what you and your operators are going to enjoy the most. For me, I like shorter trains that have to fight grades to reach mines and switch out cars; modern comfort cabs hot-footing it with TOFC's in tow don't do much for me. But you might be the exact inverse! I like running at 30 mph or less, you might prefer running 70 mph and up. Are the big yards indicative of your enjoyment of switching cuts of cars into trains, or are they intended more as staging tracks to hodl trains ready for departure?
You've stated that you want to adhere to N-Trak standards for as much of the layout as possible, but this is actually a rather limiting factor. The plan I cam up with makes use of N-Trak modules for about half the layout, and relies on similar but adapted modules for the rest. However, I bet you could fit even more decent mainline run if you abandoned those standards once you get out past the yards, and relied on more free-form benchwork. So there is a trade off.
I think it would be helpful for you to draft some sort of statement about what really gets you most excited about this hobby, what your passion is. That can become a vision statement towards which the layout design can aim.
how's it going mike. thanks for the advice. nothing is really set in stone with the layout design. as i'm not to far along to where i cant change anything. also im finishing my basement so the layout is on hold until its finished. i got a couple of pictures of the basement work me and my neighbor have done so far.
also what do you think of this benchwork plan and i have also drawn in a little of a possible track plan for this one. i want three mains but i will cut out a main maybe the middle main and make it a yard lead for all tracks in the yard coming out of both ends, and make the lead the length of the longest yard track. remember i really want three mains and if i go with two that means when i have a opp session thats less trains that will be running i plan to have at least one session a month once i get the track down and trains running. i would hait to see someone not get to run when they come over and they have driven maybe an hour or two away. i understand that sometimes less is better but i'm thinking more for the purpose of the opp sessions. i have made all walkways 3 feet wide except for the long wall opposite the yard and that is an 8ft section. which is 2 1/2ft wide.
Hey Reggie!
I'm one of the members of that club, and was in that Johnny's show (I'm in your second photo of it, and my loaded coal train is idling in your yard). I wish I had found this thread earlier, as layout design is my favorite part of the hobby and the reason I became an architect.
I echo a number of the comments already made, that 13'x34' is a great size for an N-scale , and that aisle width should be a concern. Focusing on long runs for long trains seems to be most in keeping with your vision for this layout. Short peninsulas with a lot of curvature work to counteract this goal, which is why I like PCarrell's sketch, which creates a long peninsula or two down the long dimension of the room.
In 13 feet of width, I think there's really only room for one peninsula, especially given your wide yard along one long wall. I have tried to honor 30" min. but 36" preferred aisles, with some "bulges" that create additional space in some areas; think of these as passing sidings for people. My own layout, at http://wpandp.com/HomeLayout.html , does this as well, creating triangular-shaped spaces for multiple operators to meet.
As you are a member of an N-Trak club, I've tried to build in some standard N-trak modules. The blue ones are these; there's three standard 3x3 corners, though scenically they're being viewed from inside the curve. There's a handful of 2x4 and 2x6 modules. By constructing this in such a way that these modules are easily removable, you can invite other club members to bring their own modules over and enjoy running on your home layout. Plus, you can build new modules to replace old ones, as your tastes change.
The purple shapes are the non-standard modules. These can have the same track spacings and some of the other N-trak standards, but they won't work in the context of a train show.
The central peninsula features mainlines crossing, which can be either by a bridge, or it could be a major set of diamonds like at Rochelle, Illinois (where UP and BNSF main lines cross). The crossing closer to the right wall, in my opinion, should be a vertical separation, possibly with one line going through a tunnel. The curves here have the opportunity to be rather broad, and they can be appreciated from both inside and outside. The fourth corner doesn't work as a standard N-trak corner because of the location of mains on the string of 4 2x4 modules; but if you did go up-and-over you'd need this corner to begin climbing, anyways.
One thing several railroads did was to have 2-track mains that every so often widened to 3 by adding a passing siding in between the two mains, shared by them. You could do this on either side of the chain of 4 2x4's to convert the Yellow line into the common passing track.
So here's my crude sketch; I'm at home and don't have access to my much better CAD software at work.
