I'm making a run to the LHS tomorrow to pick up some stuff for kit building and possilby to buy more kits and wondered, what exactly do I need? I really have never really built a kit. I have an xacto knife with a standard blade and some nail files. I understand I need modeling cement, probably something better than a nail file and new exacto blades. Is there specific cement I should get? Also should I get something other than just the standard xacto knife blade?
Also, would it be worth replacing the wheels in the kits to metal? Or should I just stick with the plastic ones that are included? I also intend on replacing all of the couplers with kadees of some sort. My layout is going to have sharp curves and fairly steep grades so is there a specific type of Kadee I should get? Thanks for any help, while I've been in this hobby for 15 years I would consider myself a recovering armchair model railroader hoarder who wants to actually get up and do something (Like actually use my heaps of Accurail kits I have sitting around).
It´s been a while since I assembled an Accurail kit, but I don´t remember having to use any other tools than those typical "household" type tools and plastic cements. However, I do remember the plastic wheels not to be as free rolling as I wanted them to be, so I exchanged them to metal wheel sets, which I got from Accurail.
The couplers were OK!
I'm looking at standardizing my couplers right now. Its mostly just bachmann ezmate couplers at the moment but I'm not too happy with them because they don't like to handle turns very well and the "air hose" magnetic decouplers on them aren't very good looking and have caused issues before. I know every coupler has the air hoses but I think I will just file them off next time around.
Mr. Shay,
Well, it somewhat depends on whether you're initially intending to just get your feet wet with a half dozen cars or so while refining some basic skills or whether you intend to jump into a deeper part of the pool. You'll certainly get a range of responses here, but let's assume it's the former for now.
As Ulrich has noted, basic tools are all that's needed, but you will be cutting parts off of sprues and there is likely to be a bit a flashing to be removed. I don't think you need to fork ober the extra bucks right away for a sprue cutter but I would minimally opt right out of the chute for a #11 blade, the smaller one with a single, straight edge. And I'd make an initial investment in a modest hobby file set which will give you a much better result that a nail file - and will serve you well for a long timeyour nails with your hooby tools!). Same with a hobbyist's small screwdriver set. A pin vise and set of tiny twist drills won't be far down the line.
I just pulled an Accural ikt out of the cupboard behind my office desk. It may be an older one because it it has not only all-plastic, put-together trucks, but they are affixed to the underframe with plastic pins, not screws. Unless you intend to remain at the most basic level for an extended time, you'll want to ditch these. Your LHS - if they major on trains - should be able to recommed an appropriate upgrade. You'll certainly get a few suggestions here!
Here's another thing that may identify the kit on my desk as dated: the couplers are non-operating and come on sprues. Amazingly useless. If that's what you find, chuck 'em right out of the box and install Kadee #5s. Cut the plastic pin off the "ACCURAIL" coupler box lids, drill appropriate holes and mount your Kadees with screws. Or, I think you can get Kadee box covers, too. Do yourself an intial favor and forever avoid gluing a lid on a coupler box. That's misery on wheels (no pun intended).
As for glue, you'll also get lots of suggestions here. But most will recommend an alpha-cyanoacrylate or "AC". I'd strongly recommend getting it in a bottle with as fine a tip as you can. A fine poly or metal pipette applicator is even better, if you can keep it from clogging. Smaller droplets avoid larger messes, a good number of which you'll have difficulty hiding, especially from yourself.
One more thing: very quickly you'll discover that you don't have enough hands. And they'll not be as steady as you thought. Get a modeler's vise to hold your work. Build a simple jig or cradle for car bodies. Sooner or later you'll find them essential.
For now, leave painting, decaling, weathering and other refinements like replacing stirrups and laders in your dreams. Too much, too soon has discouraged too many.
Take your time, even with simple stuff. Patiently experiment with different techniques and refine them as your eyes and fingers will allow. Most of all, have fun and take pride in your work. You won't regret it.
