Wayne,
Your third photo shows a truck mounted knuckle coupler. I'm guessing because this is a shorter car than the other two. I discovered I can't get close coupling on my RPO because if I put the coupler box where I want, it interfers with the swing of the truck. Is that truck mounted box a KD product or third party?
John-NYBWIs that truck mounted box a KD product or third party?
Alright fellas... I did two things. First, I had a really close look at what is happening between the truck and the underframe now that I have my styrene insert... uh... inserted in there. It turns out that those nubs on the underframe do reach all the way down and they neatly skate around on the insert, stabilizing the car. I had installed it athwart the frame (id est, perpendicular to the track) but because I didn't glue it to anything, it rotates a little bit. But by hobbit's luck, its width is such that even if it works itself longwise to the car, its still just wide enough that the nubs ride around it. I suppose if I were to do it again I'd cut out the styrene in a circle whose outer edge was just beyond the nubs. In any case, @Overmod, I thought you'd be pleased to know that your assessment of the whole program down under there was spot on. I just did a little less of a professional fix than you might have. I don't even have a proper workbench. Still, you accurately envisioned the solution. Thanks for putting so much into it.
Second, by popular demand (JohnNYBW, I'm looking at you), I took off the bloody roof, just to lay the question to rest of anything shifting around in there or mounted on the ceiling. @Maxman, I think it was you who offered the Toothpick Trick, which worked well, thanks. So as I presumed, the only thing I found in there was about 10 cubic inches of air from a simpler, happier time. But now that I have the thing open, I want to put some weights in. I heard someone say automotive magnets or auto weights (see, I do read all the responses, even if my brain leaks the information right out again). So what are those, where's the best source for them, and which of the kajillion kinds of adhesive do I need to affix them to the floor of the car? Actually, I think I have some cement that works on magnets.
Lastly, I note that the car's couplers are low, a felicitous accident that makes putting in larger wheels (yes, yes, I won't forget to trim the brakes with a sharp blade) a more appetizing project.
Thanks again, all.
-Matt
Returning to model railroading after 40 years and taking unconscionable liberties with the SP&S, Northern Pacific and Great Northern roads in the '40s and '50s.
Oh... and DoctorWayne, I can see how those low-profile, broad-headed screws would help keep the car upright. It doesn't seem to take much. I was surprised me little sliver of plastic worked so well. Thanks for posting those photos. And you know, I've never given the time of day to a doodlebug, but that yellow one of yours is an absolute charmer and for the first time ever I actually imagined how cool it would be to have something like that come around a corner of my layout.
crossthedogI heard someone say automotive magnets or auto weights (see, I do read all the responses, even if my brain leaks the information right out again).
Magnets? I don't see any reason for magnets. I have scores of various weights on hand but THESE are handy and have self adhesive strips attached.
I'm sure others will chime in with other suggestions.
Good Luck, Ed
gmpullmanI don't see any reason for magnets. I have scores of various weights on hand but THESE are handy and have self adhesive strips attached.
This might help:
https://www.nmra.org/beginner/weight
A handy printable page:
https://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/standards/sandrp/pdf/rp-20.1.pdf
Regards, Ed
John-NYBWYour third photo shows a truck mounted knuckle coupler. I'm guessing because this is a shorter car than the other two....
crossthedog ... And you know, I've never given the time of day to a doodlebug, but that yellow one of yours is an absolute charmer and for the first time ever I actually imagined how cool it would be to have something like that come around a corner of my layout.
And you know, I've never given the time of day to a doodlebug, but that yellow one of yours is an absolute charmer and for the first time ever I actually imagined how cool it would be to have something like that come around a corner of my layout.
Your kind assessment of my doodlebug is much appreciated, as it's one of my favourite kitbashes.
If anybody wants to add weight to their rolling stock, or locomotives, the stick-on tire-balancing weights are easy to use, and, since they're generally made for sticking on wheels that travel though all sorts of weather, they're likely to stay exactly where you put them.
I use discarded tire weights, available for free from many tire outlets, and melt them down to cast my own weights.That includes weights for rolling stock, of course, but also weights to improve the pulling abilities of model steam engines.There are usually lots of places to conceal added weight, but some weights can be right out in the open, with viewers none-the-wiser...
Here's some lead-filled brass tubing standing in for steam pipes...
...and stainless steel water pipes, also filled with lead, in their role as compressed air reservoirs...
Air reservoirs are easy enough to make, and pretty-well all steam locos have 'em (three on this one)...
Some Bachmann Consolidations with replacement air tanks...
...and a bunch of Athearn Mikes, too...
If you want to make your own weights for passenger cars, there's some info illustrated
HERE
Wayne
Matt-
If you're not planning to install an interior in your RPO, I'd suggest just using some silicone sealant or bathtub caulk to glue some pennies to the floor. They're cheaper than automative wheel-balancing weights, aren't as toxic as lead, and are readily available. Typical USian pennies are about a tenth of an ounce apiece.
Using silicone caulk is preferable, since it stays flexible and bonds well to both plastic and metal. ACC/superglue is too brittle and tends to shear in such applications, and most contact cements aren't great at adhering to metal.
-Fritz Milhaupt, Publications Editor, Pere Marquette Historical Society, Inc.http://www.pmhistsoc.org
I used to use silicone caulk to keep weights in place, but over time, the bond failed (lots of those cars were stored on their sides in their original boxes, if not on the layout, and I'm sure that over time, that contributed to the failure of the bonds)
Nowadays, a lot of the weights are held in place like this...
...as the plastic-to-plastic bonds are much more permanent.
This one's about the same weight...
Many of my freight cars done in this manner weigh around 6 oz., and track well. Once the lead weights are in place, there's no need to handle the lead...out of sight, out of mind.
The listing problem came back... I thought my styrene insert had fixed it but it started happening again. But I finally found a more solid solution. Remember that double-ring collar on the top of the truck in the photo I posted earlier in this thread?
Here's whatcha do:
1) File that puppy down to flat. I used a file to start, finished with a sharp blade. Just scrape it all out of there. This enables the truck to be closer to those stabilizing nubs.
2) When you put the pin back through the truck, insert three Kadee #205 washers between the bottom of the truck and the head of the pin. This makes up for the material removed from under the pin and keeps things tight. Four was too many.
My RPO now listeth no more. Still jitters like a ninny, even though I added weight to bring the total weight to just under 6 ounces. Someday I may buy better trucks for it to see if that calms its nerves, but for now I'm happy. At least it rides straight up and down.
Selah.