Homasote help

[snowey]

QUOTE: Originally posted by n2mopac

Just responding to all your helpful advice, I went to the homasote web site and found that only about 5 places in all of Missouri (yes I'm in Missouri too) carry it. The only one within 100 miles of me is in Jefferson City, over 40 miles away. I have used extruded foam for scenery, but havn't tried it for roadbed. My primary concern is in yards, and extruded foam would probably work well there in 1/2 " thicknesses. I assume with foam you have to glue the track down. What is the best glue for this that won't attack the foam? I know I've read the answer to that question in MR in the past, but can't remember. Thanks again for everyone's input.
Ron

any of the water-based glues works fine with foam, for instance white glue like Elmers and Elmers carpenters wood glue. Woodland Scenics sells a white glue called "Foam-Tak glue" that also works fine. You may find, though, that the tip on the bottle clogs easily after a few times. Just use white glue from a craft or home improvment store, and you'll be fine.
Whatever glue you use, though, just make sure its water based, along with other things that go on the foam like paintt, scenery materials, etc.

[snowey]

QUOTE: Originally posted by n2mopac

Just responding to all your helpful advice, I went to the homasote web site and found that only about 5 places in all of Missouri (yes I'm in Missouri too) carry it. The only one within 100 miles of me is in Jefferson City, over 40 miles away. I have used extruded foam for scenery, but havn't tried it for roadbed. My primary concern is in yards, and extruded foam would probably work well there in 1/2 " thicknesses. I assume with foam you have to glue the track down. What is the best glue for this that won't attack the foam? I know I've read the answer to that question in MR in the past, but can't remember. Thanks again for everyone's input.
Ron

any of the water-based glues works fine with foam, for instance white glue like Elmers and Elmers carpenters wood glue. Woodland Scenics sells a white glue called "Foam-Tak glue" that also works fine. You may find, though, that the tip on the bottle clogs easily after a few times. Just use white glue from a craft or home improvment store, and you'll be fine.
Whatever glue you use, though, just make sure its water based, along with other things that go on the foam like paintt, scenery materials, etc.

[Anonymous]

You can build a box from 1X4 the outside size of the section. Then put 1X4 sideways in the box every 16" to bring the foam even with the top of the box. Glue the foam in. 2" will work fine this way and will be lighter. 3 inch foam can be used on 24 inch centers and on 8 foot modules seem to be lighter. I misspoke a little, you glue up mountains yet from foam. You carve in ditches and streams. A yard will work on 1/2 plywood and cork sheets or tile too, no foam. I have used damaged 2X4 ceiling tiles glued to plwood too. Ceiling tile also makes great limestone cuts. Also, RTV Silicon works as a glue too. I use clear RTV gasket silicon from autoparts. I use it to stick down buildings and glue foam to wood and paper. It's semi-permant. It will stick a plastic building down to just about anything with only four spots. You can then remove them later for whatever. It also don't soak in and is great for attaching backboards and pictures to backboards. Avoid hotmelt glue on foam, but works great on ceiling tile. I hot melt glued a scene TO the CEILING, a barn, track, trees, and cattle. It's funny.

[Anonymous]

You can build a box from 1X4 the outside size of the section. Then put 1X4 sideways in the box every 16" to bring the foam even with the top of the box. Glue the foam in. 2" will work fine this way and will be lighter. 3 inch foam can be used on 24 inch centers and on 8 foot modules seem to be lighter. I misspoke a little, you glue up mountains yet from foam. You carve in ditches and streams. A yard will work on 1/2 plywood and cork sheets or tile too, no foam. I have used damaged 2X4 ceiling tiles glued to plwood too. Ceiling tile also makes great limestone cuts. Also, RTV Silicon works as a glue too. I use clear RTV gasket silicon from autoparts. I use it to stick down buildings and glue foam to wood and paper. It's semi-permant. It will stick a plastic building down to just about anything with only four spots. You can then remove them later for whatever. It also don't soak in and is great for attaching backboards and pictures to backboards. Avoid hotmelt glue on foam, but works great on ceiling tile. I hot melt glued a scene TO the CEILING, a barn, track, trees, and cattle. It's funny.

[ClinchValleySD40]

To each his own. I have always used 1/2 inch Homasote over 1/2 inch plywood and have never in 30 years had a problem. I am building a new layout, quite large, and would not even consider anything else.

[ClinchValleySD40]

To each his own. I have always used 1/2 inch Homasote over 1/2 inch plywood and have never in 30 years had a problem. I am building a new layout, quite large, and would not even consider anything else.

[Anonymous]

LOL ... 1 person takes offence because I say that homasote is the old fashion way, another states he's been using it for 30 years. The discussion was he couldn't find homasote and I gave an alternatives method using modern space age materials that are avalible anywhere. No one says you have to use them! I assumed anyone who had a computer and therefore access to this board might be open to modern technology and not stuck in the 70's, guess I was mistaken. Let's try this, anyone modeling steam and first generation diesel use homasote and DC, everyone else can use foam and DCC (LOL).

