anjdevil2 wrote:OK Boys, I finally got it to work, it only took me 2 DAYS!!!!Went through the drill 6 times body off/on/pack/repack.......it really helps if you turn the SWITCH BACK ON!!!!!! Thank you ALL and especially you Jimmy RedSox...it really works & I Thank You!!!!
OK Boys, I finally got it to work, it only took me 2 DAYS!!!!
Went through the drill 6 times body off/on/pack/repack.......
it really helps if you turn the SWITCH BACK ON!!!!!!
Thank you ALL and especially you Jimmy RedSox...it really works & I Thank You!!!!
You forgot the World champion part! Good luck with your Polar Express!
Jimmy RedSox
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
lionelsoni wrote: I found these promising words in Wikipedia: "Use in hydroponics"Mineral wool is used for its ability to hold large quantities of water..."Let us know how it works out if you try it!
I found these promising words in Wikipedia:
"Use in hydroponics
"Mineral wool is used for its ability to hold large quantities of water..."
Let us know how it works out if you try it!
I will do that.
For those who want to cut the sock off of the heating element use the scissors on a Swiss Army Knife.
Celebrating 18 years on the CTT Forum.
Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..
Jelloway Creek, OH - ELV 1,100 - Home of the Baltimore, Ohio & Wabash RR
TCA 09-64284
anjdevil2 wrote: OK Boys, I finally got it to work, it only took me 2 DAYS!!!!Went through the drill 6 times body off/on/pack/repack.......it really helps if you turn the SWITCH BACK ON!!!!!!
Now you've done it, you can post the reply the next time to someone asking the question.
God bless TCA 05-58541 Benefactor Member of the NRA, Member of the American Legion, Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville , KC&D Qualified
I am the monster in your head...And I thought you'd learn by now, It seems you haven't yet.I am the venom in your skin --- Breaking Benjamin
Jumijo wrote: I haven't tried those scissors, but I used an exacto knife with the blade facing up, away from the element and cut carefully. It wasn't difficult to do.Jim
I haven't tried those scissors, but I used an exacto knife with the blade facing up, away from the element and cut carefully. It wasn't difficult to do.
Jim
Voltage squared, divided by resistance. About 7 watts at 14 volts.
Bob Nelson
Shhhucantcme wrote:Hey jim, How have you been? I am wondering if you or anyone knows what wattage the element is. I know from a previous thread from Jim Trumpie that the resistance is about 27 ohms.
Mark, I'm sorry but I don't know the wattage of the element. Mine will start to smoke at 9-10 volts.
I was thinking about buying some " matrix " scissors from Micro-Mark to cut the sock off with. This is their part number 81869. They are on page # 86 in the catalog I have. Has anybody tried these, and if you have,did they work ok w/o tearing up the smoke element?
Thanks,
George
Jumijo wrote: springoflife wrote: Hi, guys!This "conversion" sounds like something I want to try! How long will the pink fiberglass insulation last before it becomes too charred and would require a re-pack? (Assuming the operator keeps it moist.)10 hours? 100 hours? etc.I can't give you an estimate as to how many hours it will last. But when the smoke output is no longer near what it used to be, even after a fill up, that's an indication that a re-pack is in order. Your common sense will tell you.
springoflife wrote: Hi, guys!This "conversion" sounds like something I want to try! How long will the pink fiberglass insulation last before it becomes too charred and would require a re-pack? (Assuming the operator keeps it moist.)10 hours? 100 hours? etc.
Hi, guys!This "conversion" sounds like something I want to try! How long will the pink fiberglass insulation last before it becomes too charred and would require a re-pack? (Assuming the operator keeps it moist.)
10 hours? 100 hours? etc.
I can't give you an estimate as to how many hours it will last. But when the smoke output is no longer near what it used to be, even after a fill up, that's an indication that a re-pack is in order.
Your common sense will tell you.
Pretty good "come back". Merry Chirstmas Jimbo.
ChiefEagles wrote: Jumijo wrote: springoflife wrote: Hi, guys!This "conversion" sounds like something I want to try! How long will the pink fiberglass insulation last before it becomes too charred and would require a re-pack? (Assuming the operator keeps it moist.)10 hours? 100 hours? etc.I can't give you an estimate as to how many hours it will last. But when the smoke output is no longer near what it used to be, even after a fill up, that's an indication that a re-pack is in order. Your common sense will tell you. Merry Chirstmas Jimbo.
Merry Chirstmas Jimbo.
Merry Christmas, Frank.
Springbaby,
Be careful cutting that sock off. The heating element is fragile! Best of luck!
Will do, thanks Jim!