And one final observation. It sounds like you're inclined after the old school which enjoys the extra labor and cost savings that come with kit building. If you are so inclined, smile nicely and artfully dismiss those that roll their eyes and empty their wallets for finely-detailed ready-to-run rolling stock. You may well have already noticed on this forum that this is an old "Ford vs. Chevvy" type discussion.
John
I would recommend a set of needle files, fine sandpaper, and emory boards.
You can cut parts off the sprues with a hobby knife - make sure the blade is sharp, but I prefer sprue cutters. Although depending on the sprues you may not always be able to get the cutters into where you need to cut - then you will need a knife.
Get some graphite (or KD's grease-em) for the couplers. I recommend you replace the kits couplers with KD's - #148's with whiskers are easier to install than #5's IMHO.The graphite can be used with the axles in the trucks - make sure the axle needle points are smooth as well as the indents in the truck sideframes.
I use a liquid plastic cement for glueing the plastic parts. I currently use Micro Weld because the fumes are safe, but Testor's Liquid Cement works also - just open a window.
Get an NMRA gauge to test your wheel sets to make sure they are in gauge. I prefer metal, but others have used plastic just fine. Some folks feel that plastic picks up more dirt, so you may have to clean the wheels more often.
Good luck
Paul
There is a reason these are called "shake the box" kits. If you shake the box correctly, the car will assemble itself!
.
Seriously, all you need are:
1) The kit
2) Xacto knife with #11 blade
3) Model glue for plastics
4) Emory board or small file
5) Small screwdriver
After a while you will want to add the following to your assembly kit:
1) Pin vise
2) #50 Drill bit
3) 2-56 Tap
4) Good set of files
5) #17 Xacto knife blade
Then the list will go on-and-on from there.
Use Kadee #5 or #148 couplers. I replace all my trucks with Kadee trucks, but there is no reason to do this on your first few kits.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Brain freeze. Paul is correct on the Kadee #148s over the #5s. Simpler as you don't have to mess with the little berylium centering boxes. You can nip off the whiskers to the proper length if they're too long.
You can get a set of needle files ar Harbor Freight. Yes to the Kadee 148s.
I change my wheelsets to metal wheel Intermountains. In 100 pack they are about 60 cents per axle.
Do learn how to adjust the truck tightness so they are loose enough to swivel freely but with minimal wobble. Tighten one more than the other. I usually find the small cylinder that.the truck swivels on is a bit too tall such that the screw tightens against it first and the truck is too loose. If so just file the cylinder down a bit so the screw tightens against the truck.
Also, decide if you want to get your cars close to recommended weight. I bought a cheap digital postal scale on Amazon. The kits usually build up to an underweight car.
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Proper weight is a good thing for reliable operation. Accurail kits are generally underweight out of the box. A cheap postal scale is all you need - I think mine actually came from Harbor Freight and was under $10. Lots of things you can use to add weight, but for enclosed cars I have just been using pennies. Easy way to plan before finishing the kit - I have a small tray I put on the scale, zero it out, and then put all the kit parts in it - wheels, trucks, couplers, and all. Including the factory weight. Then see how much more it needs and start stacking pennies in with it. Closest even number of pennies, or if it needs a lot, some number divisible by 3 so I can make 3 even stacks instead of 2. You don;t want tall stacks, you want the weight to stay low and over the trucks. I use CA to glue the pennies in short stacks, then CA the stacks to the floor of the car, or the existing weight. Haven't had any come loose even on those cars that get transported to train shows an hour or more away.
This sounds harder to do than it is - it's a simple task and will result in better running rolling stock.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Get a Kadee coupler gauge and a Micro-Mark Truck Tuner. The former will help you get your couplers set up correctly, and the latter will let you clean out the truck frames before you put the wheelsets in. I use Intermountain wheelsets, which I buy in bulk to replace all the plastic wheels, both on new kits and on the "legacy" cars I've had forever.
I use the Testor's plastic cement in a clear jar with a brush attached to the top. I have other cements for other things, but for Accurail kits that's the one to go with.
