Well, its been a year or so since the OP posted his query. I wonder if he decided on anything, and actually got it in operation.........
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
I use a folding plastic table about 5' wide about 24" deep. I have a couple cardboard boxes for tools of different types and one of those plastic multi-drawer organizers on top that I'd had since I was in high school to put things like wheels, couplers, spare parts, detail parts, etc. I have a couple cutting matts on the table too, one about 18" by 18".
Regardless of the space:
Keep it clean!
Put things away when done, clean up spilled paint or weathering powders.
Keep a trash can handy.
My workbench is mainly used for assembly, disassembly, and I keep a test track elsewhere. As well as a place to work on painting. Though with the weather so warm I set up and paint outside more often.
Alvie
I'm using an old kitchen table.
Just anything with a nice solid flat surface.
Chris van der Heide
My Algoma Central Railway Modeling Blog
My recommendation is that you have a very small work bench, because from my observation and experience, the bigger a model railroaders work bench, the Bigger the Mess!! Cheers, the Bear.
I have about 35 linear feet of work bench, since the bottom of the benchwork of my around the room layout is 51 inches from the floor. It gets messy, but I clean it up regularly. Usually VERY clean.
Perhaps something to keep in mind, building this way if possible gives you as much work area as layout area.
The work benches consist of two desks, one of which is metal; an old rectangular table, 3 different doors (one heavy) supported by short cabinets similar to filing cabinets. I see similar items to all the above on craigslist free all the time. Lotsa drawers for materials storage, plenty of bench space for tool chests, stereo underneath, power tools, etc. And a hot air corn popper!
Dan
Engi1487 (it would help if you used your name),
Living in an apartment or condo, I have moved seven times over the past 30 years, so a long time ago I designed a "workshop" in a cabinet similar to an amoire, allowing me to close the doors and hide everything. It was made from different sizes of hollow-core doors, some plywood, and cheap plastic parts cabinets and held together with bolts and screws so it could be disassembled for moving. It housed my workbench, a Unimat lathe, micro drill press, Minicraft table saw and disc sander, small bench grinder, and even a fold-away spray booth. Photos and plans are in the April 2002 Model Railroader. (Photo below)
One important part of the workshop was/is a portable work tray, allowing me to take projects to other parts of the house. [Groups.io link removed]
We have since moved to Hawaii where I am building a new layout which I have elevated to allow placing a workbench under the layout. It was built using two knock-down rolling drawer units from Amazon, bridged by a plywood workbench shelf sized to accomdate my portable work tray and backed by a pegboard panel. Below the plywood workbench in the kneehole is a shlf on drawer guides where my disc sander, table saw, and cut-off saw reside. The entire unit can be rolled out from under the layout. See Nov-Dec 2020 N Scale Magazine (Photo below)
Oops - seems I cannot insert photos in this posting. See the above references.
Tom K. MMR#101
I modified a glasstop computer desk by gluing some old small drawers to the sliding keyboard tray for tool storage. I have a file cabinet mounted on sliders under my layout for storage. And a few bins.
Joe Staten Island West
Random,
See "Build a Modular Workshop Cabinet" in the April 2002 issue of Model Railroader.
Tom
rrinker I've got 2 of those in the garage. Same legs and all. One was there when I bought the palce, and one was at work and they were going to get rid of it so I took it apart and hauled it home. Can never have too many workbenches.
I also used those same legs under my workbench in the garage, and they will be used on my layout. I have them all ready to go.
My garage workbench is ancient. It dates back to at least the 1950s, and the hardwood surface is beautifully worn. Unfortunately the only picture I have of it has a protective coating over the surface, and it is burind in the garage now.
I love Edsal industrial steel products. They are truly heavy duty, and will last lifetimes in residential usage.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I don't have permanent workbench/workspace for working on things, due to space limitations.
When I need to work on something like assembling a building kit, I usually plop my stuff on the kitchen table with a large paper towel underneath. There's adaquete lighting and a stable surface to work on.
"No one realizes how beautiful it is to travel until he comes home and rests his head on his old, familiar pillow." -Lin Yutang
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I've got 2 of those in the garage. Same legs and all. One was there when I bought the palce, and one was at work and they were going to get rid of it so I took it apart and hauled it home. Can never have too many workbenches.
My inside L shaped one - those aren't old solid core doors, they are brand new. However, they were priced more like hollow core doors. I'm willing to bet if I cut them open it will be more like particle board inside, but they are heavy and very sold. I used some small 90 degreee angle pieces to screw the top to the frame, and the screws held quite well. I got them at Lowes - and they no longer have that one, the cheapest solid door they have now is more than 2x the price I paid for these. Fastest design I came up with - I was going to make just one, as shown in the picture, but with the price for the door (under $45) and the fact that they had 2 in stock, I quiuckly came up with another idea, hoped it would fit, and bought both.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
All you need is a small folding table. There is no minimum specification for a workbench.
