Hi all, Here is a little help with glueing balast. I have posted this in the layout area of this forum also. Here is a cut and paste from that area.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
I have been installing a lot of balast lately and I have given up on any kind of bottle applicaton for applying glue..
I was in Ace hardware over the weekend and in thier culinary area and I found a "flavor injector." It's a 30cc syringe with a 2" long injector tip. As a matter of fact I went back today and purchased another one. I use one to with a water/alcohol mix first and then the other one with a 50/50 mix of white glue and water.
I am laying N Scale track and in my switch yard I don't want any loose balast on top of the ties so I clean ALL the balast off the top of the ties. For the balast between the rails I apply the water/alcohol mix first this locks the balast in place. The water/alcohol fix is placed on to the top of the ties and let it run off the sides into the balast material (maybe two drops.) I do two section of track at a time. Then I go back with the other glue/water syringe and apply one drop of glue directly on top of the balast. With the balast locked in place you don't get any divet holes from the glue droping onto the balast material. For the end of the ties I put one drop of water/acohol at the end of every other tie and then go back with the gule.
This is takes time but it looks great.
Dewayne
Thanks for the reply!
Bikerdad wrote:1) No Structural reason for using 1.5" or 2" foam, its likely more a matter of what's commonly and easily available locally. Hereabouts .75" and 1" foam is common. Your plan for layering will work just fine, and is recommended for certain applications, such as yours.
Excellent! That'll make for a few less "haul it out to the picnic table" trips.
Bikerdad wrote:2) No. You just have to make sure that whatever water simulation product you use doesn't adversely affect whatever it comes into contact with.
Scratch one extra sheet of foam.
Bikerdad wrote:3) Unless you are putting bracing under the doors, there will be no significant difference is sag between one door, two doors, three doors, or more. This principle, however, does not hold true if you are putting a great deal of weight on the doors. So don't climb on the layout. Otherwise, just do 2 doors. Each joint is a complication, a invitation to Murphy.
LOL...who told ya that I'm the Murphy's Law poster boy? For me, the woodworking part of this endeavour, including the door joints...will be the easy part. There will be at least two cross braces spanning the two doors..both to keep the doors together and aligned, and as table mounting points. I'll probably break out the ole biscuit joiner just to be sure the joint stays in line. Chances of me ever trying to climb on this thing (intentionally) are probably slimmmer than those of me winning the lottery....since I don't play the lottery, those are some seriously slim chances.
Thanks again!
Reality...an interesting concept with no successful applications, that should always be accompanied by a "Do not try this at home" warning.
Hundreds of years from now, it will not matter what my bank account was, the sort of house I lived in, or the kind of car I drove...But the world may be different because I did something so bafflingly crazy that my ruins become a tourist attraction.
"Oooh...ahhhh...that's how this all starts...but then there's running...and screaming..."
I recently picked up a few N scale cars and some Kato UNITRACK to experiment with (Micro-Trains and Atlas cars). After using HO I was very surprised at how light the cars are. Being that light, it seems like they would easily derail. Is that a common problem or do they run pretty well?
Also, a few questions:
Jerry
Rio Grande vs. Santa Fe.....the battle is over but the glory remains!
motard98 wrote:Has anyone approached the moderators here to either sticky this thread or create a N-scale section?
Yeah, they weren't too keen on that.
- Mark
pcarrell wrote: motard98 wrote:Has anyone approached the moderators here to either sticky this thread or create a N-scale section? Yeah, they weren't too keen on that.
Seems to me like it would make alot of sense
motard98 wrote: pcarrell wrote: motard98 wrote:Has anyone approached the moderators here to either sticky this thread or create a N-scale section? Yeah, they weren't too keen on that. Seems to me like it would make alot of sense
This forum is made by MODEL RAILROADER MAGAZINE...Like they're gonna do anything special for N-scalers...
