I would recommend a set of needle files, fine sandpaper, and emory boards.
You can cut parts off the sprues with a hobby knife - make sure the blade is sharp, but I prefer sprue cutters. Although depending on the sprues you may not always be able to get the cutters into where you need to cut - then you will need a knife.
Get some graphite (or KD's grease-em) for the couplers. I recommend you replace the kits couplers with KD's - #148's with whiskers are easier to install than #5's IMHO.The graphite can be used with the axles in the trucks - make sure the axle needle points are smooth as well as the indents in the truck sideframes.
I use a liquid plastic cement for glueing the plastic parts. I currently use Micro Weld because the fumes are safe, but Testor's Liquid Cement works also - just open a window.
Get an NMRA gauge to test your wheel sets to make sure they are in gauge. I prefer metal, but others have used plastic just fine. Some folks feel that plastic picks up more dirt, so you may have to clean the wheels more often.
Good luck
Paul
Mr. Shay,
Well, it somewhat depends on whether you're initially intending to just get your feet wet with a half dozen cars or so while refining some basic skills or whether you intend to jump into a deeper part of the pool. You'll certainly get a range of responses here, but let's assume it's the former for now.
As Ulrich has noted, basic tools are all that's needed, but you will be cutting parts off of sprues and there is likely to be a bit a flashing to be removed. I don't think you need to fork ober the extra bucks right away for a sprue cutter but I would minimally opt right out of the chute for a #11 blade, the smaller one with a single, straight edge. And I'd make an initial investment in a modest hobby file set which will give you a much better result that a nail file - and will serve you well for a long timeyour nails with your hooby tools!). Same with a hobbyist's small screwdriver set. A pin vise and set of tiny twist drills won't be far down the line.
I just pulled an Accural ikt out of the cupboard behind my office desk. It may be an older one because it it has not only all-plastic, put-together trucks, but they are affixed to the underframe with plastic pins, not screws. Unless you intend to remain at the most basic level for an extended time, you'll want to ditch these. Your LHS - if they major on trains - should be able to recommed an appropriate upgrade. You'll certainly get a few suggestions here!
Here's another thing that may identify the kit on my desk as dated: the couplers are non-operating and come on sprues. Amazingly useless. If that's what you find, chuck 'em right out of the box and install Kadee #5s. Cut the plastic pin off the "ACCURAIL" coupler box lids, drill appropriate holes and mount your Kadees with screws. Or, I think you can get Kadee box covers, too. Do yourself an intial favor and forever avoid gluing a lid on a coupler box. That's misery on wheels (no pun intended).
As for glue, you'll also get lots of suggestions here. But most will recommend an alpha-cyanoacrylate or "AC". I'd strongly recommend getting it in a bottle with as fine a tip as you can. A fine poly or metal pipette applicator is even better, if you can keep it from clogging. Smaller droplets avoid larger messes, a good number of which you'll have difficulty hiding, especially from yourself.
One more thing: very quickly you'll discover that you don't have enough hands. And they'll not be as steady as you thought. Get a modeler's vise to hold your work. Build a simple jig or cradle for car bodies. Sooner or later you'll find them essential.
For now, leave painting, decaling, weathering and other refinements like replacing stirrups and laders in your dreams. Too much, too soon has discouraged too many.
Take your time, even with simple stuff. Patiently experiment with different techniques and refine them as your eyes and fingers will allow. Most of all, have fun and take pride in your work. You won't regret it.
And one final observation. It sounds like you're inclined after the old school which enjoys the extra labor and cost savings that come with kit building. If you are so inclined, smile nicely and artfully dismiss those that roll their eyes and empty their wallets for finely-detailed ready-to-run rolling stock. You may well have already noticed on this forum that this is an old "Ford vs. Chevvy" type discussion.
John
I'm looking at standardizing my couplers right now. Its mostly just bachmann ezmate couplers at the moment but I'm not too happy with them because they don't like to handle turns very well and the "air hose" magnetic decouplers on them aren't very good looking and have caused issues before. I know every coupler has the air hoses but I think I will just file them off next time around.
It´s been a while since I assembled an Accurail kit, but I don´t remember having to use any other tools than those typical "household" type tools and plastic cements. However, I do remember the plastic wheels not to be as free rolling as I wanted them to be, so I exchanged them to metal wheel sets, which I got from Accurail.
The couplers were OK!
I'm making a run to the LHS tomorrow to pick up some stuff for kit building and possilby to buy more kits and wondered, what exactly do I need? I really have never really built a kit. I have an xacto knife with a standard blade and some nail files. I understand I need modeling cement, probably something better than a nail file and new exacto blades. Is there specific cement I should get? Also should I get something other than just the standard xacto knife blade?
Also, would it be worth replacing the wheels in the kits to metal? Or should I just stick with the plastic ones that are included? I also intend on replacing all of the couplers with kadees of some sort. My layout is going to have sharp curves and fairly steep grades so is there a specific type of Kadee I should get? Thanks for any help, while I've been in this hobby for 15 years I would consider myself a recovering armchair model railroader hoarder who wants to actually get up and do something (Like actually use my heaps of Accurail kits I have sitting around).