The only Accurail kits I have are flatcars for piggyback trailers. They are a lot nicer than the old Athearn Blue Box kits. I use an Xacto knife to cut the parts off of the spur. That and a small screwdriver is all I needed. For glue I use Medium Zap a Gap CA (super glue). I squeeze a drop of glue out onto the end of the bottle neck and then touch the part to the drop of glue so I use less than a drop. I used the stock trucks and wheels and they are fine. I used Kadee #5 couplers. This was before #148 came out. A little weathering always helps the car's black colored trucks from disappearing. I also add a little rust, dust and dirt. Also grease on the fifth wheels and some tire makers on the flat bed.
I have all sorts of sprue nippers, but not the tweezer kind, and all of them are too big to nip off P2K grabs without breaking half of them. And since you can;t exactly sand flash off them.. a razor blade and magnifier let me slice them off precisely. After I started using the razor blade, I only ever lost one - even with my hand over the soon to part grab, it still managed to fly off onto the floor somewhere and was gone.
Wayne - the P2K tank ares, of all the P2K kits I've done, are the ones I DIDN'T have problems with the grabs - after the first one which I initially gave up on in frustration. After I returned to it and completed it, I did like a half dozen of them an got the process down pretty well - mostly by not exactly following the instructions. I put some of the tank grabs on before assembling the rank - and drill the holes all the way through so I can glue them fromt he inside, then put the tank together. I do another step or two out of order as well as I found it make the assembly go easier. Been a while since I've done any - I think it's the tank saddles. My way may result in a slight gap you'd only see if you pick the car up and turn it over - but no one but me is going to be doing that. I still have about a half dozen in the unbuilt kit inventory, but besides actually getting a layout under way, my next rolling stock project it to finish my home-built covered hoppers for cement traffic - and that means more Accurail 55 ton USRA hoppers which are the starting point, prototype and model.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinkerDo a whole bunch of those Accurail kits before trying the P2K kit. Unless it's the Timesaver type, there are very delicate individual grabs to cut off the sprues (sprue cutters are far too big - I use a single edge razor blade for this) and glue in place.
The sprue nipper I have so far has allowed me to cut all P2K fine parts off as the have a sharp tip. No razor blade necessary.
Even if you do get the car assembled without breaking any, they are quite delicate and easily damaged in normal handling of the car. --Randy
That is for darn sure. I assembled a couple P2k kit last spring and broke stirrups even while handling to glue the on. They break very easily.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
The Proto stock cars do look better with wire grabs, but the cast-in mounting holes for the kit's plastic ones need to be filled first, as the holes for the plastic grabs are much bigger than needed for wire ones.I use styrene rod from Evergreen to fill the existing holes, then, when the plugs are well-hardened, slice off any excess and drill them to accept Tichy .012" wire grabs. You can also bend your own using .012" phosphor bronze wire, also available from Tichy.
Here's a kit that I found on the "used" table at a LHS. It was in an unmarked plastic bag, with no instructions and no trucks or couplers. According the store's owner, it was a pre-production sample, and I couldn't resist the dollar or two price tag.
Other than the extra time needed for filling and drilling, the wire grabs are much easier with which to work than the supplied plastic ones, and that holds true for all Proto2000 kits, especially the tank cars, and for the Proto1000 Dominion/Fowler boxcars.However, the r-t-r Fowler cars, like their prototypes, have grabirons of a non-standard size, and you'll need to make your own. Each car has 36 grabirons (72 holes-worth - 78 if you also add the corner grabs on the roofwalk)...
...and I have, so far, done a dozen of them...
Don't worry too much about matching paint on the steps and grabirons, either - with a little weathering, any difference will be unnoticeable. Remember, too, that if a railroad received an off-line car with damaged grabirons or sill steps, it was obligated to repair (and repaint) them, so their paint might not necessarily match the original. The owning road would receive a bill for the materials and the work done.
Wayne
The underframe, if cut off from a sprue along the edge of the crossmembers, may have flash on the edges which makes it seem too wide to fit under the body. Look at the edges of both sides - they should lookj the same, if one has spare bumps of plastic - that needs to be carefully filed down smooth. That's anoother commoon reason for the underframe not fitting under the carbody.