Precisely why I'm sure most of us subscribe to N Scale Railroading
http://www.nscalerailroadn.com/
jwils1 wrote:I recently picked up a few N scale cars and some Kato UNITRACK to experiment with (Micro-Trains and Atlas cars). After using HO I was very surprised at how light the cars are. Being that light, it seems like they would easily derail. Is that a common problem or do they run pretty well?Also, a few questions:Are plastic wheels the norm or are metal available?Can most N locos handle up to 3% grades okay?Does the Rix pick work best for uncoupling? With the cars being so light it seem that this could easily throw them of the track if one is not careful.I have one of the Kato uncoupling magnets but the top surface sets a bit below the top rail so it doesn't spread the couplers like it should. Do the Micro-Trains top of track magnets work better? And do they fit on Kato UNITRACK? I tried one of my HO under the track magnets and they really pop the couplers open nicely.Which code and type of track would be best for a 74 year old beginner? I've read of some of your problems with expansion and contraction so that's why I was thinking that UNITRACK might be best for me. What do you think?
Atlas/MTL cars are nearly the best in Nscale. Other brands can be made to run well. Depends on QC of the trackwork & locos. Atlas/Kato make the best locos.
1)Some LL cars use chemically blackened metal wheels. Old cars use shiny metal wheels. Keep any wheels clean!
2) 3% grades are steep for any scale. Sets of cab units (E's, F's) etc do best. GP's don't fare as well. SW's may be lucky to pull 10 cars on flat ground. You will need mutiple units of anything to pull a train up that 3% grade.
3)The Rix pick is good. You can use a skewer or a small screwdriver.
4) May depend on how strong that magnet is. Be careful placing it in mainline track if you don't want unintended uncoupling. You could keep a pick in that location.
5) Kato Unitrack is excellent plastic track, nearly bulletproof. It is code 80. Atlas code 80 has been the Ntrak standard for many years. You can't go wrong with 30 years of practice! You may want to paint it to make it look better (cut the shiney Lionel look). Code 55 is smaller, looks closer to prototype. Your choice, your RR! Welcome to Normal Scale!
PS: Check the web for places like Toy Train Heaven in PA that has deals on Unitrack. Let the net guide you to reliable Etailers. Bring your questions over to Nscale forums like TrainBoard, Atlas etc!
See,....there you go with that thinking thing again! Mess ya up every time!
Well...Garden Railroaders aren't the only ones that have problems with the Local Wildlife. I have a Skunk living under my layout...
<rant> When I turned 12 my parents decided that they would give me my own space to do modeling. At first it was gonna be a small corner of my dads garage. But he didn't want to give that up so they went and bought me a Garden Shed to build my layout in. For the first couple years that was great(and still is) untill about a year ago when I had a skunk decide to move in under the shed. The whole place reeked of the smell. Well here I am a year later and I have another skunk living under the shed. Today, I'm gonna grab some shots of my layout and then pull all the equipment out of there becuase I'm exhibiting with an N scale modular group and I don't want my equipment smelling bad at the show. </rant>
N scale cars can be too light like with any scale, empty double stack well cars are a great example. Usually a problem to watch for is curves that are too tight. Long cars won't make it too well and lighter cars at the front of a train will get yanked off. I've also found that with certain types of cars, again I refer to my intermodal train,that you have to try to keep certain ones together or risk problems. And I have done all sorts of work on these, I simply have to set them up a certain way.
I was at a show in Allentown last weekend and picked up an NS -840b and UP Autorack (Yes I paid a little extra). Plus a couple of miniature NJ International crossing signals. Can't figure out how they work but darn they look nice!
We've been a really lively bunch lately. I finished the last of 3 passing tracks on my layout yesterday. Today I laid down one of the spurs, and in a couple weeks I hope to be installing torti!
