One more......
Keith-Bportrail
Hoppers eh?
"Being misunderstood is the fate of all true geniuses"
EXPERIMENTATION TO BRING INNOVATION
http://community.webshots.com/album/288541251nntnEK?start=588
bportrail wrote: Detailed Accurail "KCS" Hopper.... Keith-Bportrail
Detailed Accurail "KCS" Hopper....
I'll take 3.
My Visa charge card is 3421 7665 4213 5565 exp. date 4/12/09
I trust you guys like family.
LOL!! I just saw some of these coming thru my town today! They do attract the dirt and the Graffitti!
Keith
I guess the KCS hopper just begs for it.............
or
Great minds think a like?
Here's a group of freight cars. Most started as cheapies purchased second hand. New trucks and couplers were installed along with a few details if needed. Then I wethered them. It's an inexpensive way to build a fleet of freight cars. The trailing diesel unit is an F2 made from a very old Varney plastic shell fitted on a second hand dummy Athearn chassis.
My steel mill utilizes second hand Baldwin switchers made by Athearm. The steel company did not repaint the engines, but instead simply applied numbers and yellow safety paint on railings and steps. Then the grime took over.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
Heres one of mine, Atlas.
Flat white paint, and green powder.
"Rust, whats not to love?"
Thanks for the compliments guys.
Robby, that boxcar is looking great! What technique did you use to fade the paint?
Jeremy
Driline wrote: mtrails wrote: AggroJones wrote: CMLewis wrote: AggroJones wrote: I am a man of peace. Everyone knows that. Most of the time, airbrushing a wash of off-white paint, gouche, or oil will give you a decent fade.Hmmm, "gouche", I'm not sure I understand. Are you referring to this? Definition #8 perhaps. It is in keeping with earlier responses. (Warning: some may find this offensive. For mature audiences only. Keep out of reach of children. Not to be taken seriously. I warned you.)http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=goucheAhh "gouache", that's better. Heavier stuff, I see, but why does that work better in a wash which, presumably, is sustantially thinned down?ChrisJer constantly proves himself to be a #8! "HAR!" Too bad...Gouache may not work better than oil or acrylic. But it can be used for a fade. It is an option.Thanks. It was a bad time for me to log on to the computer that night, let alone clicking the link to my favorite thread here, and it was none of my business stepping in. I sincerely apologize to everyone about my fireball a couple days ago. I don't wish to make waves. I hope my apology will be accepted, and that i may continue to participate here without animosity. Weathering for me is the most difficult challenge I face in realistic model railroading. Here is my first, and only locomotive I weathered with black powder. i'm pretty satisfied with the results, as I haven't had much luck with powders on railcars... Jeremy[img]http://www.montana-rails.com/sp7514.jpg[img]Actually I like your weathering techniques best. They are smooth and subtle. Blending in seamlessly as taken from a photograph.
mtrails wrote: AggroJones wrote: CMLewis wrote: AggroJones wrote: I am a man of peace. Everyone knows that. Most of the time, airbrushing a wash of off-white paint, gouche, or oil will give you a decent fade.Hmmm, "gouche", I'm not sure I understand. Are you referring to this? Definition #8 perhaps. It is in keeping with earlier responses. (Warning: some may find this offensive. For mature audiences only. Keep out of reach of children. Not to be taken seriously. I warned you.)http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=goucheAhh "gouache", that's better. Heavier stuff, I see, but why does that work better in a wash which, presumably, is sustantially thinned down?ChrisJer constantly proves himself to be a #8! "HAR!" Too bad...Gouache may not work better than oil or acrylic. But it can be used for a fade. It is an option.Thanks. It was a bad time for me to log on to the computer that night, let alone clicking the link to my favorite thread here, and it was none of my business stepping in. I sincerely apologize to everyone about my fireball a couple days ago. I don't wish to make waves. I hope my apology will be accepted, and that i may continue to participate here without animosity. Weathering for me is the most difficult challenge I face in realistic model railroading. Here is my first, and only locomotive I weathered with black powder. i'm pretty satisfied with the results, as I haven't had much luck with powders on railcars... Jeremy[img]http://www.montana-rails.com/sp7514.jpg[img]
AggroJones wrote: CMLewis wrote: AggroJones wrote: I am a man of peace. Everyone knows that. Most of the time, airbrushing a wash of off-white paint, gouche, or oil will give you a decent fade.Hmmm, "gouche", I'm not sure I understand. Are you referring to this? Definition #8 perhaps. It is in keeping with earlier responses. (Warning: some may find this offensive. For mature audiences only. Keep out of reach of children. Not to be taken seriously. I warned you.)http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=goucheAhh "gouache", that's better. Heavier stuff, I see, but why does that work better in a wash which, presumably, is sustantially thinned down?ChrisJer constantly proves himself to be a #8! "HAR!" Too bad...Gouache may not work better than oil or acrylic. But it can be used for a fade. It is an option.