[Anonymous]

LOL ... 1 person takes offence because I say that homasote is the old fashion way, another states he's been using it for 30 years. The discussion was he couldn't find homasote and I gave an alternatives method using modern space age materials that are avalible anywhere. No one says you have to use them! I assumed anyone who had a computer and therefore access to this board might be open to modern technology and not stuck in the 70's, guess I was mistaken. Let's try this, anyone modeling steam and first generation diesel use homasote and DC, everyone else can use foam and DCC (LOL).

[BR60103]

I have found that using a panel saw with a knife blade cuts Homasote beautifully with no dust. It makes a perfectly smooth cut. The knife blade, however, is almost as hard to find as Homasote.
Cautions on this: Do not push; let the saw travel at the speed it wants. Otherwise the blade heats up and de-tempers. Let the saw rest at intervals -- same reason.
Be careful about what's below the Homasote -- the blade will not cut wood supports, sawhorses or plywood sub-roadbed.

[BR60103]

I have found that using a panel saw with a knife blade cuts Homasote beautifully with no dust. It makes a perfectly smooth cut. The knife blade, however, is almost as hard to find as Homasote.
Cautions on this: Do not push; let the saw travel at the speed it wants. Otherwise the blade heats up and de-tempers. Let the saw rest at intervals -- same reason.
Be careful about what's below the Homasote -- the blade will not cut wood supports, sawhorses or plywood sub-roadbed.

[n2mopac]

QUOTE: Originally posted by flee307

I misspoke a little, you glue up mountains yet from foam. You carve in ditches and streams. A yard will work on 1/2 plywood and cork sheets or tile too, no foam.

Do I understand you correctly to say that you would not use foam under a yard (either 2"-3" alone or 1/2" on plywood)? Why? Is there some problem I am not seeing with putting paralles yard tracks on a foam roadbed base? Here is another issue/possibility for my main line. Woodland Scenics makes a foam roadbed product. I seems like it would deaden sound pretty well, but I'm not sure about its all around performance and I don't know how its price would compare to good old cork. I have used cork always before and am happy with its workability, but my goal is to find something that deadens sound a little better on plywood. That is why I was considering homasote and would consider foam, especially in a hard where It will rest on a large plywood base. Keep the suggestions coming, tegether we will find a great solution that I will love i'm sure. Thanks all.
Ron

[n2mopac]

QUOTE: Originally posted by flee307

I misspoke a little, you glue up mountains yet from foam. You carve in ditches and streams. A yard will work on 1/2 plywood and cork sheets or tile too, no foam.

Do I understand you correctly to say that you would not use foam under a yard (either 2"-3" alone or 1/2" on plywood)? Why? Is there some problem I am not seeing with putting paralles yard tracks on a foam roadbed base? Here is another issue/possibility for my main line. Woodland Scenics makes a foam roadbed product. I seems like it would deaden sound pretty well, but I'm not sure about its all around performance and I don't know how its price would compare to good old cork. I have used cork always before and am happy with its workability, but my goal is to find something that deadens sound a little better on plywood. That is why I was considering homasote and would consider foam, especially in a hard where It will rest on a large plywood base. Keep the suggestions coming, tegether we will find a great solution that I will love i'm sure. Thanks all.
Ron

[Anonymous]

The 1/2 foam is fine on 1/2 plywood. I was talking about the cost. Using those 2 products cost more than some other methods. Foam really quiets motor noise down the best. I didn't understand that was a concern of yours. I do HO and motor noise doesn't concern me as much it seems to matter to N scalers. I guess from talking to and seeing N locos they grind a bit more than HO, is that correct? Try sticking it to the plywood with Silicon in caulk tubes. This should further dampen sound transfer.

[Anonymous]

The 1/2 foam is fine on 1/2 plywood. I was talking about the cost. Using those 2 products cost more than some other methods. Foam really quiets motor noise down the best. I didn't understand that was a concern of yours. I do HO and motor noise doesn't concern me as much it seems to matter to N scalers. I guess from talking to and seeing N locos they grind a bit more than HO, is that correct? Try sticking it to the plywood with Silicon in caulk tubes. This should further dampen sound transfer.

[n2mopac]

I think the problem with N scale noise over larger scales has to do with weight. The 1:1 physics don not change, and the weight of an HO or larger engine helps dampen the vibration between the motor and the tracks. That vibration in N scale really reverberates through cork and plywood, and the larger the plywood piece the worse it is. It is too bad too, becaue I really like working with the cork. Plus, it is more difficult to use sound in N scale to cover up that noise. I know new products are coming out all the time, but so far the only ones that are close to sounding good are way out of my price range.
Ron

[n2mopac]

I think the problem with N scale noise over larger scales has to do with weight. The 1:1 physics don not change, and the weight of an HO or larger engine helps dampen the vibration between the motor and the tracks. That vibration in N scale really reverberates through cork and plywood, and the larger the plywood piece the worse it is. It is too bad too, becaue I really like working with the cork. Plus, it is more difficult to use sound in N scale to cover up that noise. I know new products are coming out all the time, but so far the only ones that are close to sounding good are way out of my price range.
Ron