In the mean time I have to take a trip to Pittsburgh for a Robotics Competition. I'm hoping while I'm down there I can get some NS action and maybe even see if I can get some shots of the ever elusive NS SD80MACs
trainfan1221 wrote:N scale cars can be too light like with any scale, empty double stack well cars are a great example. Usually a problem to watch for is curves that are too tight. Long cars won't make it too well and lighter cars at the front of a train will get yanked off.
N scale cars can be too light like with any scale, empty double stack well cars are a great example. Usually a problem to watch for is curves that are too tight. Long cars won't make it too well and lighter cars at the front of a train will get yanked off.
Those deLuxe Innovations twinstack cars are the lightest of all...I did put Intermountain metal wheels on them and it helps a bit. I also body-mounted the couplers, which keeps them from derailing when reversed. Their Maxi-stack cars are made of diecast metal, so those run fine empty, as well as the Walthers doublestack cars.
Dave Vollmer wrote:Wow, what a great response so far!Cox 47, can't wait to see construction pictures.Peter, we need some pictures! 12x13 is an awesome space for N scale; I just posted a 10x12 PRR trackplan on another thread you may like.Nataraj, nothin' runs like a Kato!Roadeater, great scenery! I really like the rockwork.Darrell, you have a serious eye for detail. Good stuff. Tim's right; that's hardly "slapped together."Tim, how's that Code 55 working out for you? I considered it for a while, but wasn't sure my tracklaying skills were up to the task.Denny, great sites and great layouts! The SP is going to be a sight to see when you're done.Eriediamond, a fellow resident of NC! I'm here through 2008 before the Air Force moves me to New Mexico (or at least that's the current plan). Four tours in Vietnam, wow... Thanks for your service! One tour in Iraq was plenty for me!Here's a vanity shot of yours truly demonstrating what I think is N scale's main advantage... portability!
LOVE this thread:)
Dave or anyone else, can you point me to any resources for the track plan in the above pic? What are your dimensions? Very interested in giving it a go as a side project, nice variety there.
And any tips on altering the New River Mining Kit?
Thanks, any help appreciated
Lee
Adelie wrote: Can most N locos handle up to 3% grades okay? Others say they reliably can, my experience is not really. I tested my locomotives a year or so ago on a 1.9% grade and found most road switchers could pull 12-14 cars up the grade. Some of the heavier locos (Intermountain FTs, Kato E8s & PAs and Life Like FAs) pulled 20 or more. The problem is weight, and most N scale locos have too little of it to be strong pullers. I've heard steam is worse in this respect, but mine is an all-diesel fleet.
I run only Kato and Atlas locomotives and have a max grade of 1/5%. [edit: thats 1.5%, not 0.2%. Sorry] My experience is that an N scale locomotive with 4 axles can pull 12 cars up the grade without serious wheel slippage, a 6 axle locomotive can pull 14 cars. Beyond that I have to MU them or they will spin.
Ron
Owner and superintendant of the N scale Texas Colorado & Western Railway, a protolanced representaion of the BNSF from Fort Worth, TX through Wichita Falls TX and into Colorado.
Check out the TC&WRy on at https://www.facebook.com/TCWRy
Check out my MRR How-To YouTube channel at https://www.youtube.com/c/RonsTrainsNThings
southernman wrote: Dave Vollmer wrote:Wow, what a great response so far!Cox 47, can't wait to see construction pictures.Peter, we need some pictures! 12x13 is an awesome space for N scale; I just posted a 10x12 PRR trackplan on another thread you may like.Nataraj, nothin' runs like a Kato!Roadeater, great scenery! I really like the rockwork.Darrell, you have a serious eye for detail. Good stuff. Tim's right; that's hardly "slapped together."Tim, how's that Code 55 working out for you? I considered it for a while, but wasn't sure my tracklaying skills were up to the task.Denny, great sites and great layouts! The SP is going to be a sight to see when you're done.Eriediamond, a fellow resident of NC! I'm here through 2008 before the Air Force moves me to New Mexico (or at least that's the current plan). Four tours in Vietnam, wow... Thanks for your service! One tour in Iraq was plenty for me!Here's a vanity shot of yours truly demonstrating what I think is N scale's main advantage... portability! LOVE this thread:)Dave or anyone else, can you point me to any resources for the track plan in the above pic? What are your dimensions? Very interested in giving it a go as a side project, nice variety there.And any tips on altering the New River Mining Kit? Thanks, any help appreciated Lee
Lee,
Your every question will be answered at my website (the URL is in my signature block below). Enjoy!
