DrW Overmod You might be more concerned with the truck frames than detailing on the bodies. PA trucks are not right for any, and the earliest had a distinctly different type. Dale had this problem in reverse when restoring 'NKP 190'... Could you please elaborate on this? I model the Santa Fe, and the truck frames on the P2K Erie-built SF model look very much like pics of the prototype. Thanks JW
Overmod You might be more concerned with the truck frames than detailing on the bodies. PA trucks are not right for any, and the earliest had a distinctly different type. Dale had this problem in reverse when restoring 'NKP 190'...
You might be more concerned with the truck frames than detailing on the bodies. PA trucks are not right for any, and the earliest had a distinctly different type.
Dale had this problem in reverse when restoring 'NKP 190'...
They're close, and if you want to call it close enough, that's ok by me. I think the FM truck has another brake cylinder on the middle wheelset, and is slightly flattened on the top.
Gary
DrWCould you please elaborate on this? I model the Santa Fe, and the truck frames on the P2K Erie-built SF model look very much like pics of the prototype.
NKP 190 was given a pair of ex-Erie-Built trucks (from the rail-grinding train) as the original ATSF PA trucks were lost or kept in Mexico and no comparable replacements, in standard gauge at least, available. There has been some discussion on the differences in various forums over the years.
The easiest thing to do with those "cut traces" boards is to remove it and replace the board with an Athearn/Atlas form factor decoder. The wires go to almost the exact same points on the decoder board, making it super easy.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
richhotrain Were the Proto 1000's DCC Ready? Rich
Were the Proto 1000's DCC Ready?
Rich
Sort of. All of the models I have, F3, C-Liner, Erie-Built, the motor is isolated from the frame. There is a circuit board with traces to cut and pads to solder to:
https://tcsdcc.com/installation/ho-scale/1377
I never owned a Proto 1000, but I seem to recall that the motor is isolated from the frame. However, there is no plug for easy conversion to DCC.
Alton Junction
Good question, Rich. While I do have a few pieces of Proto 1000 rolling stock, I do not own any Proto 1000 locomotives. I would assume they were DCC-ready but maybe Ed and others can confirm or deny that.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
tstage UP, My understanding is that the Proto 1000 & 2000 shared the same mechanism. The differences, therefore, are found on the shell. The Proto 2000s, as mentioned, will have better detailing but both should run equally well. Tom
UP,
My understanding is that the Proto 1000 & 2000 shared the same mechanism. The differences, therefore, are found on the shell. The Proto 2000s, as mentioned, will have better detailing but both should run equally well.
I have a UP A/B set that run great. The details on the P1K Erie-Builts are kind of a mish-mash; I'm not sure that they're right for any railroad.
http://www.trainweb.org/jaydeet/erie.htm
Phase Ia: the original carbody with square front windshields, step roof over the cab, stainless steel grills, and the raised sections on the nose for the class lights. UP 50-M-1A,2A,3B would be Phase Ia1 since they had two horizontal grabs in the rear side corner recess instead of vertical handrails in the recess. Phase Ib: the stainless grills were eliminated and the middle stirrup step was eliminated in favor of steps in the fuel tank. Phase IIa: the curved windshields, smooth cab roof, smooth nose for the class lights, and a straight middle stirrup step appeared. The recesses at the back side corner were filled in but the handrails were still recessed. (I haven't been able to confirm this, but C&NW 5001A may have had the full recess. C&NW's other three Eries had the filled recess, though.) Phase IIb: the recesses disappear completely.
Phase Ia: the original carbody with square front windshields, step roof over the cab, stainless steel grills, and the raised sections on the nose for the class lights.
UP 50-M-1A,2A,3B would be Phase Ia1 since they had two horizontal grabs in the rear side corner recess instead of vertical handrails in the recess.
Phase Ib: the stainless grills were eliminated and the middle stirrup step was eliminated in favor of steps in the fuel tank.
Phase IIa: the curved windshields, smooth cab roof, smooth nose for the class lights, and a straight middle stirrup step appeared. The recesses at the back side corner were filled in but the handrails were still recessed. (I haven't been able to confirm this, but C&NW 5001A may have had the full recess. C&NW's other three Eries had the filled recess, though.)
Phase IIb: the recesses disappear completely.
ETA: https://mrr.trains.com/news-reviews/staff-reviews/2001/02/life-like-proto-1000-ho-scale-fm-erie-built-diesels
UnionPacific8444I found a PROTO1000AT&SF ERIE-BUILT (A unit and B unit, both with motor) at an online hobby shop for $116 new old stock. I'm planning on buying it, but before that, I have a few questions. Is this a good deal?
I have been looking for undecorated Proto 1000 Eries builts since they were introduced, and never found one. I am beginning to believe the undecorated models were never manufactured.
I would buy them, especially if that $116.00 is for both of the models.
I have not owned one myself, but I know an A/B set ran at a hobby shop here in Florida for more than a decade. That seems pretty solid to me.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I have a P1K RSC-3. I got it very cheap brand new when Walthers picked up Life-Like. I installed an early Tsunami sound decoder and replaced the headlights with LEDs. It's always been one of my favorites.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I have an A-B-A set that I bought on EBay 5 years ago, also "new" (unused). I think your price at less than $60 each is very reasonable if NOS and undamaged.
I also have Proto 2000 E units and PA/PB passenger cab units. Plus a number of P1K & P2K freight cab and hood units. The detail differences I see for the passenger units are that the P1K Erie Builts lack lifting lugs atop, have cast on door handrails and a simple rear door frame extension to represent a diaphragm. The P2K units have lifting lugs, separate door handrails (which are breakable, of course) and a fancier rear door diaphragm. Not a lot of difference, I'd say. The Erie Builts have w/s wipers like the P2K units.
I like them all, they run like the P2Ks with the LokSound Select decoders. I had to replace some cracked gears on the E units, a problem more often found on the early 4-axle Life-Like Protos IIRC. If you run into that, note that different models have different number of teeth on the axle gears (and different size wheels).
I converted all the aforementioned diesels to DCC (LokSound Select), using either dual 1.1" speakers or multi-speaker micros. In the Erie Builts I added quad micros, just for fun.
I like all the early Proto diesels, including the variety of types in my UP scheme. Of course a new Genesis, etc. has lots more detail, so it is up to you. It is tough to find particular loco types in a road name you want, so it is often a good choice to go with the NOS units when available.
EDIT: It dawned on me that I might have made a video of the Erie Builts after conversion to DCC/sound. Here is the (fuzzy) video.
https://youtu.be/FV_geR-Pmw8
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Thanks! Your layout looks very nice!
Thank you very much!
My experience wth these models is much like Ed's. I'm very pleased with them.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
I bought my A-B-A set when Life-Like first introduced them, must be twenty years now. They have run flawlessly and consistently since new.
NYC_Erieblt by Edmund, on Flickr
Detail level is on par with a typical mid-range model, no added grab irons or hand rails. Body details are nice and seem accurate.
Running quality is superb. They are quiet and smooth runners and pull very well.
Most of the pre-Walthers Life-Like stuff I've bought lately, new old stock, seems to be in the $80-100 per unit range so $116+ for an A-B set is in the ball park. I have found better "deals" but these usually come up at train shows.
Good Luck, Ed
I found a PROTO1000AT&SF ERIE-BUILT (A unit and B unit, both with motor) at an online hobby shop for $116 new old stock. I'm planning on buying it, but before that, I have a few questions. Is this a good deal? Does anybody have a PROTO1000 ERIE-BUILT, and what are your thoughts on the model? Also, where do PROTO1000 ERIE-BUILTs stand for detail?