Do a whole bunch of those Accurail kits before trying the P2K kit. Unless it's the Timesaver type, there are very delicate individual grabs to cut off the sprues (sprue cutters are far too big - I use a single edge razor blade for this) and glue in place. It may be better to get A-Line or Tichy metal parts to replace these, but then you will need to find matching paint to paint them. Even if you do get the car assembled without breaking any, they are quite delicate and easily damaged in normal handling of the car. Metal ones look equally good (scale size) and are fairly indestructible.
ricktrains4824Foam cradle
Ricky,That is one of my best purchases to date along with a four prong gripper..
http://www.micromark.com/Gripster-Holding-Tool-Set-of-3
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
You don't mention the kit manufacturer, but the sides of some one-piece kit carbodies can sometimes draw together somewhat at their mid-points. The easiest way to get the underframe/floor assembly into place is to start at one end, where the car's end has prevented the width of the opening from decreasing. Hold the floor at an angle so that only one end can be inserted, then gradually decrease the angle of separation as more of the floor forces the car's sides apart, allowing it to fit into place.If you're building a craftsman-type resin car, floor castings sometimes need to be sanded to width or length. For the former, try to remove an equal amount of material from both sides, so that the centre sill (and truck and coupler mounting points) remain centred.
For building Accurail cars, I usually replace some or all of the cast-on grabirons, and usually replace the sill steps with metal ones from A-Line. I also add roofwalk grabs to house cars, and add brake detail and rigging to most cars, too. I don't, however, replace the wheels with metal ones - the plastic ones work fine for me, and are quieter than metal.
This one got a little more attention than most of mine...
Accurail cars are among my favourites because they offer a lot which are suitable for my late-'30s era layout, and can be useable as-is or modified to suit, depending on one's needs and skills.
JEREMY CENTANNI Throwing this out there, but Mr Shay are you in Northwest Indiana by chance?
Throwing this out there, but Mr Shay are you in Northwest Indiana by chance?
Also all the above suggestions were good as well. Best friends for performance are a Kadee coupler height gauge, NMRA standard gauge and a postal scale.
mr shayI also scored myself a proto 2000 Mathers stock car kit at an antique shop (for $1!) and a couple Tichy kits from a Hobbytown USA that was closing down.
The Mather was a score indeed, and you can't beat Tichy cars for the price, even at retail. I never thought of scrounging antique shops before. Thanks for the idea.
As for the 0-8-0, I'd think that unless you're way out there in the hinterlands, there's probably someone relatively close who can both do it and whose quality of work is available for viewing. If your LHS specializes in trains, they'll have a few leads, as will a robust local club.
Pretty much everything you need has been covered. I have assembled numerous Accurail kits, mostly boxcars, and I can throw one together in about 10 minutes. I replace their plastic wheels with metal ones. A while back I purchased a reaming tool from Micro Mark which reams out the axle pocket in the truck. This isn't necessary but it does seem to make them more free rolling. I don't put a piece of equipment on my layout anymore than doesn't have KD couplers, #5s or the whisker equivalent which if I remember is a #148. I'm snooty about my couplers and to me KDs are the only acceptable choice. I would recommend a coupler height gauge, also available from Kadee. As long as you adjust the coupler to proper height, the hoses shouldn't cause you any problems. Make sure the metal weight is perfectly flat. It it is bowed, the floor and underframe will bend to its contour and you will have difficulty getting the couplers to the right height. I found this to be a common problem with the old Athearn BB kits but not so much with Accurail. Still, I check them before assembly. If they are bowed, you can easily flatten them out just by standing on them. Lastly I spend a few minutes to weather my cars using weathering powders. For a little time and cost it makes a big difference in appearance. Accurail has filled the void left when Athearn quit making the shake the box kits. I think theirs is a better product for no other reason than the coupler pockets.
Attuvian The suspense is unbearable. Just what did you get?
The suspense is unbearable. Just what did you get?
A delay until Tuesday evening :/
So far I'm getting some Testors Dullcote, Kadee 148s, a stiff short haired brush, Testors liquid cement, 2 MDC shay promotional train cars (I already have the other boxcar, they're 5 dollars a piece, I can't pass them up).
At the moment I'm sitting on a mound of about 15 Accurail kits I've all picked up at local shows for about $12 a piece or less. I found a whole thing of xacto blades from when my father was building his car models in the 90s. I also scored myself a proto 2000 Mathers stock car kit at an antique shop (for $1!) and a couple Tichy kits from a Hobbytown USA that was closing down.
The most challenging piece I have is an MDC Hon3 "3-1 Moose Jaws Static Locomotive" kit. This is more of a "here's a pile of parts from various kits we've made, you can make an 0-8-0 out of it!" kitbashing kit. In all honesty I think I'm going to pay a professional to build and paint it for me, although this seems to be kind of a difficult task in itself to find someone who does this stuff.
I also got my hands on a whole bunch of pastel chalks so I think I'm going to play around with weathering a couple of my junky old toy quality boxcars I have sitting around from when I was a kid.
mr shaymr shay wrote the following post 23 hours ago: I'm making a run to the LHS tomorrow to pick up some stuff for kit building and possilby to buy more kits and wondered, what exactly do I need?
I'm making a run to the LHS tomorrow to pick up some stuff for kit building and possilby to buy more kits and wondered, what exactly do I need?