No. Our PE Berk is an older one, and does not have the same element that is pictured in this thread. Ours doesn't have the ceramic coating on it, but did originally have a tubular wick (sock) that I cut off. I left the resistor alone (it's still there) and mine smokes great. I'd suggest you do the same.
Thanks!One more question, and then I'll try to stop pestering...
My PE Berk HAS the resistor in-line with the element. It is my understanding that from the factory, some did NOT have this resistor. But was the heating element the same in both styles of engine? I don't want to remove the resistor in an attempt to over-drive my element if the element will just burn-out. If I remove the resistor should the element be changed (to a higher wattage element) too?
springoflife wrote:Hi, guys!This "conversion" sounds like something I want to try! How long will the pink fiberglass insulation last before it becomes too charred and would require a re-pack? (Assuming the operator keeps it moist.)10 hours? 100 hours? etc.
Mega Steam will make a difference. Put a load behind that engine. Put weights in cars and especially hopper cars. This will make it take more voltage to move it and run it if running conventional. Newer fan driven smoke units have an issue with the fan turning th wrong way. Last 4 I bought was that way.
Well I repacked my PE smoke unit. Results less than satisfying. My old wading was very charred where in contact with the heater and the heater element had burned on smoke fluid residue soaked into pink insulation. I gently scraped off all the residue and repacked lightly with new pink insulation. Mine never had a sock or a resistor. I tried to get the heater down as low in the smoke box as I could so as to keep it always in the wet stuff.
Anyway, performance is about the same as it was before...Weak. It will only make thick smoke with voltage at max and sitting for a couple minutes. Then you have to get some air moving up through the stack to get it to come out. Holes are free and clear of obstructions. My conclusion is that I need a new/hotter element or different smoke fluid. I have two bottles of Mega Steam scented smoke fluid on the way. All I've ever ran was the stock Lionel fluid, but maybe the Mega Steam will be better; though I'm skeptical of this.
Roland
lionelsoni wrote:Gas-log fireplace sets come with vermiculite and rock wool, which glow to produce the illusion of embers. I wonder whether rock wool wouldn't be a more durable wick material than fiberglass, since it is literally made from rock blown into fibers at very high temperatures.
Bob...I find your suggestion to use rock wool very intriguing since this last year I have repaired or replaced several smoke units in both steam and diesel. My only concern is its wicking properties. Would it be able to wick the liquid upward towards the heating element in sufficient quantities especially when the reservoir is less than say half full? My results using the pink insulation have been outstanding, but I might try the rock wool the next time I need to repack.
Shhhucantcme wrote: Yes chief, Thank you to Jim trumpie for his suggestion that I wish would have worked. With the smoke I am getting now with JUMIJO's help, had Jim Trumpie's suggestion panned out with the resistor thing, I would also need a FIRE ENGINE!!!!Who new that I would have no sock on the element? Who new I would have no resistor by the switch ( Thanks for trying here JIM Trumpie ) I didnt't even have a "Donut" Go figure. Again, I say JOE SMOKE AT LIONEL MUST HAVE BEEN OUT TO LUNCH THAT DAY!!!Kudo's to the other ( JIM ) A.K.A. JUMIJO for sticking with me all day and through out the evening. If it had not been for him I would have gave up much earlier on fixing this. I guess you are able to use a computer at work or maybe you are retired. All I know is that you kept answering back quickly to guide me through this. HMMMMMM how much do I owe u :-)
Yes chief,
Thank you to Jim trumpie for his suggestion that I wish would have worked. With the smoke I am getting now with JUMIJO's help, had Jim Trumpie's suggestion panned out with the resistor thing, I would also need a FIRE ENGINE!!!!
Who new that I would have no sock on the element? Who new I would have no resistor by the switch ( Thanks for trying here JIM Trumpie ) I didnt't even have a "Donut" Go figure.
Again, I say JOE SMOKE AT LIONEL MUST HAVE BEEN OUT TO LUNCH THAT DAY!!!
Kudo's to the other ( JIM ) A.K.A. JUMIJO for sticking with me all day and through out the evening. If it had not been for him I would have gave up much earlier on fixing this. I guess you are able to use a computer at work or maybe you are retired. All I know is that you kept answering back quickly to guide me through this. HMMMMMM how much do I owe u :-)
I am sure Jumijo did help as he repeated everything I typed frrom the begining. If it were not for Dr. Thinker and myself, he'd be sitting with dead engines.
No charge. I'm glad your smoke unit is working better now. Always glad to help someone if I can.
lionelsoni,
just do like I did and follow along. You will be very pleased with the end result.
I am !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
There are some great guys in here.
By the way let me know if you have a resistor by the off on switch of the smoke unit when you take the shell off.
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.
Get the Classic Toy Trains newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month