danadrienHas anyone done a cost comparision between using 2x4 and 1x4 for layout constuction? Even though the 2x4's are more expensive, is the cost made up by using less of them than 1x4's? Is warping and bowing more of a problem with 1x4's? I've also read about cutting 4'x8'x3/4" plywood into 4" strips in place of the 1x4's. Is this a realistic alternative? Any thoughts you guys have would be very much appreciated. Thanks, Dan
Has anyone done a cost comparision between using 2x4 and 1x4 for layout constuction? Even though the 2x4's are more expensive, is the cost made up by using less of them than 1x4's? Is warping and bowing more of a problem with 1x4's? I've also read about cutting 4'x8'x3/4" plywood into 4" strips in place of the 1x4's. Is this a realistic alternative? Any thoughts you guys have would be very much appreciated.
Thanks,
Dan
Hmmm. Around here, 2"x4"s are a lot cheaper than comparable lengths of 1"x4". Don't use strapping-grade 1"x4"s, as they're full of knots, definitely not dry, and very prone to warping. Instead, use #1 or Select grade pine - clear of large knots and kiln-dried, and you should be able to find plenty of straight ones. While I did use 2"x4"s for legs on the layout, (I just "happened" to have lots "left-over" from building my house) as well as to support shelving beneath it, all of the layout is framed with 1"x4" pine assembled into an open grid using drywall screws. When I eventually get around to doing the second level, my plan is to use 1"x2" clear pine, with a tabletop of 3/8" sheathing grade plywood.
Wayne
My previous layout was all 1x4 lumber with 2" foam on top. Very sturdy. My new modules are 1x4's with 1x3 stringers, so the foam top will be slightly inset inside the lengthwise 1x4's. I'll have pictures - this is going to be totally documented. Plenty strong. 2x4's might be cheap, but that's for messy looking and probably warped stud-grade. Also as Nick says - HEAVY. Definitely overkill, Even if you need soemthign strong enough to stand on periodically - you don't need to build the benchwork from 2x4's.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
The only way that I would use a 2x4 would be to rip it into an L-girder shape, then use the strip that was cut out of it as the joists.
Otherwise, use 1x4's or 3/4 inch plywood ripped into 3 1/2 inch strips. The best plywood is birch furniture grade plywood. It is also more expensive, but it is straight and flat. You might want to take a look at it just so you know what it is and to compare prices. Sometimes it does go on sale and can be cheaper than the regular 3/4 inch plywood.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
2x4s are pretty much overkill, structurally. And very heavy to boot. My layout is movable, so my goal was sturdy, lightweight construction.
I have modules built using 1x4 frames and 1x2 joists that are 15 years old, and neery a sign of warpage. My new construction is 3/4" ply ripped into 3 1/2" widths. The oldest of these modules are 6 years old and still straight and square.
Nick
Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/