This is not "building" the kit, but rather weathering it. I use blue painters' tape to cover the conical wheel bearing holes and the top bolster bearing hole, and then spray the trucks with Rustoleum red-brown primer. Then I apply black weathering powder, unevenly, and finally I spray the trucks again with clear flat Krylon paint to seal the powder in. I also use the clear flat spray on the car body. This is not necessary, of course, but it makes for a more realistic model.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Not all Accurail kits are created equal when it comes to being "shake the box" assembly. The bi level and tri level autoracks for example, while not difficult to assemble, are more involved and a bit trickier than say a boxcar or gondola. I recall using some plastic clamps to hold certain pieces in place while the styrene cement bonded.
I would say a person equipped with a good hobby knife and styrene cement can assemble your typical Accurail kit. Anything else needed is probably somewhere around the house.
Dave Nelson
peahrensI change my wheelsets to metal wheel Intermountains
Any problems with that? The reason I ask is I saw a youtube video where the guy claimed that he had derailments because those wheels did not fit the trucks.
If you are going to screw the trucks and coupler boxes in you might as well get the Kadee drill and tap 2-56. I started a recent thread on accurail, where I thought they only included 1 set of screws and 1 set of plastic pegs, I was wrong there were 2 sets.
The weight of the 2 boxcar kits I built were right on but one 148 coupler is high. I need to look into shaving down that cylinder.
I've used needle files for years but I am really liking the sanding sticks https://www.amazon.com/Squadron-Products-Value-Sanding-Stick/dp/B000CDR5K8
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
For me to build a accurail kit I need:
1.Knife with #11 blade.
2.Glue.
3. Screwdriver if needed.
4.Intermountain wheelsets.
5.KD #148 couplers.
I have old Atlas cars with truck pins and had several Accurail cars with truck pins and had zero problems.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Also remember that shorter cars (around 40') will negotiate steep grades and tight turns far better than longer cars. They also make your trains appear to be longer since there are more cars in the same length of train. Choose any new kits appropriately.
Hornblower
Intermountain's 33" and 36" wheelsets work very well in Accurail's trucks -- not sure why someone would be having derailments unless the truck screw is over tight and the truck won't swivel.
The plastic pin found in some Accurail kits can be replaced by a 2-56 screw, either 1/8" or 3/16". I tap the hole, but lots of people don't bother.
If you're building a tool kit, you'll want Phillips in addition to flat screwdrivers.
The Accurail PS-2 covered hopper another kit that won't actually qualify as a shake the box either,but they are a awesome car when built.
BigDaddyBigDaddy wrote the following post 5 hours ago: peahrens I change my wheelsets to metal wheel Intermountains Any problems with that? The reason I ask is I saw a youtube video where the guy claimed that he had derailments because those wheels did not fit the trucks.
My freight cars are not the heavier duty modern ones so they take the 33" (vs 36") Intermontain wheelsets. I don't have any problems with them. Maybe the youtube guy with the problems put on too large wheels that hit something on turns? Or the new axles were too long for the particular trucks he was addressing? Or the trucks were not tightened properly? Lots of people have used the Intermountains (and Protos and Kadees) and liked them. (Some do not prefer the Kadees which I believe have sintered (vs. machined) treads which might accumulate more dirt.
I bought a $22 micrometer (a similar one is often on sale at HF) and measured the axle lengths of the original axle and checked that the replacements were not longer and therefore would not be excessively pressured between the truck sideframes. I then tested the metal wheeled trucks with a downhill / horizontal rollout to ensure they rolled well. Some of the Accurail and/or Atheran old kit originals did not roll very well.
I also tried some Walthers Proto (2000?) wheelsets and they also did ok. I believe in both cases the axle lengths were somewhat shorter than the originals. One can be precise and look at the Reboxx site to see what axle is recommended for specific cars. They have various axle length replacement wheelsets. I did not find that necessary. I guess that a slightly shorter than optimal axle is not a big problem. It may ride below the exact cone center of the trick sideframe but just find its home there and do just fine.
My reasoning for metal wheels was better rolling but also noting that many suggest these stay cleaner than plastic wheels that tend more to accumulate dirt / junk and spread same around the track.