If you want a dream workbench specification, that will vary by personal tastes. I have three model workbenches, on for painting, one for messy work, and one for assembly.
My model assembly workbench is actually the most expensive piece of furniture in my house.
It is a steel industrial workbench made by Edsal. The work surface is solid maple butcher block. It has an electrical riser shelf, extra shelf, lower shelf, and is fully wired for AC.
I used old kitchen island for a workbench. It works and quite sturdy. NO shame getting it destoryed.
Additionally, I got a tupaware drawer set where I keep various supplies. Each drawer is categorized by type of things--electronics, scenery, etc. It was a cheap investment to avoid getting the workbench cluttered.
I am with Randy on this one, I used an old solid core door for my workbench, it is large and has room for my parts bins along with being able to add various lights, power bars etc.
This was after I moved and finally got the workbench set up, it is a lot more cluttered right now with various projects being worked on.
Rick Jesionowski
Rule 1: This is my railroad.
Rule 2: I make the rules.
Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome, but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1!
I built my workbenches using 30"x80" solid core doors that I painted white (for keeping track of tiny pieces/parts) and mounted on steel work table legs.
I think the most important thing for a modeling workbench is having a nice sized piece of (tempered) glass to work on when needed. The glass surface will be perfectly flat and easy to clean paint/glue off of. I had two pieces of 18"x24" tempered glass made by the local glass/window company.
Another helpful infrastructure items is outlet strips. I have two 48" outlet strips mounted on the wall behind/above the workbenches.
A very old photo of my workbench setup. It's much messier now. :)
Modeling an HO gauge freelance version of the Union Pacific Oregon Short Line and the Utah Railway around 1957 in a world where Pirates from the Great Salt Lake founded Ogden, UT.
- Photo album of layout construction -
I built my workbench from 2x4s, plywood and masonite. It is 32" x 72" and it is a mess. The actual open working space is about 20" x 36" including space for the soldering irons to sit.
The problem is that I don't have enough organized storage to hold the stuff that sits on the workbench. My suggestion would be to go with a smaller work surface, maybe 30" deep x 36" wide max, and spend most of your money on storage drawers and shelves. The extra 10" at the back will provide space for a tool rack, and 36" is just long enough to hold a piece of test track when needed.
Consider getting something like this tool holder:
https://www.amazon.ca/BESTONZON-Hardware-Storage-Hanging-Warehouse/dp/B07HK7F1YM/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?cv_ct_cx=hand+tool+storage+racks&keywords=hand+tool+storage+racks&pd_rd_i=B07HK7F1YM&pd_rd_r=8a64cfdd-f0be-4d46-b9c3-a238a68e0574&pd_rd_w=PdVBl&pd_rd_wg=dN6Dl&pf_rd_p=f62b3f1e-3a2b-423e-a5a7-496fc5777bbc&pf_rd_r=BJFTP9K5WW10VSTVK67V&psc=1&qid=1588039064&sr=1-51-dd5817a1-1ba7-46c2-8996-f96e7b0f409c
I also have four plastic storage units that are full to the brim with parts, paints, building materials, wire, turnouts and larger tools. I need another couple of units so I can spread the stuff out to make it easier to sort through, but I don't have space for them. These are the sort of units that I am using (the castors are useless - throw them away):
https://www.amazon.ca/IRIS-4-Drawer-Rolling-Storage-Organizer/dp/B00447NWFK/ref=sr_1_3?crid=DZVOUTNYBJQ3&keywords=plastic+storage+drawers&qid=1588037523&sprefix=plastic+storage%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-3
I also use small compartmented storage boxes like these:
https://www.amazon.ca/DUOFIRE-Organizer-Adjustable-Compartment-Accessories/dp/B078MDSL17/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=plastic+storage+boxes&qid=1588037729&sr=8-7
I can't stress the need for sufficient storage enough!
One other thing I would suggest is using a power bar to supply all the power for tools and lighting. When I am done working at the bench I can turn everything off with one switch. If the lights aren't on then the power for the tools isn't on. No hot soldering irons.
I do have a light at the end of my tunnel. Once the garage is cleaned out for my new layout there will be lots of space for additional cabinets and storage drawers.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I previously used what used to be my computer desk. It had a pull out keyboard shelf that I put some tolls on that would be hidden away when closed.
