Currently I am beginning my journey into the hobby by starting to assemble the many car kits such as Bowser and Walthers I have accumulated and begin the process of assembling them. I have my computer desk which I can clear to do he basic cutting and using plastic cement, but what could I use for a workbench? A basic plastic folding table with storage options for tools etc.What do you use for a workbench, and recommend?
Until you have a defined space, I would use a folding table set up near a corner, near a window, or at least near outlets for a good lamp and to plug in a soldering iron, a hair dryer, or something else, maybe a power shaping tool.
You can purchase work stations and assemble them from kits, or just build one out of suitable milled lumber. I have two benches, one inside my partitioned garage train room, and a larger wooden one built by the garage builder years ago. Each has sockets nearby for powering grinders, hand saws, jig saws, spotlights, etc.
You'll also eventually want shelving and drawers, maybe stackable drawers, for paints, implements, other materials, track elements, and so on.
Your workspace will evolve to suit your needs. Get lots of little drawers (postal drawers I think they are called) and containers to store things. I also have a power bar with a variable timer on it so I never will have a soldering iron left on for long once I have left the room for the day if I were to forget to turn it off.
I have some big trunk sized tupperware/rubbermade type storage for landscaping supplies.
I find a comfortable chair and a good stereo make for a really enjoyable session in the land of magic. Oh, and I can't hear the phone from in there which makes it even better.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
For a place to work while seated, it needs to be comfortable - when I'm involved in a project, there are occasions when I'll work for 12 hours or more, without pause.
Beyond that, the work surface should be durable, preferably with storage space either on- or under the work surface. I use an old student desk that I've had since I was a student...
...and in an adjacent room, have two built-in workbenches for other work, such as soldering, filing, grinding, etc. This is one of them...
...and here is the other...
It's the same size as the other, but the paint booth has been moved to a purpose-built room in my garage, which is about 100' behind the house. This allows painting at any time, day or night (preferably the latter) without disturbing anyone.
The evolution of my work space went from a student desk in the bedroom to the same desk in a basement room, then with the addition of two more benches in an adjacent room, and now another in the garage.
I also have a non-modelling workbench in a basement closet for household repairs and another in a separate room in the garage for bigger jobs.
Wayne
Random_Idea_Poster_6263 ... but what could I use for a workbench? A basic plastic folding table with storage options for tools etc.What do you use for a workbench, and recommend?
... but what could I use for a workbench? A basic plastic folding table with storage options for tools etc.What do you use for a workbench, and recommend?
Only an official NMRA sanctioned workbench is permitted!
Ok, seriously; having worked on numerous stand-in work tables, I've found that:
If I had to buy one now, I'd check out Goodwill, the local 2nd-hand store, etc. and buy something that was stable and cheap enough that I wouldn't fret about scratching it.
Jim
I like stools instead of chairs, and sometimes I stand as I work, so I built a work bench about the same way that I would build layout bench work, at stool height.
Mike.
My You Tube
hardcoalcaseIf I had to buy one now, I'd check out Goodwill, the local 2nd-hand store, etc. and buy something that was stable and cheap enough that I wouldn't fret about scratching it.
The auction houses are a great place to get something as well.
Mine was sitting next to a dumpster at RCMP headquarters in Vancouver. They had sent all the old furniture to the government auction and they had one too many desk that could not fit in the 53' trailer that had come to pick them up. It was cheaper to chuck it out than to send the movers back to get it. So a couple of Mounties threw it in the back of my Government issue P/U truck and I transfered it into my own P/U truck back at the airport and took it home. It is the perfect work table. Apparently it came out of the forensic medical lab so I am sure it is haunted.
I've had lots of workspaces over the years.
The first I can remember was originally my mother's dressing table. It had a Formica top, sturdy legs, and there might have been some drawers.
Later, I had a student desk my grandfather built for my aunt. I think it was a kit he got from Sears made of interlocking plywood panels.
I've also had periods where I made a drafting table serve double duty - with a large cutting mat on top of it, of course.
My current space is posted on MR's Facebook page. It's a hollow core door the previous owners of my home left behind suported on 2x cleats screwed to the wall.
They also left behind a much sturdier workbench in the HVAC room in the basement. It appears to be made from recycled power line crossarms. That's where I do heavier work, including auto repairs.
Eric
Allow plenty of storage space (*small drawers) for the small parts, pieces that accumulate as you progress in the hobby.
I currently use an old metal government type desk I bought for around $15 when my company was getting rid of them. I have also used old dining room tables, tv tray tables, old roll top desk, and I'm sure a few other things over the years.
The best are those that are sturdy and used only as a hobby work bench. Second, you want lots of drawers - my desk has 6 drawers. I also have a Craftsman 6 drawer rolling tool cart I keep next to the desk for the tools that don't fit in the desk.