I also will use Intermountain (or Rapido) metal wheelsets on my Accurail kits, no problems at all.
I use a very simple set of tools to assemble them.
Hobby screwdriver set.
Sprue cutters.
Xacto knife.
Needle files. (Flat, triangle, and round most used.)
Micro-mark Truck Tuner. (Highly recommend this!)
2-56 drill and tap set. (And of course 2-56 screws.)
Styrene cement. (With needle applicator.)
Foam cradle.
My other supplies for assembly include Kadee couplers, metal wheelsets as mentioned, and a couple of different sizes of lead weights.
This is more than many need, but I have (somewhat) high standards for railcars on my layout. All must track well, and all must have Kadee's and metal wheels.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
I have skimmed the above answers and the one thing I didn't see (though it could be there) is about the coupler trip pins. I leave them on for the "hose" look between cars. Also, should you want to go to magnetic uncoupling you need them.
If you have gotten a coupler height guage it has a little shelf for the trip pin to clear. Withh the pin clearing that, you shouldn't have problems with them catching, unless there is a problem with the track. Kadee makes a pair of pliers to bend them. It can be done with other pliers, but no where near as easy.
Yes, I would recommend KD #148's, metal wheels, oh yes, did anyone mention a truck tuner from Micro Mark to clean the journals before adding the new wheelsets?
Good luck,
Richard
Paul thanks for your response. i was about to order a big bag of their wheelsets when I saw the video.
I will not link the youtube as I did not think much of the guy's presentation. I don't remember why but for some reason I had subscribed to his videos.
I have a number of Accurail cars. All of them use metal wheelsets. I've tried Kadee, ExactRail, Intermountain, and Jaybee - all with success. Of those, I'd recommend ExactRail or Intermountain for best performance. The stock one-piece wheelsets are probably the worst part of any Accurail kit, and deserve to go straight to the trash. They don't roll especially well and tend to wobble.
I also replace the couplers with Kadees. Both the older style (e.g. #5) and newer whisker couplers work great. In operating session service, I found the stock Accumate couplers to deliver unacceptable perfomance, so I don't use them in anything.
Here's an Accurail PS-4750 hopper. I added and/or modified some road-specific details, and added some extra decals for ACI labels. This car uses ExactRail wheelsets and Kadee #148 couplers.
Rob Spangler
mr shaymr shay wrote the following post 23 hours ago: I'm making a run to the LHS tomorrow to pick up some stuff for kit building and possilby to buy more kits and wondered, what exactly do I need?
I'm making a run to the LHS tomorrow to pick up some stuff for kit building and possilby to buy more kits and wondered, what exactly do I need?
Well, Mr. Shay, it's now 23 hours later and your yesterday's "tomorrow" is now today. And unless you'e in Alaska or Hawaii, your LHS has been closed for hours.
The suspense is unbearable. Just what did you get?
Attuvian The suspense is unbearable. Just what did you get?
A delay until Tuesday evening :/
So far I'm getting some Testors Dullcote, Kadee 148s, a stiff short haired brush, Testors liquid cement, 2 MDC shay promotional train cars (I already have the other boxcar, they're 5 dollars a piece, I can't pass them up).
At the moment I'm sitting on a mound of about 15 Accurail kits I've all picked up at local shows for about $12 a piece or less. I found a whole thing of xacto blades from when my father was building his car models in the 90s. I also scored myself a proto 2000 Mathers stock car kit at an antique shop (for $1!) and a couple Tichy kits from a Hobbytown USA that was closing down.
The most challenging piece I have is an MDC Hon3 "3-1 Moose Jaws Static Locomotive" kit. This is more of a "here's a pile of parts from various kits we've made, you can make an 0-8-0 out of it!" kitbashing kit. In all honesty I think I'm going to pay a professional to build and paint it for me, although this seems to be kind of a difficult task in itself to find someone who does this stuff.
I also got my hands on a whole bunch of pastel chalks so I think I'm going to play around with weathering a couple of my junky old toy quality boxcars I have sitting around from when I was a kid.
