The Atlas FP7 is a late mode Phase !! FP7 and should be quite close to the CN FP9. Not having a picture of the ex-CN unit, I can not tell. The Canadian FP's were a little different than the US units.The upper grills had a 'Canada only' 3rd variation, and they did not like the F9 style vertical slit grills between the port hole windows(kept using the F7 style in Canadial production). I am sure tha Central Hobbies conversin kit is accurate, but you do need a power chassis as this is just the shell kit. Most folks use old Atlas chassis, or maybe you can get the IM chassis as a seperate part. The IM FP7 comes in two variations(early/late UDS car bodies).
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
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grayfox1119 wrote:PATHFINDER: I "did" do an edit after I realized that the F9 should have been and FP9, as it "is" used in passenger service in North Conway, NH, as well as an F7. Seeing that the FP9 is 4 feet longer than the F9, modifying an F9 is out, as I don't feel that adding the scaled 4 feet is a resonable solution. I am going to talk with Central Hobbies as you have recommended. Thank you Pathfinder,
grayfox1119 wrote:who makes the best quality, best running , FP9? Or, should I buy an F7, and then purchase the add-ons to mount on the F7 to make it look like an FP9?
Paul3 wrote:You only have four choices:1) Bachmann - A "trainset" model, with pancake motor and all the other troubles of it's ilk.
You only have four choices:1) Bachmann - A "trainset" model, with pancake motor and all the other troubles of it's ilk.
Paul covered it well. Much easier to use the Highliner shells. I've seen them and the detailing is eye catching.
Tyco made an HO F9 way back when in the 70s. Also a cheap trainset unit with a single truck, 3 pole motor. Sure was comical watching those lurching on the tracks, even with the rubber traction tires.
Still plenty of these floating around at flea markets and swap meets I had one and used it as an airbrush paint tester for years before scrapping it.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
2) Brass - Do you really want to spend $500+ for an regular F-unit?
3) Athearn Genesis/Highliner - The best shell out there, with a good if not great drive. And can be had for reasonable money. If you get the Highliner shell (which is the undec. version of the Athearn Genesis model), you get all the parts to make an F9 (or any other F-unit from the F2 to the F9 for that matter). If you buy an Athearn F9, you have to get a painted version, and you'd have to strip it. But I think you can get the drive from them as a seperate part. Or you can get the Stewart/Bowser drive (probably the best of both worlds...Highliner shell on Stewart drive).
EDIT:4) Stewart - A great drive, never heard of a problem with it. The shell, however, while very good, is still not as good as the Highliner tooling. It certainly doesn't have the see through grills and the add on detail parts of the Highliner.
David, in a word...Huh? Athearn RTR is an F7, not an F9. And Intermountain doesn't make F9's.
And how you could not mention the Athearn Genesis/Highliner F9?
Oh, and grayfox1119, I would not try to modify an F7 to an F9 when the Highliner shell is out there. You'd have to change body panels, roof lines, fan sizes, etc. to get an F9 out of an F7. It wouldn't be worth it when the Highliner shell does all that for you.
Paul A. Cutler III*************Weather Or No Go New Haven*************