CMLewis wrote: AggroJones wrote: I am a man of peace. Everyone knows that. Most of the time, airbrushing a wash of off-white paint, gouche, or oil will give you a decent fade.Hmmm, "gouche", I'm not sure I understand. Are you referring to this? Definition #8 perhaps. It is in keeping with earlier responses. (Warning: some may find this offensive. For mature audiences only. Keep out of reach of children. Not to be taken seriously. I warned you.)http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=goucheAhh "gouache", that's better. Heavier stuff, I see, but why does that work better in a wash which, presumably, is sustantially thinned down?Chris
AggroJones wrote: I am a man of peace. Everyone knows that. Most of the time, airbrushing a wash of off-white paint, gouche, or oil will give you a decent fade.
I am a man of peace. Everyone knows that.
Most of the time, airbrushing a wash of off-white paint, gouche, or oil will give you a decent fade.
Hmmm, "gouche", I'm not sure I understand. Are you referring to this? Definition #8 perhaps. It is in keeping with earlier responses. (Warning: some may find this offensive. For mature audiences only. Keep out of reach of children. Not to be taken seriously. I warned you.)
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=gouche
Ahh "gouache", that's better. Heavier stuff, I see, but why does that work better in a wash which, presumably, is sustantially thinned down?
Chris
Jer constantly proves himself to be a #8! "HAR!" Too bad...
Gouache may not work better than oil or acrylic. But it can be used for a fade. It is an option.
Thanks. It was a bad time for me to log on to the computer that night, let alone clicking the link to my favorite thread here, and it was none of my business stepping in. I sincerely apologize to everyone about my fireball a couple days ago. I don't wish to make waves. I hope my apology will be accepted, and that i may continue to participate here without animosity.
Weathering for me is the most difficult challenge I face in realistic model railroading. Here is my first, and only locomotive I weathered with black powder. i'm pretty satisfied with the results, as I haven't had much luck with powders on railcars...
[img]http://www.montana-rails.com/sp7514.jpg[img]
Actually I like your weathering techniques best. They are smooth and subtle. Blending in seamlessly as taken from a photograph.
Dave Vollmer wrote: The photo is much better.The weathering, though, doesn't really look all that convincing. Ther reason for that is that it doesn't look like you gave thought to exactly how a steam engine weathers. For example, you'd find much more rust on the firebox and ashpan than on the boiler jacket. You may also see calcium stains on the steam dome. You'd see soot on the smokebox, etc...
The photo is much better.
The weathering, though, doesn't really look all that convincing. Ther reason for that is that it doesn't look like you gave thought to exactly how a steam engine weathers. For example, you'd find much more rust on the firebox and ashpan than on the boiler jacket. You may also see calcium stains on the steam dome. You'd see soot on the smokebox, etc...
Thank you for the explanation! I really didn't realize that, but I understand better now. I'm young enough to have never seen steam in operation, except for museum trains. But it makes sense. I guess I never really thought about it. Good info!
Rotor
Jake: How often does the train go by? Elwood: So often you won't even notice ...
Heres my latest. I think its a good looking fade. I might change a few things on it. Make it look more realistic. Maybe even add some, air hoses, cut levers, etc. I am patching the car to a Railbox. The green paint spots will have new detail (weight limit, and Plate C).