Well, Mr. Shay, it's now 23 hours later and your yesterday's "tomorrow" is now today. And unless you'e in Alaska or Hawaii, your LHS has been closed for hours.
I have a number of Accurail cars. All of them use metal wheelsets. I've tried Kadee, ExactRail, Intermountain, and Jaybee - all with success. Of those, I'd recommend ExactRail or Intermountain for best performance. The stock one-piece wheelsets are probably the worst part of any Accurail kit, and deserve to go straight to the trash. They don't roll especially well and tend to wobble.
I also replace the couplers with Kadees. Both the older style (e.g. #5) and newer whisker couplers work great. In operating session service, I found the stock Accumate couplers to deliver unacceptable perfomance, so I don't use them in anything.
Here's an Accurail PS-4750 hopper. I added and/or modified some road-specific details, and added some extra decals for ACI labels. This car uses ExactRail wheelsets and Kadee #148 couplers.
Rob Spangler
Paul thanks for your response. i was about to order a big bag of their wheelsets when I saw the video.
I will not link the youtube as I did not think much of the guy's presentation. I don't remember why but for some reason I had subscribed to his videos.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I have skimmed the above answers and the one thing I didn't see (though it could be there) is about the coupler trip pins. I leave them on for the "hose" look between cars. Also, should you want to go to magnetic uncoupling you need them.
If you have gotten a coupler height guage it has a little shelf for the trip pin to clear. Withh the pin clearing that, you shouldn't have problems with them catching, unless there is a problem with the track. Kadee makes a pair of pliers to bend them. It can be done with other pliers, but no where near as easy.
Yes, I would recommend KD #148's, metal wheels, oh yes, did anyone mention a truck tuner from Micro Mark to clean the journals before adding the new wheelsets?
Good luck,
Richard
I also will use Intermountain (or Rapido) metal wheelsets on my Accurail kits, no problems at all.
I use a very simple set of tools to assemble them.
Hobby screwdriver set.
Sprue cutters.
Xacto knife.
Needle files. (Flat, triangle, and round most used.)
Micro-mark Truck Tuner. (Highly recommend this!)
2-56 drill and tap set. (And of course 2-56 screws.)
Styrene cement. (With needle applicator.)
Foam cradle.
My other supplies for assembly include Kadee couplers, metal wheelsets as mentioned, and a couple of different sizes of lead weights.
This is more than many need, but I have (somewhat) high standards for railcars on my layout. All must track well, and all must have Kadee's and metal wheels.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
BigDaddyBigDaddy wrote the following post 5 hours ago: peahrens I change my wheelsets to metal wheel Intermountains Any problems with that? The reason I ask is I saw a youtube video where the guy claimed that he had derailments because those wheels did not fit the trucks.
My freight cars are not the heavier duty modern ones so they take the 33" (vs 36") Intermontain wheelsets. I don't have any problems with them. Maybe the youtube guy with the problems put on too large wheels that hit something on turns? Or the new axles were too long for the particular trucks he was addressing? Or the trucks were not tightened properly? Lots of people have used the Intermountains (and Protos and Kadees) and liked them. (Some do not prefer the Kadees which I believe have sintered (vs. machined) treads which might accumulate more dirt.
I bought a $22 micrometer (a similar one is often on sale at HF) and measured the axle lengths of the original axle and checked that the replacements were not longer and therefore would not be excessively pressured between the truck sideframes. I then tested the metal wheeled trucks with a downhill / horizontal rollout to ensure they rolled well. Some of the Accurail and/or Atheran old kit originals did not roll very well.
I also tried some Walthers Proto (2000?) wheelsets and they also did ok. I believe in both cases the axle lengths were somewhat shorter than the originals. One can be precise and look at the Reboxx site to see what axle is recommended for specific cars. They have various axle length replacement wheelsets. I did not find that necessary. I guess that a slightly shorter than optimal axle is not a big problem. It may ride below the exact cone center of the trick sideframe but just find its home there and do just fine.
My reasoning for metal wheels was better rolling but also noting that many suggest these stay cleaner than plastic wheels that tend more to accumulate dirt / junk and spread same around the track.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
The Accurail PS-2 covered hopper another kit that won't actually qualify as a shake the box either,but they are a awesome car when built.
Intermountain's 33" and 36" wheelsets work very well in Accurail's trucks -- not sure why someone would be having derailments unless the truck screw is over tight and the truck won't swivel.
The plastic pin found in some Accurail kits can be replaced by a 2-56 screw, either 1/8" or 3/16". I tap the hole, but lots of people don't bother.
If you're building a tool kit, you'll want Phillips in addition to flat screwdrivers.