Modeling the Rio Grande Southern First District circa 1938-1946 in HOn3.
What has happened here. Have all the Nscalers except me died and gone to Nscale heaven.
I surely hope not 'cause it is gonna get real lonely down here without all you gals 'n guys.
Blue Flamer.
I started a thread about this, but it flopped:
The N Scale Middle Division has seen a few changes... I've gotten around to updating my web page with two recent projects.
The first is the "how-to" I promised showing how I animate my position-light signals. You've seen one video; there's another on the page showing the other signals. Plus, a step-by-step (sort of) installation...
http://kc.pennsyrr.com/layouts/dvollmer/Projects/signals.html
Also, this weekend I added a removable 3-track staging yard in anticipation of expanded operations. Here's how I did it (took just a few hours):
http://kc.pennsyrr.com/layouts/dvollmer/Projects/staging.html
I also tweaked some of the description of the layout at my main page.
http://kc.pennsyrr.com/layouts/dvollmer/
Enjoy!!!
Dave Vollmer wrote:Also, this weekend I added a removable 3-track staging yard in anticipation of expanded operations. Here's how I did it (took just a few hours): http://kc.pennsyrr.com/layouts/dvollmer/Projects/staging.html
OK....I'm gonna ask what will probably be one of those "Duh questions"...but here goes......
With single end staging like that, aren't you pretty much limited to one direction opperation? And wouldn't that tend to get old quick?
Zandoz wrote: Dave Vollmer wrote:Also, this weekend I added a removable 3-track staging yard in anticipation of expanded operations. Here's how I did it (took just a few hours): http://kc.pennsyrr.com/layouts/dvollmer/Projects/staging.htmlOK....I'm gonna ask what will probably be one of those "Duh questions"...but here goes......With single end staging like that, aren't you pretty much limited to one direction opperation? And wouldn't that tend to get old quick?
Well, it does mean some trains will have to back out of the yard. Others will have to run left-hand until they get to the crossover at M Interlocking. All part of the challenge, I guess.
Sure, double-ended staging would be ideal. In fact, I plan to have double-ended run-through visible staging on my post-Air Force retirement layout. But for now, truth is, I don't have the room for anything more than what I've built. Even then, based on small housing at my next assignment (Kirtland AFB), I'll probably have to move to the garage with this.
My philosophy is some staging is better than none at all. Plus, if nothing else, at shows it will allow me to change out trains quickly without losing spectator interest.
does any one know what decoder will fit in an Kato SD70M?
Hey Dave have you been to Whiteman AFB yet?
Army National Guard E3MOS 91BI have multiple scales nowZ, N, HO, O, and G.
nscaler711 wrote: does any one know what decoder will fit in an Kato SD70M?Hey Dave have you been to Whiteman AFB yet?
No... I do a lot of work with the Army. My assignments thus far:
Maxwell AFB, AL (Officer Training School)
Keesler AFB, MS (Weather Officer Course/WSR-88D Radar School)
Fort Polk, LA (Army-support)
Deployment to Camp Comanche, Tuzla, Bosnia-Herzegovina (Army-support)
Yongsan AIN, Seoul, Korea (Army-support)
Air Force Institute of Technology, Wright-Patterson AFB, OH (Master's degree)
Patrick AFB, FL (Air Force Technical Applications Center)
Deployment to Baghdad, Iraq (Army-support)
Current: North Carolina State University, Raleigh, NC (USAF PhD student)