Pretty much everything you need has been covered. I have assembled numerous Accurail kits, mostly boxcars, and I can throw one together in about 10 minutes. I replace their plastic wheels with metal ones. A while back I purchased a reaming tool from Micro Mark which reams out the axle pocket in the truck. This isn't necessary but it does seem to make them more free rolling. I don't put a piece of equipment on my layout anymore than doesn't have KD couplers, #5s or the whisker equivalent which if I remember is a #148. I'm snooty about my couplers and to me KDs are the only acceptable choice. I would recommend a coupler height gauge, also available from Kadee. As long as you adjust the coupler to proper height, the hoses shouldn't cause you any problems. Make sure the metal weight is perfectly flat. It it is bowed, the floor and underframe will bend to its contour and you will have difficulty getting the couplers to the right height. I found this to be a common problem with the old Athearn BB kits but not so much with Accurail. Still, I check them before assembly. If they are bowed, you can easily flatten them out just by standing on them. Lastly I spend a few minutes to weather my cars using weathering powders. For a little time and cost it makes a big difference in appearance. Accurail has filled the void left when Athearn quit making the shake the box kits. I think theirs is a better product for no other reason than the coupler pockets.
mr shayI also scored myself a proto 2000 Mathers stock car kit at an antique shop (for $1!) and a couple Tichy kits from a Hobbytown USA that was closing down.
The Mather was a score indeed, and you can't beat Tichy cars for the price, even at retail. I never thought of scrounging antique shops before. Thanks for the idea.
As for the 0-8-0, I'd think that unless you're way out there in the hinterlands, there's probably someone relatively close who can both do it and whose quality of work is available for viewing. If your LHS specializes in trains, they'll have a few leads, as will a robust local club.
Throwing this out there, but Mr Shay are you in Northwest Indiana by chance?
Also all the above suggestions were good as well. Best friends for performance are a Kadee coupler height gauge, NMRA standard gauge and a postal scale.
JEREMY CENTANNI Throwing this out there, but Mr Shay are you in Northwest Indiana by chance?
You don't mention the kit manufacturer, but the sides of some one-piece kit carbodies can sometimes draw together somewhat at their mid-points. The easiest way to get the underframe/floor assembly into place is to start at one end, where the car's end has prevented the width of the opening from decreasing. Hold the floor at an angle so that only one end can be inserted, then gradually decrease the angle of separation as more of the floor forces the car's sides apart, allowing it to fit into place.If you're building a craftsman-type resin car, floor castings sometimes need to be sanded to width or length. For the former, try to remove an equal amount of material from both sides, so that the centre sill (and truck and coupler mounting points) remain centred.
For building Accurail cars, I usually replace some or all of the cast-on grabirons, and usually replace the sill steps with metal ones from A-Line. I also add roofwalk grabs to house cars, and add brake detail and rigging to most cars, too. I don't, however, replace the wheels with metal ones - the plastic ones work fine for me, and are quieter than metal.
This one got a little more attention than most of mine...
Accurail cars are among my favourites because they offer a lot which are suitable for my late-'30s era layout, and can be useable as-is or modified to suit, depending on one's needs and skills.
Wayne
ricktrains4824Foam cradle
Ricky,That is one of my best purchases to date along with a four prong gripper..
http://www.micromark.com/Gripster-Holding-Tool-Set-of-3
The underframe, if cut off from a sprue along the edge of the crossmembers, may have flash on the edges which makes it seem too wide to fit under the body. Look at the edges of both sides - they should lookj the same, if one has spare bumps of plastic - that needs to be carefully filed down smooth. That's anoother commoon reason for the underframe not fitting under the carbody.
Do a whole bunch of those Accurail kits before trying the P2K kit. Unless it's the Timesaver type, there are very delicate individual grabs to cut off the sprues (sprue cutters are far too big - I use a single edge razor blade for this) and glue in place. It may be better to get A-Line or Tichy metal parts to replace these, but then you will need to find matching paint to paint them. Even if you do get the car assembled without breaking any, they are quite delicate and easily damaged in normal handling of the car. Metal ones look equally good (scale size) and are fairly indestructible.