(if the upload didn't work or you just want to see it full size, click here)
well all of my wood for finishing the basement was delivered today and my neighbor and i are going to start working tomorrow. so pictures of the work as we progress will be posted and i hope you can wait for the progress of the railroad. as it will be halted until the basemnent is finished. i'm hoping this will be completed in a month and a half or less. so bare with me as we take this journey of finishing my basement. this is my first time doing something like this since i took carpentry in high school and we went out into the community and built house's/ helped finish them in 96/97 and 97/98. so i figure a little quick refresher and we will head in and tackle this project starting tommorrow.
Reference to REGGIE Field, here are some ideas...
http://cgi.ebay.com/Classic-Electric-Football-Game-Stadium-Accessory_W0QQitemZ400052326960QQcmdZViewItemQQptZVideo_Games_Games?hash=item5d24fa1230&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A3%7C294%3A50#ebayphotohosting
http://cgi.ebay.com/NFL-STADIUM-cake-kit-FOOTBALL-birthday-party-topper_W0QQitemZ300318393597QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item45ec5f04fd&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A4%7C294%3A50
I personally liked the cake topper. Couple of them spliced together might be a start...
http://cgi.ebay.com/NordicWare-Sports-Stadium-Football-Cake-Pan-Mold-New_W0QQitemZ160335035026QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCookware_Bakeware?hash=item2554b67a92&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A5%7C294%3A50
Sometimes you have to think outside the box. In this case Betty Crocker.
here are a few pictures i took last night of the work i did. i put in hours from 10:45pm last night till 3:00am this morning. its only the crossover switches from each main to the other and the cork for the curves. trying to get the switches lined up and straight is what took the longest of the process. plus i wanted to make sure that my trackwork was close to perfect as possible from just the eyes view. want know for sure until the sd90's start rumbling through them to test for any problems. here goes hope you like.
fifedog Howzabout an N-Scale football stadium, complete with spotlights. Perhaps you could use M&T or SAFECO as inspiration...
Howzabout an N-Scale football stadium, complete with spotlights. Perhaps you could use M&T or SAFECO as inspiration...
I actually plan to have that on the layout. just cant find a stadium that's the right scale size to place on the layout. if you know of any places that might sale them let me know the link to them that way i can purchase one.
good day
fifedog reklein nailed it, Reggie. Impressive yard and nice room. Keep postin' dem pics.
reklein nailed it, Reggie. Impressive yard and nice room. Keep postin' dem pics.
thanks for the compliment. i should call my broker to because i look back at it and say man the have alot of my money. but i guess its all in the hobby. will have a few more pics in the next few days as i have started working on the engine house/ service area of my layout. still thinking about a track plan as i'm thinking i will just do it as i get to that point. yes i'm a freelance modeler. so whatever fits to my likings is what goes. if any have ideas of something that they would like to see or do on a layout but cant do on theirs give me the idea and i will see what i can do with that idea.
again thanks
I think hes lookin at your collection of Atlas products and track and thinkin he shoulda bought stock in Atlas. OK gotta go call my broker too. BILL
PS railroads lookin good. I'm jealous.
fifedog Figures...I forgot to call my broker about ATLAS...
Figures...I forgot to call my broker about ATLAS...
you lost me with this saying
wm3798 Reggie, that's quite a yard you've built there. Two suggestions... are you going to finish the room with dry wall or something? If so, better get on it. If that's staging in a back room, I suppose that's not so bad. But it really makes a difference to have a finished room to work in. Also, it might be a good idea to paint that bare plywood to help stabilize it against moister and expansion. Looks like quite a fleet you've got there. Are you familiar with the Conrail Historical Society? You might want to check them out. Lee
Reggie, that's quite a yard you've built there. Two suggestions... are you going to finish the room with dry wall or something? If so, better get on it. If that's staging in a back room, I suppose that's not so bad. But it really makes a difference to have a finished room to work in. Also, it might be a good idea to paint that bare plywood to help stabilize it against moister and expansion.
Looks like quite a fleet you've got there. Are you familiar with the Conrail Historical Society? You might want to check them out.
Lee
Thanks for the comment. I'm going over plans for the basement now with my neighbor as he is a home builder. So hopefully he want charge me to much to finish the work. As i will have all the supplies waiting for him that he will need to do the work. Of course i'm going to help him.
So are you saying to paint/seal it before i ballast, or will the ballast be enough.
Also the fleet is growing as I am waiting on the release of the heritage series and the wartime black gs 4 from kato.
No I am not familiar with the conrail society, and I will check it out. Do you have a web address for it.
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net