Since I moved, I built my own bench. It's a bit overkill, but it has a 2x4 frame and a solid core door for a top. Picture is of the first half, for electronics, but before I put the monitor on an arm and added the anti static mat. New part for models is the sme and comes out forming an L shape on the right hand side. But doors have multiple coats of clear satin poly. All I need to finish the model side is a large cutting mat.
It's also not even close to looking this clean even though I just cleaned it all up yesterday. The shelves have a lot more gear - once you get one, you just can't stop, there is another power supply and another benchtop multimeter, plus boxes of components. And we ripped out the carpet to expose the hardwood floors.
My recommendation is that you have a very small work bench, because from my observation and experience, the bigger a model railroaders work bench, the Bigger the Mess!!
I agree. I would also add that the top should be at least a 30 degree angle from horizontal. That helps prevent any extraneous junk from collecting on top of it.
I might have pictures of Howard Zane's workbench, but I didn't ask him if I could publish it, nor would I. To suffice to say it's a room, not a bench.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Eric Whiteand there might have been some drawers
I would hope that you returned her drawers prior to taking the dresser.
Plan ahead, you will more than likely be building multiple kit's at once. ( or is it just me ?)
I bought TWO workbenches from Harbor Freight .
The above picture is the first one. I built the second one right next to it.
This gave me An 8 X 3 foot workspace ...... that now has a 1X1 foot space left for "Actual work" !!!! I also have a large trunk that I use as a "Paint booth".
It's FULL of kit's .... which is hard to dig around in..... when their's a paint project on top !!!
Then there's the shelf's-O- Stuff....
And, I keep it ALL ....in this big box .
And even with all this "space" I STILL enrage my wife by piling projects up on her coffie table in the livingroom.
( guess I'm gonna have to find some "space" in the bathroom ....)
Rust...... It's a good thing !
Any thing will work. I use my wood shop bench. It is home made from plain lumberyard pine. 4 by 4 legs, 2 by 8 top with a masonite cover, some home made drawers for small tools. Stupid Beast was placed on the bench by hand, and leaped off and fled a few seconds after the picture was taken. She is not a shop hazard.
And we have some paint storage, small tool racks, machinists vice, and the drill press.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
dknelsonFrom time to time I do find myself prefering to stand for a given project which in my case means having to clear space on an unscenicked portion of my (rather tall) layot - not ideal.
I'm glad I'm not the only one who does that. I like to stand when I work. As I finish more and more of the layout, I'm having a harder time finding space to work.
York1 John
the Bigger the Mess!!
I think Brother Lion gets the prize for that.
My desk/room goes back to looking like the photo in between each build. I make good time on projects when I know everything is in its place and easy to find.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
I use a student desk that I picked up at a year sale several years ago.. I've also used a computer desk. I was watching a live rail cam while building a building a structure kit.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
mbinsewi I like stools, and or/standing as I work, so I built a work bench about the same way that I would build layout bench work, at stool height. Mike.
I like stools, and or/standing as I work, so I built a work bench about the same way that I would build layout bench work, at stool height.
Mike.
Just before I retired an increasing number of my colleagues were requesting work desks that they could stand to work, versus the traditional office desk. Of course they were in carpeted offices. Standing to work is good, but standing for a long time on a hard floor has its own challenges. Opinions vary on whether workbench areas (or layouts) should be carpeted.
From time to time I do find myself prefering to stand for a given project which in my case means having to clear space on an unscenicked portion of my (rather tall) layot - not ideal.
A workbench has to be sturdy above all. Not shaky like a card table. And it has to be of a nature that you no longer care if the top looks nice because there will be spills, and scratches, and holes, and soldering incidents. Mine is an old desk with a white melamine top, covered with two self healing mats.
More important than what the bench is (since we modelers can adapt to just about anything) - it has to be very well lit. And increasingly I agree with the guy who wrote the article (MR? RMC?) about adding a light UNDER the bench, where all the dropped stuff will end up. Including Kadee coupler springs and no. 77 drill bits.
I am reminded that the late E. L. Moore supposedly built his beautiful scratchbuilt structures on a TV table! He lived in very cramped quarters, perhaps a trailer.
Dave Nelson
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
I currently use an old metal government type desk I bought for around $15 when my company was getting rid of them. I have also used old dining room tables, tv tray tables, old roll top desk, and I'm sure a few other things over the years.
The best are those that are sturdy and used only as a hobby work bench. Second, you want lots of drawers - my desk has 6 drawers. I also have a Craftsman 6 drawer rolling tool cart I keep next to the desk for the tools that don't fit in the desk.
Paul
Allow plenty of storage space (*small drawers) for the small parts, pieces that accumulate as you progress in the hobby.