Before:
After:
mtrails wrote: AggroJones wrote: CMLewis wrote: AggroJones wrote: I am a man of peace. Everyone knows that. Most of the time, airbrushing a wash of off-white paint, gouche, or oil will give you a decent fade.Hmmm, "gouche", I'm not sure I understand. Are you referring to this? Definition #8 perhaps. It is in keeping with earlier responses. (Warning: some may find this offensive. For mature audiences only. Keep out of reach of children. Not to be taken seriously. I warned you.)http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=goucheAhh "gouache", that's better. Heavier stuff, I see, but why does that work better in a wash which, presumably, is sustantially thinned down?ChrisJer constantly proves himself to be a #8! "HAR!" Too bad...Gouache may not work better than oil or acrylic. But it can be used for a fade. It is an option.Thanks. It was a bad time for me to log on to the computer that night, let alone clicking the link to my favorite thread here, and it was none of my business stepping in. I sincerely apologize to everyone about my fireball a couple days ago. I don't wish to make waves. I hope my apology will be accepted, and that i may continue to participate here without animosity. Weathering for me is the most difficult challenge I face in realistic model railroading. Here is my first, and only locomotive I weathered with black powder. i'm pretty satisfied with the results, as I haven't had much luck with powders on railcars... Jeremy
mtrails wrote: I don't have facility for airbrushing, so I tried dabbing with a brush to get rust patches. Jeremy
Thats fine cause most rust patches and streaks come from various types of brushes anyway.
Great looking high nose!
Here's my latest attempt: Actualy my best and worst looking boxcar. I used Floquil grimy black, rust, and reefer white. I don't have facility for airbrushing, so I tried dabbing with a brush to get rust patches.
Jeremy,
Very nice.
I don't have anything finished weathered wise but here is something close.
Montana Rail Link #680. P2K SD45 that I added the high nose and custom painted and weathered. It still needs just a little more, and I mean a little.
--Zak Gardner
My Layout Blog: http://mrl369dude.blogspot.com
http://zgardner18.rrpicturearchives.net
VIEW SLIDE SHOW: CLICK ON PHOTO BELOW
Dave Vollmer wrote: The photo is much better.The weathering, though, doesn't really look all that convincing. Ther reason for that is that it doesn't look like you gave thought to exactly how a steam engine weathers. For example, you'd find much more rust on the firebox and ashpan than on the boiler jacket. You may also see calcium stains on the steam dome. You'd see soot on the smokebox, etc.Rather than try to figure that all out (which requires a decent handle on how a steam engine works), an easier bet is simply to look at photos of the prototype to see how they really weathered.My guess is you've got Bachmann's Spectrum K4. This is a post-war configuration of the K4s (notice the raised headlight, smoke generator on the smokebox front, and the cast-steel drop-coupler pilot).Here are a few color shots of post-war PRR K4s in service by Bud Laws from North East Rails http://www.northeast.railfan.net/prr_steam6.html)
The weathering, though, doesn't really look all that convincing. Ther reason for that is that it doesn't look like you gave thought to exactly how a steam engine weathers. For example, you'd find much more rust on the firebox and ashpan than on the boiler jacket. You may also see calcium stains on the steam dome. You'd see soot on the smokebox, etc.
Rather than try to figure that all out (which requires a decent handle on how a steam engine works), an easier bet is simply to look at photos of the prototype to see how they really weathered.
My guess is you've got Bachmann's Spectrum K4. This is a post-war configuration of the K4s (notice the raised headlight, smoke generator on the smokebox front, and the cast-steel drop-coupler pilot).
Here are a few color shots of post-war PRR K4s in service by Bud Laws from North East Rails http://www.northeast.railfan.net/prr_steam6.html)
- Luke
Modeling the Southern Pacific in the 1960's-1980's
Heres my newest car I just finished. I am in the process of doing 3 Intermountian cars for a guy. I have been working on this for a bit. Finally finished. I also said I wouldn't post here, but I thought I would try one more time.
Modeling the Rio Grande Southern First District circa 1938-1946 in HOn3.
Since it worked I will try again.............
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/
I think I win in the rust department. N scale hopper.
Riddle: There are enough letters exposed to determine the road. What is it?
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
Let me see if this worked