Also remember that shorter cars (around 40') will negotiate steep grades and tight turns far better than longer cars. They also make your trains appear to be longer since there are more cars in the same length of train. Choose any new kits appropriately.
Hornblower
For me to build a accurail kit I need:
1.Knife with #11 blade.
2.Glue.
3. Screwdriver if needed.
4.Intermountain wheelsets.
5.KD #148 couplers.
I have old Atlas cars with truck pins and had several Accurail cars with truck pins and had zero problems.
peahrensI change my wheelsets to metal wheel Intermountains
Any problems with that? The reason I ask is I saw a youtube video where the guy claimed that he had derailments because those wheels did not fit the trucks.
If you are going to screw the trucks and coupler boxes in you might as well get the Kadee drill and tap 2-56. I started a recent thread on accurail, where I thought they only included 1 set of screws and 1 set of plastic pegs, I was wrong there were 2 sets.
The weight of the 2 boxcar kits I built were right on but one 148 coupler is high. I need to look into shaving down that cylinder.
I've used needle files for years but I am really liking the sanding sticks https://www.amazon.com/Squadron-Products-Value-Sanding-Stick/dp/B000CDR5K8
Not all Accurail kits are created equal when it comes to being "shake the box" assembly. The bi level and tri level autoracks for example, while not difficult to assemble, are more involved and a bit trickier than say a boxcar or gondola. I recall using some plastic clamps to hold certain pieces in place while the styrene cement bonded.
I would say a person equipped with a good hobby knife and styrene cement can assemble your typical Accurail kit. Anything else needed is probably somewhere around the house.
Dave Nelson
Get a Kadee coupler gauge and a Micro-Mark Truck Tuner. The former will help you get your couplers set up correctly, and the latter will let you clean out the truck frames before you put the wheelsets in. I use Intermountain wheelsets, which I buy in bulk to replace all the plastic wheels, both on new kits and on the "legacy" cars I've had forever.
I use the Testor's plastic cement in a clear jar with a brush attached to the top. I have other cements for other things, but for Accurail kits that's the one to go with.
This is not "building" the kit, but rather weathering it. I use blue painters' tape to cover the conical wheel bearing holes and the top bolster bearing hole, and then spray the trucks with Rustoleum red-brown primer. Then I apply black weathering powder, unevenly, and finally I spray the trucks again with clear flat Krylon paint to seal the powder in. I also use the clear flat spray on the car body. This is not necessary, of course, but it makes for a more realistic model.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Proper weight is a good thing for reliable operation. Accurail kits are generally underweight out of the box. A cheap postal scale is all you need - I think mine actually came from Harbor Freight and was under $10. Lots of things you can use to add weight, but for enclosed cars I have just been using pennies. Easy way to plan before finishing the kit - I have a small tray I put on the scale, zero it out, and then put all the kit parts in it - wheels, trucks, couplers, and all. Including the factory weight. Then see how much more it needs and start stacking pennies in with it. Closest even number of pennies, or if it needs a lot, some number divisible by 3 so I can make 3 even stacks instead of 2. You don;t want tall stacks, you want the weight to stay low and over the trucks. I use CA to glue the pennies in short stacks, then CA the stacks to the floor of the car, or the existing weight. Haven't had any come loose even on those cars that get transported to train shows an hour or more away.
This sounds harder to do than it is - it's a simple task and will result in better running rolling stock.
You can get a set of needle files ar Harbor Freight. Yes to the Kadee 148s.
I change my wheelsets to metal wheel Intermountains. In 100 pack they are about 60 cents per axle.
Do learn how to adjust the truck tightness so they are loose enough to swivel freely but with minimal wobble. Tighten one more than the other. I usually find the small cylinder that.the truck swivels on is a bit too tall such that the screw tightens against it first and the truck is too loose. If so just file the cylinder down a bit so the screw tightens against the truck.
Also, decide if you want to get your cars close to recommended weight. I bought a cheap digital postal scale on Amazon. The kits usually build up to an underweight car.
Mr. Shay,
Brain freeze. Paul is correct on the Kadee #148s over the #5s. Simpler as you don't have to mess with the little berylium centering boxes. You can nip off the whiskers to the proper length if they're too long.
John
There is a reason these are called "shake the box" kits. If you shake the box correctly, the car will assemble itself!
.
Seriously, all you need are:
1) The kit
2) Xacto knife with #11 blade
3) Model glue for plastics
4) Emory board or small file
5) Small screwdriver
After a while you will want to add the following to your assembly kit:
1) Pin vise
2) #50 Drill bit
3) 2-56 Tap
4) Good set of files
5) #17 Xacto knife blade
Then the list will go on-and-on from there.
Use Kadee #5 or #148 couplers. I replace all my trucks with Kadee trucks, but there is no reason to do this on your first few kits.
-Kevin
Living the dream.