Paul
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
mbinsewi I like stools, and or/standing as I work, so I built a work bench about the same way that I would build layout bench work, at stool height. Mike.
I like stools, and or/standing as I work, so I built a work bench about the same way that I would build layout bench work, at stool height.
Just before I retired an increasing number of my colleagues were requesting work desks that they could stand to work, versus the traditional office desk. Of course they were in carpeted offices. Standing to work is good, but standing for a long time on a hard floor has its own challenges. Opinions vary on whether workbench areas (or layouts) should be carpeted.
From time to time I do find myself prefering to stand for a given project which in my case means having to clear space on an unscenicked portion of my (rather tall) layot - not ideal.
A workbench has to be sturdy above all. Not shaky like a card table. And it has to be of a nature that you no longer care if the top looks nice because there will be spills, and scratches, and holes, and soldering incidents. Mine is an old desk with a white melamine top, covered with two self healing mats.
More important than what the bench is (since we modelers can adapt to just about anything) - it has to be very well lit. And increasingly I agree with the guy who wrote the article (MR? RMC?) about adding a light UNDER the bench, where all the dropped stuff will end up. Including Kadee coupler springs and no. 77 drill bits.
I am reminded that the late E. L. Moore supposedly built his beautiful scratchbuilt structures on a TV table! He lived in very cramped quarters, perhaps a trailer.
Dave Nelson
I use a student desk that I picked up at a year sale several years ago.. I've also used a computer desk. I was watching a live rail cam while building a building a structure kit.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
the Bigger the Mess!!
I think Brother Lion gets the prize for that.
My desk/room goes back to looking like the photo in between each build. I make good time on projects when I know everything is in its place and easy to find.
dknelsonFrom time to time I do find myself prefering to stand for a given project which in my case means having to clear space on an unscenicked portion of my (rather tall) layot - not ideal.
I'm glad I'm not the only one who does that. I like to stand when I work. As I finish more and more of the layout, I'm having a harder time finding space to work.
York1 John
Any thing will work. I use my wood shop bench. It is home made from plain lumberyard pine. 4 by 4 legs, 2 by 8 top with a masonite cover, some home made drawers for small tools. Stupid Beast was placed on the bench by hand, and leaped off and fled a few seconds after the picture was taken. She is not a shop hazard.
And we have some paint storage, small tool racks, machinists vice, and the drill press.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
My recommendation is that you have a very small work bench, because from my observation and experience, the bigger a model railroaders work bench, the Bigger the Mess!! Cheers, the Bear.
Plan ahead, you will more than likely be building multiple kit's at once. ( or is it just me ?)
I bought TWO workbenches from Harbor Freight .
The above picture is the first one. I built the second one right next to it.
This gave me An 8 X 3 foot workspace ...... that now has a 1X1 foot space left for "Actual work" !!!! I also have a large trunk that I use as a "Paint booth".
It's FULL of kit's .... which is hard to dig around in..... when their's a paint project on top !!!
Then there's the shelf's-O- Stuff....
And, I keep it ALL ....in this big box .
And even with all this "space" I STILL enrage my wife by piling projects up on her coffie table in the livingroom.
( guess I'm gonna have to find some "space" in the bathroom ....)
Rust...... It's a good thing !
Eric Whiteand there might have been some drawers
I would hope that you returned her drawers prior to taking the dresser.
I might have pictures of Howard Zane's workbench, but I didn't ask him if I could publish it, nor would I. To suffice to say it's a room, not a bench.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
My recommendation is that you have a very small work bench, because from my observation and experience, the bigger a model railroaders work bench, the Bigger the Mess!!
I agree. I would also add that the top should be at least a 30 degree angle from horizontal. That helps prevent any extraneous junk from collecting on top of it.
I previously used what used to be my computer desk. It had a pull out keyboard shelf that I put some tolls on that would be hidden away when closed.
Since I moved, I built my own bench. It's a bit overkill, but it has a 2x4 frame and a solid core door for a top. Picture is of the first half, for electronics, but before I put the monitor on an arm and added the anti static mat. New part for models is the sme and comes out forming an L shape on the right hand side. But doors have multiple coats of clear satin poly. All I need to finish the model side is a large cutting mat.
It's also not even close to looking this clean even though I just cleaned it all up yesterday. The shelves have a lot more gear - once you get one, you just can't stop, there is another power supply and another benchtop multimeter, plus boxes of components. And we ripped out the carpet to expose the hardwood floors.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I built my workbench from 2x4s, plywood and masonite. It is 32" x 72" and it is a mess. The actual open working space is about 20" x 36" including space for the soldering irons to sit.
The problem is that I don't have enough organized storage to hold the stuff that sits on the workbench. My suggestion would be to go with a smaller work surface, maybe 30" deep x 36" wide max, and spend most of your money on storage drawers and shelves. The extra 10" at the back will provide space for a tool rack, and 36" is just long enough to hold a piece of test track when needed.
Consider getting something like this tool holder:
https://www.amazon.ca/BESTONZON-Hardware-Storage-Hanging-Warehouse/dp/B07HK7F1YM/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?cv_ct_cx=hand+tool+storage+racks&keywords=hand+tool+storage+racks&pd_rd_i=B07HK7F1YM&pd_rd_r=8a64cfdd-f0be-4d46-b9c3-a238a68e0574&pd_rd_w=PdVBl&pd_rd_wg=dN6Dl&pf_rd_p=f62b3f1e-3a2b-423e-a5a7-496fc5777bbc&pf_rd_r=BJFTP9K5WW10VSTVK67V&psc=1&qid=1588039064&sr=1-51-dd5817a1-1ba7-46c2-8996-f96e7b0f409c
I also have four plastic storage units that are full to the brim with parts, paints, building materials, wire, turnouts and larger tools. I need another couple of units so I can spread the stuff out to make it easier to sort through, but I don't have space for them. These are the sort of units that I am using (the castors are useless - throw them away):
https://www.amazon.ca/IRIS-4-Drawer-Rolling-Storage-Organizer/dp/B00447NWFK/ref=sr_1_3?crid=DZVOUTNYBJQ3&keywords=plastic+storage+drawers&qid=1588037523&sprefix=plastic+storage%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-3
I also use small compartmented storage boxes like these:
https://www.amazon.ca/DUOFIRE-Organizer-Adjustable-Compartment-Accessories/dp/B078MDSL17/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=plastic+storage+boxes&qid=1588037729&sr=8-7
I can't stress the need for sufficient storage enough!
One other thing I would suggest is using a power bar to supply all the power for tools and lighting. When I am done working at the bench I can turn everything off with one switch. If the lights aren't on then the power for the tools isn't on. No hot soldering irons.
I do have a light at the end of my tunnel. Once the garage is cleaned out for my new layout there will be lots of space for additional cabinets and storage drawers.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I built my workbenches using 30"x80" solid core doors that I painted white (for keeping track of tiny pieces/parts) and mounted on steel work table legs.
I think the most important thing for a modeling workbench is having a nice sized piece of (tempered) glass to work on when needed. The glass surface will be perfectly flat and easy to clean paint/glue off of. I had two pieces of 18"x24" tempered glass made by the local glass/window company.
Another helpful infrastructure items is outlet strips. I have two 48" outlet strips mounted on the wall behind/above the workbenches.
A very old photo of my workbench setup. It's much messier now. :)
Modeling an HO gauge freelance version of the Union Pacific Oregon Short Line and the Utah Railway around 1957 in a world where Pirates from the Great Salt Lake founded Ogden, UT.
- Photo album of layout construction -
I am with Randy on this one, I used an old solid core door for my workbench, it is large and has room for my parts bins along with being able to add various lights, power bars etc.
This was after I moved and finally got the workbench set up, it is a lot more cluttered right now with various projects being worked on.
Rick Jesionowski
Rule 1: This is my railroad.
Rule 2: I make the rules.
Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome, but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1!
I used old kitchen island for a workbench. It works and quite sturdy. NO shame getting it destoryed.
Additionally, I got a tupaware drawer set where I keep various supplies. Each drawer is categorized by type of things--electronics, scenery, etc. It was a cheap investment to avoid getting the workbench cluttered.
All you need is a small folding table. There is no minimum specification for a workbench.
If you want a dream workbench specification, that will vary by personal tastes. I have three model workbenches, on for painting, one for messy work, and one for assembly.
My model assembly workbench is actually the most expensive piece of furniture in my house.
It is a steel industrial workbench made by Edsal. The work surface is solid maple butcher block. It has an electrical riser shelf, extra shelf, lower shelf, and is fully wired for AC.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I've got 2 of those in the garage. Same legs and all. One was there when I bought the palce, and one was at work and they were going to get rid of it so I took it apart and hauled it home. Can never have too many workbenches.
My inside L shaped one - those aren't old solid core doors, they are brand new. However, they were priced more like hollow core doors. I'm willing to bet if I cut them open it will be more like particle board inside, but they are heavy and very sold. I used some small 90 degreee angle pieces to screw the top to the frame, and the screws held quite well. I got them at Lowes - and they no longer have that one, the cheapest solid door they have now is more than 2x the price I paid for these. Fastest design I came up with - I was going to make just one, as shown in the picture, but with the price for the door (under $45) and the fact that they had 2 in stock, I quiuckly came up with another idea, hoped it would fit, and bought both.
I don't have permanent workbench/workspace for working on things, due to space limitations.
When I need to work on something like assembling a building kit, I usually plop my stuff on the kitchen table with a large paper towel underneath. There's adaquete lighting and a stable surface to work on.
"No one realizes how beautiful it is to travel until he comes home and rests his head on his old, familiar pillow." -Lin Yutang
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